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  1. #1
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    SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options

    30-42 just isn't low enough for some of the steep climbs around here. I assume several have gone through this already Best option for cost and reliability? Go....

  2. #2
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    Not much you can do with the 1150. I have 1195 with the 44t wolf tooth and that's been great bailout gear. I think if I was going to do a cassette replacement I would look at e13. Otherwise you could get a shimano freehub and slap a shimano 11-46 cassette on.

    Cheapest option is probably going 28t on your chainring...


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  3. #3
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    TRS has a cassette that is 9-44. You can run a 28 up front and still have the same top end as the 30 with the 10-42, and you still have even more granny with the 28/44.

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    There is indeed no honor in grinding. I have XX1 Eagle w/30T chain ring on a 29er. No shame.

    26T or 28T on a 1x11 is bound to leave a person spun out but I'll take that over having to grind.

    I'll throw out the GX Eagle SRAM just announced/released: https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/f...kych1dfel21waa

  5. #5
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    If you feel like changing out your entire drivetrain, XT with the 11-46 works great. You can get the whole setup (cassette, shifter, crankset/bb, chain, rear der) for around $350. I ran it for about 9 months with no issues.

    I'd still be using it if my new(ish) bike hadn't come with an eagle build kit. Eagle's been fine and all, but the prospect of spending 2/3 of the *total* cost of my old XT drivetrain if I shred my derailleur is pretty depressing...

  6. #6
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    If you want really low, I love my raceface 24t NW ring with my 11-36 cassette. Yeah I can spin out of the road, but that is rare since most of my riding is tight and can get steep.

  7. #7
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    First, 1 x is a fraud perpetuated on cycling consumers by a brand that couldn't make a working front shifter. At least their rear shifting is finally functional, if not smooth as shimano.

    I swapped a 10-42 for an XT 11-42, then added a wolftooth 49 tooth cog (purchased just prior to 12 spd GX being announced... or I might have spent a little more and gone that route). Wolftooth says GX will take up to a 49 tooth cog, but it's definitely a bit of a hack and doesn't shift as well as the 100% SRAM drivetrain. Now I have a low gear back again, but get spun out at pretty low speed.
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  8. #8
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    As mentioned, a smaller chainring is probably the only real cheap option, though of course then you lose the top end. Running a 28-42 here at the moment and that gets me up most things. Anything steeper than that and I'd be walking anyway probably.

    Just installed the Shimano XT 11-46 set up on my friend's bike last week, easy peasy and a pretty good deal online right now. I'm sure you could get the cassette for cheap too, don't know how well that would mate with the rest of the GX stuff though.
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  9. #9
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    Easiest option is a smaller ring up front, trading off top end.

    If you can afford SRAM Eagle, it's a pretty sweet 1x setup, good shifting, good low end and decent top end. Came with the bike I bought last October and I'm really pleased with it.

  10. #10
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    I've tried both the e*thirteen 9-46 (with a 28t chain ring up front) and a 10-42 (with a 24t chain ring up front). I dont really use gear 11 much anyway, so both worked fine with me. One thing I have done with my 9-46 setup is to use a steel chain ring up front. It is so much more durable than the aluminum ones, and if you are riding in 1st gear a lot you will find the chain line winds up grinding the outside of your front chain ring pretty fast if it is aluminum.

  11. #11
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    I've got a 30t chainring with a 11-46 on the back, and while I'm occasionally on that highest gear doing something downhill on the road... I'm seriously considering a 28t for the front.

    But that's just me. If there's a too low granny gear, I haven't met it yet, lol.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACree View Post
    First, 1 x is a fraud perpetuated on cycling consumers by a brand that couldn't make a working front shifter. At least their rear shifting is finally functional, if not smooth as shimano.

    I swapped a 10-42 for an XT 11-42, then added a wolftooth 49 tooth cog (purchased just prior to 12 spd GX being announced... or I might have spent a little more and gone that route). Wolftooth says GX will take up to a 49 tooth cog, but it's definitely a bit of a hack and doesn't shift as well as the 100% SRAM drivetrain. Now I have a low gear back again, but get spun out at pretty low speed.
    lol...we keep going backwards. Anyone remember when cassettes were 11-30 and 11-32? How did we ever climb back then?

