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  1. #1
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    Best light weight rotor? Alligator (Wind-Cutter, Starlite, Cirrus) or Ashima

    First let me start off by saying that I love my Avid Elixir's but I have been bitten by the weight weenie bug again and it seems that I can save 50g or more by changing out the rotors. So my question is what is the best light weight rotor? Alligator (Wind-Cutter, Starlite, Cirrus) or Ashima or another? Which one has the best performance and doesn't chew up pads. And is not crazy expensive... example: Scrub.

    Thanks in advance!

  2. #2
    Masher
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    Sorry, Scrub is the answer. Start saving.

  3. #3
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    With elixirs, they give you enough power to run smaller/less powerful rotors for XC no problem. If you aren't already running 160F and 140R then do that first. You can use Hope floating rotors which are light and easy to get, and the alligator seem better than the cirrus by all accounts. Both of these options will save 15g per rotor approx. For full WW effort dropping about 80g then the scrubs are the way to go.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by MisterC
    Sorry, Scrub is the answer. Start saving.
    I guess my question should of been best reasonably priced light weight rotor? lol

    I get it scrub makes great light weight rotors, but I don't want to drop $300 on them. $300 can go further towards other lighter bike parts than just rotors. So I guess I am a WW on a budget and hence the question...

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexRandall
    the alligator seem better than the cirrus by all accounts. Both of these options will save 15g per rotor approx.
    The Cirrus rotor is made by alligator... I am just wondering which one has the best performance and is not crazy expensive. And yes I am looking into getting a 140R, I think that I already have an adapter.

  6. #6
    Lover, not a fighter...
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    Let me suggest another option

    The Formula R1 rotor. You can get the 160mm pictured here for only about $40 from Pricepoint:



    Pic was originally posted by Eliflap in the R1 thread.

  7. #7
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    I run Ashima AiRotor's on my Juicy Ultimates. No problems, lightweight, and look the business.
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  8. #8
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    Not sure at all, but is that ashima rotor mounted backward? Every other disc rotor I've seen has the "spokes" curving into the direction of rotation. The spokes on that ashima do have a bit of an s curve on them, so who knows.

    BTW I have used a alligator windcutter, and I think it performs better then old stock avid.

  9. #9
    "They Call Me Bone'z"
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    i think the formula looks better
    RAH!

  10. #10
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    GiantMartin & Flystagg how are the brake pads holding up? Standard wear or increased wear and tear on the pads?

  11. #11
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    Anyone have any reviews on the starlite?

  12. #12
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    I didn't notice any increased wear, I was using sintered pads though.

  13. #13
    LuizSalles
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    i bought the cirrus and it´s not so good, i return to the original marta sl rotors....
    LuizSalles
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  14. #14
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    thanks Flystagg & LuizSalles that's the review I have been looking for... still curious about the starlite too. Maybe wind-cutters are the way to go.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flystagg
    [FONT=Verdana]Not sure at all, but is that ashima rotor mounted backward? Every other disc rotor I've seen has the "spokes" curving into the direction of rotation. The spokes on that ashima do have a bit of an s curve on them, so who knows.
    I think it is. Supposedly what happened is the logos were printed on the wrong side. I have flipped my Ashima over. Couple of mates have warped their rotors and they had them mounted same as picture above.

    For original OP I mostly use Hope floating rotors. If you can get your hands on some (CRC occasionally have stock) get the "lightweight" Hope Mono Mini Pro rotors. They are a bit thinner than Hopes standard floating rotors and hence a bit lighter too. I've run them for almost 4,000 kms on my hardtail and they are still going strong.

  16. #16
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    My Ashimas have been great. No problems whatsoever. My Alligators need frequent 'truing'.
    Ashimas all the way.

  17. #17
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    I use 6" Windcutters on my XC and 8" on my DH. They perform just like stock rotors.
    I HIGHLY recommend against using 140mm on the rear if you live in mountains. They get really hot on short descents and are useless on long descents.
    Keep the Country country.

  18. #18
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    Re: Scrubs - I have not been able to keep them from howling on long descents, whereas I have no problem with stailess steel rotors. I'm giving up on them, 50 grams is not enough to justify howling brakes. I am going to Windcutters.

  19. #19
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    Padlife has been fine so far, I am still running the pads that I got at the beginning of this season.

    As far as the rotor being on backwards I thought the same thing but I just followed the little arrows on the rotor and they have been fine. But I think I might do some more investigation into this.
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  20. #20
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    Just to get back to the reverse rotor question, I quickly scrolled thru ppl's bike pic's on this forum and they are all mounted this way, but I have not yet received an answer from ashima.
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  21. #21
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    We distribute Alligator and Scrub and so far the Wind Cutter is the clear winner in terms of price, weight and braking performance. The Scrubs are light and we had good success with them...but the price is probably way out there for most. The Alligator Starlite are pretty good IMO....slightly lighter than the Wind Cutters and look good. The Alligator Aries (Cirrus) is the lightest from them but the pad contact area is the smaller of all the models.

  22. #22
    LuizSalles
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmartpr
    We distribute Alligator and Scrub and so far the Wind Cutter is the clear winner in terms of price, weight and braking performance. The Scrubs are light and we had good success with them...but the price is probably way out there for most. The Alligator Starlite are pretty good IMO....slightly lighter than the Wind Cutters and look good. The Alligator Aries (Cirrus) is the lightest from them but the pad contact area is the smaller of all the models.
    Great... and about the pads ? the sintered is the way to go ? something like EBC gold ? do you have another brand sugestion ?
    LuizSalles
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  23. #23
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    We sell a lot of Alligator Semi-Metallic as an affordable replacement with good performance...those that want a premium pad go for the Swiss Stop which we also distribute. Send me an e-mail or PM if you need more info on the pads and prices.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by radiation vibe
    Anyone have any reviews on the starlite?
    I have 160mm starlites with Elixir R's and they are definitely not as powerful as the stock Avid rotors. Same goes for windcutters too. They are woefully lacking in power for DH or FR. Might be okay for trail or XC but I'm not a fan. The weight savings isn't worth the performance degradation.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scimitar
    Same goes for windcutters too. They are woefully lacking in power for DH or FR. The weight savings isn't worth the performance degradation.
    I have to disagree. I use 8" XTs on my DH bike with XT rotors on my practice wheels and Windcutters on my race wheels. I have the stock pads in front and Jagwire sintered pads in the rear. I can't tell any difference in brake power or feel swapping between wheels.

    My XC bike uses 6" Windcutters with XTR brakes and stock pads. They have as much power as I'd expect from such a brake, which is plenty when using 2.35" Small Block 8 tires on a 6" travel bike in the Rockies.
    Keep the Country country.

  26. #26
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    I have tested them all and by far the Ashima AiRotors are the winner. Just don't expect to have your pads to last very long!

  27. #27
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    FYI: all Ashima AiRotors should be run with the spokes curving into the direction of rotation (the opposite of most), it keeps the arms in tension when they are under braking force.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by gixer7
    I think it is. Supposedly what happened is the logos were printed on the wrong side. I have flipped my Ashima over. Couple of mates have warped their rotors and they had them mounted same as picture above.
    .
    That is the proper direction to run the rotors, the opposite of most any rotor that I am aware of.

    What size had the warping issues? Please explain further. They have sold over 70,000 discs since releasing them in 2008, some downhillers had some issues with the 203's, but that is all I am aware of.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    FYI: all Ashima AiRotors should be run with the spokes curving into the direction of rotation (the opposite of most), it keeps the arms in tension when they are under braking force.
    So the above rotors are on backwards?

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scimitar
    I have 160mm starlites with Elixir R's and they are definitely not as powerful as the stock Avid rotors. Same goes for windcutters too. They are woefully lacking in power for DH or FR. Might be okay for trail or XC but I'm not a fan. The weight savings isn't worth the performance degradation.
    Thanks that is what I didn't want to hear but Nino said the same thing in another post. Eh maybe I should just be happy with a 140R? or try the hope mini pros as mentioned above.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    I have tested them all and by far the Ashima AiRotors are the winner. Just don't expect to have your pads to last very long!
    That's enough reason for me not to get them. EBC warns about using these rotors and the wind-cutters. Saying there is no warranty if you use these rotors.

  32. #32
    LuizSalles
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    OK radiation vibe... I understand this too, but about the Hope mini pros ? I think they are more thin tham original rotors this is not a problem ?
    LuizSalles
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  33. #33
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    what about alligator serrations??
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuizSalles
    OK radiation vibe... I understand this too, but about the Hope mini pros ? I think they are more thin tham original rotors this is not a problem ?
    From what I have read on other threads they are the same thickness as other rotors. But they have some compatibility issues...

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/fo...ic.php?t=44979

    Hope Mini Pro's and rotor thickness

    Hope floating rotor compatibility

    I am now thinking about doing the 140R and Ti bolts... I can shave weight easier on other places on my bike than rotors.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambdamaster
    what about alligator serrations??
    serrations are now called wind-cutters so its the same thing. The only things that scares me about wind-cutters is that EBC does not recommend them just like the Ashima. So pad wear in other words... But at the same time they are only $13 right now and about 13 grams lighter than a G3 rotor. I'm looking into the formula's again as I type this.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by radiation vibe
    serrations are now called wind-cutters so its the same thing. The only things that scares me about wind-cutters is that EBC does not recommend them just like the Ashima. So pad wear in other words... But at the same time they are only $13 right now and about 13 grams lighter than a G3 rotor. I'm looking into the formula's again as I type this.
    ah i see
    I got a set of Ti-Nitride coated 160mm rotors for $20 a piece because I am on a dieting spree for my hardtail, and they look great =]

    oh yeah, they preform pretty well too
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  37. #37
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    Here are some pics of a couple of various rotors in the proper position. I also attached some info why the Ashima are run they way they are.

    The Ashima lightweight rotor struts work better under tension, when they under compression they are more susceptible to bending forces.
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  38. #38
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    I've always wondered why other rotors are mounted the way they are. Being under tension while braking makes more sense.
    Keep the Country country.

  39. #39
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    i had major problems with my front clean sweep, it would flex and hit the fork under braking. my rear doesn't do it but i got a different front (looks like a roundagon but has alot more holes. And yeah, it's an avid rotor)

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexJK
    i had major problems with my front clean sweep, it would flex and hit the fork under braking. my rear doesn't do it but i got a different front (looks like a roundagon but has alot more holes. And yeah, it's an avid rotor)
    your rotor hit your fork??
    I think this is the most fantastic claim you have made yet, alex... and still, we have no evidence.
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  41. #41
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    His hub/fork interface was flexing and allowing the rotor to hit the pads.
    I'm sure you already knew that Lambdamaster.
    Keep the Country country.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt
    His hub/fork interface was flexing and allowing the rotor to hit the pads.
    I'm sure you already knew that Lambdamaster.
    he is claiming his rotor hit the fork, not the pads
    you should take a look at his threads/posts in the specialized forum...then maybe you'll understand my skepticism of his claims.
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lambdamaster
    your rotor hit your fork??
    I think this is the most fantastic claim you have made yet, alex... and still, we have no evidence.
    you want proof? i'll get you proof!

    i'll get ya a picture!

    Hold me to it

  44. #44
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    is there a way to upload a picture directly from my mobile? my computer is gay and won't run photobucket and the file size is too big

  45. #45
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    here ya go asswhipe

    JK! i understand that you want proof, here ya go

    the spot where it hit is the big spot of bare metal to the left of the break...

    the previous fork had a much bigger spot worn into it
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  46. #46
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    I don't think your rotor was flexing. The fork/hub interface or hub itself was flexing and allowing the rotor to hit. There is no lateral force on the rotor so nothing could cause it to flex. If changing rotors solved the problem I'm not sure why. Maybe a slightly smaller outer diameter so while the new rotor is still flexing it doesn't quite reach the fork?

    Sorry for the thread derail but this sort of speculation and problem diagnosis is fun.
    Keep the Country country.

  47. #47
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    oh it was deffinatly the rotor, you could look down and hit the brakes and the rotor would easily be seen hitting the fork, the wheel wouldn't move like if the QR wasn't tight, but the rotor would, the mounting bolts were tight.

    and there must be lateral forces, it looks like the diagram above shows it. and if there weren't then why the heck would my rotor be hitting the fork?

    it did this everytime i hit the brakes and it quickly forced it into an out-of-dish condition.

  48. #48
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    Do you mean an out-of-true condition? Like the rotor would develop a wobble? This is puzzling but I assure you there are no lateral forces applied to the rotor. Look at it. When you apply brake to a spinning wheel the caliper applies equal pressure to both sides of the rotor. This does create very strong torque force between the rotor, which is attached to the hub and the caliper, which is attached to the fork. Look at the various connections between the caliper and rotor. Caliper mounts are pretty stiff (looks like you have post mounts on your fork which are very stiff), rotor mounts on hub are pretty stiff (I've never noticed flex from a 6 bolt hub).
    This leaves the fork/hub interface and the hub axle and bearings. Is your hub of high quality with properly adjusted bearings? If so it probably isn't flexing much but its axle will flex some. The thinner the axle the more flex. What axle/fork interface do you have? If it's a standard hollow axle with a QR skewer that is a known flexy system. A solid 9mm QR like Specialized's Skraxle (sp?) is stiffer and of course QR15 and 20mm thru axles are much stiffer.
    This is all meaningless speculation because you've managed to solve the problem with a different rotor but I can't see how this made any difference besides possibly a slightly smaller outer diameter that doesn't reach the fork, despite the other components flexing just like before.
    Keep the Country country.

  49. #49
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    ebc warns about using them with resin pads(green & red compound). i'm using windcutters(160/140) with shimano stock resin pads. on the front there's no premature wear, but on the back one pad was destroyed after about 500 miles. that was my mistake, caliper was badly aligned.

    so, i order ebc gold pads from ebay few days ago, we'll see how that works. i presume it will be louder, but pad wear and breaking power should be better.
    ~ Too weird to live, too rare to die ~

  50. #50
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    do you have a picture that is less zoomed-in?? I can't really tell what I am looking at.
    09AS-Rsl/09Six

  51. #51
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    i'm getting a picture right now, and starting a different thread in the brake forum

    kinda derailed this thread and i feel bad

  52. #52
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    FYI, just completed my review of the Ashima AiRotors... http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/ashima-airotor-review/, enjoy.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    FYI, just completed my review of the Ashima AiRotors... http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/ashima-airotor-review/, enjoy.
    Thanks however I am thinking I will end up with the formula rotors. Only 6 grams heavier and the brake pad wear is not a problem.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by radiation vibe
    Thanks however I am thinking I will end up with the formula rotors. Only 6 grams heavier and the brake pad wear is not a problem.
    Exactly the conclusion that I came to in the end. Work just like the stock rotors, no excessive pad wear, no odd pulsing or vibrations due to too much open space in the braking surface, don't have to buy "EBC Gold" pads to make it work with perfectly with my setup, and no compatibility issues. Paying $39 for an 89g, 160mm rotor that just works is the better long term deal, eh?

    I'll be posting pics of my new hardtail setup soon. Waiting on the new wheelset now. Not going to be ultralight, but more than rideable and raceworthy.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaLove
    Exactly the conclusion that I came to in the end. Work just like the stock rotors, no excessive pad wear, no odd pulsing or vibrations due to too much open space in the braking surface, don't have to buy "EBC Gold" pads to make it work with perfectly with my setup, and no compatibility issues. Paying $39 for an 89g, 160mm rotor that just works is the better long term deal, eh?

    I'll be posting pics of my new hardtail setup soon. Waiting on the new wheelset now. Not going to be ultralight, but more than rideable and raceworthy.
    Not sure which rotors you are mentioning since the thread is talking about multiple ones.

    I can't comment on the Formula rotors, since I have not used them. I will try to get a set after speaking with them at Interbike.

    The Ashima AiRotors have never given me any 'pulsing or vibrations', which the Alligator Serrated has done to me. The AiRotors do wear pads, but I would consider 'excessive pad wear' to mean they would get chewed up in a few rides and that is not the case, just faster than normal. You don't need any special pads (generics are fine) for the AiRotors, they just need to be sintered.

    Compatibility? That is a crap shot, I think you can have that issue with any rotors when you mix and match outside the brakes' product line. Until you have tried that third party rotor or another brake manufacturer rotors with your brand you will not know. However, the odds are better with the major brake producers for compatibility synchronicity.

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    Not sure which rotors you are mentioning since the thread is talking about multiple ones.

    I can't comment on the Formula rotors, since I have not used them. I will try to get a set after speaking with them at Interbike.

    The Ashima AiRotors have never given me any 'pulsing or vibrations', which the Alligator Serrated has done to me. The AiRotors do wear pads, but I would consider 'excessive pad wear' to mean they would get chewed up in a few rides and that is not the case, just faster than normal. You don't need any special pads (generics are fine) for the AiRotors, they just need to be sintered.

    Compatibility? That is a crap shot, I think you can have that issue with any rotors when you mix and match outside the brakes' product line. Until you have tried that third party rotor or another brake manufacturer rotors with your brand you will not know. However, the odds are better with the major brake producers for compatibility synchronicity.
    Mainly, I agree with you. I had no issues with the Alligator Serrated rotors using my BB7 brakes, but once I threw on my new K24s, that's when the pulsing became very noticeable on the front. I just received my Formula R1 rotors from Pricepoint. They really are only 89g each in the 160mm size! I'll report back after my new wheelset gets here. Hopefully next week.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by JaLove
    Mainly, I agree with you. I had no issues with the Alligator Serrated rotors using my BB7 brakes, but once I threw on my new K24s, that's when the pulsing became very noticeable on the front. I just received my Formula R1 rotors from Pricepoint. They really are only 89g each in the 160mm size! I'll report back after my new wheelset gets here. Hopefully next week.
    Yeah please let me know what you think since I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.

  58. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by radiation vibe
    Yeah please let me know what you think since I haven't pulled the trigger on them yet.
    So, I got the R1 rotors and they work GREAT with my K24s--but that was expected, eh? There is absolutely no noise or wierd pulsing going on wth these rotors and mine weighed in at 89g each. I'm using them with Ti torx rotor bolts and the stock K24 pads.
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  59. #59
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    The only issue with the R1 rotors is that they are 1.77mm, as opposed to the standard 2.0mm, so most brakes are not designed with that thickness in mind?

  60. #60
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    And whats the problem with that? You get bigger variations with pad wear...

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    The only issue with the R1 rotors is that they are 1.77mm, as opposed to the standard 2.0mm, so most brakes are not designed with that thickness in mind?
    According to my imperfect brass calipers, they are exactly the same 2mm width as my Alligator rotors. There is no difference in the width that I can see. Maybe a more accurate set of calipers could fiind a difference? If anything, the R1 rotors felt more grabby and bit earlier than the Alligator serrated rotors when first installed.

    Also, setting them both end to end next to each other, I see absolutely no difference in width between the two.

  62. #62
    FIRENZE rulez !!
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    do you see that Ashima rotors ARO 08 have the "arms" in opposite direction to all olther models ?

    not wrong mounting... we asked to Ashima directly via mail

    they was projected in that way .



    however , i had Scrub , Carbon Ti , now Stan's on my Scalpel , Alligator Windcutter , Ashima Aro, Formula ...

    better result compared to cost and weight is Formula ...

    cheap , steel ( no problem of pads , organic , metallic... as you prefer ) , light ....

  63. #63
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    No doubt.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    do you see that Ashima rotors ARO 08 have the "arms" in opposite direction to all olther models ?

    not wrong mounting... we asked to Ashima directly via mail

    they was projected in that way .



    however , i had Scrub , Carbon Ti , now Stan's on my Scalpel , Alligator Windcutter , Ashima Aro, Formula ...

    better result compared to cost and weight is Formula ...

    cheap , steel ( no problem of pads , organic , metallic... as you prefer ) , light ....
    I agree 100% on that conclusion.

  65. #65
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    http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2009/...irst-look.html

    So now I'm confused. The Ashima rotors I ordered about 6 months ago (front 180mm and rear 160mm were from 2 different vendors) both had the direction arrows indicating to mount the rotors with the spokes pointing away from the direction of rotation. I just ordered some more and both have the direction arrows indicating to mount with the spoke pointing into the direction of rotation. From the link above, I'm not sure which rotors have the correct direction of rotation.

    Also, was the original instructions to mount opposite from most rotors really a result of engineering decisions that were later changed or were they marked on the wrong side and later corrected?

  66. #66
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    They should be run in the normal rotor direction, meaning the rotor struts rolling against the direction of rotation. It was an engineering decision, and was based on warping issues (caused by the backwards direction) that were found only the 203mm size.

    So the pictures for rotation in http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2009/...irst-look.html are correct, while those in http://www.gramslightbikes.com/2009/...or-review.html are incorrect. Note, that I rode all the sizes in the incorrect direction and never had an issue. The warping issues happened with a select few downhill testers, who I can only assume they must have gotten the rotors pretty darn hot?

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    do you see that Ashima rotors ARO 08 have the "arms" in opposite direction to all olther models ?

    not wrong mounting... we asked to Ashima directly via mail

    they was projected in that way .



    however , i had Scrub , Carbon Ti , now Stan's on my Scalpel , Alligator Windcutter , Ashima Aro, Formula ...

    better result compared to cost and weight is Formula ...

    cheap , steel ( no problem of pads , organic , metallic... as you prefer ) , light ....
    I agree as well with these findings. I've tried a bunch and the R1's seem the smoothest. But, they do have a bit of "grinding" or "crunching" under heavy breaking - compared to stock G3 rotors. Otherwise they seem to be a great weight for the price!!

  68. #68
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    +1 for alligator windcutter

  69. #69
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    I have given up on the Alligator rotors. After some use I found a significant brake pulsation up front. I gave in and went right back to the OEM Marta wave rotors; end of problem. Sometimes you need to step back and realize while it's cool to have a lightweight bike that it's not worth having issues just to say it weighs "x" pounds if you can't rely on it functioning as it should. I enjoy riding with things working properly more than being overly consumed with having the lightest bike out there. I still want a light bike... but one that works well too.

  70. #70
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    The only difference I can feel between XT rotors and Alligators is the Alligators heat up quicker and maybe have less bite. No pulsing at all. Since you only got that in front maybe that rotor warped.
    Keep the Country country.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lelandjt
    The only difference I can feel between XT rotors and Alligators is the Alligators heat up quicker and maybe have less bite. No pulsing at all. Since you only got that in front maybe that rotor warped.
    I've heard "some" people don't feel the pulsing with Windcutters. I've got the pulsing on 2 different bikes, with 3 different brakes. Tired them both front and rear, with different pads each time. Tired 180's and 160's.

    At high speed I don't notice the pulsing.

    At very low speed I don't notice the pulsing.

    At medium speed - which is the bulk of my cross country riding - I feel the pulsing.

    Some rotors are definitely more "coarse" than others, and have a different bite on the pad. Windcutters have a bit that I don't prefer.

  72. #72
    More carbon fiber please!
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    Yep. I measured them and they are not warped any more than .001" so it's not a flatness issue at all. It's got to do with the harmonics of the cutout areas passing through the pads setting up a vibration. The issue is gone with the Marta rotors.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by pastajet
    FYI, just completed my review of the Ashima AiRotors... http://reviews.mtbr.com/blog/ashima-airotor-review/, enjoy.
    Thanks for the review of the Ashima rotors since the review uses Magura Marta calipers as I have a similar set-up (160mm F&R). In the review I carefully looked at the rotor pictures for pad wear and both rotors show even wear on the high and low sides of the channel. I cannot do that with the pads I use since my pads are 13mm deep and I mesured that pads need to be 15 to 15.5mm deep to cover both sides of the channel. My pads only cover the high side.

    Because of that situation I get terrible pulsing and vibration and weak power compared to stock wave sl rotors.

    What pads did you use to do the review? What height were they?

    Does anyone know where to get deeper pads for Martas?

    Thanks

  74. #74
    ups and downs
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    Interesting that Magura has a new set of Storm and Storm SL rotors... They're supposed to be lighter than the SL wavy rotors.
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    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  75. #75
    "They Call Me Bone'z"
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill
    Interesting that Magura has a new set of Storm and Storm SL rotors... They're supposed to be lighter than the SL wavy rotors.
    a magura rep told me that there building a new brakeset from the ground up that will be the lightest in the market.
    his words were "we are the ******** oldest manufacturer out there and were tired of formula beating us out"
    he said it wont be an upgraded marta but be all new better and lighter then the R1's
    RAH!

  76. #76
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    The windcutters pulse pretty badly on my bikes. I'll try something else next.

  77. #77
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    I'm about to go with Formula rotors. The only concern I have is if they will cover the width of pads on my Marta brakes. Could someone report the braking surface width on Formula R1 160mm rotors? Thanks!

  78. #78
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    Ashima rotors working great for me ¡



    Salu2
    Juan

  79. #79
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    Some data on the Marta Storm SL rotors

    Diameter: 203, 180, 160, 140 (NEW!) mm
    Weight: 15% less than predecessor
    (From 147g/0.32 lbs. (203mm) to 75g/0.16lbs. (140mm)

    and the Storm rotor

    Diameter: 203, 180, 160 mm
    Weight: 15% less than predecessor
    (From 177g/0.39 lbs. (203mm) to 114g/0.25lbs. (160mm)
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  80. #80
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    This is interesting... Bikeman has Carver Ti 160 and 140 brake rotors that are clones of the Mata SL.

    160mm rotor @ 55gms and 140mm rotor at 45gms. They're recommending organic/resin pads, I wonder what the braking performance is like?
    I'm a member of NSMBA and IMBA Canada

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by rockyuphill
    I wonder what the braking performance is like?
    Well we know that Ti doesn't brake as well as steel and resin pads don't brake as well as sintered, so I'm guessing fairly crappy. Good enough for most XC, but so are V-brakes.
    Keep the Country country.

  82. #82
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    My 160/140 setup with XTR 975s and Windcutters managed to slow me down, but complete stopping was difficult.

    Now I'm trying a 160/140 setup with Hope Racer X2s and their floating rotors. The stopping power is much better after only 1 ride, but I'll most likely get a 160 for the rear.

    I want the piece-of-mine of a 160 on back so I'm not worried so much about toasting the rotor. The X2 calipers grap surprisingly well.

  83. #83
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    I agree on ditching the 140. I was always cooking mine and it sucks to have to compensate with more front braking. Equal size rotors is the way to go on bicycles because we don't get as much weight transfer to the front as motorcycles (our bodies are most of the weight and we usually shift our weight back when braking).
    People who like smaller rotors in back must use their front brake more than I do.
    XTRs aren't a particularly powerful brake but they stop me with 160 windcutters. On my DH bike XTs with 200mm windcutters give me plenty of power and control.
    Keep the Country country.

  84. #84
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    My bike weights 7,600 plus me 70kg and i have enought with 140mm rear rotor to slow down , stop or whatever i want to do with my bike .
    Oh well i see im in a weight weenie forum , it seems not sometimes
    Salu2
    Juan

  85. #85
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    Im having some problems with my light weight rotors. I use Avid Juicy Ultimate brakes and first I tried 160mm gold Alligator Windcutters but I wasn't satisfied in power compared to the original Avid G2 rotors. Even with the original pads which are softer than sintered that are recommended for these rotors.

    I just bought a set of Ashima ARO-8 160mm rotors and they are 1.9mm thick so I can't get the pad rub completely off. Alligators were 1.7mm and i have no clue about the original Avid rotors thickness. Can I still go ride with them and will it get better in time? I've tried to center the pads several times and pushed the pistons all away apart with a screwdriver. Anybody else had any similar problems? I would really like to give these Ashimas a try.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by elasto
    Im having some problems with my light weight rotors. I use Avid Juicy Ultimate brakes and first I tried 160mm gold Alligator Windcutters but I wasn't satisfied in power compared to the original Avid G2 rotors. Even with the original pads which are softer than sintered that are recommended for these rotors.

    I just bought a set of Ashima ARO-8 160mm rotors and they are 1.9mm thick so I can't get the pad rub completely off. Alligators were 1.7mm and i have no clue about the original Avid rotors thickness. Can I still go ride with them and will it get better in time? I've tried to center the pads several times and pushed the pistons all away apart with a screwdriver. Anybody else had any similar problems? I would really like to give these Ashimas a try.
    On my set of Juicy Ultimates with Windcutters the EBC Gold pads made all the difference. Those have power and good durability.Days and night difference to standard Avid pads!

  87. #87
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    I have the new Formula RX brakes (sorry eliflap! went with brakes I could get parts for easily domestically) on my latest Racer-X 100 build and the combo of the stock R1 rotors and both the stock pads and my replacement Jagwire Redzone aluminum backed pads is amazingly powerful. I can't imagine any other rotor being more powerful than these for their size (160mm) and they weigh less than 90g each. I'm impressed. These have also been silent in all conditions so far with no strange vibrations or pulsing.

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