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  1. #1
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    $900 to ligthen Epic 29er

    2013 Carbon comp 29er Large Current weight: 26.48 after going tubeless, adding water bottle cage and Garmin mount.

    Plan:
    Crankbrothers Cobalt 11 flat bar 680mm $70 (already purchased)
    Loaded Xlite 90mm stem $65
    ESI Silicone Grips: $15
    Stans ZTR Crest 29er with stans hubs $540
    PG-1070 cassette $80
    Most likely change tires from fasttracks 2.0 to something a little wider so I'll be adding weight back. $100

    Does this sound good or is there something else I should look at changing for my money? Main goals are longer endurance races so it needs to be durable and light.


    Current specs:
    FACT 9m carbon front triangle, 29 inch geometry, FACT IS construction, gussetless TT (S/M), M5 aluminum chainstays & seatstays, tapered HT, carbon PF30 BB, 142mm dropouts, sealed cartridge bearing pivots, replaceable derailleur hanger, 100mm travel
    Fork RockShox Reba RL 29, Solo air spring, alloy tapered crown/steerer, w/Lockout and rebound adj., QR, 100mm travel
    Rear Shock FOX/Specialized remote Mini-Brain w/ AUTOSAG, inertia valve, Brain Fade adjust, 187x47mm
    Shifters Shimano SLX 10-speed, trigger
    Front Derailleur SRAM X7, 10-speed, S3 direct mount for DMD, bottom pull
    Rear Derailleur Shimano XT Shadow Plus, 10-speed, SGS long cage
    Brakes Magura MTS, hydralic disc, Hi Friction pad, alloy caliper, Storm SL rotor, 160mm rotor
    Brake Levers Magura MTS, alloy master cyclinder/lever blade, hollow lever pivot, reach adj.
    Cranks Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed XC double, 38/24, PF30 spindle, S: 170mm, Others: 175mm
    Cassette SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36
    Bottom Bracket SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearing, sealed cartridge
    Chain KMC X10, nickel plate, reusable Missing Link
    Hubs (f) Specialized Hi Lo disc, OS28 end caps, sealed cartridge bearing, QR, 32h (r) New Specialized Hi Lo disc 142+, 4x-sealed cartridge bearing, 12mm thru-axle, 32h
    Spokes DT Swiss Industry, stainless, 14g
    Rims Roval 29, alloy disc, 26mm wide, 32h
    Tires (f) S-Works Fast Trak, 2Bliss Ready, 120 TPI, aramid bead, 29x2.0 inch (r) Specialized Fast Trak Control, 2Bliss Ready, 60 TPI, aramid bead, 29x2.0 inch
    Pedals Resin Test Ride Pedals with toe clips, CEN std.
    Headset 1-1/8 and 1-1/2 inch threadless, Campy style upper with 1-1/2 inch lower, cartridge bearings
    Stem Specialized XC, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt, 31.8mm clamp, 6-degree rise, S: 75mm, M: 90mm, L: 105mm, XL: 105mm
    Handlebars Specialized XC flat, 2014 butted alloy, 680mm wide, 8-degree backsweep, 31.8mm
    Grips Specialized Sip Grip, half-waffle aramid-infused, S/M: Regular, Others: XL thickness
    Saddle Body Geometry Phenom Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm
    Seat Post Specialized 2014 butted alloy, single bolt setback, 30.9mm, 400mm
    Seat Binder Specialized 7050 hard anodized alloy, 36.9mm, single bolt

  2. #2
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    good plan. I would suggest replacing the seat post as well.
    I saved over 100g switching from the stock seat post to the KCNC scandium seatpost. You should be able to do so for around $100.
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper 29er FSR

  3. #3
    Custom Wheelbuilder
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    You could get a lighter build by not going with a stock Stans wheelset. You could lace the Crest rims to Tune hubs and have a much lighter wheelset.
    Check out www.zencyclery.com for fully customizable, handbuilt wheels.

    www.facebook.com/zencyclerywheels

  4. #4
    RIDE...
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    Use a romin saddle, very ligth also; use Foam grips, a thopmson seat post is very ligth

  5. #5
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    You can find ZTR Crests for $399 all day long if you shop carefully. That'll save you $100 right there.

    Spend that $100 on a Thomson Masterpiece seat post and save a lot of grams right there.

  6. #6
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    Where have you seen the ZTR's for $399?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerboyj17 View Post
    Where have you seen the ZTR's for $399?
    MTBR classifieds, eBay, several of the online bike companies. That's what I paid and I am talking about NIB, not used.

