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  1. #1
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    What Model early 80's Ritchey is this?

    It's for sale over in MD but I don't know anything about these early Ritchey's
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What Model early 80's Ritchey is this?-pngl-0.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Looks like an '83 Everest. Do you have any higher resolution pics? (particularly around the head tube)
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  3. #3
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    Sadly I don't

    These are the only 4 pics available
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  4. #4
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    It's likely an '83, but possibly an '82. The seat cluster looks like an Everest, and it appears to have the lightened head tube of an Everest as well.

    With a serial number I could confirm it for sure. But based on the one picture (the others are not helpful) I'd stick with '83 Everest (which was one of the nicer models available).
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  5. #5
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    Nothing to add from what Laffeaux said, but nice find, scoop it up.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the info guys. It's officially mine and waiting to be sent over. Did a lot of research and I came up with the same conclusion. Most likely an 83 Everest with Shimano components, and rusty Phil's hubs.

    Can't wait to get it cleaned up and on the road!

  7. #7
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    WooHoo!
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  8. #8
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    Awesome! With a few parts sawapped out that will be nice.

  9. #9
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    Bike was received last friday. It was "farm fresh" completely covered in dirt, grime & a fair amount of rust on the chrome bits. I've spent hours cleaning & I'm having a blast.

    Oh and Laffeaux you're correct 83 Everest. 4th 21" frame of 83 so just shy of 82
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  10. #10
    Hardtail Steel Forever
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    Way cool find. Am I seeing this correctly? Lugged seat to top tube interface and fillets everywhere else.
    WTB: Med Bontrager Ti Lite, PM Me...

  11. #11
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    Almost.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What Model early 80's Ritchey is this?-clean-light-2.jpg  


  12. #12
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    Very nice! The "lug" at the seat tube is a reinforcement sleeve that Tom added on most of his frames. The shape varies by model and year.

    This is definitely an Everest. Great pick up and very nice bike!
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  13. #13
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    Thanks Laffeaux

    Any idea where to source replacement brake cables & housing? It's pretty large diameter stuff, I assume motorcycle parts?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What Model early 80's Ritchey is this?-brake-cable-1.jpg  


  14. #14
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    Finding the old diameter cables and housing can be tough. A motorcycle shop may carry it, and other might have good sources.

    I found some on eBay several/many years back and bought a supply of it. I'm down to my last "bag" of it. But try looking on eBay, and more may come up - the pic shows what I have, and I've seen Tioga brand for sale too.

    For the crossover cable, it's much easier to find on eBay or possibly at an older LBS. In a pinch you can use a standard brake cable - it's missing the little piece that allows you to grab the cable more easily, but it works fine.
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    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  15. #15
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    Perfect! Thanks for the info again Laffeaux!

    I called around locally and no one has any in stock, there is some on ebay at the moment but I also need to find 8mm end caps. So the search continues.

    Date codes on all the shimano stuff point to early to Feb 1983 for the Rear D & brakes, shifters are mid 83.

    Did clean up the chain & rear Derailleur last night. The barrel adjuster screw broke off when I tried to back it out. It'll have to be re-threaded, luckily I had another screw laying around.

    Chain is looking great, hardly any stretch. Original Sedis it looks like.

    Can't wait to ride this thing. Earlier this week I was given a box of stuff, bunch of reflectors & old lights. Found these gloves at the bottom... totally perfect.
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    Last edited by eshew; 01-23-2018 at 11:20 PM.

  16. #16
    rismtb
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    I see a c clip pliers on the floor in one picture. The press fit bb's can be hard to remove. I imagine the bb is ok?? Nice find I am sure you will like the ride.

