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  1. #1
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    20.25lb 29er. Looking to lose 1lb!

    Hey guys,

    My bike is one of the cheap chinese Focus Raven knock offs. Pretty light frame at sub-1200g, if I remember correctly. The bike itself rides very well; great handling and acceleration.

    But, like all of you guys, I'm always tinkering and trying to lose some more weight. So, here are a list of the components on my bike. I'm hoping that you guys will make some suggestions as to where I can lose weight without sacrificing the race worthiness of the bike.

    Frame: FR211 29er
    Fork: SID RCT3 29er
    Wheels: ENVE XC rims w/240s and 28 DT Revolutions per wheel
    QRs: DT RWS 9mm (f)/10mm (r)
    Tires: Rocket Ron Evo TL 2.25 (f), Renegade 1.95 Control (r)
    Crank: XO 42/28
    Shifters: XX rear, XO front
    FD: XO
    RD: XX
    Cassette: XX 11-36
    Chain: SRAM 1051
    Brakes: XX
    Brake Rotors: XX
    Stem: Ritchey WCS C260 80 x -25d
    Bars: ENVE XC 700mm
    Grips: Specialized foam
    Seatpost: KCNC ProLite Ti
    Saddle: Old Bontrager stripped of leather and padding, weight unknown
    Seatpost Clamp: chinese carbon, came with bike
    Headset: Neco 1.5"/1.125"
    Top Cap: Slam That Stem
    Cage: Chinese carbon, came with bike
    Pedals: old CB EB SL

    I know that with some bolt tuning, a new seatpost clamp, etc, I can get below 20. But a whole pound, with 2x10 gearing, seems difficult.

    Any suggestions would be very appreciated!
    Last edited by Le Duke; 10-22-2012 at 07:42 AM.
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  2. #2
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    Racing where?!
    I prefer rigid fork, so its about ~1kg less
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  3. #3
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    NE and CO. Rigid would be slower and more painful.
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  4. #4
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    1x10 is the obvious solution. I did it to my bike and dropped 12 oz and am yet to find a climb that makes me regret it.

  5. #5
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    You could knock 1/4 pound off by switching to CB Eggbeater 3Ti (2Ti + Ti spindle) or 11 from the Candy SL's.

    Magura MT-8 brakes would be lighter than the XX.
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  6. #6
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    Save a little going to throughbolts vs the RWS?

  7. #7
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    For courses where the flat risk is low you could try and find some lighter tires.
    "The best pace is suicide pace, and today is a good day to die." Steve Prefontaine

  8. #8
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    Lighter/better crank - Hollowgram or Lightning or go 1xwhatever..
    Do you like your XX brakes?
    You can get crazy light bars, stem and seatpost but it will cost a fortune.
    Weigh your saddle and compare it to the light seats.
    Weigh the cage and compare.
    4ti eggs. You can even get them lighter than stock. There are threads here and on the weightweenies site.
    Cables?
    Not sure if KMC chains are lighter???

  9. #9
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    You could shave a bunch of weight on the wheels. The 240s are porky at best, and you could rebuild those with Tune hubs and Sapim Cxrays. That would shave a considerable amount of weight.
    Check out www.zencyclery.com for fully customizable, handbuilt wheels.

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  10. #10
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    that's already pretty damn light.....wouldn't worry about getting it any lighter....bring less water and it'll weigh less.

  11. #11
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    Most folks overlook it but get lighter shoes. They are part of the bike when you are clipped in although it won't show on the scale. Whenever you can try to loose rotational weight.

  12. #12
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    Is the interface on the S-Works cranks compatible with the SRAM spider?

    Or, compatible with the MRP Bling Ring?

    I could chop a good amount of weight by going down to a single 36t, S-Works cranks and one of the 1*X chainguides.
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  13. #13
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    That last pound would cost a fortune!, but I guess you already knew that.

    Lefty Carbon
    Extralite stem
    Schmolke bar
    Schmolke seatpost
    Smud seatpost collar
    Smud Carbon bottle cages
    Lightning Crank
    Eggbeater 11

    Wheel suggestions already made, I would say Extralite Hypercamber hub, CX Ray spokes would net a nice loss of weight and added strength.
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  14. #14
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    Lefty and stem options are out. Lefty would put my bars up too high (small frame size = ~100mm HT). Same thing with the stems. WCS C260 is the only "high end" stem with the angle I wanted, 25 degrees. Front end is nice and low. And that stem is STIFF, too.