  8. #8
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    The Thomson Masterpiece seatpost is great. However
    if you need a 400mm post the Masterpiece doesn't come
    in that length. Be very carefull running a " too short post".

  9. #9
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    Change the wheels, adjust the cockpit to fit you and change tires to match your ridIng style. Other then that just ride the bike like it is.
    CyclingCentralVa.org

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Kuhl View Post
    The Thomson Masterpiece seatpost is great. However
    if you need a 400mm post the Masterpiece doesn't come
    in that length. Be very carefull running a " too short post".
    Great point. However, I ran a Masterpiece in my 2009 Epic alloy and I was actually able to cut some length off of it and still have it more than long enough to go below the "safe insertion depth".

  11. #11
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    Sweet build

  12. #12
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    Went with stock stans hubs and wheels since I didn't have time to get anything else setup before a big race and put on a specialized 2.2 captain front tire . Crank brothers sent me the wrong bar so I'm still waiting on it and I decided to reuse the stock PG-1050 cassette since it was almost new. So with the below changes I've got it down to 25.68lbs

    SRAM 1091 chain
    Loaded Xlite 90mm stem
    ESI Silicone Grips
    Stans ZTR Crest 29er with stans hubs

    Thanks for the advice, I'll probably leave it the way it is until the start of the next race season and then start looking at new seatpost and cranks to shave a little more off.

  13. #13
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    Nice.

    For me (Spec Camber Elite 29) the biggest bang for the buck items were the wheels, tires, and cassette. Handlebar, seatpost, and pedals were good savings too. After that the cost / gram ratio gets pretty expensive. I've done more but FWIW if I could go back and do it all over again that's where I'd stop.

  14. #14
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    Wheels > everything else

  15. #15
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    I'm not trying to threadjack but I would have created a pretty much identical thread. I just bought a 2013 Epic Carbon Comp with 2013 Roval SL wheels. I am running 2.25 Racing Ralphs w/ SS and I don't think I would want to go to a lighter tire as I am really happy with these. I upgraded the bars to Easton EC70 carbon bars and I am going to put on Xpedo pedals at 274 grams and ESI chunkies.

    So it looks like the cheapest way to lose weight would be the cassette and seatpost for right now? And maybe upgrade the cranks in a year or so?

  16. #16
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    Cassette most likely, depending of course on what you have now. Seems even the real nice bikes come with heavy cassettes. XTR within the Shimano range and XG 999 or 1099 for SRAM would be light weight options.

    Seatpost, sure. Also consider titanium spindles if they exist for those pedals.

    Beyond that I've found that you get exponentially higher dollar amounts for diminishing returns. Even the seatpost and spindles may not be worth it. Everything of course can be made lighter, how much do you want to pay...??? Crank arms, stem, seat, etc. Your dollar / grams saved ratio starts to hurt quickly.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by tracerbullet View Post
    Seems even the real nice bikes come with heavy cassettes.
    Have some empathy for bike manufacturers... If they spec something light, every third customer will complain online about how the teeth wore out too quickly after they ran it for a month without cleaning off the grit and they shifted under extreme loads. Better for them to cut a few dollars and spec something reasonable, then let customers or bike shops swap it out at their own responsibility.

  18. #18
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    Pretty sure a Fox fork is lighter than the Reba.

    Thomson Masterpiece seatpost clamp will shed some if you have the QR
    There....Are... Four...Lights!

  19. #19
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    The next place that saving weight would make the biggest change is in the cassette but your going to want to go with XX/XTR level to make it worth your time. I just couldn't see getting rid of a brand new cassette so I'm going to wait until its time to get rid of the stock one. The seatpost weighs about 277g so its not a paper weight but I do hate the single bolt design so I'll most likely look to replace it just because of that.

    I haven't weighed the cranks but just based on the looks you can probably make a pretty good saving on those. I'm thinking about going with some S-works cranks next year when I feel like dropping cash on new parts.

    Quote Originally Posted by S_Trek View Post
    Pretty sure a Fox fork is lighter than the Reba.

    Thomson Masterpiece seatpost clamp will shed some if you have the QR
    At most you could save .2lbs of weight going to a fox float fork but it wouldn't be a very cost effective way of saving weight. The Epics already come with a non QR seatpost clamp so I doubt you can save much on that.

