2012 Giant XTC 1: how is this thing 30 lbs.?
I love this bike and I would not say that it feels heavy, but I was very surprised when I weighed it (after having it for 6 mo., mind you) on the bathroom scale and it is ~30 lbs. I guess I was expecting about 26#.
It's got a relatively light frame and fork (Al and Reba), correct?. I figured the Giant wheels were super heavy (and rotating weight, etc.), but based on a thread in the Giant forum ( The Giant P-XC/S-XC Wheelset Thread ), the basic Stan's Crest/Arch are not much lighter (~1/2 lb., from memory?). When I look at new bars, stem, seatpost, etc., it seems like I only lose 50 grams with each replacement.
Here are the specs:
XtC 29er 1 (2012) - Bikes | Giant Bicycles | United States
Is this just a case of needing to replace the wheels, bars, stem, seatpost, etc. to lose 2 or 3 lbs. total?
Maybe I'm not a good weight weenie candidate!
Thanks for any comments...
How much weight do you want to take off?
How much are you willing to spend?
Your wheels weigh in at :
950 grams for the front and 1200 grams for the rear
That isn't all that light...
I'm looking for a priority list, I guess. What are the biggest anvils on this bike, compared to a "respectably light" (I don't need the lightest) replacement? What would you replace first, second, etc?
I know that the wheels are not "light," but they don't seem to be made of lead either. 2175g vs. 1805g for Arch/Hopes (and I could lose 160g more going to Crests). I guess that's close to a pound (and 20%).
I would look into grips and saddle, unless you are in love with the ones you have. I spent:
Originally Posted by jdbruner
$10 on grips(dropped 50g)
$40 on saddle (dropped 250g).
$25 Carbon bar (dropped 100g)
had a masterpiece seatpost sitting around(dropped 85g over the fsa carbon post)
$50 went 1x9 with a narrow wide chainring (dropped 400g)
That was $125 for 2 lbs of weight dropped
I also upgraded my wheelset to XT and sold the old mavics, went tubeless and put on some nobby nics. only costed about $100 and dropped 400g off of my old setup.
Just over 26lbs. It feels super light and flickable while riding compared to my buddies more all mountain oriented 31 lb mount vision.
look for deals, and find stuff that you like. you should be able to drop the weight of your bike significantly.
there's a lot of weight to be saved in the wheels. it's worth noting that you already have very light tires. consider tubeless. your cassette is also quite heavy.
stem, post, bars and saddle are likely to be quite heavy too (considering the 30# total), but i don't know their actual weights, being house-brand stuff. i wouldn't be too worried about your shifters, derailleurs, cranks or brakes.
there's also usually some "low hanging fruit" you may find in the form of overly heavy grips, skewers, accessories, cassette pie plate, seatposts that are way too long, steerers that need to be cut, excessive cable/housing length, etc.
My favorite weight-shedder for the money is going to a single chainring. In your case going to 1X10 can save a lot, and do so inexpensively. You also lose some complexity, and can potentiality sell the parts you no longer use.
Last edited by phlegm; 10-28-2013 at 05:44 PM.
Thanks for the suggestions, all!
Make sure you weigh the bike on a proper scale, bathroom scales are not very accurate, you could easily be off by a couple of pounds.
I had the 2011 XTC1 29er.
Wheels aren't total pigs, but they are the best item to upgrade. Tubeless is the cheap way to lose weight. I threw heavy tires on the stock wheels for rocky trails, bad weather, and slow grind days. I picked up a set of Crests matched to Ikons/Aspens for fast days.
Seatpost isn't great. Lots of reports of the single-bolt saddle clamp failing, including mine. Carbon ride smoother anyways.
Got mine under 25 lbs without too much effort and without giving up my front derailleur.
Thanks. A set of Stans are on my radar. I'm right at the Crest weight limit and my riding isn't aggressive, but I certainly don't want a fragile set of wheels. Would Arch's stay true longer?
Got my eye on a new carbon post on CL...
Take the bike to your LBS and ask them if you can weigh your bike. We get people asking if they can weigh their rig and it's not a big deal. My Stumpy Evo Comp weighed 26 pounds on the bathroom scale and 23 pounds on the shop scale.
I have an anthem with the P-XC2 wheels. Running a cross mark on the rear and Conti trail king protection on the front with tubes. I have a set of Stans Crest wheels with RoRos front and rear set up tubeless. On the shop scale, the Stans wheels took 2.5 pounds off the bike.
Thanks for the responses. Riding it over to the LBS is on my list. They won't mind - I bought it there.
Can't wait to get some Stans!
Every part of that bike is heavy including the frame and fork so when choosing upgrades make it things that can be carried over to a future bike since if you get bit by the lightweight bug you'll change out every part including frame and fork eventually. For example NoTubes wheels come with hardware to fit QR and thruaxle framesets.
Keep the Country country.
My priority would be the wheels, a light bike doesn't mater, the centrifugal weight is what matters. my bike is very similar, 27 lb stock aluminum. Only thing changed is the wheels, Crests are light, durable and stiff.
Update: I bought a hang scale and it shows 26.25 lbs. with the SPD-M530 pedals. Should be about 25.25 lbs. w/o pedals (wow, those pedals are heavy - wife bought them...).
lelandjt: I'm certainly not to the level of WW that I would consider XTC Al frame or a Reba fork heavy. Are there really much lighter Al frames, or are you talking carbon?
BTW: My 1996 Raleigh M400 w/ a Rock Shox Indy XC weighs 26.5 lbs. with clip pedals. Not bad! It will soon get a steel fork again.
You got off cheap: losing 2000 grams by changing scales.
You won't regret changing wheels.
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