Another WTB/Am classic disk hub problem, Ok so my front hub already is going to get a warranty replacement soon cause of badly sized bearings or something.
Now my Rear hub has a problem! My cassete can move about 1mm each way! This is not side to sidee play that the fix is to use a supplied spacer. This will actually round out the cassete and the hub if it continues. It moves with the direction of the chain in that sort of play, back and fourth. Although not notciable while riding you can clearly see it happening when you wiggle it with your fingers. BTW the hubs are basiclly brand new, and the cassete is a newish 9speed Deore. And remember I only way 120pounds!
I'm hopeing it's not another warranty problem!
Another WTB/Am classic disk hub problem, Ok so my front hub already is going to get a warranty replacement soon cause of badly sized bearings or something.
Now my Rear hub has a problem! My cassete can move about 1mm each way! This is not side to sidee play that the fix is to use a supplied spacer. This will actually round out the cassete and the hub if it continues. It moves with the direction of the chain in that sort of play, back and fourth. Although not notciable while riding you can clearly see it happening when you wiggle it with your fingers. BTW the hubs are basiclly brand new, and the cassete is a newish 9speed Deore. And remember I only way 120pounds!
I'm hopeing it's not another warranty problem!
Who put the cassette on? Did the person tighten the cassette to torque spec (ie ALOT). If not that may be your problem. Because its deore too, more of the rings are separate and have a habit of eating away at the delicate and soft aluminum body of the freehub.
Advice: Take it off, have a look, that may be the problem, put back on and get somebody strong to tigten the cassette back on.
You may see why I don't really like Am Classic hubs all that much. The only good thing about them is there low price here in Australia!
Who put the cassette on? Did the person tighten the cassette to torque spec (ie ALOT). If not that may be your problem. Because its deore too, more of the rings are separate and have a habit of eating away at the delicate and soft aluminum body of the freehub.
Advice: Take it off, have a look, that may be the problem, put back on and get somebody strong to tigten the cassette back on.
You may see why I don't really like Am Classic hubs all that much. The only good thing about them is there low price here in Australia!
Ok so I did what you just said about 1 hour ago, and what do you know! All gone! My mistake! Atleast I think it is better, is it possible I had one of the rings not sitting completely right? All I know now is I can't wiggle it like before, you think it possibly came loose or something?
Now just need to get my new front hub and all will be well, unless that new front hub is also 'bad'.
And yes there was noticable damage to the hub already but I think if it now doesn't wiggle, nothing will happen.
Ok so I did what you just said about 1 hour ago, and what do you know! All gone! My mistake! Atleast I think it is better, is it possible I had one of the rings not sitting completely right? All I know now is I can't wiggle it like before, you think it possibly came loose or something?
Now just need to get my new front hub and all will be well, unless that new front hub is also 'bad'.
And yes there was noticable damage to the hub already but I think if it now doesn't wiggle, nothing will happen.
Don't worry about the wear on the aluminum body of your Hub, it is quite common on hubs and most manufacturers sell replacement parts for down the track.
Apart from weight there are good reasons for going XT or XTR level with cassettes.
OT: In future this post would be best posted on the wheel forum or in general. With the new forums moderators are supposed to move posts if it is better suited in another section. Just FWIW.
Don't worry about the wear on the aluminum body of your Hub, it is quite common on hubs and most manufacturers sell replacement parts for down the track.
Apart from weight there are good reasons for going XT or XTR level with cassettes.
OT: In future this post would be best posted on the wheel forum or in general. With the new forums moderators are supposed to move posts if it is better suited in another section. Just FWIW.
Ye I knew my whole hub wouldn't need replacement if there was a problem.
Yup, my next cassete is xt, infact I have already planned it cause theres huge weight saving to be had. I will be putting on my new pc99 chain my the end of next month, so a new cassete will be used for my next chain replacment after that.
Ye, it's just that theres alot of people using these hubs here, as you know.
Any Shimano cassette below the XT level will chew up an aluminum freehub body. After enough miles have been put on it you'll find it difficult to remove the cassette - I found this out first hand in the nineties. I just filed down all the burrs on the freehub body and put an XT cassette on and never had another problem.
Any Shimano cassette below the XT level will chew up an aluminum freehub body. After enough miles have been put on it you'll find it difficult to remove the cassette - I found this out first hand in the nineties. I just filed down all the burrs on the freehub body and put an XT cassette on and never had another problem.
That is seriously bad! But why would it do that, surely shimano would recognize this fault?
It was definately a problem before but I think it's under control now, I don't think it is still slipping.
JUst wondering, what do you neeed to do, to get that freehub body off? And replace it? Is it an easy job?
Thanks
That is seriously bad! But why would it do that, surely shimano would recognize this fault?
It was definately a problem before but I think it's under control now, I don't think it is still slipping.
JUst wondering, what do you neeed to do, to get that freehub body off? And replace it? Is it an easy job?
Thanks
Its not a fault of Shimano at all. Not all freehub bodies are made out of stupidly soft material like that of the American classic hubs - ie my King, any shimano etc.
