Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 26
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    11

    Dieting a 2014 Trek Fuel 8 29?

    Sorry, I tried different searches. I'd just like a sanity check here.

    I have the 2014 alu frame ex 8 17.5 "actual" size on 29's. It came with tubed duster wheels and weighs just under 30lbs. I'm working on the following priority list:

    carbon wheels and tubeless tires
    seat and seatpost
    bars and stem
    2x xtr crankset

    Let's assume for the sake of discussion that I can't stand to lose much body weight.

    Given that this bike has a lot of fasteners and a "budget" fork, I see that things like the RS1 and ti bolts could be upwards of a couple more pounds, but get pretty silly on the cost factor. I've looked around at carbon frames and they're just not available at anything approaching realistic versus just saving up and getting a carbon version next year.

    What would you guys suggest? I've seriously considered building up one of those rigid chinese carbon frames, but I just like how this bike rides too much.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    What's your budget? and how much weight are you wanting to lose?

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    11
    Budget is flexible. I'm just not interested in throwing cubic dollars at diminishing returns, if that makes any sense. (hence not really interested in carbon fork and ti bolts currently unless they can show a real savings)

    I should mention that I also seem to have a real fondness for hugging trees and kissing dirt, so anything super racy and fragile need not apply. That's why I went with the alu frame.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    There's probably a pound in your wheels and tires without spending the kids inheritance. Seat/post are at ~500gms combined, it's gonna get spendy to lose a bit there unless you go to Ebay carbon stuff or used. Stem appears to be <130gr, also going to be costly for minimal loss. Bars are possible if you go XC stuff, probably 100gm loss there. There's weight to be lost in the cranks, cost may be high but maybe .5+ pounds to be lost there.

    Any possibility to running a 1x set up? There's close to a pound there for almost nothing.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    Another thought, depending on how much you want to spend. That cassette is fairly heavy as well as the brakes. There are lighter alternatives to both without sacrificing performance/durability, cost would be high though.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phlegm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,090
    The ALU frame will limit you, so be aware of that.

    You are targeting wheels and tires, which are good bets.

    You should not be doing a 2X XTR - 1X is among the best bangs for buck to save weight.

    Buy some LizardSkins DSP grips, and an eBay carbon saddle as cheapest ways to lose weight.

    As indicated, post, bar, and stem are targets, but will cost you.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    11
    Thanks, TBarn! I'm honestly only looking at a 2x setup because I'm still working on getting stronger. A 1x may too optimistic for me this year - unless the 1x11 stuff is pretty close to covering most of the range? I need to read up on those. (I almost never go into the big ring for my local trails and the little ring only at the end of the ride when I'm cooked.)

    Brakes - I've already bought XT upgrades, just installing them this week.

    Cassette - I hadn't even thought about it, but that makes sense. From other threads, I see that a lighter and shorter chain would be possible as well. Good stuff!

    edit: Thanks Phlegm. I have gone and tried to see about switching to the carbon version of this frame, but the options I've seen are not realistic. (lbs showed one left in the country for $3400 - no thanks!) 1x - I'll really have to look into that one - it's not like I couldn't change it back if I hated it. I'm almost always in the middle ring now as it is.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    Is it a triple ring crank?

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    11
    Yes. 3x10, slx front, xt rear. The front has a 2x mode switch I was going to use and replace the big ring with a bash guard.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phlegm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,090
    There are a few things that don't mix with weight weenieism:

    1. bash guards
    2. dropper posts
    3. paniers

    I'm not saying you may not need these things, but they are fundamentally incompatible with losing weight from your bike.
    Last edited by phlegm; 3 Weeks Ago at 06:05 AM.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    Provided it's a 104BCD chainring this will work(just did this to my Carbine 275).

    Here are my weights, but they may differ a bit from yours.
    All three stock chainrings/outer bolts - minus 229g
    Raceface 30t chainring/bolts - add 49g
    HG50 cassette - minus 382g
    Sram XG1080 + Oneup 40t cog - add 292g
    X7 front shifter/cable - minus 125g
    X7 front derailleur - minus 138g
    Total loss - 533g or 1.17lbs.

    Here's what changed in my gearing. I had a low gear of 22 - 36, or .68:1. I now have a low gear of .75:1. This is the equivalent in the old set up of running the 22 front ring and the second or third gear on the cassette. So I lost pretty much my lowest gear and that was about it.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RS VR6's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,081
    Wheels and going 1x will probably drop the most weight at the get go. Going from tubes to tubeless will drop about 1/2 pound. Maybe a carbon post, bar, and cassette will be next. Stuff like grips and bolt tuning will give the least.

    I dropped about 1 full pound when going 1x.
    Cervelo S2
    Specialized Carve Pro
    Pivot Mach 5

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Acko's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    136
    Quote Originally Posted by Blorton View Post
    What would you guys suggest? just saving up and getting a carbon version next year.
    You answered your own question in your opening post...
    You've said you don't want to:
    1) Spend Much
    2) Go 1x

    Also that you crash a lot so if you actually go down the route to lightweight parts, you do lose absolute crash strength.... (in fact if you really crash badly, even cheap/heavy stuff will break).

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: crohnsy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    47
    As a matter of being light weight Treks carbon frames are more durable than their alloy counterpart. I only mention this because you stated you bought alloy for durability..

