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  1. #1
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    Whatīs wrong here? suntour xc pro canti brakes content

    When i tighten the allen bolt to the brake studs, i have no movement from the brake arms. i tried to find an exploded diagram to check if i am missing any parts but i am almost pretty sure i have everyhting.
    Any idea on whatīs going on?
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  2. #2
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    http://www.sjscycles.com/Instruction...structions.pdf

    Does that help?

    I recall having a similar problem years ago but can't for the life remember the cause of the problem or the solution. I guess that makes me one of those people who "have forgotten more than some people will ever know".

    I do remember a friend of mine had the reverse problem - the brakes were loose when everything was nipped up tight, to the point of having a few mm of play. Turned out the canti posts on his uber new cyclocrosser were longer than they should have been.

    Grumps

    EDIT: The heading at the top of the instruction sheet says "XC PRO" and "XC PRO SE" yet the exploded diagram is only for the SE (self energising) version.

  3. #3
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    Try turning the washer upside down, sometimes they get divoted and tighten down against the brake caliper instead of the brake stud.
    I brake for stinkbugs

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy View Post
    http://www.sjscycles.com/Instruction...structions.pdf

    Does that help?

    I recall having a similar problem years ago but can't for the life remember the cause of the problem or the solution. I guess that makes me one of those people who "have forgotten more than some people will ever know".

    I do remember a friend of mine had the reverse problem - the brakes were loose when everything was nipped up tight, to the point of having a few mm of play. Turned out the canti posts on his uber new cyclocrosser were longer than they should have been.

    Grumps

    EDIT: The heading at the top of the instruction sheet says "XC PRO" and "XC PRO SE" yet the exploded diagram is only for the SE (self energising) version.
    Mine are different. Itīs the gold 93 verson. The spring is at the front unlike all the dia compes and there is a sleeve going between brake arm and stud.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.B. Weld View Post
    Try turning the washer upside down, sometimes they get divoted and tighten down against the brake caliper instead of the brake stud.
    I have the same trouble on both front brakes and i bet i will have the same if i try the pair on the rear. There is a metal sleeve which goes first over the studs and under the brake arm. Then the spring: it has a tip that fits a tiny hole on the arm, a plastic washer holds the spring wby the same tip and then a metal cap fits over the plastic holding the other tip. An allen bolt goes on the cap and tightens against the stud. On all four brakes. I canīt see how i could reverse any of those parts except for the spring and i already tried that.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  6. #6
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    Came to say what JB said. Been there done that, more times than I can count.

    I'm having trouble visualizing what you're saying, my fault, not your words.

    Got pics?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Came to say what JB said. Been there done that, more times than I can count.

    I'm having trouble visualizing what you're saying, my fault, not your words.

    Got pics?
    I will do the pics. I just looked at it again and it seems i could not invert any part. There are 6 parts on each brake:
    A metal sleeve.
    Brake arm.
    spring.
    Plastic cover.
    Metal cap.
    Allen bolt.

    My only guess is something missing but then it would be missing on all four brakes.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  8. #8
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    Pics of the bolt too?

    Perhaps it has one of those washers that won't come off easily, and it's got the worn portion?

    Tried a different bolt/washer off say, a Shimano brake from the same era to see if that helps/clarifies things?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  9. #9
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    Put some small washers over the stud before you put bolt in. The washer fits inside the canti in effect lengthening the stud.

    Put larger dia washers under canti if it is loose.

    Just something to look at.
    [SIGPIC]http://www.geckocycles.com[/SIGPIC]

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Pics of the bolt too?

    Perhaps it has one of those washers that won't come off easily, and it's got the worn portion?

    Tried a different bolt/washer off say, a Shimano brake from the same era to see if that helps/clarifies things?
    Hard to see whatīs wrong from pictures. The brake arms fit a sleeve inside. The sleeve goes over the stud and presses against the fork. The brake arm should rotate on the sleeve. On the front of the arms, goes the spring, a plastic spacer and the cap. The allen bolt tightens everything.
    Itīs a very different design from shimano.
    I keep thinking there should be some kind of bearing or something that would let the arms rotate frictionless over the sleeve but there isnīt. On my brakes, when i tighten the bolt, the arms are pressed against the lip of the sleeve and so it does not move anymore.
    What is more intriguing is that a shop had built these same brakes over the same fork in the past. And then on another fork which i used for 2 yrs. Then it was disassmbled and v brakes were installed.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  11. #11
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    I tried a washer between the sleeve and the fork w/ no success. There are marks of the serrated lip of the sleeve on the base of the fork studs so it mounted before w/ no washer.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    I tried a washer between the sleeve and the fork w/ no success. There are marks of the serrated lip of the sleeve on the base of the fork studs so it mounted before w/ no washer.
    small washer on top of stud to loosen
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckocycles View Post
    small washer on top of stud to loosen
    There is no washer left on the fork. Except the one w/3 holes used to adjust some cantis. This one was there w/ the same brakes before. It has the print of the serrated sleeve.
    I ran out of guesses here.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  14. #14
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    top washers are the same OD as stud
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    There is but one rule in life. "First one to the finish line wins!"
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  15. #15
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    They don't come with brake kits that I know of. They are just small washers that are meant to lengthen overall stud length.
    [SIGPIC]http://www.geckocycles.com[/SIGPIC]

    There is but one rule in life. "First one to the finish line wins!"
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckocycles View Post
    They don't come with brake kits that I know of. They are just small washers that are meant to lengthen overall stud length.
    Found out what the trouble is.. There is a small washer that goes inside the top cap. I found one of them. The other three are gone. It fits snugly. Probably a proprietary part.. so i am screwed. No wonder these brakes are not very popular.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  17. #17
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    Find replacement washers.
    Make some out of sheet metal, even beer can material. Drill hole and use scissors
    I would use mini lathe and slice up some small tubing
    [SIGPIC]http://www.geckocycles.com[/SIGPIC]

    There is but one rule in life. "First one to the finish line wins!"
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by geckocycles View Post
    Find replacement washers.
    Make some out of sheet metal, even beer can material. Drill hole and use scissors
    I would use mini lathe and slice up some small tubing
    I found some washers at the hardware store. Almost the same size. Flexible zinc prone to rust but managed to rebuild the brakes. They are solid. I am happy now.

    EDIT: There is no exploded diagram of these brakes on line. Someone should scan the instructions of the 93 xc pro and publish on line, somewhere.
    Once those washers leave their place, no one can figure out how to rebuild them. If i had seen the diagram somewhere i would have saved some time. Not to mention.. i would not have lost them in the first place.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  19. #19
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    Exploded diagram of the suntour xc pro 93. Thanks to D. Evan for the scan.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -suntour-xc-pro.jpg  

    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

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