    Bars are a no-go as well. The boutique brands only go out to 660mm. That 700mm bar lets me get a LOT of leverage, and really push the front end in turns.

    I also have some reservations about the hubs suggested. Mixed reviews out there about Tune and Extralite hubs. 240s aren't the lightest, but they're light-ish, and durable enough to be raced on DH bikes. I can take them apart by hand, clean, lube, and reassemble by hand. Similarly, Sapim CX-Rays weigh .06g less per spoke than Revs. That's 3.36g for 56 spokes. Cost/benefit analysis on that one says negative, Ghost Rider.

    Bottle cage, seatpost collar, pedal spindles...definitely doable and make sense. Going 1x10, yeah, definitely looking into that. That will save most of a pound right there.

    I'll be getting a Bontrager 29-0 2.2 to try out shortly as well. Should drop around 100g from the rear wheel. I had the 26" version on my Anthem X 26er and it was amazingly grippy for the amount of tread it had, or lack thereof. And surprisingly, very durable. Sticking with the Rocket Ron on the front. A "real" tire is necessary there.
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  15. #15
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    SRAM 1051 chain? Replace with a proper chain (1091 or similar), replace all bolts with Ti or Al, depending on application, and call it done. At some point you'll be compromising durability and /or performance.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post

    Bars are a no-go as well. The boutique brands only go out to 660mm. That 700mm bar lets me get a LOT of leverage, and really push the front end in turns.

    .
    Schmolke will custom make you a bar to whatever length you want.

    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post

    I also have some reservations about the hubs suggested. Mixed reviews out there about Tune and Extralite hubs. 240s aren't the lightest, but they're light-ish, and durable enough to be raced on DH bikes.
    .
    Extralite uses internals from DT Swiss if that makes you feel better.

    On the S-Works cranks, you can use an XX spider. You could also have a spiderless ring made to whatever size you want if you want to go 1X.
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by DavidR1 View Post
    On the S-Works cranks, you can use an XX spider. You could also have a spiderless ring made to whatever size you want if you want to go 1X.
    Could I use a Bling Ring on the S-Works cranks?

    Also, are the Specialized WC racers running a 36t, 5 arm 110mm Rotor chainring? I've been wanting to try them for a while, but they don't make an "MTB" ring suitable for 1x10.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Lefty and stem options are out. Lefty would put my bars up too high (small frame size = ~100mm HT). Same thing with the stems. WCS C260 is the only "high end" stem with the angle I wanted, 25 degrees. Front end is nice and low. And that stem is STIFF, too.

    Bars are a no-go as well. The boutique brands only go out to 660mm. That 700mm bar lets me get a LOT of leverage, and really push the front end in turns.

    I also have some reservations about the hubs suggested. Mixed reviews out there about Tune and Extralite hubs. 240s aren't the lightest, but they're light-ish, and durable enough to be raced on DH bikes. I can take them apart by hand, clean, lube, and reassemble by hand. Similarly, Sapim CX-Rays weigh .06g less per spoke than Revs. That's 3.36g for 56 spokes. Cost/benefit analysis on that one says negative, Ghost Rider.

    Bottle cage, seatpost collar, pedal spindles...definitely doable and make sense. Going 1x10, yeah, definitely looking into that. That will save most of a pound right there.

    I'll be getting a Bontrager 29-0 2.2 to try out shortly as well. Should drop around 100g from the rear wheel. I had the 26" version on my Anthem X 26er and it was amazingly grippy for the amount of tread it had, or lack thereof. And surprisingly, very durable. Sticking with the Rocket Ron on the front. A "real" tire is necessary there.
    In regards to Tune & Extralite hubs getting bad reviews, I'm pretty sure that was the older Tune hubs. I have 14 months on the new Tune Prince/Princess hubs with no issues and have not heard of anyone else having problems. I have another wheelset that is using Extralite hubs & again no issues. Very easy to service - once the cassette is removed all you need is two 5mm allen wrenchs. I researched the Extralite hubs for over a year before pulling the trigger on them and couldn't find one neg. review on them.Do you have any links I could check out on the Extralite hubs reviews.
    Schmolke will make any length bar you want. These are 685mm wide & 15mm rise.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 20.25lb 29er. Looking to lose 1lb!-img_0618_1.jpg  

    20.25lb 29er. Looking to lose 1lb!-img_0595_1.jpg  


  19. #19
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    Scrub rotors would save 3-4 oz. Your bike is very light.

