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  1. #1
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    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?

    Wondering if I can go lighter? Anyone know the lightest 5 31.6mm seatposts for this year that can take xc mtbing?

    I am debating a new seatpost or run what I have for my new ww fatbike for snow riding. I am 140lbs. Aiming for sub 20 lbs with front suspension.

    I have a Woodman Carbo EL seatpost, 30.9 x 400mm at 125g. Add a 40g aluminum shim puts me at 165g.

    I can drill out my shim and knock off 10g easily and safely I believe. Might be able to trim post down too but still waiting for my frame to come in the mail.

    WW Wisdom is appreciated...

  2. #2
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    Schmolke TLO for the win. 31.6 x 350 = 91 grams.

  3. #3
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    Perfect xc71! I shoulda known. I run a sub 100g 34.9mm TLO on my race machine. I also just searched my pile of bits and found a 31.6 aluminum post. Weighs in a 131g.

    Hmmm so for about $18 a gram I can drop 33g..... To be decided upon frame arrival and weigh in.

    Thanks xc71

  4. #4
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    You bet. Very interested in your build, as I ride snow covered singletrack for approx. 5 months of the year. Will this bike be geared at sub 20 lbs.?

  5. #5
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    Borealis Custom Build Sub 20lbs (Hope so)

    I will weigh in when I have all parts but here is the guesstimate:

    Borealis Yampa m 1270g
    Next SL 175mm (30t ring/bb incl) 585g
    Egg Beater 11 174g/pr
    XX1
    Chain 253g
    Shifter w cable 105.5g (minus 10g switch to mini ilinks/swift)
    Cable Housing 61g
    Derailleur 242.1g (minus approx 40g for flite pulleys and cage mech)

    Extralite 90mm stem 81g
    Extralite grips cut 10g
    Extralite headset (w topcap/bolt/taper adapt) 55g
    Schmolke bars 80g (or 110g nn wider bars I have depending on how twitchy it feels in the snow),
    Bar Plugs 1g/pr
    Teknologika seat 126g
    6KCycles Seatpost 131g (might have to go TLO 91g)
    MT ZOOM clamp 5.5g
    Total: 3130.1g

    Wheelset #1: 5037g
    Northpaws 550g (x2= 1100g)
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Husker Du's 1240g (x2= 2480g)
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classic Valve Stems 4g (x2= 8g)

    Tubeless Wheelset #2: 5715.8g
    Crazy drilled out Darryls 1170.8g
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Bud 1563g
    Lou 1528g
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classics Valve Stems 4g (x2=8g)



    And then of coarse my Look Fat Fournales 1578g (but drilling/shaving also say approx -150g) (EDIT Done: came out to 1519.8 but still swapping out bolts)

    Will give true weights when come in but these are pretty close.

    Using the lightest variance here I am 9720.5g/ 21.43 lbs not including skewers and rim tape.

    I really want to hit 20 even or under just to do it.
    Last edited by WickedLite; 12-15-2013 at 07:06 PM. Reason: keeping all calculations in one spot

  6. #6
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    Very nice. Gonna be a killer Fat Bike.

  7. #7
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    Thanks xc71. I just reposted more specs. Just missing skewers and tape. I'm .55 lbs over my goal. what do ya think?

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    I'm doing a very similar build with a Lefty and I'm projecting it out to be 28lbs. One of us is way off (hopefully me). My XL Yampa is 1398g, plus X01, Bud/Lou, drilled RD, R1's, etc.

    Your housing will be much less than 61g (~20g) because of the internal routing. But I'd like to see a pic of your RD's at 550g or even 700g. I drilled mine to go from 870g to 800g each.

  9. #9
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    Looks like its going to be tough getting under 20 lbs. as you've done a great job so far.
    At your weight and for snow riding you could look at Sapim Superspokes. I have a wheelset built with them and so far so good. (not a Fatbike )
    Tune Speedneedle saddle is light at 87 grams, still has a leather cover which is nice for winter riding and the saddle does have alot of flex which I find makes it comfy.
    I would go Powercordz prime housing with Powercordz cable or I-Links and Powercordz cable. I wouldn't run PC cable with Mini I-Links.
    I'm really happy with Kettle's carbon brake pads for the SFL rotors - great stopping power and there only 8 grams for the set = XTR 985.

  10. #10
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    Good point on the housing. I still need some weight loss.

    My total bike weight was with the lighter Northpaws with Dillingers which makes a huge diff in weight right there. Looks like I'm gonna be 21lbs or a hair under unless I drop my suspension.

    I went with the Surly site stock weight on the Holy RD's 700g each. I weighed but lost paper and forget. RD's are at my machinist/engineer to get every gram I can outta there. A shop showed me a 30g drop drilling the odd spoke holes out that were not being used. In comparison, I should be a for sure 150g each off and hopefully a little more. I will get pics when I get them back, before and after anodizing. Huge cuts and many side profile holes.

    It's all the little bits that add up and I think I am close to on track. I had a +38lb Necro TANK last year. I rode it so much last winter, I figured I earned this one.

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    Never heard of the Superspokes. Always ran CX-Ray. I see the they are about 40g lighter. Nice!

    Hard to change the saddle. That Tune is crazy lite and scary..yikes. Teknologika just seems to fit and feel right. Every other saddle has always hurt. I prefer the flow but I have both on 2 bikes and 1 already for the fat.

