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  1. #1
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well DT Swiss xrc 300+ Rochet Ron+ Stan's Notubes - Please advice

    Hi All,
    For any of you who might have this combination...I can really use your help.
    Iím trying to convert my non-tubeless tire & carbon rims to tubeless.

    As I was recommended Iíve bought the Standard 26Ē or 24Ē (21.5-24.5 mm) Stan's NoTubes Kit.
    The instructions/videos recommends to leave the original rim tape ( Ritchey Snap on Rim Tape - pic 002) I did so and installed the rim strip over it. By the way it comes with a 12 mm yellow tape - it looks very narrow
    For the most, the rim strip seats down under the rims bid-lock and leaves a nice space for the bid lock to grasp under the rim's bid lock (pic-004), but at the area of the valve stem the rim strip is flushed with the rim's bid-lock not allowing the bid to reach between the rim and the rim strip ( pic 003, 005),
    I've sent Stan's support an e-mail / Message in site but did not get any answer...
    Anyone tried this combination? Any recommendations?

    Thank you for your help,
    Adi.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DT Swiss xrc 300+ Rochet Ron+ Stan's Notubes - Please advice-001.jpg  

    DT Swiss xrc 300+ Rochet Ron+ Stan's Notubes - Please advice-003.jpg  

    DT Swiss xrc 300+ Rochet Ron+ Stan's Notubes - Please advice-004.jpg  

    DT Swiss xrc 300+ Rochet Ron+ Stan's Notubes - Please advice-005.jpg  

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  2. #2
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    remove the ritchey rim tape - use the yellow tape to seal up the rim.

  3. #3
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    From the looks of things the Ritchey strips are too thick. I'd remove the Ritcheys and use the yellow tape, or 2 layers of electrical tape (my preference because it's easier to work with and won't tear). You will probably still have some issues at the valve, but not as bad. To get round this push the valve up until the strip curls around itself a bit and then let it lay back into the rim. This should expose the rim hooks better.
    Scott @ GO-RIDE.com
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  4. #4
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    Stans will tell you to enlarge the hole in order to get the rim strip to sit flat, this is in their instructional video on their website http://www.notubes.com/movieinstall.php. I had to do the same in order to convert an American Classic wheelset. I think you might be better off using the DT Swiss tubeless system, this does not require enlarging the hole & in case of a warranty claim this would be a safer bet.

  5. #5
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    i've used latex casting mold from an art store to help stic the bead to the rim.. they cover this stuff if u search tubeless
    08 SS c'dale f4
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    ..and they place nice together!

  6. #6
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    Thanks Scott @ GO-RIDE.com,
    I think I’ll try to use only the yellow tape (or 3M similar product- Scotch Filament Tape 898) with Olympic tubeless valve… and see how it goes
    Adi.
    Last edited by adib72; 05-11-2010 at 12:42 PM.

  7. #7
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    There doesn't need to be a gap. In fact my experience has been that you don't want one. On my spinergy rims using that rim strip there is no gap anywhere between the rimstrip and the lip of the rim. Also, if you watch the video of how you install them on the notubes website it clearly shows no gap. If it airs up and seals as is I would leave it alone, in fact I would be worried about having any gap. Watch this video at the 3:00 mark and you'll see what I mean.

    http://www.notubes.com/movieinstall.php

  8. #8
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    As mentioned, you need to drill the inner valve hole to allow the valve to sit flush. It tells you on the notubes site.
    http://www.notubes.com/support_detailed.php
    BTW, what's a 'bid' you keep referring to? Am I missing something..

  9. #9
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    I think it's "bead" as in the lip of the rim

  10. #10
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    drilling a carbon rim. sounds exciting!

