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  1. #26
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    rigid fork

  2. #27
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    get rid of the gears...

  3. #28
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    Shoes are a great place to lose weight, it's what I did, but obviously one wouldn't go this route at expense of comfort or traction.

  4. #29
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    Michael Rasmussen (and a few other guys) have used modified road shoes for racing.

    but I wouldn't recommend that.

  5. #30
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    This summer a local racer used unmodified road shoes and road pedals, and he was unpleasantly surprised to find out the weekly mtb practice race was not the usual smooth short-track type course. It was full of hike-a-bike and nasty sections. He crashed alllll night long.

    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Michael Rasmussen (and a few other guys) have used modified road shoes for racing.

    but I wouldn't recommend that.

  6. #31
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    My Mavic Fury shoes are pretty darn light, as MTB shoes go.

  7. #32
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    Go SS and rigid and you'll drop multiple pounds.
    MCH Co-Captain

  8. #33
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    SS and rigid are not really practical for going fast around here.

    There's a reason you see very few pro racers on either of those, let alone both.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2002maniac View Post
    X10-sl chain
    ti spindles for your pedals
    weigh your saddle. I bet it's heavier than you think. Try a Speed Needle.
    Woodman ti seatpost clamp will probably save ~20g. Those chinese carbon clamps are pretty heavy.
    Give 1x10 a try. with an 11-36 you might really enjoy it. Mine is 11-34 and I rarely feel like I need more gears.
    Ashima rotors are pretty cheap ($12 at aawyeah.com) and would save about 20g over XX. Even more if you could go with a 140mm rear.


    Other than that I'd say you've maxed it out without spending really big bucks. Good luck!
    This is about the exact same thing I was about to type up. A rational response and all these are pretty cheap.

    While i'm not in the rockies, I've been racing 1x for years and for the courses that I'm on, I rarely long for a big ring and if I needed a granny gear, I'd be faster off the bike. I'm set up with 33 x 12-26 road cassette. If you're running an 11-36, I doubt that you actually need those two chainrings. Pick up a "middle" ring and see what it feels like on the trails. I bet you'll be fine.

  10. #35
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    Frame: FR211 29er
    Fork: SID RCT3 29er
    Wheels: ENVE XC rims w/240s and 28 DT Revolutions per wheel
    QRs: DT RWS 9mm (f)/10mm (r) Extralite Aliens 3
    Tires: Rocket Ron Evo TL 2.25 (f), Renegade 1.95 Control (r)
    Crank: XO 42/28 Race Face Next SL 2x10
    Shifters: XX rear, XO front
    FD: XO
    RD: XX
    Cassette: XX 11-36
    Chain: SRAM 1051 KMC X10SL
    Brakes: XX
    Brake Rotors: XX
    Stem: Ritchey WCS C260 80 x -25d
    Bars: ENVE XC 700mm
    Grips: Specialized foam
    Seatpost: KCNC ProLite Ti
    Saddle: Old Bontrager stripped of leather and padding Yours is probably on the heavy side, but finding the right saddle is a matter of trial and error.
    Seatpost Clamp: chinese carbon, came with bike
    Headset: Neco 1.5"/1.125"
    Top Cap: Slam That Stem
    Cage: Chinese carbon, came with bike
    Pedals: old CB EB SL CB Eggbeater 2 + Ti spindles

    Note: I haven't heard of a single issue with the Extralite HyperHubs. They're very expensive though and you already have a great wheelset.

  11. #36
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    Carbon Saddle and KMC x10sl chain?

  12. #37
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    Leave well enough alone, I think some stated the you will sacrifice durability and reliability to save a pound. That one pound will not be cheap.

  13. #38
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    Weight savings with no sacrifice in durability...

    Crank:

    Race Face next SL if standard BB.
    Cannondale Hollowgram if BB30.

    Spokes:

    DT Revolutions, DT Aerolites, or Sapim CX Rays.

    Pedals:

    EggBeater 4ti
    Race Reports, PreRide Reports, and General Rambling:

    www.roostersbikersedge.com
    http://www.ENVEcomposites.com

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    Lefty and stem options are out. Lefty would put my bars up too high (small frame size = ~100mm HT). Same thing with the stems.
    Run a carbon Lefty w/ a negative rise stem.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  15. #40
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    I'm running a -25 degree Ritchey WCS C260 stem right now, as is.

    HOWEVER....the new Syntace FlatForce stem has a stack height of only 22mm.

    I know people don't see it done (I've seen it twice, ever) often, but you can run the stem UNDER a lefty top clamp, taking the place of spacers. I might consider using the FlatForce in conjunction with a Lefty, in time.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Le Duke View Post
    I'm running a -25 degree Ritchey WCS C260 stem right now, as is.

    HOWEVER....the new Syntace FlatForce stem has a stack height of only 22mm.

    I know people don't see it done (I've seen it twice, ever) often, but you can run the stem UNDER a lefty top clamp, taking the place of spacers. I might consider using the FlatForce in conjunction with a Lefty, in time.
    -25 degree? Where can we buy?

  17. #42
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    If you're going to go through with the idea of buying a Lefty fork you might as well scrap the frame/entire bike and start all over with a Flash. Your frame is "heavy" compared to a Flash, Scott or the new Trek.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrul View Post
    -25 degree? Where can we buy?
    Ritchey WCS C260 Vorbau 25 31,8 mm Wet Black

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    If you're going to go through with the idea of buying a Lefty fork you might as well scrap the frame/entire bike and start all over with a Flash. Your frame is "heavy" compared to a Flash, Scott or the new Trek.
    Can't ride a Cannondale. 134mm HT plus clamp thickness = HUGE headtube, especially on a 29er. And, I'm on a small. They don't make a Flash carbon in small.

    Trek is out, too. Worked for a Trek dealer between jobs, and I've done enough warranty claims on their carbon frames that I don't want to go that route. I love carbon fiber bikes, but taking 200-300g off of their already frail frames was not the best route, in my opinion.

    The only frame I'd buy is a Scott, or maybe a Niner Air 9 RDO.

  20. #45
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    Hmmm, any thought on Scott's 650B Nino bike? Just curious since you're my size or smaller.
    The RDO isn't light. I bet a small is 1200g, give or take a couple. They're on sale online everywhere right now too, just in case you missed it.

  21. #46
    Rod
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    So how much does the bike weigh with the new mods? What all did you do to it?
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

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