    I will have to weigh in the Formula organics. Google-ing I am seein 20.4g 2 pads.

    All great info and I appreciate the help!

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    EDIT: nevermind, just saw that you already have rims!
    Good luck with the build! sub 20lbs would be pretty impressive!

  13. #13
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    Those rims sure look sweet, tubeless ready and at 590g/ 85mm... very nice but at $1500 they are outta of my budget this year.

    My Darryls should really come in between 630-650g if I am correct (so not too far off the carbondales) but then I have tape and more tape for a good seal. Hoping to get away without going ghetto which will pain me.

    Northpaws are 120g each so huge weight savings in comparison but narrow with less float. Easy tubeless conversion.

    Dropping my suspension puts under the mark forsure. Borealis fork at 575g uncut is crazy light but I gotta do my Fat Look Fournales at 1578g. It was magic when I put them on last year for longer funner rides. Gonna try and knock some weight off with the drill here too.

    This is MAAAD science

    So the dream now is weight drops for TLO post -40g, Superspokes -40g, rims -140g, housing -30g, fork unknown, brake pads unknown. That puts me at sub 20 lbs. These are still going to be a give and take when true weights come in and I still have to add skewers/tape/spacers and misc.

    I will start getting picks when everything starts coming together. Frame should be any day. New 6 paw hubs are delayed till Dec 5th. So I'm itchin hard utilizing this time for cold hard calculating, hoping and customizing.

  14. #14
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    Lightest Holy Darryls Ever! I didn't say safest...

    I stopped in to see how my Holy Rolling Darryls were comin. HOLY!!

    So they weighed in at 853g and 871g before. Here is a pic of one after drilling. Still need to smooth the edges so it's not a rolling flat.

    Now 600.5g for one and the other one is getting it's trim.

    I don't know how safe this is but it's done now. I have seen bigger cutouts on clownshoes so not too worried but yes a little.

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3428.jpgAiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3429.jpg

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is awesome. I cant wait to see the finished build. I really hope those hold up!

  16. #16
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    WW Fatbike eh? I have seen it all...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    WW Fatbike eh? I have seen it all...
    Really? Have ya seen a sloth with sunglasses before..probably. Name:  Sloth.jpg
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    Maybe not a Ze-brant?
    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-ze-brant.jpg

    Worth a WW look for real:
    Found: Outrageous 64g Dura Ace Derailleur
    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-64g-dura-ace-derailleur1-499x600.jpg

  18. #18
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    try not to eat before riding those rims

  19. #19
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    I'm 140lbs full and the bikes lookin like 20.5lbs. Fat tires for cush. Front suspension for cush and then the snow. I outta be alright. Don't ya think?

  20. #20
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    The more cush you get from the tyres, the lighter you can go on the rims.

  21. #21
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    Re: Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?

    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    I'm 140lbs full and the bikes lookin like 20.5lbs. Fat tires for cush. Front suspension for cush and then the snow. I outta be alright. Don't ya think?
    You should be just fine. I wouldn't worry for a second. Still plenty of meat on those wheels.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    I'm 140lbs full and the bikes lookin like 20.5lbs. Fat tires for cush. Front suspension for cush and then the snow. I outta be alright. Don't ya think?
    I don't think I would run those at a bike park in the summer, but for snow riding at your weight along with the monster Bud & Lou tires it should be fine.

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the reassurance guys! I usually push the limits of safety in everything without worry but was really curious on this one after looking at them.

    Frame shows tomorrow or next and I will get a true weigh in before and after paint. I have always loved the Smokey & the Bandit and Smokey Yunick's gold/black theme but I think I am gonna love old school bmx, chrome (Alsa Killer Chrome) with black letters. Anno red wheels and hubs.

  24. #24
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    I have seen all of those things.

  25. #25
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    If you are lucky you might get lighter tyres. My dillingers (albeit studdless) weighed in around 1180g each.
    Would rather be out riding!

    It's not just about a bike

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Next SL 175mm (30t ring/bb incl) 500g
    FYI QBP lists this at 545 grams w/o the ring. Add about 55g for the ring.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  27. #27
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    Yes, you are correct Silentfoe and thanks for pointing that out. I should include what I can for least surprise on outcome and that was overlooked. I will not cheat either with lighter parts to just weigh in. Just stuff as I will ride it.

    I did pretty honest guesstimates overall I believe but some will weigh more, some under. I will do a full sheet on true weigh in when I have it all and cross my fingers for my goal.

    A functioning tubeless setup is gonna make or break me I think. Not the end of the world but for my goal. If Borealis can make one at 21.09lbs, I should be able to beat it.

    They win at saddle, tires, lack of pedals and def the fork for sure . I win with bars, stem, housings and rotors which are no significant but yes with the rims.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Next SL 175mm (30t ring/bb incl) 500g
    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    FYI QBP lists this at 545 grams w/o the ring. Add about 55g for the ring.
    Let me give you the inside line on your FB build. We offer two FB spindle lengths both using the same 100mm BB (one for 170mm rears and one for 190mm rears). That said, our DM ring is reversible resulting in a 7mm outboard chainline shift.

    Long story short, you will get a 75mm chainline (great for 1X setups with 190 rears) if you use a 170mm spindle and reverse mount the ring on your Yampa. Doing so with also reduce the Q-factor from 222 to 202 and drop some weight.

    Weight of the setup described above is 585g including BB.

    e-mail components@raceface.com if you have questions or need help sourcing that setup.

