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  1. #1
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    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.

    Hey guys, I would like to get this bike to around 23 lbs for the least amount of money as I am somewhat limited on funds. I have swapped out the Chain, Stem, and Seat-post and gone tubeless.
    Bike weighs 23.83 lbs now with pedals and I am very very happy with the bike, just looking to lighten up up a little more. Changing the Cassette and Pedals to XO 11-36 and XTR Pedals will net me another -.48 lbs which is substantial and get me to 23.35. Any ideas that will not involve swapping my XO stuff to XX? Just looking for another .3 lbs or so. Thanks in advance...


    Cassette Upgrade to PG-1080 0.54 245
    Remove PG-1050 -0.80 -363.5
    Net Reduction: -0.26

    Pedal Upgrade to PD M-980 Pedals 0.67 306
    Remove PD M-785 -0.89 -404
    Net Reduction: -0.22

    2013 Specialized Epic Marathon Carbon
    FRAMEFACT 10m carbon front triangle, 29" geometry, FACT IS construction, carbon seat- stays
    M5 chain-stays, tapered HT, carbon PF30 BB, 142mm dropouts, sealed cartridge bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, 100mm travel
    REAR SHOCK FOX/Specialized remote Mini-Brain w/ AUTOSAG, inertia valve, Brain Fade adjust, 187x47mm
    FORK Custom RockShox SID 29 Brain, inertia valve damper, air spring, tapered alloy steerer, top-mount Brain Fade and rebound adj., QR, 100mm travel
    HEADSET 1-1/8 and 1-1/2" threadless, Campy style upper with 1-1/2" lower, cartridge bearings
    STEM Syntace F109 75mm
    HANDLEBARS S-Works XC Carbon flat bar, uni-directional carbon, 680mm wide, 8-degree backsweep, 31.8mm
    FRONT BRAKE Magura MT6, hydraulic disc, Hi Friction pad, alloy caliper, Storm SL rotor,180mm rotor
    REAR BRAKE Magura MT6, hydraulic disc, Hi Friction pad, alloy caliper, Storm SL rotor, 160mm rotor
    BRAKE LEVERS Magura MT6, carbon master cylinder, alloy lever blade, hollow lever pivot, reach adj.
    FRONT DERAILLEUR SRAM X0, 10-speed, S3 direct mount for DMD, bottom-pull
    REAR DERAILLEUR SRAM X0 Type 2, 10-speed, mid cage
    SHIFT LEVERS SRAM X0, 10-speed, twist
    CASSETTE SRAM PG-1050, 10-speed, 11-36
    CHAIN KMC X10SL, reusable Missing Link
    CRANKSET Custom SRAM carbon S-2200, 10-speed XC double, PF30 spindle, removable spider 175mm
    CHAINRINGS 38/24
    BOTTOM BRACKET SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearing, sealed cartridge
    PEDALS Shimano XT Trail SPD
    RIMS Roval Control Carbon 29, carbon disc, 27mm wide, 32h
    FRONT HUB Roval Control Carbon 29, OS28mm end caps, QR, 32h
    REAR HUB Roval Control Carbon 29 142+, DT Swiss alloy cassette body, 12mm thru-axle, 32h
    SPOKES DT Swiss Super Comp, 2.0/1.65/1.8 stainless
    FRONT TIRES-Works Fast Trak, 2Bliss Ready, 120 TPI, aramid bead, 29x2.0"
    REAR TIRE Specialized Fast Trak Control, 2Bliss Ready, 60 TPI, aramid bead, 29x2.0"
    Tubelss w Stans Sealant
    SADDLE Body Geometry Phenom Expert, hollow TI rails, 143mm
    SEATPOST Easton EC90 Carbon 400mm
    Last edited by trmn8er; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:19 PM.

  2. #2
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    Best bang for the buck is going to a 1 X 10 setup. You take the front der off completely, take the front shifter off completely, and loose the weight of the 2nd chainring.