  20. #20
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    X10-sl chain
    ti spindles for your pedals
    weigh your saddle. I bet it's heavier than you think. Try a Speed Needle.
    Woodman ti seatpost clamp will probably save ~20g. Those chinese carbon clamps are pretty heavy.
    Give 1x10 a try. with an 11-36 you might really enjoy it. Mine is 11-34 and I rarely feel like I need more gears.
    Ashima rotors are pretty cheap ($12 at aawyeah.com) and would save about 20g over XX. Even more if you could go with a 140mm rear.


    Other than that I'd say you've maxed it out without spending really big bucks. Good luck!

  21. #21
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    the headset is not light. You could save weight there, but I agree with everyone else, thats already light!

    Cool to see more chinese carbon bikes hitting the lower weights.

    +1 on ashima rotors like said above. Really light. ~7-8bux on amazon

  22. #22
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    My hubs are CL. Will the rotor + adapter weigh less than XX rotors?
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Could I use a Bling Ring on the S-Works cranks?

    Also, are the Specialized WC racers running a 36t, 5 arm 110mm Rotor chainring? I've been wanting to try them for a while, but they don't make an "MTB" ring suitable for 1x10.
    I went through this same dilemma. Get the S-Works triple chainring spider. It has a 104 bcd and can run any size ring you want. I considered the 110/5bolt but it wasn't recommended by the techs @ Spesh.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by redmr2_man View Post
    the headset is not light. You could save weight there, but I agree with everyone else, thats already light!

    Cool to see more chinese carbon bikes hitting the lower weights.

    +1 on ashima rotors like said above. Really light. ~7-8bux on amazon
    Any suggestions on a headset?

    I mean, they're literally just two bearings. I can't imagine bearings being significant sources of weight loss, but I could be wrong.

    Update: Ordering Origin 8 chainguide, MRP 36t Bling Ring, new rear tire (Bontrager 29-0 2.2), seat clamp.
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post

    Update: Ordering Origin 8 chainguide, MRP 36t Bling Ring, new rear tire (Bontrager 29-0 2.2), seat clamp.
    Outside of the tire, and going 1x I can't see a lot of things that provide that happy combination of relative affordability, weight savings and reliability. The only things I (personally) would consider would be lighter rotors, KMC x10sl chain, lighter pedals and limited bolt tuning. The saving isn't huge, but as there is no real loss of reliability they could be worthwhile.
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  26. #26
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    rigid fork

  27. #27
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    get rid of the gears...

  28. #28
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    Shoes are a great place to lose weight, it's what I did, but obviously one wouldn't go this route at expense of comfort or traction.

  29. #29
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    Michael Rasmussen (and a few other guys) have used modified road shoes for racing.

    but I wouldn't recommend that.

  30. #30
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    This summer a local racer used unmodified road shoes and road pedals, and he was unpleasantly surprised to find out the weekly mtb practice race was not the usual smooth short-track type course. It was full of hike-a-bike and nasty sections. He crashed alllll night long.

    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Michael Rasmussen (and a few other guys) have used modified road shoes for racing.

    but I wouldn't recommend that.

  31. #31
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    My Mavic Fury shoes are pretty darn light, as MTB shoes go.
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  32. #32
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    Go SS and rigid and you'll drop multiple pounds.
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  33. #33
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    SS and rigid are not really practical for going fast around here.

    There's a reason you see very few pro racers on either of those, let alone both.
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  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    X10-sl chain
    ti spindles for your pedals
    weigh your saddle. I bet it's heavier than you think. Try a Speed Needle.
    Woodman ti seatpost clamp will probably save ~20g. Those chinese carbon clamps are pretty heavy.
    Give 1x10 a try. with an 11-36 you might really enjoy it. Mine is 11-34 and I rarely feel like I need more gears.
    Ashima rotors are pretty cheap ($12 at aawyeah.com) and would save about 20g over XX. Even more if you could go with a 140mm rear.


    Other than that I'd say you've maxed it out without spending really big bucks. Good luck!
    This is about the exact same thing I was about to type up. A rational response and all these are pretty cheap.