  20. #20
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    yea, it looks like the 1080 cassette off of ebay will be the best bang for the buck. Looking at the numbers it looks like the only thing left might be to upgrade the seatpost before things start getting crazy expensive with little return. Whenever I get some free time that I'm not riding I plan to some of it down and weigh all the individual parts.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan4jeepin View Post
    At most you could save .2lbs of weight going to a fox float fork but it wouldn't be a very cost effective way of saving weight. The Epics already come with a non QR seatpost clamp so I doubt you can save much on that.
    Agreed
    There....Are... Four...Lights!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by dan4jeepin View Post
    The next place that saving weight would make the biggest change is in the cassette but your going to want to go with XX/XTR level to make it worth your time. I just couldn't see getting rid of a brand new cassette so I'm going to wait until its time to get rid of the stock one. The seatpost weighs about 277g so its not a paper weight but I do hate the single bolt design so I'll most likely look to replace it just because of that.

    I haven't weighed the cranks but just based on the looks you can probably make a pretty good saving on those. I'm thinking about going with some S-works cranks next year when I feel like dropping cash on new parts.



    At most you could save .2lbs of weight going to a fox float fork but it wouldn't be a very cost effective way of saving weight. The Epics already come with a non QR seatpost clamp so I doubt you can save much on that.
    If you go with s-works crank you wil save 250 g and if you go with sram xo you will save 125 g (actual weights) But the s-works is stiffer than the xo. I have had both on epic s-works 29, right now i have the s-works and the X0 on my training bike. i will see if i can weight my standard crank (the same as on your bike right now) one of the next days

  23. #23
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    That cassette you have is heavy.. That's a biggy..

  24. #24
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    I changed the front skewer on my s-works for one of these:

    MT ZOOM QR Ti FRONT Skewer 21g - £14.99 | XC Racer Shop

    Marginal gain but the standard one looks cheap so bit of bling as well as weight saving.

  25. #25
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    I had a set of crest wheels on my 2012 epic carbon. I built up a set of the carbon light-bicycle rims to hope pro 2 hubs and like them much more. Wider and stiffer rim, at the same weight. If you can swing the carbon rims (not much more than the stans) I would certainly go that route.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhaskell View Post
    I had a set of crest wheels on my 2012 epic carbon. I built up a set of the carbon light-bicycle rims to hope pro 2 hubs and like them much more. Wider and stiffer rim, at the same weight. If you can swing the carbon rims (not much more than the stans) I would certainly go that route.
    Good to know.

    It looks like the light-bicycle rims are much more expensive when comparing just the rim ($158/165 vs $88/90).

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by tahoeyeti View Post
    Good to know.

    It looks like the light-bicycle rims are much more expensive when comparing just the rim ($158/165 vs $88/90).
    Its all relative I guess. The wheels (rims) are the most important part of a fast 29er build, an extra 60 or 70 bucks on a 3-4k bike is not much, when the difference is substantial. Try spending that amount on a seat post or stem and see if you can feel any difference

  28. #28
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    I weighed a few of the parts last night.
    Seatpost Collar = 17 grams
    Saddle = 273 grams (274 claimed on specialized site)
    Seatpost = 268 grams (277 claimed on specialized site)

    I upgraded to a ritchey superlogic post last night that came in at 170 grams.

    The only things I am sort of planning on doing in the near or not so near future are maybe the Syntace X12 axle for a 30 gram drop and the 1080 cassette for a 156 gram drop. The zoom Ti skewer looks like it will give me a 30 gram drop as well. So maybe that will come in the future as well.

    On paper (I haven't actually weighed the bike since I picked it up), the bike is under 25 pounds with pedals and bottle cage as it sits and I am happy with that.

    I was going to go the route of the LB carbon rims and hope hubs with this build, but I got a reduced price on the carbon SL's, comped for the stock wheels, and credit that I could apply to the SL wheels. In the end it still cost me more to go with the SL's, but the 240 hubs are pretty sweet and I liked the idea of the lifetime warranty.