    If you need lower gearing, you need lower gearing, but for the majority of riders, you don't need to go to 28x50t, it's just ridiculously low and you'll fall over riding that slow up any real "uphill" terrain. There are some that ride so slow that yes, this could be useful, but 1x drivetrains aren't slowing most down, and they make a nice neat cockpit with a dropper lever on the left, gear shifter on the right, significantly less weight and a better effective range, rather than a bunch of top end gears that no one really uses. Yes, lots of people claim they have to spin for 20 miles at 45mph to get to their trails, but I never see anyone using this kind of gearing to gain an advantage during a race (just got back from a race tonight) and you use it so rarely during any trail riding it's simply dead weight.

    There will always be a market for things like mega-range cassettes and ultra-low gearing for those who need it, but 1x is not a fraud and works great for the majority of riders.
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  13. #13
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    1x is most definitely the way to go for mountain biking but shame on the industry for taking so long in getting the range/ratios right. Even now, Eagle has too big a jump between 1st and 2nd (but still better than the alternative).

  14. #14
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    FWIW I think a lot of opinions get thrown out there that aren't jiving with my actual meatspace experience, so YMMV. Yeah, if I lived in Bend I'd probably be laughing about this too. But as it is my local lunchtime trails include multiple 30%+ pitches and while my legs have adapted to the 30x46 I've got on the new ride, my knee joints have statements they'd like to make. And on the rare occasions I'm riding with other folks, even much stronger riders than I are spending a LOT of time in their lowest gear gutting it out on some extended climb (and often also making statements, lol).

    I have a 22x36 granny gear on my older 26" wheel bike and having that option has really saved some matches for the end of those classic 20+ mile/6,000'+ vert days. Not to mention the utility when bikepacking.

    I've considered going with a 28 chainring to try to get some of that back, but honestly right now a 2x10 with a 22 granny is still a very reasonable option for mountain riding.
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  15. #15
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    Where are you climbing with 30%? I have a short climb in my usual area called "The Bitch". It's 18% and only strong, technical riders typically make it because you run out of traction usually before gearing.

  16. #16
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    I'm in KittCo. My GPS has indicated some very steep stuff on my regular Roslyn routes, but none of that is particularly unusual in any direction from here. It's actually hard to find rides that don't contain a stupid amount of climbing and/or repeated steep pitches... something as a parent that's kind of a headache, but fortunately kids grow up and get strong enough to at least push their own bike.
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  17. #17
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    Where's "KittCo"?

  18. #18
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    Kittitas County. Cle Elum, Roslyn, etc. Usual ride areas are Teanaway, Taneum, Roslyn Ridge, Joe Watt, Table Mountain (which is basically the other side of Devil's Gulch) etc.

    Lots of opportunities to head out and see how far you can get before your food or legs wear out! Yesterday's lunch ride note was noting a local bear has gone full overachiever mode on some rotten logs above Ewok within the last few days in a ~50' stretch... We're used to seeing digging of course but this one has left an unusual quantity of shrapnel, lol. The last one is a good sized jackpot of old logs and the bear seems to have torn the lid off the whole pile.
    SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options-tweakerrozbear1.jpg SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options-tweakerrozbear2.jpg
    SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options-tweakerrozbear3.jpg
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by verslowrdr View Post
    Lots of opportunities to head out and see how far you can get before your food or legs wear out! Yesterday's lunch ride note was noting a local bear has gone full overachiever mode on some rotten logs above Ewok within the last few days in a ~50' stretch...
    Completely off-topic, but did the crew finish brushing out the trails above Ewok? I was thinking of hauling my electric trimmer up there this weekend and contributing to the cause but don't want to get up there only to find it's not needed.

    To make this relevant to the thread, there are some pitches on the climb where I have to get into my 30-50 granny gear...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodway View Post
    Completely off-topic, but did the crew finish brushing out the trails above Ewok? I was thinking of hauling my electric trimmer up there this weekend and contributing to the cause but don't want to get up there only to find it's not needed.
    Someone started on 4th of July but didn't get the whole thing, which would be nice. I'm a little ambivalent about power tools up there however since it's been so hot and dry for so long... fire season has been kind so far but one look at the BC fire map reveals that's probably just luck. Might want to call Glenn @ the shop to double check in any case, I think most trail work is organized from there these days.
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  21. #21
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    Some folks love 1x others need lower gearing. I personally wish for a lower gear sometimes. Pressing the shifter repeatedly and being repeatedly disappointed that it doesn't go lower on a long climb is sad. I made the switch to 1x because I was having lots of chain drops, and the options for 2x chain guides are not inspiring. Going with a smaller front chainring can help, but if you're already on 28 and you can't go lower because your crank spider then you're SOL. Shimano still sells 2x which I'm sure is great.