  17. #17
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    Is there any life left to the ideale sadle?
    2008 BMC Fourstroke 19-559 ISO (RIP in peace)
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    2017 Salsa Timberjack 40-584 ISO

  18. #18
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    Rismtb C clip pliers were for the bb. I just wanted to clean up the shell. The bearings spin smooth & I'm not ready to delve that deep just yet. I could only guess how difficult it coould be to remove that bb. I'm assuming there are no presses & it's a whole lot of hammering. Not something I want to do to this bike just yet.

    the_joe The Ideale saddle seams to be in pretty good shape. I can't say I know anything about them. The seat & post look like the oldest parts of the bike. The seat post head is bolted to the seat post mast and reinforced with a sleeve. Looks primitive
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  19. #19
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    Its a french brand that went out in the mid 80s. Very nice saddles. Looks like that is the touring model. Ideale saddle model guide

    Id recommend conditioning it with Proofide or Dubbin to get it rehydrated. Even if you arent a leather saddle person, its a very cool vintage piece.
    2008 BMC Fourstroke 19-559 ISO (RIP in peace)
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    2017 Salsa Timberjack 40-584 ISO

  20. #20
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    Wow, awesome link. This early 80's stuff is quite new to me. Got my first real mountain bike in 1991 or so, and had my subscription to Mountain Bike Action. Drooled over the cannondales & Kleins at the local bike shop. Still remember the smell of the shop as I stared at the wall of brand new Attitudes & Adroits... but anything prior to 1990 I'm completely clueless.

    The Ideale saddle is growing on me though, I'm going to keep it as it's cleaned up well. After I get the bike built up I'll be sure to take any measures necessary to keep it in great shape.

    I'm thinking about replacing the tires with something of the same era as the bike. Would these pass the test? Kenda K50 Comp 3 BMX bicycle skinwall tire - 26" X 2.125" BLACK

    I did clean up the front brakes and removed the cables & housing from one side of the bar. Brakes & fork cleaned up well. Might have a line on 6mm housing, & cable ends. I'm waiting to hear back from an old moped shop that might be able to source everything. We shall see. I am guessing that the natural progression from the earlier motorcycle brake setup of 80/81/82? would be to smaller lighter moped & mtb standard parts. I guess we'll find out eventually. The moped site is pretty cool, lots of relevant info Cable Parts « Myrons Mopeds
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  21. #21
    rismtb
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    Wicked awesome Ritchey Now make sure you krypto that baby at the pub.

  22. #22
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    Looks like Universal motorcycle clutch cable is pretty darn close to what this bike has for brake cables & housing.
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  23. #23
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    Slowly but surely making progress
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  24. #24
    rismtb
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    you need the classic grab on grips

  25. #25
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    Slowly but surely making progress
    Slowly but surely?

    I've got projects that are older than my kids.

    You sir, are charging into it something fearsome.

    Grumps

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy View Post
    Slowly but surely?

    I've got projects that are older than my kids.

    You sir, are charging into it something fearsome.

    Grumps
    Thanks Grumps

    That makes me feel pretty good about the progress.

    Big step today, the Ritchey made it outside for the first time since I received it. Looks pretty good out of the garage, Should have everything I need to finish it this week aside from the correct cable step up ferrules which are apparently extinct.
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  27. #27
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    It looks great!
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  28. #28
    Retro on Steroids
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    Quote Originally Posted by eshew View Post
    Thanks Laffeaux

    Any idea where to source replacement brake cables & housing? It's pretty large diameter stuff, I assume motorcycle parts?
    We made our own brake cables using a larger diameter cable. Bought the cable on a reel, along with little brass cylinders that you put on the ends and secured with melted lead. The standard bicycle cable end is the wrong size for a Magura lever.

    The little pot of molten lead sat right next to the stand where I built your wheels.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Repack Rider View Post
    We made our own brake cables using a larger diameter cable. Bought the cable on a reel, along with little brass cylinders that you put on the ends and secured with melted lead. The standard bicycle cable end is the wrong size for a Magura lever.

    The little pot of molten lead sat right next to the stand where I built your wheels.
    Thanks for the info CK! I guess I'll stop searching for those ferrules now lol. I assume you guys used the same process with the shimano stuff as well?

    These cables are the narrower 6mm brake cables but the ferrules step up from 6-7mm and from 6-8/9 at the levers. Not even 100% sure that the brake lines on it now are stock or not anyway.

    Regardless I don't trust myself around an open container of lead.