    You need only purchase an appropriate replacement chainring, typically one with 30 to 34 teeth (or even 28 in some cases). Tradeoff is between granny gears and top end speed, with more teeth adding to the latter.

    You can investigate options from Wolftooth and others, ~$60.

    Should easily drop more than enough weight for your goal.

  3. #3
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    Thanks phlegm. I did make that change on my last bike, and I will consider it. I am also thinking of lighter pedals than the XTR Race I was looking into. Everything else is pretty light already. Appreciate your ideas. At 23 lbs it must look like a pig next to yours. ;-)

    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.-imag0836.jpg

  4. #4
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    I say just do what you have mentioned above to shave off a bit more weight.

    To go any lighter, you might only be causing instability with flexy parts for big bucks. You want the bike to perform, when you are pointed downhill. It's already super light for climbing.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  5. #5
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    Thanks Hawg. That is why I refuse to go XX on the cassette. Heard too many "they don't last" reviews. I may elect to stick with the XO Cassette and XTR Pedals and call it a done project. Really like the XO stuff I already have so far and I know I'll like the XTR pedals. Probably will go to a "Control" casing on my next front tire (adding 60 grams in a 2.0, 100 if I upgrade to a 2.2") as I have not had good experiences with the S-Works variety in the past (at least on my old stumpy). Having said that, I have not had any issues with this S-Works version Fast-Trak on the 29.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Thanks Hawg. That is why I refuse to go XX on the cassette. Heard too many "they don't last" reviews...
    The XX cassette is beautiful to look at, light, expensive, and doesn't last. Like an old girlfriend of mine.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    Best bang for the buck is going to a 1 X 10 setup. You take the front der off completely, take the front shifter off completely, and loose the weight of the 2nd chainring.

    You need only purchase an appropriate replacement chainring, typically one with 30 to 34 teeth (or even 28 in some cases). Tradeoff is between granny gears and top end speed, with more teeth adding to the latter.

    You can investigate options from Wolftooth and others, ~$60.

    Should easily drop more than enough weight for your goal.
    Hey phlegm in your opinion, will the 1 X 10 setup on this bike be a good option overall? I am thinking of either going 34T or 32T front and keeping everything else as you mention above. Same XO cranks, RD, 11-36 on the rear. I would think that having a bike this light may allow me to run a 34T on the front, and not miss having the larger 38T chain-ring as much. As for the other end of things, I do not use the small 24T I have now much. I suspect I could push a 34T up most stuff. Any thoughts on a 32 vs 34T front with this bike and setup? My fitness level is pretty solid at this time due to my substantial weight loss. Lastly, how much weight might I lose by booting the FD, Cable, XO Grip (one side) and chainring? I would obviously change to a new NW chain-ring. Thanks in advance.

  8. #8
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    Cheap options
    ESI foam grips
    1x10

    Pricey options that would get you there without giving up performance.
    S-works cranks - should save about 180grams more if you go with a direct mount 1x ring setup like wolftooth has.
    Roval carbon SL wheels-should save about 210grams

    After that you're probably looking at more exotic parts that will drive up the price and may give up some performance. As far as the gear choice for 1x10 it really depends on your fitness and the terrain you ride on. I went with a 34T but I also did the 42T giant cog on the rear to give me a lower end.

  9. #9
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    Thx for that. I'm going to keep the 11 36 for now so I'm leaning toward a 32t front since here in So Cal there are so many brutal climbs.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Thx for that. I'm going to keep the 11 36 for now so I'm leaning toward a 32t front since here in So Cal there are so many brutal climbs.
    Consider that the jump between 24 teeth and 32 teeth is substantial. Before you go there, I would most definitely test ride a bike with that gearing. It's not going to be easy when it comes to prolonged steep climbs. Probably lots of out of the saddle grinding with the 32.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  11. #11
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    Yea I do not use the 24 hardly at all. Figure the 32 will be way easier than the 38 I have now. Besides I can always get a 11 42 cassette if I need a lower gear right?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Hey phlegm in your opinion, will the 1 X 10 setup on this bike be a good option overall? I am thinking of either going 34T or 32T front and keeping everything else as you mention above. Same XO cranks, RD, 11-36 on the rear. I would think that having a bike this light may allow me to run a 34T on the front, and not miss having the larger 38T chain-ring as much. As for the other end of things, I do not use the small 24T I have now much. I suspect I could push a 34T up most stuff. Any thoughts on a 32 vs 34T front with this bike and setup? My fitness level is pretty solid at this time due to my substantial weight loss. Lastly, how much weight might I lose by booting the FD, Cable, XO Grip (one side) and chainring? I would obviously change to a new NW chain-ring. Thanks in advance.
    34T can be a bit tough, but certainly depends on your fitness level and riding area. If in doubt, 32T is a good compromise.