  22. #22
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    Well, went with the 28 tooth and it is coming in on Monday so I will be giving that a whirl and see how much of a difference it makes. Can always go back up to a 32 if I am going to someplace flat like Bend.

  23. #23
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    Nice, hope it works for you. I bet dropping 4 teeth makes a big difference. Running 1x is a trade off; it's all about finding a ratio that works for you. I'm not that old, but I remember people having a similar discussion about the move from 3x to 2x, lol. FWIW, I always hate my low gear less in Septemeber than I do in May.

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    I don't care if people want to compromise their bikes, limit their gearing, and push instead of pedal. But it does anger me when they quit putting FD mounts on new bikes. And when no one builds steep trails because no one has the gears to climb them.

    30-42 just isn't low enough for some of the steep climbs around here. I assume several have gone through this already Best option for cost and reliability? Go....
    The best option is to put a 2* on there. But I imagine as mentioned above that your frame won't take an FD. If that is a 27.5" bike than a 28t is ok. I haven't looked that hard but it seems pretty tough to find anything below 28t even in a DM option. The next step is getting a 2* spider with a 64mm mount pattern and putting the little gear on that.
    We changed my friend's E29 back to a 2* and he had some problems with his front shifter - long story and he doesn't like to F with bikes so he just rides his 22t all the time now. If you think that's ridiculous then you are welcome to come out and join us for some MOUNTAIN biking.

  25. #25
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    My new bike has 30 X 46 XT. I'll see how that goes and report back.

    Having ridden a few steeper trails lately, I don't really see 30 X 42 as a very good option for this area.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    ...If you think that's ridiculous then you are welcome to come out and join us for some MOUNTAIN biking.

    Keep the M in MTB!
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  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post

    you are welcome to come out and join us for some MOUNTAIN biking.
    Nah, I'm cool. I'm pretty sure I couldn't keep up with your superior form of mountain biking.

    If rather go ride with some laid back roadies just out enjoying the ride instead of pumping your ego.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    I don't care if people want to compromise their bikes, limit their gearing, and push instead of pedal. But it does anger me when they quit putting FD mounts on new bikes. And when no one builds steep trails because no one has the gears to climb them.



    The best option is to put a 2* on there. But I imagine as mentioned above that your frame won't take an FD. If that is a 27.5" bike than a 28t is ok. I haven't looked that hard but it seems pretty tough to find anything below 28t even in a DM option. The next step is getting a 2* spider with a 64mm mount pattern and putting the little gear on that.
    We changed my friend's E29 back to a 2* and he had some problems with his front shifter - long story and he doesn't like to F with bikes so he just rides his 22t all the time now. If you think that's ridiculous then you are welcome to come out and join us for some MOUNTAIN biking.
    From Richard Cunningham's review of the new Whyte S-150.

    "The S-150's welded-aluminum rear section features symmetric chainstays with minimal bends. The straighter path is always the stronger and lighter-weight method to route frame tubes, so Whyte's designers chose to eliminate the front derailleur and with it, end the folly of re-routing the highly stressed drive-side chain stay six inches below the swingarm pivot to make room for a complicated device that needs to go the way of the Dodo."


    Also DM rings are available in 26t. Race Face Cinch Oval Chainrings - Garbaruk Lightweight Components
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  29. #29
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    No need to be like that.

    Just defending the FD against the onslaught of 1* aficiandos and the people who say nobody "needs gears that low" (or my personal favorite, that only the weak need lower gears).

  30. #30
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    I didn't write that, but in reality bikes are going 1X, and the front derailleur is going away. Manufacturers are doing away with FD compatibility these days, on mountain bikes anyway.
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    lol...we keep going backwards. Anyone remember when cassettes were 11-30 and 11-32? How did we ever climb back then?
    Because you had lower gearing back then

    20 with 32 and 26" wheels = 16.4 gear inches
    22 with 32 and 26" wheels = 18.1
    22 with 36 and 29" wheels = 17.7 gear inches
    24 with 36 and 27.5" wheels = 18.3 gear inches
    30 with 42 and 29" or b+ wheels = 20.7 gear inches

    To get back to the same gearing:
    30 with 50 and 29" or b+ wheels = 17.4 gear inches

  32. #32
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    My 89 Stumpjumper came with a 26 GI granny, my Knolly has XT 1 X 11 and a 18.5 GI granny😱
    I got some bad ideas in my head.

  33. #33
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    FWIW I've been with Preston on this one for a good long while.