    While i'm not in the rockies, I've been racing 1x for years and for the courses that I'm on, I rarely long for a big ring and if I needed a granny gear, I'd be faster off the bike. I'm set up with 33 x 12-26 road cassette. If you're running an 11-36, I doubt that you actually need those two chainrings. Pick up a "middle" ring and see what it feels like on the trails. I bet you'll be fine.

  35. #35
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    Frame: FR211 29er
    Fork: SID RCT3 29er
    Wheels: ENVE XC rims w/240s and 28 DT Revolutions per wheel
    QRs: DT RWS 9mm (f)/10mm (r) Extralite Aliens 3
    Tires: Rocket Ron Evo TL 2.25 (f), Renegade 1.95 Control (r)
    Crank: XO 42/28 Race Face Next SL 2x10
    Shifters: XX rear, XO front
    FD: XO
    RD: XX
    Cassette: XX 11-36
    Chain: SRAM 1051 KMC X10SL
    Brakes: XX
    Brake Rotors: XX
    Stem: Ritchey WCS C260 80 x -25d
    Bars: ENVE XC 700mm
    Grips: Specialized foam
    Seatpost: KCNC ProLite Ti
    Saddle: Old Bontrager stripped of leather and padding Yours is probably on the heavy side, but finding the right saddle is a matter of trial and error.
    Seatpost Clamp: chinese carbon, came with bike
    Headset: Neco 1.5"/1.125"
    Top Cap: Slam That Stem
    Cage: Chinese carbon, came with bike
    Pedals: old CB EB SL CB Eggbeater 2 + Ti spindles

    Note: I haven't heard of a single issue with the Extralite HyperHubs. They're very expensive though and you already have a great wheelset.

  36. #36
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    Carbon Saddle and KMC x10sl chain?

  37. #37
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    Leave well enough alone, I think some stated the you will sacrifice durability and reliability to save a pound. That one pound will not be cheap.

  38. #38
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    Weight savings with no sacrifice in durability...

    Crank:

    Race Face next SL if standard BB.
    Cannondale Hollowgram if BB30.

    Spokes:

    DT Revolutions, DT Aerolites, or Sapim CX Rays.

    Pedals:

    EggBeater 4ti

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Lefty and stem options are out. Lefty would put my bars up too high (small frame size = ~100mm HT). Same thing with the stems.
    Run a carbon Lefty w/ a negative rise stem.
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  40. #40
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    I'm running a -25 degree Ritchey WCS C260 stem right now, as is.

    HOWEVER....the new Syntace FlatForce stem has a stack height of only 22mm.

    I know people don't see it done (I've seen it twice, ever) often, but you can run the stem UNDER a lefty top clamp, taking the place of spacers. I might consider using the FlatForce in conjunction with a Lefty, in time.
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  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I'm running a -25 degree Ritchey WCS C260 stem right now, as is.

    HOWEVER....the new Syntace FlatForce stem has a stack height of only 22mm.

    I know people don't see it done (I've seen it twice, ever) often, but you can run the stem UNDER a lefty top clamp, taking the place of spacers. I might consider using the FlatForce in conjunction with a Lefty, in time.
    -25 degree? Where can we buy?

  42. #42
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    If you're going to go through with the idea of buying a Lefty fork you might as well scrap the frame/entire bike and start all over with a Flash. Your frame is "heavy" compared to a Flash, Scott or the new Trek.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrul View Post
    -25 degree? Where can we buy?
    Ritchey WCS C260 Vorbau 25 31,8 mm Wet Black
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  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    If you're going to go through with the idea of buying a Lefty fork you might as well scrap the frame/entire bike and start all over with a Flash. Your frame is "heavy" compared to a Flash, Scott or the new Trek.
    Can't ride a Cannondale. 134mm HT plus clamp thickness = HUGE headtube, especially on a 29er. And, I'm on a small. They don't make a Flash carbon in small.

    Trek is out, too. Worked for a Trek dealer between jobs, and I've done enough warranty claims on their carbon frames that I don't want to go that route. I love carbon fiber bikes, but taking 200-300g off of their already frail frames was not the best route, in my opinion.

    The only frame I'd buy is a Scott, or maybe a Niner Air 9 RDO.
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  45. #45
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    Hmmm, any thought on Scott's 650B Nino bike? Just curious since you're my size or smaller.
    The RDO isn't light. I bet a small is 1200g, give or take a couple. They're on sale online everywhere right now too, just in case you missed it.

  46. #46
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    So how much does the bike weigh with the new mods? What all did you do to it?
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

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