I don't know what tool your amclassic hub requires, may be a hex tool or a body remover - See Parktool.
Uhhh....let me the interrupt witch hunt for just a second.
Just to clarify...
The "stupidly soft" material on the Am Classic cassette carrier is the same 7075 aluminum Chris King uses for their aluminum cassette carrier. It's also the same material DT Swiss uses on theirs. Chris King and DT Swiss 240 hubs (and anybody else's aluminum cassette carrier) get exactly the same types of cog marks on them, especially if you run them with a lower-level cassette that doesn't have a cog carrier. Now, CK does make a steel cassette carrier, so maybe that's what you have. But that's an optional "special order" feature that's found on very few CK hubs, and it adds a lot of weight to the hub.
The reason that Shimano makes those lower-level individual cog cassettes is that: A) They are cheap to manufacture, B) All of their hub's cassette carriers are made from steel or titanium. Both of those material are hard enough that they don't get marked up by steel cogs. The only exception is the new Dura-Ace, which has an aluminum cassette carrier and is ONLY compatible with the new 10 speed Dura-Ace cassette. So Shimano couldn't care less how your Shimano cassette works with anything other than a Shimano hub. Shimano is the only brand you are supposed to buy, right?
Sometimes a cassette will become stuck on a aluminum carrier, but it's only slighty embedded in a little groove that keeps it from sliding straight off the carrier. You simply wrap a chain whip on it, rock it back out of the grooves, and it slides off. Not rocket science.
When a hub is new, the the cassette is pushing against a sharp 90-degree corner on the carrier spline. Under load, it will tend to mush down that sharp 90-degree corner and create a little groove or "seat" for itself. As it settles into this groove the surface area of contact between the cassette cog and carrier increases. Eventually, the cog will reach a equilibrium between the surface contact area created and the loads place on it, and the cog will cease to settle. This exact same process takes place on aluminum hub flanges where the steel spokes seat themselves into the flange. Once they smush down the corner of the flange hole and make a groove for themselves, they stop cutting down.
So our poster doesn't need to start planning what tools he needs to replace the cassette carrier. It's not designed as a "consumable component". I agree that it would be be preferable to switch to an XT or XTR or SRAM cassette that uses a spider design. So that might be a good thing to put on the "upgrade" list for down the road. It's justifiable from a weight standpoint
I understand that some folks may have had bad experiences with a product, and folks who buy the most expensive products tend to put-down anything that costs less. Still, it's a little distressing to see put-downs (and some inaccurate ones at that...) directed at the product and manufacturer. Apparently the problem was nothing more serious than a novice mechanic making a minor installation error when putting the cassette on.
So is it sort of urgent that I get a new cassette or can it wait say like 1000km?
Also, any way to stop the lockkring coming loose? I went for a very short ride today to find my cassete was wobbling again, I tightened it alot and now the wobble is gone but am sure it will be back on my next ride. Can I use locktite?
Some one should really complain to shimano about that, Another reason why I am trying to slowly move away from shimano stuff, except the obvious cassetes and stuff.
Some one should really complain to shimano about that, Another reason why I am trying to slowly move away from shimano stuff, except the obvious cassetes and stuff.
The "stupidly soft" material on the Am Classic cassette carrier is the same 7075 aluminum Chris King uses for their aluminum cassette carrier. It's also the same material DT Swiss uses on theirs. Chris King and DT Swiss 240 hubs (and anybody else's aluminum cassette carrier) get exactly the same types of cog marks on them, especially if you run them with a lower-level cassette that doesn't have a cog carrier. Now, CK does make a steel cassette carrier, so maybe that's what you have. But that's an optional "special order" feature that's found on very few CK hubs, and it adds a lot of weight to the hub.
You learn something new each day. I would have never guess it was the same material since my Am Classic hub was badly chewed up and my king like new....
Sometimes a cassette will become stuck on a aluminum carrier, but it's only slighty embedded in a little groove that keeps it from sliding straight off the carrier. You simply wrap a chain whip on it, rock it back out of the grooves, and it slides off. Not rocket science.
I understand that some folks may have had bad experiences with a product, and folks who buy the most expensive products tend to put-down anything that costs less. Still, it's a little distressing to see put-downs (and some inaccurate ones at that...) directed at the product and manufacturer. Apparently the problem was nothing more serious than a novice mechanic making a minor installation error when putting the cassette on
I sure hope you don't think I am one of those folks that buy the most expensive products and run everything else into the ground purely because it is cheaper. you probably think I am one of those poseur types that cant ride, but sure knows how to spend money on whatever looks nice and suits the decor. From my POV I had nothing but bad bad luck with my American classic hubs, and it appears poor biker_freak has had bad luck already with premature bearing hubs after what, and hours riding or something was it?
7075 isn't always the same as the next 7075. Having said that, Shimano also designed their spline system too shallow for aluminum. Their new 10s standard has higher splines and is better suite to the use of softer materials. The new 10s cassette will fit on any 9s Shimano body, old cassettes don't however fit on the 10s hubs.
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