  29. #29
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    Finally got around to swapping out my bars:

    Stock bars: 228g
    Cranks brother 680mm flat bar: 139g
    Stock grips: 99g
    ESI grips: 59g

    Ready for more racing 25.6lbs size Large:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 0 to ligthen Epic 29er-img_0234.jpg  


  30. #30
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    How do you like the green ESI grips with that bike? I ordered some, but didn't get them because they were backordered. I then ordered from another place and went with black because I was worried that the green grips would be close, but too far from the green/yellow and look off. I figured, you can't go wrong with black

  31. #31
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    I ended up with the green grips only cause that's all my LBS had but they actually look nice and match the green on the frame. Only complaint is they start to look dirty after a few rides.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorWPB View Post
    good plan. I would suggest replacing the seat post as well.
    I saved over 100g switching from the stock seat post to the KCNC scandium seatpost. You should be able to do so for around $100.
    I was planning on getting the same kcnc post for my epic until I realized epics come with set back posts, but kcnc only do zero offset. I m guessing that'l messl with the geo a bit? Thoughts?

  33. #33
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    I bought a new "used" Ritchey superlogic 30.9 400mm setback post on the classifieds here and it has a little bit more setback (25mm setback) than the stock seatpost. Trying to find light, 30.9, 400mm, and setback wasn't the easiest.

  34. #34
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    Carbon rims are pricey!

  35. #35
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    Have you looked into getting tubeless s works renegades? My s works stumpjumper had the renegades but I saved about 0.4 pounds just switching to tubeless (40 bucks). You could also cut down your bar to save some weight.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    I bought a new "used" Ritchey superlogic 30.9 400mm setback post on the classifieds here and it has a little bit more setback (25mm setback) than the stock seatpost. Trying to find light, 30.9, 400mm, and setback wasn't the easiest.
    Did you weigh that post? Trying to find a post in 31.6x400mm with setback that will lose some weight from the Thomson Elite I'm running right now (242g).
    BMC FS01 29 X0
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  37. #37
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    Yea, it was 169 grams on my scale and it replaced the 268 stock post.

  38. #38
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    Well my BB is trashed due to riding in a couple super muddy races so I figure its a good excuse to look at upgrading the cranks to something lighter. Current thoughts are S-works cranks with the XX spider and rings. Anything else I should look at that would get me more for my money?

    Also can anyone recommend a 30.9 X 400m 20mm setback seat post that is light? Seem like a hard size to find.
    Last edited by dan4jeepin; 03-07-2013 at 09:39 AM.

  39. #39
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    I had a lot of trouble finding a comparable post to the stock one. Like I said in an earlier post. I went with a Ritchey Superlogic 30.9 400mm with 25mm setback and it came in at 169 grams. I bought a new one off of a guy in the classifieds here. It looks like they are about $215 retail.

    The clamping system with the post was a real pain getting everything put together by myself. I really could have used an extra pair of hands to hold everything. However, I torqued everything down to the recommendations of the post and the frame and after some initial adjustments have not had to touch it since and everything has stayed in place without any slippage. I used carbon grease for install.

    For cranks, I am going with XX1 cranks. They seem like the cheapest entry into carbon cranks that I could find at $325. Dropping the FD, shifter/cables, and switching cranks has me losing 556 grams on paper. There are a lot of reports of not needing a chain retention device with using the XX1 chainring and a RD with a clutch which the XT has. I have yet to have the time to put the cranks on and ride it. Maybe tonight!

    As far as I know, the cranks don't come with a bottom bracket, so you will likely have to purchase that separately anyways.

    I will also be switching out my stem to a Syntace F109 and rear thru axle to a Syntace. After all of the upgrades that I will have done the only items that will be tanks on my bike are the cassette and chain. I'll just replace those as they wear out or go full XX1.

  40. #40
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    After a month of issues I finally got my S-works crank and XX spider installed. New weight 24.8 lbs

  41. #41
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    Thats pretty dang light for a large 29er. I am Jelly

  42. #42
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    Re: $900 to ligthen Epic 29er

    100gr grips on such a high end bike

  43. #43
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    I got mine down to 24.25 pounds with pedals on my epic carbon comp mods include...

    Lost weight
    Roval Control SL wheels
    ESI chunkies
    Easton EC70 680mm handlebars
    Ritchey superlogic seatpost
    Syntace F109 stem
    XX1 cranks (dropped FD, front shifter and cabling)
    Fizik Tundra w/ carbon rails
    Syntace x12 thru axle

    Gained weight
    Xpedo pedals (not the ti/ti ones)
    Racing Ralphs 29x2.25 with snake skin
    I went with a 15mm to 9mm thru axle conversion and also have a 9mm thru axle while using my 15mm endcaps

    Like I said before the only thing that is a pig is the cassette and I am just waiting to wear it out and go to a 1080 or go to a full XX1 system. So far I haven't had any complaints or problems with my 1x10 other than one dropped chain.

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