    Thanks for riding Race Face.

  29. #29
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    Nice to see the big guys helping!

  30. #30
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    Well lucky me. My lbs just got my cranks today and they happen to be with the 165-170mm (stamped) spindle. Ring comes next week.

    They didn't know what I was talking about but were happy to hear the news as well.

    I probably would have returned them thinking they wouldn't fit and had more down time.

    Thank you Race Face! That is a nice dif in the Q and I love saving weight especially at no loss.

  31. #31
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    That is awesome for sure. I'll order some tomorrow.
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

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    Schmolke TLO 31.6 x 375mm ~ 104g
    Last edited by cwcheung; 12-13-2013 at 10:35 PM.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    I stopped in to see how my Holy Rolling Darryls were comin. HOLY!!

    So they weighed in at 853g and 871g before. Here is a pic of one after drilling. Still need to smooth the edges so it's not a rolling flat.

    Now 600.5g for one and the other one is getting it's trim.

    I don't know how safe this is but it's done now. I have seen bigger cutouts on clownshoes so not too worried but yes a little.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    With all those holes reminds me of filmstrip. I hope do something like flip book with tape.

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    Quote Originally Posted by indigo_falconm40 View Post
    With all those holes reminds me of filmstrip. I hope do something like flip book with tape.

    Yes that is a great idea! I was looking through the cut out thread and someone suggested it there too. I think it should, could and quite possibly be done really cool. I'll really have to rack my brain for a sweet 32 clip continuous story, even if it's just a stick man.

    Maybe a guy running in the front one and a horde of zombies in the rear chasing him. just came to me...who knows

  35. #35
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    I cant wait to see the bike built up! Snow is falling, better hurry up!
    If you believe that I've got some magic beans to sell ya.

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    Thanks for the root jakomonster. 11 days (Dec 5th) till the new Borealis 6 paw hubs are released.... fingers crossed. This gives me a little tinker time for weight droppin and paint sloppin, weeeell a mist to keep the weight down.

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    Yes I do and I will.... yee haw. At 480g each they are sweet. A total of 240g (.53 lbs) lighter than my cut out RDs.

    Still heavier than my Northpaws at 120g each though.

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    Edit: I just redid some specs and weights but still not in stone till true weights come in.

    New calculations are 8735.1 grams or 19.26 lbs

    Not including skewers and rim tape and not deducting seatpost switch (-40g) if needed.

    That's 336.75 grams to play with for anything else that goes on like skewers, rim tape/strips, a couple brake housing clips and misc.

  40. #40
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    Not sure if you've seen them yet, but Tune is doing a fat bike version of the king/kong hubs. 130 grams front and rear is 235 grams with the XX1 driver.

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    Where are you getting 120 grams per rim for those northpaws? The listed weight on their website is 550 and they state that their rims are up to 120 grams lighter than many lighter 65mm wide options. So unless you where able to butcher out over 350 grams from those rims I have a hard time believing that kind of weight.

  42. #42
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    Thanks Woz. That's 263g lighter than Borealis hubs with XX1 Driver BUUUT they are only 170mm rear not the needed 190mm.

    Dooooh! Thanks and no thanks murphy87. You are correct.

    My Northpaws weigh in at 561g and 562g (1123g). Which adds 883g. Equals 9618.1g or 21.21 lbs

    That hurts the goal for sure.

    So a Schmolke seatpost (-40g) and maybe a new saddle (-50) to drop down fast. But I don't know if I will.

    Anything else I am missing? Guess I can aim for sub 21 lbs. I have to loose 95.26g plus weight for skewers, tape and misc

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    What cranks? Maybe Hollowgram Si with raceface SL spindle - Hollowgram / Next SL FatBike crankset

  44. #44
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    Thanks TigWorld. I have the 170mm Next SLs comin (any friggin day now son of a... it's dumpin a sweet 15cm tonight rant) with spiderless chainring (585g). It's lighter than running spider and XX1 ring, bolts.

    Very cool having cranksets interchangeable and I am surprised more companies don't do it. I read in that thread someones RaceFace SLs arms were 1g lighter than Hollowgram Si.

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    You could ditch your drivetrain and go single speed and save some additional weight and maybe reach 20 pounds or less?

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    I don't know how you guys do it.. Respect. I need my gears and I need my suspension fork.

    I could go lighter:
    Tune Becker Saddle 57g instead of 126g Save 69g
    Borealis fork: 575g instead of 1500g Save 925g
    1 cog: say 50g instead of shifter, cable, housing, cassette 807.8g Save 757.8g
    Ax Stem: 60g instead of 81g Save 21g
    Minus Sealant: Save 200g
    Total Savings: 1972.8g or 4.35 lbs
    Equals Approx Bike weight: 7645.3g or 16.86 lbs not including skewers and tape.

    That's 15g lighter than my race bike lol

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    Well great news, my Yampa frame came today. Weighs in 1314g with the internal routing which I am scared to take out cause I'm gonna need to use them to run my brake hoses and shift cable thru there. But they will come out.

    I gave Borealis a call and Greg answered a couple questions.

    Leave those routing cables to assist in routing your new cables cause it will be a nightmare doing this without them. There is no entrance for fingers rear of toptube, in the seattube area.

    Hubs look like they are coming in 2nd week of December Shyt!

    Looks like I'm renting a muk for a couple weeks. Off to the painter I go.

