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Thread: Fatbike

  1. #1
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    Fatbike

    Snow is falling here in Western Canada, so time for a Fatbike build.
    The frame is the generic Asian carbon HT that several vendors have. Carbon speed lists this as model CS010, the vendor I used called it a MS010.
    It is 170mm rear spacing, 100mm threaded BB, size 17".
    1296 grams.
    The fork is a carbon 15 x 150mm. 622 grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9391_1.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    22-23lbs is easily achievable for something with giant 4-5" tires. You can go a lot lighter, but you start to make significant compromises pretty fast IMO.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    22-23lbs is easily achievable for something with giant 4-5" tires. You can go a lot lighter, but you start to make significant compromises pretty fast IMO.
    Fortunately I am not very heavy, so can get away with some weenie parts. Plan on being under 22 lbs. with minimum 4" tires.

  4. #4
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    Nice, looking forward to this build!

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    I will follow your thread for sure. I may find out some ideas that wont cost me an arm to lighter my 33 pound RDS Mayor!

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    You can get it pretty light if your willing to throw money at it.
    I have a Borealis Echo with a Mastodon that's 25.5 lbs.
    And a Farley EX at 28.5 with 29+ wheels.
    Wheels are the big weight saver

  7. #7
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    Wheel parts.
    Yishun Bike 65mm carbon rims, 460 & 475 grams.
    Tune FatKong rear hub 12 x 170mm, 239 grams.
    Novatec front hub 15 x 150mm, 205 grams.
    Sapim Superspokes & DT Swiss Alum nipples. 4.2 grams.
    Tune valves, 3.9 grams.
    One wrap of Gorilla tape is 40 grams. I will be looking for something lighter.
    The plan was to go with Tune hubs front and rear, I then discovered the Novatec front hub that was a reasonable weight. Although 60 grams heavier than the Tune front hub, I could not stomach the $300.00 CDN extra for the Tune front hub.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9363_1.jpg  

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  8. #8
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    I, for one, appreciate the calibration weight on your scale.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    I, for one, appreciate the calibration weight on your scale.
    Thanks Phlegm. Great job on your latest build by the way.

  10. #10
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    As far as wheel tape....Gorilla is over kill( and it gets goopy from sealant).. Get some Stan's or Orange seal..

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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    As far as wheel tape....Gorilla is over kill( and it gets goopy from sealant).. Get some Stan's or Orange seal..
    Thanks Mayor, did not know about the orange Seal tape, just ordered a roll.
    FWI, Stan's does not make Fatbike rim tape, the widest they have is 30mm.

  12. #12
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    No way, one pass of Tyvek Tape.

    Fatbike-16832406_10101056009286118_7269716387457239928_n.jpgFatbike-16832389_10101056016346968_816478383181178031_n.jpg

    6g, can't beat that.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  13. #13
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    Front wheel 797 grams.
    rear wheel 846 grams.
    Total 1644 grams.
    This build with a Tune front hub would be 1584ish grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9404_1.jpg  

    Fatbike-img_9406_1.jpg  

    Fatbike-img_9410_1.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Front wheel 797 grams.
    rear wheel 846 grams.
    Total 1644 grams.
    This build with a Tune front hub would be 1584ish grams.
    Above, you said your nipples and spokes were 4.2g.


    I'm about to go ride my 90mm carbon rims because...its snowing!!!
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Above, you said your nipples and spokes were 4.2g.


    I'm about to go ride my 90mm carbon rims because...its snowing!!!
    Was this a question.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Was this a question.
    No, I'm just letting you know you have the lightest spokes known to man.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    No, I'm just letting you know you have the lightest spokes known to man.
    For sure, 3.7 - 3.8 grams is a decent weight
    But seriously when I also showed a pic of 1 spoke and nipple at 4.2 grams pretty sure 99.9% of viewers got it.

  18. #18
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    Someone said "nipple", tee-hee.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Thanks Mayor, did not know about the orange Seal tape, just ordered a roll.
    FWI, Stan's does not make Fatbike rim tape, the widest they have is 30mm.
    You only have to cover the spoke holes....which are probably lesss the 30mm apart.
    They make a 39mm tape also.