  11. #11
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    why use the Stans kit instead of the DT Swiss XR kit that is specifically for DT 21mm rims?

    seems to me like you are just making an easy job really hard
    Last edited by culturesponge; 05-11-2010 at 01:49 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by russya
    I think it's "bead" as in the lip of the rim
    Its the lip of the Tire
    Last edited by adib72; 05-11-2010 at 02:19 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by russya
    There doesn't need to be a gap. In fact my experience has been that you don't want one. On my spinergy rims using that rim strip there is no gap anywhere between the rimstrip and the lip of the rim. Also, if you watch the video of how you install them on the notubes website it clearly shows no gap. If it airs up and seals as is I would leave it alone, in fact I would be worried about having any gap. Watch this video at the 3:00 mark and you'll see what I mean.

    http://www.notubes.com/movieinstall.php
    Hi russya,
    You are right it does look like there is no gap...

  14. #14
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    Tubelesskit = No Dice

    If he has any luck using the Stan's kit then it will be better than the DT kit. I've got a pair of XCR 1250 wheels which use the XRC 300 rims. The wheels came with the DT Swiss tubelesskit already installed and I attempted to mount a pair of Continental (non-UST) tires. There is no way it was going to happen. I removed the valve stem core, soaped the tire beads, and aired up using a compressor with an outlet pressure of 100 psi. After repeated attempts I could not get the tires even close to airing up. The tires fit so loose on the rims that air was escaping 10X faster than it was going in. I opted to just use UST tires instead which I was able to air up just fine with some Stan's sealant. Unfortunately the tires also added 0.8 lbs over the non-UST tires (same models & sizes).

    If you are able to get the Stan's kit to work please post your expierence. I'd love to find a solution that allows me to use non-UST tires with these wheels.

  15. #15
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    I would recommend a different tire, for some reason I find Continental tires a pain to try to set-up tubeless. They seem to lose air pressure in less time then other brands I've tried. The best tire I have ever set-up tubeless are the Specialized Renegades 2.1 2bliss ready. They only weigh 450g and are very comparable to Continental's Race King tire in performance.

  16. #16
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    As far as the actual DT tublesskit works, I would say so-so. The valves actually do not appear to seal against the rim well and I still get air escaping from them every time I attach/remove the air pump hose. It likely has something to do with the rim profile because I've also tried using Mavic valves and gotten the same result. I would have thought that the sealant would just seal them up and it would be over but that has not been the case. Plus I get air escaping from the nipple to rim holes. I presume this means the rim tape is not sealing fully. After installing tires multiple times and adding sealant multiple times, they are not losing air any longer though.

  17. #17
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    2nd Question

    Thank you for the advice. The problem that I encountered with the non-UST Conti's is that they did not fit tightly on the rim, and the sidewalls were so supple that they just fell into the center channel of the rim where the fit was even looser. With the UST version, the sidewalls were stiff as cardboard, and after installing them on the rim they automatically pushed outward near the bead so that inflation was possible. On a scale of 0-10, I would rate the liklihood of inflating the non-UST Conti's as a 0. There was absolutely no way they were ever going to get inflated.

    In light of what seemed to be the cause of the lack of inflat-ability, how likely do you think the Specialized's would air up? My main concern is that I could get them initially inflated. If I can get air in them, then I'm sure I can fix any minor sealing problems via sealant. A 450g hardpack tire would knock 9/10 of a pound off of my 21.5 lb FS bike. I would be more than mildly interested in doing that before my racing season starts in 4 weeks.

  18. #18
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    with the DT XR kit try using a small amount of silicone sealant under the valve collar to help it seal and also not rotate when connecting valve stems

    also before you install the valve try to make sure the ust valve core is tight - had them come loose on almost every ust tire and let all the air out - urgh

    non tubeless tires used as tubeless really benefit from being mounted up at max reccomended pressure for a few days beforehand on another wheelset with innertubes, helps the tires not fold in on themselves + makes locking the beads far easier

    if the tire doesn't inflate with 2 scoops of sealant throw in another scoop or 2 and shake the wheel while pumping (a two person job!) had easiest time with dr. bronners liquid soap but dishwashing liquid works well too - more suds the better

    persistance counts - its not that hard if i can do it

    good luck
    Last edited by culturesponge; 05-17-2010 at 05:25 PM.

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