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    Yup and with so little weight to push around one gear is plenty! I am pushing around a 31 pound steel beast on 65's and 4.0's right now for snow riding in anchorage and must say it isn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Gearing is 32-22 at the moment and for off road riding near perfect or as perfect as a single speed can be. Definitely learning to conserve speed and use the brakes less.

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    I really don't understand ss. Talking summer riding, I'm a real fast climber on long steeps and use granny but on flats I need a higher gear to push the bike faster. I can't even imagine one gear being low enough for me to get up a steep hill and then spinning crazy revs on flats just to have high speed. And there's no pedaling downhill I guess with single speed? In races, I pedal till I'm done.

    Mother just dumped some 25cm of sweet snow today. Muk is rented for 2mrrw. Bike is getting prepped for paint and is ready in 2 weeks... just before my hubs come in.

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    Your a real fast climber in your granny.......

  51. #51
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    Let's just say I use granny and have no problem using it or saying that I do and we can leave it at that. No need to open a can of worms on who's better at what.
    Last edited by WickedLite; 11-27-2013 at 05:47 PM.

  52. #52
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    I think I give up. There is no way I can lose the weight I want without ridiculous amounts of money over the ridiculous amount I am at. I have never weighed all parts before a build and calculated out like I have here. I do like to normally weigh in after builds as a whole to see.

    I still need to lose 92.66g plus skewer and tape weight to hit 21 lbs even. So even with cost/weight savings with Superspokes ($300/40g), Schmolke post ($625/40g), Tune Becker mtb saddle ($500/64g).....

    Puts it at $1425 to lose another 144g and that would leave 51.34 grams max for skewers and tape to even up at 21 lbs.

    I think I might use that money to go to Mexico this February which is B*tchin cold and gloomy up here. Yea, I think that's the best idea. 21.5ish lbs fat sweetness it is.

    To be continued.....
    Last edited by WickedLite; 11-27-2013 at 05:50 PM.

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    We need more pictures.

  54. #54
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    I know, I know John. I like to see pics too but I guess I'm pretty lazy at the moment. I have a shatter/waterproof case for my phone but I gotta rip the thing apart every time to upload pics.

    I will be vigilante on getting more pics when I get my frame and wheels back for the paint.

    The goal is chrome and black keeping true to Borealis except I am breaking up that red side stripe into a broken black stripe, kinda like the 1970 AAR Cuda side stripe.

    I will add that those inserted tubes that come in the inner routing of the Borealis frame.... I learned, you should use the tube to guide your rear brake through. Derailleur internal routing are no problem to route through, so I am told and I will learn the truth of the matter when I start puttin it together.

    Here is a pic being dropped at my paint shop yesterday. Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3438.jpg

  55. #55
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    Northpaw rims are 550g each, not 120!
    http://schlickcycles.com/bikes/northpaw-47mm-rim/

  56. #56
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    You might be able to reach your weight goal by just selling off your two sets of rims and picking up a set of the HED wheels so long as they come in at the claimed 480 a hoop. I think their pricing is something like 850-875 per wheel and that includes the spokes and nipples in addition to labor for build up.

  57. #57
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    Just out of curiosity did you weigh your frame before sending it off to paint? I would just be curious to hear the difference in weight after you get it back from paint whether it is the same, more or less. I know I was shocked when I had a set of rabbit holes powder coated last year and they actually came out weighing less.

  58. #58
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    Re: Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?

    Wtf the new carbon hed rims out time to re decide your wheel build! 450-480 grams are estimated per rim.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  59. #59
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    SmooveP, Northpaw weight was corrected on page 2 of thread already. Thanks though.

    I really want those HED Wheels but that's gonna be delayed for me. I just started my cutout project 1 week before these came out so I am in it now. Maybe when these fold from being so cut out lol.

    Darryls cutouts are done and I will anno these red like I want. Weights came in at a descent weight though. 586.6g and 598.7g respectively.
    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3439.jpgAiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3440.jpg

    Murphy87, frame came out to 1317g with housing in them. I didn't take out in case I need them for guiding cables/hoses through. Turns out, only need tube in for rear brake.

    Fournales getting a trim
    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3443.jpgAiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3444.jpg

  60. #60
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    My xmas prez to a couple friends, I rented a Beargrease and a Muk fat for nite ride tonight. My rental for the week is the nice new sunburst orange Muk.

    Gonna be cold but the snow here should be perfect for riding tonight.

  61. #61
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    I have the chance to build quite a few borealis yampas up now and everyone i have built up has the cable guides fixed into the frame. Those clear tubes in your frame should not be needed. If you look inside the head tube you should be able to see the cable and housing guides permanently fixed inside the frame.

  62. #62
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    Thanks Murphy87.

    I did call Borealis and Glenn said the brake one was needed to guide brake hose through. Derailleurs, not needed.

    I felt inside and could feel they were internal. I was surprised the toptube is sealed off inside at seattube. Better for frame strength but if someone HAD to guide cables through without a hose in there already it would be a nightmare. And that's why I called.

    I'm surprised Borealis said they were needed. I do believe you and will remove. I'm checkin on my frame Monday or Tuesday. Pullin them things out and gettin a true weigh in.
    Last edited by WickedLite; 12-01-2013 at 06:08 AM.