    Also, how often are you in your largest ring, spinning out? That simply didn't happen to me in the bush, so I'd rather lose potential top end speed instead of ratios on the granny side.

    Can't say off hand how much you'd save, but going to 1X has got to be among the best bang for your buck changes.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    Yea I do not use the 24 hardly at all. Figure the 32 will be way easier than the 38 I have now. Besides I can always get a 11 42 cassette if I need a lower gear right?
    Yes, if it comes in 10 speed. That is what you bike is, 10 speed, yes?
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Yes, if it comes in 10 speed. That is what you bike is, 10 speed, yes?
    Yes Mike it's a 10. I decided on a 32T front as phlegm and others have mentioned. I will be wrenching on the bike today once I pick up the new chain-ring...

  15. #15
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    Cool, let us know how it goes.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hawg View Post
    Cool, let us know how it goes.
    You got it. Pictures later today too. BTW, let's ride once it cools off. Perhaps Tapia?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by trmn8er View Post
    You got it. Pictures later today too. BTW, let's ride once it cools off. Perhaps Tapia?
    Sounds good.
    ...and proud member of the anti-sock puppet desolation

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by phlegm View Post
    34T can be a bit tough, but certainly depends on your fitness level and riding area. If in doubt, 32T is a good compromise.

    Also, how often are you in your largest ring, spinning out? That simply didn't happen to me in the bush, so I'd rather lose potential top end speed instead of ratios on the granny side.

    Can't say off hand how much you'd save, but going to 1X has got to be among the best bang for your buck changes.
    Thx for that. I would tell you I am NEVER spinning out my 38 front 11 rear in the dirt, so yea I'm with you. I too would rather keep some climbing gear. Just picked up the RaceFace NW 32T. Since I have XO grip shifters, it is hard to find a L side grip that matches. My local shop is hooking me up with a new XX1 grip which matches my XO grip shift on the R side perfectly!

  19. #19
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    So I finished off the conversion. Weight loss was pretty substantial not that it means too much with me on the bike. I went from 23.75 lbs to 23.05 lbs. Only other mods on the radar are XO Cassette and XTR Pedal, which will put the bike at 22.55 lbs. and that will be a wrap for me (and only after I wear out the ones I have). As mentioned, I could get it lighter with the SL wheels and all XX but weight loss would be small as I already have Carbon wheels, and I'm a big guy at 6' 2.5" and 205 lbs. The cockpit is cleaner, the BB area super clean, and after a short ride, it seems I still have really low gearing! As for the top end, it is way more than enough. Glad I went with the 32 and not smaller. Total cost: $45 for a new chain-ring.

    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.-imag0112-small.jpg

    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.-imag0113-small.jpg

    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.-imag0115-small.jpg

    Epic Diet - looking for a few good ideas.-imag0111-small.jpg

  20. #20
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    ^Looking good!
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  21. #21
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    Thanks...

  22. #22
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    Swap out those grips for some ESIs and loose 40-50g for $15.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  23. #23
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    Since I have the XO twist shifter, I do not have the option of the foam grips. Besides I really like lock on grips.

  24. #24
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    If you want to get technical, I see quite a bit of extra brake hose and shifter cable length. That's got to be worth some mentionable grams w/o sacrificing anything.
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  25. #25
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    Yea I need to tighten that up a bit.

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