  20. #20
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    Interested in how that Tune hub holds up.
    Have you decided on a build yet?
    Here's what I used on my Echo and Farley EX
    Fizik00 saddle
    KCNC Ti Pro ( I use a Syntace HiFlex on long rough rides/races)
    Wren stem
    Answer 20/20 Enduro bars ( not the lightest...but easy on hands)
    Next SL crank
    Formula R1 brakes and Ashima Airotor or Ai2 rotors

  21. #21
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    You realize we are technically changing the meaning of "fatbike" in this thread.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    You realize we are technically changing the meaning of "fatbike" in this thread.
    You should see peoples faces when they lift up my Echo.....and realize it's a LOT lighter than their skinny tire bike.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by the mayor View Post
    Interested in how that Tune hub holds up.
    Have you decided on a build yet?
    Here's what I used on my Echo and Farley EX
    Fizik00 saddle
    KCNC Ti Pro ( I use a Syntace HiFlex on long rough rides/races)
    Wren stem
    Answer 20/20 Enduro bars ( not the lightest...but easy on hands)
    Next SL crank
    Formula R1 brakes and Ashima Airotor or Ai2 rotors
    Looks like a great build Mayor.
    Mine is going to be a bit of a hodge podge of parts I have from builds that did not happen and some slightly used parts. Should have more pics up soon.
    Ya 30mm tape is not wide enough, the Orange Seal 45mm should be perfect. Also going to look for Some Tyvek tape Jayem is running - probably the lightest set up out there.

  24. #24
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    Schmolke TLO flat bar. 97.1 grams.
    Wren 50mm stem. 76.5 grams.
    Extralite grips with plugs 18.8 grams.
    MCFK expander plug. 11.7 grams.
    Tune top cap/Aluminium bolts. 5.9 grams.
    Cane Creek 110 headset. 78.3 grams.
    Cane Creek 110 interlocking spacers. 13.9 grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_0368_1.jpg  

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    Last edited by xc71; 11-20-2017 at 07:53 PM.

  25. #25
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    Would never run a bar that narrow on a fat-bike. Wide bars help immensely on a fatbike/SS type where you gotta stand and pedal a bunch, on a fatbike, due to the rotational mass of the wheels. Longer lever. You notice this especially when riding with other riders that are not on fatbikes or have wider bars, they can start and accelerate much faster. Running a 780 Crack-Bros Cobalt SL. It kind of freaks me out because it's so thin at the ends, but it's lasted many seasons just fine. One thing that's nice though is to be able to get up and lever the thing with out of the saddle pedaling. I'd like wider bars on my XC race bike, but I can make do there.
    Wider is better here, even though I sometimes have to weave it through trees.

    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  26. #26
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    That Schmolke bar is sweet, super sweet. Haven't tried one yet, but will do so in future.

    MCFK expander should be bullet-proof.

    I have the same pair of Extralite grips, unused thus far. Instructions say to use wood glue to install, which kind of freaked me out. Can you tell us a bit about that install?

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Would never run a bar that narrow on a fat-bike. Wide bars help immensely on a fatbike/SS type where you gotta stand and pedal a bunch, on a fatbike, due to the rotational mass of the wheels. Longer lever. You notice this especially when riding with other riders that are not on fatbikes or have wider bars, they can start and accelerate much faster. Running a 780 Crack-Bros Cobalt SL. It kind of freaks me out because it's so thin at the ends, but it's lasted many seasons just fine. One thing that's nice though is to be able to get up and lever the thing with out of the saddle pedaling. I'd like wider bars on my XC race bike, but I can make do there.
    Wider is better here, even though I sometimes have to weave it through trees.


    How do you know how wide they are?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    That Schmolke bar is sweet, super sweet. Haven't tried one yet, but will do so in future.

    MCFK expander should be bullet-proof.

    I have the same pair of Extralite grips, unused thus far. Instructions say to use wood glue to install, which kind of freaked me out. Can you tell us a bit about that install?
    Yes the MCFK is really nice. I have used several different expanders over the years and this one is the best I have found,so easy to set up and has great grip.
    I have run Extralite grips for approx. 10 years and have had great luck cleaning the bar with alcohol, spray the bar with hair spray as well as the inside of the grip and slide them on, wait 24 hours. That said I have not run the newer 7ish gram model.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    How do you know how wide they are?
    Because I looked them up and the max they make is 680?
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Because I looked them up and the max they make is 680?
    Not sure where you looked but this bar is made up to 740mm, but schmolke will pretty much make you whatever you want.
    https://www.schmolke-carbon.com/prod...-tlo-oversize/

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Not sure where you looked but this bar is made up to 740mm, but schmolke will pretty much make you whatever you want.
    https://www.schmolke-carbon.com/prod...-tlo-oversize/
    My apologies, I must not have clicked on the right one. 740 isn't too bad, still on the shorter side for a fatbike IME, but a lot better than 680.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  32. #32
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    Tune speedneedle, 89.1 grams.
    New Ultimate seatpost with J&L lower carbon cradle, KCNC upper yokes, Ti bolts, 127.6 grams.
    MT Zoom seatpost clamp, 5.7 grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_3022_1.jpg  

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  33. #33
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    Speedneedle on a fat-bike! You made my day.

    This build looks awesome.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tangerineowl View Post
    Speedneedle on a fat-bike! You made my day.

    This build looks awesome.
    Thanks. The Speedneedle is definitely the most difficult saddle I have run at finding the sweet spot. I have run this saddle on a couple of other bikes and the first time I tried it it was brutal - one of the worst saddle I had tried. I had noticed when looking at this saddle mounted on other bikes the nose always looked like it was too high, so I started raising the nose a couple of mm at a time and it was slowly improving. Eventually found the sweet spot and what a huge difference, between the shape ( for me ) and the flex it is a very comfy saddle.

  35. #35
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    I could never get the Speedneedle to work. To get it comfortable for me, the nose was really high....which leads to snagging my junk.
    Glad you can get it to work.

  36. #36
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    Next SL G4 170 cranks with crank boots. This has the RF 165/170 spacing axle. Garbaruk 28T oval NW ring. 470.4 grams.
    RWC bottom bracket 75.4 grams.
    KMC X11SL 112 link chain 234.3 grams.
    E-thirteen TRS 9/44 cassette with lock ring 337.1 grams.
    SMS pedals with Ti axles 206.3 grams.
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  37. #37
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    Schwalbe Jimbo Jims EVO LS, 4.8 front/4.0 rear. 1199.1 & 1016.4 grams.
    XTR 985 brakes with cut hoses. 437.7 grams.
    Quaxar front 160mm rotor. 74.6 grams.
    SIC rear 160mm rotor. 59.9 grams.
    Pro-Ti rotor bolts. 7.6 grams.
    Pro-Ti caliper bolts. 6.1 grams.
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  38. #38
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    Glad you can make use of that SICC rotor somehow.

  39. #39
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    How do the Quaxar rotor perform?

  40. #40
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    Awesome build as always.

    1 and 1.2kg tyres. Ouch!!!

  41. #41
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    Phlegm, I have a couple that did not warp and these are actually a good winter rear rotor, although I am almost out of Kettle Metal pads. I have tried several different pads so I can run these on my trail bike in the summer, but there is nothing I can find that gives them decent power.

    IRaphl, I would say they perform similar to Ai2 rotors.

    Thanks Tig.

  42. #42
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    So I mounted the SMS pedals on my trail bike and went for a ride, 4" of snow on semi packed singletrack as I was concerned about the grip on these pedals. Sure enough they were very slippery with very little grip. The platform size is great ( size 43 ) and they spin very well with 3 bearings. I replaced the 8mm pins with 10mm Ti set screws. That did the trick, excellent grip now.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9435_1.jpg  

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  43. #43
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    XTR 9000 Shifter/Der 117.2/222.1 grams.
    KCNC Alloy cable. 45.6 grams = 2 metres.
    I have used clear number plate back ground ( same as frame skin but thicker ) as a frame protector, but the edges often end up looking ratty over time where dirt sticks to it. I found this carbon frame skin at Canadian Tire. It is easy to work with using a air dryer to heat it up. It is very thin, so not going to give as good of protection as frame skin on bigger impacts but will see how it holds up.
    I needed to find something to plug the 4 rack mount holes. Used M6 nylon bolts and murdered them out with a sharpie. 1.7 grams for the 4 bolts.
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  44. #44
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    Not that many following will be familiar with Canadian Tire, but what do they call it, i.e. SKU, or actual mfg name?

  45. #45
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    I am Loving this build.
    My Bikes Kick Ass!!!

  46. #46
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    Thanks Matkock.
    Phlegm, its is called "Carbon fiber self adhesive look film". It comes in a 6" x 6' roll, $16.00. Made in the usa. bar code sku 31219 00042. I found it in the Automotive section.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Thanks Matkock.
    Phlegm, its is called "Carbon fiber self adhesive look film". It comes in a 6" x 6' roll, $16.00. Made in the usa. bar code sku 31219 00042. I found it in the Automotive section.
    Thanks! I'm curious to know how it comes off in future - I'm thinking more heat for the removal process as well.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Thanks! I'm curious to know how it comes off in future - I'm thinking more heat for the removal process as well.
    Heat gun on low setting and gently peel off . Any additional residue can be removed with acetone .

  49. #49
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    Change of plans on the brakes. I have to build my son a new XC race bike this winter, so he is getting the XTR 985's. XTR 9000 for the Fatbike. Weights are with un-cut hoses.
    Front 192.4 grams.
    Rear 208.4 grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9077_1.jpg  

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  50. #50
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    Almost done, need to cut another 10 -12mm off the steer tube and loose a top spacer or two. Still have to replace the XTR 985 front brake with the XTR 9000. I would like to get lighter Thru axles, may not have any luck finding a lighter rear but Wolftooth and Shift-Up offer 15 x 150mm axles. My stock front axle is a boat anchor at 122 grams.
    Currently 19.81 lbs. Will likely end up around 19.50 or a little better when I am done.
    This bike is a rocket, so fast climbing and in the many really tight single track trails I ride. Unfortunately only got to ride it in approx. 5" of snow but most of that is gone now, as its been so warm here.
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  51. #51
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    Wow, fatbike under 20 lbs, with still some room to drop - amazing build!