    I had a fuel ex 8 29 this season. Bought last fall. My easy lightweight fixes for it were tubeless the stock wheels/tires, go to 1x get a 30t narrow wide and you will work pretty well for a low gear.
    Those 2 changes saved almost 2 lbs. I then went carbon bar, and a ti railed saddle since those can move to a new bike easily.
    I kept the bike pretty stock since I realized early spending too much just means that I'm getting an ex8 for the price of the 9.... Just do the easy/inexpensive upgrades and save for the next bike which will be carbon and all parts will be upgraded!

    Long story short my new carbon fuel ex 29 arrives next week

  15. #15
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    10,026
    Quote Originally Posted by RS VR6 View Post
    Wheels and going 1x will probably drop the most weight at the get go. Going from tubes to tubeless will drop about 1/2 pound. Maybe a carbon post, bar, and cassette will be next. Stuff like grips and bolt tuning will give the least.

    I dropped about 1 full pound when going 1x.
    depends. i switched from lock ons to dsp's and dropped 100 grams for $30.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Posts
    11
    Thanks all for the feedback! I decided to wait and get a proper starting point before proceeding. I ordered a Feedback hanging scale and it came in today. As delivered, and with a little dirt on the bike, it's exactly 30 lbs. For giggles I weighed the seat/post combo and they came in at 550g. (damn!) The front wheel assembly was 4.5 lbs(tubed duster with 180mm slx rotor). I've got the tubeless parts in hand and will do that for now while I wait for other parts to come in. Are the Icetech rotors any lighter?

    Tbarn - I'm really liking your 1x idea. Just so I'm clear - the raceface chainring bolts "flush" with the crank spider? On the cassette, does the oneup part attach to the sram as is?

    I'm sifting through the other threads but if anyone knows the sweet spot on a 31.6mm seatpost and a chinese cf 135-140 width seat that won't fall apart in two months, I'd sure appreciate the pointer.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    68
    I picked up a Woodman Carbo EL post 30.9x350 for about $126.00. Out of the box it weighed 136g. Tuned it is now 112g.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    438
    You can bolt up the chainring as is or you can use these to make it more finished. The Oneup cog is fit by removing one the other cogs in the cluster, I think I removed the 17t on my XG1080 cassette.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phlegm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,090
    Quote Originally Posted by roadscuzz View Post
    I picked up a Woodman Carbo EL post 30.9x350 for about $126.00. Out of the box it weighed 136g. Tuned it is now 112g.
    I'd love to see a pic of the final, tuned post.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    68

    Woodman post

    Woodman Carbo EL post tuned from 350mm to 270mm. I sanded all the gloss finish and graphics off above the minimum insertion point.Dieting a 2014 Trek Fuel 8 29?-woodman-tuned.jpg

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phlegm's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    1,090
    Thx man - very nice. I assume you drilled some holes in the bracket too?

    Also, how much do the bananas weigh?

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    68
    That's the way the cradle came from Woodman. No holes drilled from me. The cradle weighed 10g on the scale. I could save another gram by going with an after market cradle like Smud carbon. But at 29 euros.....
    And like a true WW I always weigh my bananas without the peels.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Posts
    1
    Just did this same bike.
    carbon bars
    carbon post
    Fizik seat
    Maxxis Icons
    DT Swiss XM 401 wheels,Hope Evo Pro 2 hubs
    KCNC rotors
    XT cassette
    1x - Race Face 32t nw
    Cost - apprx. $1400, lost 4 lbs.
    Money well spent imo, made it a totally different ride!

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: TiGeo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    4,021
    Wheels/tires/tubeless. Carbon crank. Bar/stem/seatpost/seat. Fork. Cassette. 1x10.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  25. #25
    6x7=Dont Panic!
    Reputation: TheRedMantra's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,011
    It's going to cost less to buy a bike at a higher pricepoint that already comes with the higher end parts. The ex alloy is available in project one. For a fuel you'd really benefit from a dropper post. Have you considered a superfly? Much better bike to weight weenie out in my opinion.

    As for the fork, a Sid is going to be lighter than an rs1 and less costly. A lighter cassette will make a difference. The ice tech rotors offer better performance if used to their potential. I'd say slap some better wheels, lighter cassette and a dropper on it, become a better rider, and upgrade to a carbon fs down the road.

    A lighter bike does make a difference for sure, but it's more the rider than the bike. You're going to dump a lot of money into that rig when you could benefit more from practicing your riding techniques and upgrading down the road.
    Herro prease

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-31-2014, 10:55 AM
  2. 2014 Specialzed Camber Comp vs 2014 Trek Fuel Ex 7
    By Primalspy in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 66
    Last Post: 07-21-2014, 06:09 AM
  3. New 2014 Trek X-Cal 9 or Used 2012 Trek Fuel EX 7?
    By MuffinMaster in forum Beginner's Corner
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 04-22-2014, 05:21 PM
  4. Replies: 17
    Last Post: 02-13-2014, 04:42 PM
  5. 2014 Trek Fuel EX 5 vs 2014 Kona Precept DL
    By Cheesecakeslash in forum 29er Bikes
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 12-17-2013, 07:42 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •