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  1. #1
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    ATIK integral crankset: 669g !!

    today i got some FRM chainrings and i was pretty excited when i put them on my scale:

    the set of 42/32/22 chainrings weighs just 99g
    the set with 44/32/22 weighs 107g
    the standard chainrings of the ATIK crankset weigh 135g

    in standard trim the ATIK crankset with ceramic hybrid bearings weighs 717-718g

    outfitted with FRM 42/32/22 chainrings, aluminium chainring bolts at the granny ring (comes with steel) the ATIK now weigh just 669g - sweet
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  2. #2
    Hack Racer
    Reputation: Cheers!'s Avatar
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    After a full season of ATIKs I'm going back to XTR CS-M970. I'll take the weight penalty for better chain line, better shifting, and better method of securing a crank arm.

    For some reason even after trying to adjust everything and try anything imaginable. Running the middle ring (32T) and the 34T cog on the cassette, the chain falls off the middle ring to the granny ring while climbing under power.

  3. #3
    56-year-old teenager
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    How well do the FRMs hold up to Clydesdale use?

    (Yeah, I know, stupid question...)

  4. #4
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    I've never understood how some brands can do three chainrings for less than raceface or blackspire does just the outer ring. Well... more neverunderstood WHY raceface and blackspire can't make their rings lighter.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainforce
    Cheers

    Sounds like you need to use some spacers on the middle ring if that's happening - or adjust the gears properly (not that im saying your not capable of doing so or haven't already).

    Just a suggestion.
    correct!

    chainline is no problem with these cranks. if you had problems it seems you had the cranks installed off-center. there's many guys using them without any problems.

  6. #6
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    too bad FRM is a pain in the ass to deal with

  7. #7
    Hack Racer
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountainforce
    Cheers

    Sounds like you need to use some spacers on the middle ring if that's happening - or adjust the gears properly (not that im saying your not capable of doing so or haven't already).

    Just a suggestion.
    Gears are fine. high and low limit screws are right on. No hesitation from shift. Height of the front dérailleur is set perfect. Angle of front dérailleur with respect to chain rings is also right on the money.

    What is this spacer(s) you mentioned? I didn't see any spacers in the box. All I did was take the crankset out of the box. Read the supplied instructions to see how many spacers I needed for my stumpjumper's frame. Installed everything.

    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    chainline is no problem with these cranks. if you had problems it seems you had the cranks installed off-center. there's many guys using them without any problems.
    I had thought that too and triple checked the instructions. I even purposely tried to omit spacers from the BB install (crankset will wobble left and right since there is a gap as spindle would be too long, and purposely had 2 spacers on the non drive side and 1 on the drive side... opposite of what instructions tell you to do (causes the drive side crank arm to hit the lizard skin on the chainstay. Visually you can tell there drive side crank arm is much closer than the non drive side crank arm when both are viewed with respect to the chainstay. ).

    I then checked to see if my chain was worn out and it was within spec. Right now the best I can adjust it to is it falls off the middle ring when climbing on the 34T XT cassette once every 10 times.

  8. #8
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    polishing a turd doesn't change what it is.

    Light but crap.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeeEight
    I've never understood how some brands can do three chainrings for less than raceface or blackspire does just the outer ring. Well... more neverunderstood WHY raceface and blackspire can't make their rings lighter.
    RaceFace does a terrible job with the weight of their rings. It's pathetic, really, BUT all you need is a hand drill and a set of files to put any overweight ring on a diet including the RF rings. I'm done spending $ on WW rings when I can source a good shifting ring for next to no $ and then trim it down to FRM ring weight.
    Every man has inside himself a parasitic being who is acting not at all to his advantage.
    William S. Burroughs

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axis II
    RaceFace does a terrible job with the weight of their rings. It's pathetic, really, BUT all you need is a hand drill and a set of files to put any overweight ring on a diet including the RF rings. I'm done spending $ on WW rings when I can source a good shifting ring for next to no $ and then trim it down to FRM ring weight.
    correct - but you need the tools and time to do so. not everyone likes to spend hours just to shave a couple of grams here and there...

    my 42t Sugino Supershifter: 49g
    my 42t + 29t chainrings: 68g

    just for compariosn: a shimano XT 44 weighs 82g
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  11. #11
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    with 44/32/22 FRM rings

    and with 44/32/22 FRM rings: 678g

    44/32/22 FRM rings (104/64mm): 107g
    standard ATIK rings (44/32/22): 141g

    standard inner steel chainringbolts: 9g
    optional aluminium inner chainringbolts: 3,5g
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  12. #12
    SUBLIM8er
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    Quote Originally Posted by nino
    and with 44/32/22 FRM rings: 678g

    44/32/22 FRM rings (104/64mm): 107g
    standard ATIK rings (44/32/22): 141g

    standard inner steel chainringbolts: 9g
    optional aluminium inner chainringbolts: 3,5g
    I like the look of those FRM rings. I really like all FRM stuff rom a visual standpoint, actually.
    Every man has inside himself a parasitic being who is acting not at all to his advantage.
    William S. Burroughs

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