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    Ya just shine a light down through the headtube you should be able to see the internal guides permanently fixed inside the frame. We received our first frame from them with those guides and thought the same thing until further inspection and realized the inside of the frame has guides. Just strung up housing for the rear brake without those little plastic tubes and it feed right through. I am interested to see how the paint comes out. I toyed with the idea of doing something different myself but have only ever had bike stuff powdercoated so I don't know any good local painters.

  64. #64
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    Have you guys just run inner housing or went outer all the way through?

    As for paint. Spray bombin is real easy and holds well. Not as great as powder coating but not far off from my experience. I have painted many bikes, single or two tone. Nothing fancy.

    It's as easy as reading the paint can instructions really. If you are painting a new bike you are laughing. Just fine sand with high grit paper (5000) just to scuff paint for new paint to stick (and level out any decals under clear coat). If carbon frame, be careful not to sand down to carbon. Just a lite smooth scuff on the clear coat will suffice. Wipe down with acetone and lint free cloth. Do a lite even coat of primer. Do one more if you feel the need. Then do 2-3 lite even coats of paint within 10 min of each other and then a couple clear coats within 30 of last coats.

    If painting an older bike, I recommend media blasting of some sort. It's faster than sanding all the nooks and crannies and rough sandpaper can ruin nice joint welds, especially with aluminum. Clean, prime and paint. Note, there may be some dings or gouges in frame that you can fill with liquid metal or bondo to level up and you won't even notice after smoothed and primed.

    My last bike I painted was new carbon. I smoothed and primed black and left it that way. Added some red cut vinyl decals. Still looks great after riding hard for a year. Wish the decals were under clear cause I'm getting a little peeling but I like the flat black.

    The only reason I took to a paint guy was I'm try the Alsa Killer Chrome. Any slight blemish or ripple will show easy with the reflection rate. Should actually turn out like polished aluminum with the clear on. Airbrushing the logos would be costly but with weight savings. I chose thin decals to go under clear coat for this build.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Thanks Murphy87.

    I did call Borealis and Glenn said the brake one was needed to guide brake hose through. Derailleurs, not needed.

    I felt inside and could feel they were internal. I was surprised the toptube is sealed off inside at seattube. Better for frame strength but if someone HAD to guide cables through without a hose in there already it would be a nightmare. And that's why I called.

    I'm surprised Borealis said they were needed. I do believe you and will remove. I'm checkin on my frame Monday or Tuesday. Pullin them things out and gettin a true weigh in.
    I fed the brake without the guide tube and so did my lbs on a different one. Don't really know how you would use it anyways on Hydro lines. As far as full length cable housing for the der. there are stops built in on each end so not really possible. I can weigh the tubes I pulled it you wish?

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Don't really know how you would use it anyways on Hydro lines.

    Thanks bdundee. Glen exlpained to attach the hydro line to tube and use it to pull hydro through...not run hydro through the tube.

    But I agree with ya guys and went to the shop and pulled them out for my weighin. 1307g with derailleur hanger removed. I think Borealis might be doing weighin without decals and clear coat.
    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3450.jpg
    Last edited by WickedLite; 12-07-2013 at 05:40 PM.

  67. #67
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    As bdundee said the rear brake housing is full length lever to caliper but the shift routing has stops built into the frame so you are simply cutting to desired length. As for a rear hydro hose they should feed right through the frame as regular brake cable housing did.

    Thanks for the tips on painting. I have tried my hand at it a few times but it is one of those things that I can't seem to figure out. I know enough to understand that it is all about the prep work. I just don't have the patience for it. Not having the right facilities to properly prep and paint in I have just come to terms with letting a professional take care of that stuff. Your bike should be very nice looking when complete> Definitely be interested to see some details photos of the complete bike.

  68. #68
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    Stans is coming out with fatbike rims. Approximately 500gr for the narrower rim.

    Interbike Day 3 On the Show Floor ? Part 2 | FAT-BIKE.COM

    Coming out early next year.

    View topic - Fat Bike Rims ? Messageboard.NoTubes.com

    You can probably drill them out a bit and save even more

  69. #69
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    Nice find DFYFZX. Those Stans sound pretty sweet for tubeless and weight.... I can work with that lol. I heard Stans was working on a wider rim too but that's just hear say. I think next year is going to be huge for fatbiking with more companies jumping on board and the ones that have been in from the start will be making better stuff. It's a great year so far with Next's adaptable and crazy lite crankset. Carbon wheels and frames oh my....

    I still think the HEDS are best wheelset out there by width/weight ratio and tubeless ease so far. Not cost. And this is only by my own ejamakated guess from pics so take that for what it is.

  70. #70
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    We will be getting a complete wheel set from HED on borealis hubs for a customers build as well as Carbondale's on borealis hubs. Both will be weighed without tires to compare weights. I for one am a little skeptical of the actual weights on the HED rims because I have found 4 different weights listed in since they where announced. Having spoke with the guys at HED the claimed weight is 480 grams for production rims. The thing I am curious about is the 166 additional grams for the "build kit". Complete wheel weights will be recorded and pics taken to compare the HED wheels against the Borealis wheels to see if the 135 gram difference is real.

  71. #71
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    Can't wait to hear the weigh in on those HED hoops. They make it in yet murphy87?

  72. #72
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    news? cant wait to see pictures of the bike

  73. #73
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    Good news... Got some puuurty rims and red seems to be 1.1g lighter than the original black. Just kidding. Decals are off.Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_3460.jpg

    Fournales forks originally at 1578g are now at 1514.9g so 63.1g off. Not the 150g I was hopin for but I'm still workin on them so I'll keep at er and get pics up when done. MIght squeeze another 5g yet but that's gonna be it, me thinks.

    Still waiting on hubs and to hear HED weighins cause I think I "need" them.

  74. #74
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    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?

    Look for fully forged Proti FFR titanium bolts for your project...the best in the market. PM me if you want them.

  75. #75
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    My HED's laced to Salsa conversion hubs with xx1 driver, taped and with valves weigh 1890g. We also got in a set laced to 907 190 hubs untaped and w/out valves they weigh 1800g

    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Can't wait to hear the weigh in on those HED hoops. They make it in yet murphy87?

  76. #76
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    As soon as we see them they will be weighed and pictures taken. We will probably see my carbondale wheels first and those to will be weighed and pictures taken for comparison.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post

    Fournales forks originally at 1578g are now at 1514.9g so 63.1g off. Not the 150g I was hopin for but I'm still workin on them so I'll keep at er and get pics up when done.
    You can save the around 100g with DT swiss damper and additional gramms with titan screws and alumimium nuts...

  78. #78
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    Thanks for the chime in guys.

    I have pulled all fork bolts and am trying to see the lightest way to go. I can go aluminum bolts in some places and even taper head to knock down more weight.

    Hard to find weights on bolts with different heads and lengths.

    Scalty... I have scoured the net looking for someone having replaced the Fournales shock and I can't find anyone. I did a quick measurement and the damp comes out to 227mm eye to "bottom" since there is no eye. The bottom is mounted by a screw that goes straight in bottom. Which DT Swiss damp will work? (cause I'm only seeing damps with eyes on both sides)

  79. #79
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    Bump. I got the bug still: guesstimate with edit:

    Borealis Yampa m 1307g plus hanger 12g, bolts 1.9g
    Next SL 175mm (30t ring/bb incl) 585g
    Egg Beater 11 174g/pr
    XX1
    Chain 253g
    Shifter w cable 105.5g (minus switch to gore cable)
    Cable Housing 61g (minus switch to Quaxar housing)
    Derailleur 242.1g (minus for KCNC pulleys and Flite cage mech)

    Extralite 90mm stem 81g
    Extralite grips cut 10g
    Extralite headset (w topcap/bolt/taper adapt) 55g
    Schmolke bars 80g (or 110g nn wider bars I have depending on how twitchy it feels in the snow),
    Bar Plugs 1g/pr
    Teknologika seat 126g
    6KCycles Seatpost 131g (might have to go TLO 91g)
    MT ZOOM clamp 5.5g
    Total: 3130.1g

    Wheelset #1: 5037g
    Northpaws 550g (x2= 1100g)
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Husker Du's 1240g (x2= 2480g)
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classic Valve Stems 4g (x2= 8g)

    Tubeless Wheelset #2: 5715.8g
    Crazy drilled out Darryls 1170.8g
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Bud 1563g
    Lou 1528g
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classics Valve Stems 4g (x2=8g)


    Look Fat Fournales 1519.8g (but still swapping out bolts)

    Using the lightest variance here I am 9721.4g/ 21.43 lbs
    Not incl. skewers, rim tape, spoke nipples. (minus a couple grams for some small part swaps listed)

    How low can I go..... keeping my forks and xx1?

  80. #80
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    Can drop weight here but can I do better?

    Saddle: Teknologika 126g to Ax Lightness 1000 55g= 71g
    Post: 6Kcycles 131g to Schmolke TLO 91g= 40g
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Ray 272g to Sapim SS 231g= 41g
    Wheels: Northpaws 1100g to HED 960g= 140g
    Rotors: SiCCC 55g to Absolute Black ISO TITANIUM 45g= 20g
    Bars: Schmolke 80g to Ax Lightness Hera 60g= 20g
    Stem: Extralite 81g to Ax Lightness Zeus 65g= 16g

    Savings 348g/ 0.77 lbs

    Equals 20.66 lbs of very expensive fatbike sweetness. not including skewers, tape, nipples.
    Last edited by WickedLite; 12-15-2013 at 09:57 PM.

  81. #81
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    I think if you use the HED rims you have to use their spokes, nipples and washers which ups the weight a bit from the Sapims. Still the lightest way to go for now. Your bike is going to surprise a lot of people who think fat has to be heavy.
    Latitude 61

  82. #82
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    Personally after some of the experiences we've had I won't ever consider an Ax bar or stem on one of my bikes, so I'd recommend taking the weight penalty and going with the TLO. Besides to get a Hera at 60 grams you're going to end up with a bar at probably 480-500mm. The 560-660 bars are listed at 70-100 grams, which puts them in line with the TLO.

    The Ax-1000 is a road only saddle and likely wouldn't last long on the dirt.

    I also think the weight of your Extralite headset setup is off, I'm not sure which adapter you'd be using, but I think it will be a little bit heavier than you listed.

    On the upside you've probably over estimated your tire weight. We've seen ranges on the tires from 1210 up to 1250, but a pretty solid average is right at 1230 grams.

    You can also use Pillar Xtra spokes to shave another 20 or 30 grams over the Superspoke.

    Without doing the math, something doesn't seem right with your crank/bb/ring numbers, I think you may find some weight savings there as well.

    BTW, what size is the frame you have?

  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Bump. I got the bug still: guesstimate with edit:

    Borealis Yampa m 1307g plus hanger 12g, bolts 1.9g
    Next SL 175mm (30t ring/bb incl) 585g
    Egg Beater 11 174g/pr
    XX1
    Chain 253g
    Shifter w cable 105.5g (minus switch to gore cable)
    Cable Housing 61g (minus switch to Quaxar housing)
    Derailleur 242.1g (minus for KCNC pulleys and Flite cage mech)

    Extralite 90mm stem 81g
    Extralite grips cut 10g
    Extralite headset (w topcap/bolt/taper adapt) 55g
    Schmolke bars 80g (or 110g nn wider bars I have depending on how twitchy it feels in the snow),
    Bar Plugs 1g/pr
    Teknologika seat 126g
    6KCycles Seatpost 131g (might have to go TLO 91g)
    MT ZOOM clamp 5.5g
    Total: 3130.1g

    Wheelset #1: 5037g
    Northpaws 550g (x2= 1100g)
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Husker Du's 1240g (x2= 2480g)
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classic Valve Stems 4g (x2= 8g)

    Tubeless Wheelset #2: 5715.8g
    Crazy drilled out Darryls 1170.8g
    Borealis hubs 189g + 359g= 548g
    XD-11 Drive 82.3g
    Cassette 263.9g
    SiCCC SFL 160mm rotors 55g (x2= 110g)
    Rotor Bolts 4.8g
    Sapim Superspokes 64 spokes 240g
    Bud 1563g
    Lou 1528g
    Skewers
    Tape
    Sealant 100g (x2= 200g)
    American Classics Valve Stems 4g (x2=8g)


    Look Fat Fournales 1519.8g (but still swapping out bolts)

    Using the lightest variance here I am 9721.4g/ 21.43 lbs
    Not incl. skewers, rim tape, spoke nipples. (minus a couple grams for some small part swaps listed)

    How low can I go..... keeping my forks and xx1?
    What brakes are running Wicked.

  84. #84
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    Thanks Woz,

    Medium frame dedicated to my winter god. I have other bikes for different stuff.

    I don't like mismatching parts too much and I do love Schmolke. I have never used AX so thanks for the input.

    You know since I started this build somewhere in my head said aim for 20lbs and I'm pretty stubborn so what can I do. I will be pleased none the less coming from my 39 lb Pugs. I usually build the way I want and they come out lite. I seem to almost be a slave to weight on this. Either way, anyone can build a fatty under 20lbs really. But can you build it the way ya want it? I don't think I can at that weight mark. I need my suspension fork. I need XX1. Heck that XX1 has been sitting in my bike room for over a year gathering dust. Since it's snow maybe maybe I can get away without front brakes as I have seen some do. We'll see.

    I missed that on Ax 1000 was a road. I will look further.

    Extralite Ultraheadset w. Extrabolt 16 on scale: 55g (no star. included on fork)

    Raceface Suit himself chimed in on the crankset 585g total weight.

    My full weighin: 532.5g without ring. I will weigh ring when it shows but I have 52.5g for it to spare. So I should be bout 3-4g under 585g.

    I saw your lite fat project in the works on another thread but you are being pretty secretive on what's brewin. When's the next update?

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    What brakes are running Wicked.
    Really?! That's not in there?! son of a more weight!! But braking iiiis good.

    Formula R1 Racing... Polished cause it's lighter AND faster. With kevlar housing.

  86. #86
    Woz
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    I look forward to seeing how yours turns out. I went with the same attitude of building it how I wanted but not to simply be as light as possible. If I really went with a focus solely on weight it would have been sub 19, but instead opted to go with what I really wanted to use, not what was simply the lightest. In the end I think it will be a great bike. Just a couple pieces left that I'm waiting on. Next update will be posted in just a few minutes.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    Really?! That's not in there?! son of a more weight!! But braking iiiis good.

    Formula R1 Racing... Polished cause it's lighter AND faster. With kevlar housing.
    Whoops, I just pushed you into the 22's. You could always leave them off and Fred Flintstone it - snow has alot of resistance on those big tires. LOL.

  88. #88
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    haha xc71. yes you did thank you. 99.79 grams over exactly thanks and this still does not include skewers, tape, spoke nips (say 200g) .

    So much for sub 20 and sub 21 lbs. But I will be aiming sub 22 lbs for sure nooow.

    Just a little recalculating and more tweekin to do. Now just to lose 300g to stay under 22lbs

    Xmas list is Schmolke seat post -40g, Pillar Xtra spokes -20g, guess 30g drop in rear derailleur cage/pulleys and housing. Leaves 210ish grams ta go.

  89. #89
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    Wickedlite, if you want to shoot me an email I'll send you a spreadsheet that we use for calculating builds that lists everything so you can make sure you've got it all there.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by sryanak View Post
    I think if you use the HED rims you have to use their spokes, nipples and washers which ups the weight a bit from the Sapims. Still the lightest way to go for now. Your bike is going to surprise a lot of people who think fat has to be heavy.
    Thanks sryanak. I am still awaiting for people to show their weighins on the HEDs to determine if I am really getting or not. By the time I am ready for them cause it ain't now, there just might be somethin brewin with fatbiking moving so fast.

    I know there are some pretty light fatbikes out there already and I am not trying to be the lightest. I think someone could hit under 17 lbs with what's available but it would be a single speed. Using summer riding as a reference and being able to ride a 25lb bike and then a 17lb bike is like night and day so I am in pursuit of lighter, than heavier, for this snowrider.