  52. #52
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    can you post the details of your wheels? like what rim, spoke and nipples you used.

  53. #53
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    Defenetly a great built and so light! Must be so easy to pedal compared to my RSD Mayor at 33 lbs!!! How were the Jumbo Jims in the snow?

  54. #54
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    Awesome build!

  55. #55
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    For me Jumbo Jims are just OK in the snow. And then only if it is reasonably packed. I don't have trouble with getting them to go but the front end tends to wash out more than my D4s.

    And, very nice build. I was only able to get under 20# with Juggernaut tires and, for me at least, they are less than OK in the snow.
    Latitude 61

  56. #56
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    Thanks guys.
    Jefflinde: All of the wheel details are in post #7 & 13.
    lRaphl: Like sryanak mentioned they are okay in the snow, I would not say great in fresh powder. That said, I have two great single track trail systems close to me, one is 5 minutes away the other 30 minutes and these see a ton of Fatbike traffic in the winter so probably 80% of my winter riding will be on packed trails in which the Jumbo Jims work well, very fast on packed snow.
    sryanak: I have not tried the Juggs, did you find the JJ better ?

  57. #57
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    Sorry. i totally missed the spokes. thank you for pointing it out to me.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    For me Jumbo Jims are just OK in the snow. And then only if it is reasonably packed. I don't have trouble with getting them to go but the front end tends to wash out more than my D4s.

    And, very nice build. I was only able to get under 20# with Juggernaut tires and, for me at least, they are less than OK in the snow.
    And every time I ride the D4s in snow and wintertime, I'm further disappointed. My mainstay is the D5s and they are significantly different IME. Being able to lower the pressure for the cush (and not worry about rim strikes) is hugely worth it...

    I do appreciate the build though, I have a lot of similar features on mine, without going quite as far in that direction, but I do race it quite a bit. I use either the D4s or D5s when I race, depending on conditions.

    Fatbike-01b515234023ab1e4912e3dc933c549be132d4b2cc.jpg
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    And every time I ride the D4s in snow and wintertime, I'm further disappointed. My mainstay is the D5s and they are significantly different IME. Being able to lower the pressure for the cush (and not worry about rim strikes) is hugely worth it...

    I do appreciate the build though, I have a lot of similar features on mine, without going quite as far in that direction, but I do race it quite a bit. I use either the D4s or D5s when I race, depending on conditions.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    You get bonus points for the matching crank boots.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    You get bonus points for the matching crank boots.
    My old bike looked better when I had the Turbines on there, and these 90mm rims (different than above) matched the stem/cranks/pogies better

    Fatbike-010cff920de00a6fae680085afd294de14e15632ca.jpg

    Fatbike-012a50e05b947defe4de631d5adf435fb80f6755fc.jpg

    The only real differences though on the new is large Carbonspeed CS-197 frame, BR9000 brakes, size XL framebag, Next cranks, and changed the drivetrain from 1x10 to 1x11 with X01 derailleur, X1 shifter.

    Two wheelsets, the LB 90s on Hope FatSnos with DT revolution or Sapim lasers with airrotor and XTR 11-40 cassette and the LB 65s with DT revolution or Sapim lasers with DT350 fat hub and hope 10-40 cassette. The lighter wheelset is for racing, commuting, summer stuff, due to the narrower profile that adds more protection. The fatter is for soft conditions and most winter riding.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  61. #61
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    Picked up the new Wolf Tooth Fat bike front axle. $39.95. Very impressed with the quality and fit. Their CS has always been great. Have to thank Brendan at WT for sorting out a shipping snag to me in Canada.
    It fit my Asian carbon 15 x 150mm fork perfect.
    WT = 58.8 grams.
    OEM = 114.3 grams.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Fatbike-img_9514_1.jpg  

    Fatbike-img_9515_1.jpg  

    Fatbike-img_9516_1.jpg  

    Fatbike-img_9518_1.jpg  


  62. #62
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    One of my favourite builds.
    Last edited by phlegm; 03-02-2018 at 08:24 AM.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Picked up the new Wolf Tooth Fat bike front axle. $39.95. Very impressed with the quality and fit. Their CS has always been great. Have to thank Brendan at WT for sorting out a shipping snag to me in Canada.
    It fit my Asian carbon 15 x 150mm fork perfect.
    WT = 58.8 grams.
    OEM = 114.3 grams.
    Interesting - for info - the standard length axle isnt quite long enough to fit a Tideace 150mm fat fork, which requires an axle of at least 205mm long if you want to replace the standard lever lock axle.
    I ended up buying a Pit Bike axle.
    What a perfect waste of time

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