    And since Photobucket decided to be stupid, I'll include the picture off the top of Jolly Mtn here. This shot is looking out over country that includes a good chunk of bike legal singletrack, but it should be obvious at a glance why a super low granny might be desirable.
    SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options-jollystewarts.jpg
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  34. #34
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    I recently went to the mountains with 2 rings bolted to my 2x crank, and just manually moved the chain over the few times I needed to. I realize that is not a perfect solution, but just throwing it out there.

    I live in TX, so it didn't make sense for me to buy a super wide range cassette or front derailleur to use for one week.
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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis Bickle View Post
    My 89 Stumpjumper came with a 26 GI granny, my Knolly has XT 1 X 11 and a 18.5 GI granny
    The 80's had lots of bad things.

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    Me and most of my crew are on 29ers. More than one friend I know runs 28T up front....no regrets or heckles, they are strong dudes.

    I recently went Eagle and am really stoked on lower gears...cadence for the win I say. Plus, most us are not racing up hill, instead saving energy is usually a priority. I have done plenty of grinds but even my old 30T sram 11 speed setup when running up some of the walls around here had me begging for a bailout. Not so key at hour 1, but those big days, hour 4, 5, 6 or more, low gears make a huge difference.

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Preston67 View Post
    No need to be like that.

    Just defending the FD against the onslaught of 1* aficiandos and the people who say nobody "needs gears that low" (or my personal favorite, that only the weak need lower gears).
    Totally agree that there is ZERO honor in grinding but Sram Eagle, bro! 30T chain ring and the 50 tooth pie plate on a 29er is mega. I don't spin out till near 35 mph (which I'd never hit on the trail) and the 30/50 1st gear is a bit steeper than the 22/36 (2x Shimano XT) I came from on my last bike. It's so low that if I'm grinding in first it's sorta hard to stay balanced. The only demerit as I've mentioned is the jump between 1st and 2nd is a bit steep, but after that the jumps between gears 2 and 5 are about the same as the 2x I had. The jumps do get bigger after that but at those speeds (i.e., not grinding) it doesn't matter that much, or, at least not for me. Sram just needs to fix 2nd gear by moving from a 42 to a 44 and it will all be golden. Even as is, not having front derailer issues, esp. the noise (which is lost power FWIW), is supreme.

  38. #38
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    >there is ZERO honor in grinding

    Hm. Much of any climb is grinding. That's what one does. I will state my own version - There is no honor in walking.

    (of course there is when one is pushing their trail limits, I'm just using the same literary form as SAL)

    I run a 22t/42t on a 29'er. That is 15.2 gear inches. In order to replicate that with Eagle I need to run a 26t ring. That definitely limits your top end. Theoretically I could make that compromise, but why ? I like riding fast when I'm on roads dirt or otherwise, and even on a techy trail like Predator I get down to the 11t using a 32t big ring. It might never actually happen even with a 26t but that would drive me insane to spin out on singletrack.

    The other issue is as you said the step. With Eagle you have one climbing gear, and then you jump to far. With 2* I have 3 good climbing gears (with the hardest being about equal to a 28t) and being able to pick the right RPM is critical to both clearing and recovery.

    When getting all geeky on gears, I am talking about climbing, not just riding up hill. And I'm totally fine that not everyone wants to do that. I just have a chip on my shoulder because the market is taking this away in a stunningly conformist fashion, at least if you want to buy an all trail 150+ 29'er.

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    Holy Moses - 22/42 is some kinda gearing - that's almost two gears steeper than 30/50. I'm actually very curious as to where you use that. Stuff that steep (say 15%+) IMO is rarely rideable for any length of time as it seems to be quickly chewed and rutted so as to be hike-a-bike territory (at least for mere mortals). Either way, I've never seen gearing that low and my strong hunch is that is way out there on in the tail of the bell curve. Not trying to diss, and if it works for you, great, but IMO it's not conformist to not offer that sort of gearing option to what is likely a very small portion of the market, esp. when it costs the bike manufacturers more to do so.

    As to steps between gears, like other pedaling/gearing rethinking in the cycling industry writ large (pro pelton's higher cadences for example), from what I've read (and experienced) the collective realization seems to be it matters much less for mountain biking performance and the advantages of less noise and less weight at least offsets any detriment, plus, there are the advantages of 1x being cheaper (which enables $ to be spent elsewhere to improve performance, such as better/lighter materials), more reliable, and easier to maintain.

  40. #40
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    I have a 26/42 low on my 29er with 2.3 rear tire size. Works out to 18.03 gear inches, which works well for me. On the other end, it is 26/11, which I can spin up to around 25 - 26 miles per hour.