  91. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    haha xc71. yes you did thank you. 99.79 grams over exactly thanks and this still does not include skewers, tape, spoke nips (say 200g) .

    So much for sub 20 and sub 21 lbs. But I will be aiming sub 22 lbs for sure nooow.

    Just a little recalculating and more tweekin to do. Now just to lose 300g to stay under 22lbs

    Xmas list is Schmolke seat post -40g, Pillar Xtra spokes -20g, guess 30g drop in rear derailleur cage/pulleys and housing. Leaves 210ish grams ta go.
    Is this thing going to exist or just remain on paper?

  92. #92
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    Holy Camoly! I hope sooner than later! I was ready to go snow ridin 2 months ago.

    Sadly don't think it's getting done by Xmas. Hubs and ring are friggin still comin and my paint guy is perfecting samples before attempting the frame. This paint is different and must be done right.

    I have everything else to get her going. Lighter post gets ordered after holidays.

    Edit: And why ya bustin my nutz? I'm hearing guys talk about building bikes they are planning on building to be complete a year from now. Yikes.

  93. #93
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    Here's mine

    This is not exactly a weight weenie bike, but it is loads of fun and a similar build to the one being discussed.

    XL Yampa
    Lefty Max 140mm -> 90mm w/ XLR
    Extra drilled RD's (~800g per rim)
    Next SL, 28T, 170mm spindle
    X01 drivetrain
    R1 brakes
    KCNC/FSA cockpit
    Bud/Lou tubeless (ribbon, foam, tape, Stans)
    CB Mallet's

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-20131211_140837.jpg

  94. #94
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    Looks sweet williford! Thanks for sharing. Looks like a killer place for open riding too. Where?

    You should post up in bdundees Borealis pics and specs thread:

    Borealis Picture and Specs Thread

  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by WickedLite View Post
    why ya bustin my nutz? I'm hearing guys talk about building bikes they are planning on building to be complete a year from now. Yikes.
    Mostly because this is one of the most interesting weight weenie projects I've seen in a long while. Your willingness to chop and drill is inspiring! Also, everybody has seen or done a xc mtb... Your treading Fresh tracks here

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by CuddlyToast View Post
    Mostly because this is one of the most interesting weight weenie projects I've seen in a long while. Your willingness to chop and drill is inspiring! Also, everybody has seen or done a xc mtb... Your treading Fresh tracks here

    Well that's ok then. I'm tryin! Mostly disappointed things are taking so long and wishing I didn't sell my Necromancer till this was done. The hub delay really set me back. But at the same time does give me opportunity to tinker.

    And CudlyToast, I wouldn't do this to any other kind of bike due to this bike being for slooooow moooootion riding in the snow. haha. and I can't ride an indoor trainer after winter riding on one of these. If ya don't have one go try one out. It's frickin cool! And its is an art learning to ride, constantly having to change your balance for float and traction when in the deeper snow.

  97. #97
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    Dash P 3 is on order. This actually looks like a great saddle for snow riding. A little wider and no need for the nose to catch on baggy clothes.

    At a crazy 37g, which Weston at Dash confirmed with me, is suitable to my weight and snow riding, knocks off another 89g from my 126g Teknologika.

    Borealis used 60g sealant in each so I'm droppin mine down from 200g to 120g.

    Get some absoluteBlack ISO Titanium 160mm rotors (maybe 140mm if fit) when available and that's -12g/pr (-30g)

    That leaves 210g -89g -80g -12g= 29 grams ta go. (-18=11g)


    I will start weighing/pics of everything that I do have, this weekend.

  98. #98
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    Wicked, you my find those Ti rotors howl like a Banshee in the snow. I've not personally tried them, but it seems the biggest complaint you hear about Ti rotors is they are screamers.
    Nice weight on the saddle.

  99. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by xc71 View Post
    Wicked, you my find those Ti rotors howl like a Banshee in the snow.
    I can barely seem to hear anything with my hat and helmet on fat riding anyway. Even less when it's windy. Gotta be tried for this application! I will be the guinea and give reviews.

    SiCCCs till they are available.

  100. #100
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    Wicked, If you went for a Uno 80mm stem (remove the graphics ) tuned with Ti bolts it would come in almost at the Extralite weight. I had both a 70 & 80mm that came in at 83 grams. This would save approx. $200.00. Use that money for carbon bolts, In the US they are $20.00 each but if you order direct from Schmolke they are $11.50ish and you are already ordering a seatpost, so no shipping.
    They can be used anywhere an Aluminum bolt is used, so brake & shifter perches, cable ends, limit screws, water bottle cages, stem cap ( they come in countersunk ),chain guide clamps, not familiar with your fork but hopefully there as well, etc,etc.
    On my XC bike I run 3 Ti and 3 Alum bolts. on the rotors. For this snow bike I'd be tempted to run 3 of those high end ProTi bolts and 3 carbon bolts.
    I'm sure your up on bolt tuning, but here's some verified weights.
    All bolts are M5 x 20mm.
    Steel = 4.2 grams.
    Ti = 2.1.
    Alum. = 1.4.
    Carbon = 0.7.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_2492_1.jpg  

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_0370_1.jpg  

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_0372_1.jpg  

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_0373_1.jpg  

    Aiming for sub 20lbs Fatbike build.... Lightest 31.6mm mtb seatposts?-img_0376_1.jpg  


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