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  1. #176
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    I just thought I'd post an update on my spring bending skills.

    I think I've finally figured out a system that works. Here are some pictures of the bending post I use. It is held very firmly in the 6 jaw chuck and I then use an assortment of 1/2",5/8", and 3/4" wrenches to gradually bend the spring around the radius of the bending tool. As you can see from the progression... it took a few tries to get my technique dialed in.

    I'm now working on the hex nut that they will slot into.






    I bent these to a 1/2" diamter, but I've since determined that the "D" is probably a bit too small to fit in the spring holder that has a 0.25" thru hole... so I'm going to redo it with a 0.6" diameter bending post.

  2. #177
    Old School
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    Very cool!

  3. #178
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    Niiiice.
    -eric-

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    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  4. #179
    used to be uno-speedo....
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    Nice work yall!

    Don't forget to taper grind your springs...


  5. #180
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    DC, what thickness Titanium sheet are these made from?

    ... and what is the OD and ID?



    Thanks

  6. #181
    Single Speed Junkie
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    Very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice.

    Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an Oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings.

    While the lathe was running the mill was open so I made a new top cap and lockring for a damaged WI freewheel. Gap is much tighter than original and the walnut burl is nearly flush with the edge of the cog.

    Any more pics of custom parts I would love to see them.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails A Vintage Parts Fab-wi-off.jpg  

    A Vintage Parts Fab-wi-small.jpg  


  7. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by classen View Post
    DC, what thickness Titanium sheet are these made from?

    ... and what is the OD and ID?



    Thanks
    The original (left) is hardened carbon steel and is 0.020" thick.

    The Ti one (right) is 6/4 alloy and 0.017" thick with 0.235" ID and 0.710" OD.

  8. #183
    VRC Hound
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    How does the Ti one work? Does Ti have a similar hardness to the steel?

  9. #184
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    The Ti has good wear resistance and is about on par with the hardened steel. And it doesn't corrode.

  10. #185
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    Quote Originally Posted by crux View Post
    very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice.

    Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings.

    While the lathe was running the mill was open so i made a new top cap and lockring for a damaged wi freewheel. Gap is much tighter than original and the walnut burl is nearly flush with the edge of the cog.

    Any more pics of custom parts i would love to see them.
    slick!
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

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  11. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by crux View Post
    Very cool thread, just stumbled across it this evening. The brakes turned out really nice.

    Having a lathe and mill have come in handy when you need to fabricate some obsolete parts. I just made an Oar lock set for a friends boat out of brass fitting the original fittings.

    While the lathe was running the mill was open so I made a new top cap and lockring for a damaged WI freewheel. Gap is much tighter than original and the walnut burl is nearly flush with the edge of the cog.

    Any more pics of custom parts I would love to see them.
    Thats rad. Love the organic with the metal.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  12. #187
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    Odd-Ball Part

    I think this particular part was discussed on VRC in the recent past, because there aren't any modern substitutes. What is the specific use?

    A Vintage Parts Fab-img_0948.jpg

  13. #188
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleCentury View Post
    What is the specific use?
    straddle cable...
    No points to garage queens!

    "Mum it's not a bike - it's a Yeti" (my daughter explaining things)

  14. #189
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    I'm guessing those are silver soldered? I'm surprised that is strong enough for brake cable forces. But I guess it is. Any special treatment to get the solder to stick to the stainless steel cable?
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  15. #190
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    It's actually lead/tin solder like the originals and the cable is zinc-plated plain-steel.

    They are straddle cables for a very specific brake.

  16. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleCentury View Post
    It's actually lead/tin solder like the originals and the cable is zinc-plated plain-steel.

    They are straddle cables for a very specific brake.
    ird?

  17. #192
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    Yes, IRD Progressive. Takes small buttons with nothing hanging off the ends.

  18. #193
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    Someone just got really stoked.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  19. #194
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    I was attempting to make a set of WTB-style brake boosters for my brakes and was in the machine shops hacking away with a file and some Scotch Brite when a real machinist walked by and asked what I was doing. He wasn't super impressed with my handmade version and thought he could do a much better job with his CNC end mill.... who was I to say otherwise?

    Here you can see my hand made version (or at least as far as I got before the idea of the CNC'ed ones came to fruition). I was going to remove some more material and drill the mounting holes, but there was no way I would ever have been able to make these outstanding WTB replicas without a real CNC machine and the help of a friend. My version 54 grams. The awesome CNC version 27 grams.



    Last edited by classen; 07-10-2012 at 04:38 PM.

  20. #195
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    this is a great thread...some very creative tings going on...Im an engineer by trade so I always am thinking of new stuff for my bikes but never do much more than make notes for future ref (I have an extremely unique bike design Im gonna do one of these dayys). I kinda did what someone else here did, I made a crown for a fork. It was for a Manitou 1 back around 93. I made it out of magnesium because we had a bunch of it around for projects. After about two months that damn thing broke on me while wheelying thru a smart ditch. The corresponding crash almost broke my collarbone...again. Luckily it didnt, but what it did was to make me not make any more parts. I still have it somewhere in one of my bike parts bins from long ago. I alos had a 26" trials bike form the late 90's. The frame was a Hawk (made special for a friend). The friend is a machinist and he made 80% of the parts on that bike himself, most out of torlon and peek, ect...and plastics like that...strong as steel when properly heat treated but the weight of plastic...and extremely expensive..or it was back then. I sold that bike on ebay about 8 years ago. I'm sure the person thats got it now has no clue what all those parts are.
    I currently have access to a real nice 3d printer that uses some tough materials so I'm thinking of what I can do with it for parts..plastic parts mostly but its good for molds and cores too...just gotta make some things...Hmmmmmmm.
    I do 3d design all day too...so if someone wants to collaborate on something, I'd be willing to discuss trading modeling time for machining or parts??? I's also real good for figuring out angles and anything to do with tube bending and sheetmetal forming.
    For those that dont know...if you draw profiles then scan and vectorize..or just make them on the computer...you can laser cut sheets of aluminum, steel, carbon fiber...tubing...ect...for relatively cheap.
    Keep up the fine work everybody...very cool stuff.

  21. #196
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    Awesome there classen!

  22. #197
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    Very nice. Now, if they only had the logo on them...
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  23. #198
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    Very nice. Now, if they only had the logo on them...


    I think that would cross the line between respectful homage to a classic MTB component and downright counterfeit.

    I'm very pleased with them, and certainly don't want people to think I have an original WTB brake booster (because I can't really afford them anyways... my bids are just never high enough ). Anyways, I drew them just by looking at photographs I found on the interwebs since I don't own a real WTB set.

  24. #199
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    Hi DC, or anyone else who might know. What are these bolts? The ones for fixing the toggle cam or the roller cam rollers to the brake arm.



    Are they a shoulder bolt? Obviously they've been modified to have a little indent where the springs rest, but what bolt were they before meeting the lathe?

    I could make something like this from 3/8" stainless steel hex bar stock

    Last edited by classen; 10-12-2012 at 04:33 PM.

  25. #200
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    It is made from 5/16" (8 mm) stainless hex stock with a 10-32 thread.

    Both versions of the WTB brake sometimes came with plain 10-32 screws and a stack of washers and spacers.

    A Vintage Parts Fab-img_5952.jpg

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