    If I'm on singletrack and going low 20's, that's plenty fast enough for me. I rarely ride roads (dirt), so it isn't a limiting factor that bothers me at all. Besides, practically speaking, on a long ride if I hit some dirt road, I am not interested in trying to hold a mid 20's mph pace. I am not capable of that, and not embarrassed to admit it.

    Plus, a brand new 11-42 Shimano cassette costs around $65. Compare that to an Eagle or eThirteen cassette (ouch).

    They also have a Shimano 11-46 I could try for maybe $10 more. Not sure if I'd have to make adjustments to the derailleur though.

    Relatively cheap, shifts well, durable, enough range. Works for me.

  41. #41
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    I've run a 22x36 on my old 26" Mojo for a long time, and I don't think 22x46 on a 29" hoop would be unreasonable at all for all day back country/bikepacking applications.

    There's some magnificent gnarl out there in this state, def worth the suffering.
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  42. #42
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    I HATE FDs and have been running 1x since XX1 came out in late 2012. Sometimes you do need even lower gears so on my fatbike I left the 22t small ring on the crankset even though the rest of the stuff was a SRAM 1x11 with a wide/narrow 32t big chainring. When snow/beach riding and I needed that extra lowend I'd just manual drop the chain into the 22t and grind away. It wasnt often I'd need it, but I sure did appreciate it when it was there.
    My buddy runs a very similar setup with his bikepacking bike. He has the suntour 11-42 10 spd cassette, and runs a 32/22 front ring setup but no FD as the bike has no mount for one.
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  43. #43
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    I saw a lot of people up in north Vancouver doing the same thing, double-rings with no FD and then just manually drop it for the longer grinds up steep stuff. Seems the simplest option.
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  44. #44
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    Cherry Valley test ride tonight with the 28 up front. Noticeably better and passes the Elevator and Escorlator road climb test but still feels "higher" than my old 22-34. I am sure some gear junky would be able to confirm or deny it. Thinking now that a 26 may be an option for the big mountain long day climbs...

  45. #45
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    Not all frames can use a 26. Depends on the chainstay configurations.
    If it's not powered solely by you, it's a motorcycle.

    Worshiping at the Church of Singletrack since 1993.

  46. #46
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    I just got the 30 X 11-46 and had a chance to try the low gearing on a couple of steeper climbs at Finn Hill. It's a kind of big jump down to the 46, but seems to work pretty well for getting up the few steeper climbs that I could find. It certainly feels lower than my old 2x10 setup.
    Riding Washington State singletrack since 1986

  47. #47
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    I also went the 28T route. I have a SRAM X1 crank, and it getting the bolt loose was a pain the neck: Got a 10mm hex socket, a long torque wrench and I still went to my LBS to get it loose. Converting from a 30T requires to shorten the chain, and the new 28T has a small offset so the chain does not interfere with the spider. The chain guard (not in the pic) also works (barely due to the offset). Still need to do a decent climb to try it out.

    SRAM XG1150 10-42 granny options-28t.jpg

  48. #48
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    I have 28t front with the ethirteen 9-46 in the back and as my legs have gotten in much better shape this year than previous years, I have noticed two things:
    (1) I just keep getting better and more comfortable on the steeps, but I am not going to switch to 30t, I think I could go to 26t still, I know people say you spin out or lose traction at a certain steepness, but I find I can make it up almost not moving at all, almost pausing at times between the most technical stuff.
    (2) for the first time in a number of years I have my lungs strong too and I find the 28t x 9t is not actually enough for me if I really want to stand up and blast out in the XC sections. I dont care though, I am more concerned about my knees in my old age and truth be told I would ride uphill both ways if I could. So while I get the range limitation issues other people raise, I am happy to calibrate toward what I need to climb comfortably (and without having the dismount except what is essentially unrideable).

    BTW- maybe pinion gearboxes will eventually get us beyond all of this...

  49. #49
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    I know people say you spin out or lose traction at a certain steepness, but I find I can make it up ... almost pausing at times between the most technical stuff.
    Exactly right. People say a lot of things, You can start listening when they are riding and you are pushing.

  50. #50
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    This is the reason I have a granny gear still bolted up to my 1X setup along with a NW 34T. Granny hardly ever used but when there is a long steep climb manually drop to granny. IE Tiger or Chuckanut

    No heavy cassette on the back (although that eagle cassette is light!)

    No spinning out when the going gets fast (that's what the 34t is for)

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