    Nice work on the wheels though, still straight as an arrow!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails What Model early 80's Ritchey is this?-brake-ferrules-1.jpg  


  30. #30
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    A couple of observations on those wheel sets.

    After you build a bunch of road wheels, which are very sensitive to roundness, a mountain bike wheel on an Araya or Ukai rim was ridiculously easy. The rims are perfectly round and stout, even an inexperienced wheel builder can probably make a straight wheel with them.

    The trick in the shop is to do it quickly and efficiently. Repetition helps. After a while I could reach into the big box of spokes and pull out 36 just by the feel of the handful.

    Gary showed me the Schwinn lacing method, which involves the way you hold the spokes when you drop them into the flange, and the order in which you attach the nipples. Always grease the threads and the ferrule before you lace a wheel.

    You can build a 4X 26" wheel on any hub with 270mm spokes. If you're fussy you can use 268 on the drive side, but we just touched them up with a grinder if they stuck inside the rim.

  31. #31
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    Thanks for the info CK! It's got to feel great knowing that the bikes you built decades ago are loved by so many people!

    Today I was fed up with waiting for the mail to do some work on the bike. That ugly rusted front hub was on my list of things to do.

    Apparently the heavily rusted center section of the Phil's hub is Stainless Steel... could have fooled me. That portion is anything but stainless.

    Tried being gentle at first. White Vinegar, nope. Baking Soda & water, nope. Baking soda mixed with lime juice, better but still didn't put a dent in the heavily rusted parts.

    I decided to go all out. Maroon scotch brite pad cut into a long strip with zip ties at the ends to allow for full movement back and forth through the spokes. Added a bit of white vinegar to the pad....progress. After about 200 strokes progress was obvious.

    Can't get away from the fact that it's pitted but those ugly rust stripes are gone, I'm finishing with strips of white Scotchbrite pad used in the same fashion.
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  32. #32
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    Beautiful stuff.

    It's an interesting feeling to have built something pretty simple, but nearly eternal, and see it decades later.

  33. #33
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    Finally had some time to work on the project & I think it's just about buttoned up.

    Lucked out & everything is a go. Couldn't find original cable ferrules. As Repack says, these babies are custom. Rather than sliding on caps over the cable housing, these are soldered. The cable housing is stripped of about 1/4" of rubber from the ends of the housing so the steel core can be soldered to the cap. At that point they are one with the spiral steel cable housing center & are stuck. Tried pulling one off & with a lot of force it unraveled the steel housing. Built to last but a PITA.

    6mm brake cable housing was found on Ebay & 6mm Motion Pro housing ends just fit the frame braze ons. I used standard 5mm housing & ends for shifting.

    As placeholders the tires are Kenda K50 Comp III's repro's. IRC apparently isn't interested in a redux of their tires. The tread pattern is circa '83 so it works. That & I can distinctly remember this tread pattern on one of my 1st bikes, must have been a 16"-20" wheel bmx bike circa '83 so it gets the nod. I was 4-5years old, good times.

    Pedals are again placeholders. Would love some XC-1's but I'll have to wait.

    I did some cable rub protection around the head tube. The paint has held up amazingly well, the original Imron paint only shows a hint of cable rub where the rear brake line must have paid against the drive side of the head tube. Imron paint is amazingly durable stuff. Haven't decided what to use for the chain stay. I could use helicopter tape but as it's the original paint it's not smooth enough to leave a bubble free tape. Black material would be best, but it's still up on the air.

    The rear brake cable as it's routed along the top tube was threaded through a clear plastic tube between the cable stops from the factory. It did it's job keeping calbe rub at bay, but was rather yellow & brittle. Luckily I had a spare 25ft of this clear plastic tubing laying around from an old Klein project, so I had the spare 1.5' laying around. So I've that going for me, which is nice.
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    Last edited by eshew; 02-13-2018 at 11:38 AM.

  34. #34
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    Beauty! Great job.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  35. #35
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    Awesome. Put those bar ends back on tho. If you don't you won't be able to hit your aero tuck.

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