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  1. #1
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    Vintage Cannondale pics please?

    Now that I have the space and the cash to invest in an extra bicycle I need to make a choice. If I had to pick one now I would go for one of the bikes I liked when I was just starting to ride. late 80's early 90's.
    Back then I liked Cannondale among others.
    I would like to see some high end Dales from that time. Who's got some pics?
    le Cadre Custom Bicycles; www.lecadre-bicycles.com/wp

  2. #2
    mountaingoatcycles.com
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  3. #3
    VRC Illuminati
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    You know...there's a bit of everything here...but I can't say I've seen too many dialed in top of the line early 90's C'Dales.

    Some 26/24" wheel'ed stuff is out there.

    Have you done a Vintage forum specific search for 'cannondale'? I'm sure pics will come up.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  4. #4
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    Here's my old SM800 Beast of the east.
    150mm Klein mission control bar/stem, Turbo saddle, grafton cranks, Bent IRD seatpost, spindly straight leg forks, radial front wheel, odessey svelt skewers, Scott SE front brake, 987 rear, SS-5 levers, XT thumbies mounted upside down ala Joe Murray style.


  5. #5
    VRC Illuminati
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    Neat site I found too. A lot of the bikes are not very vintage...but some are.
    http://www.vintagecannondale.com/



    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  6. #6
    Hit The Road Cyclery
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    This is probably earlier than you're looking for, but it's still pretty cool (for a Cannondale ).


  7. #7
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    Here’s my Cannondale M600, recently restored and turned into a singlespeed…








  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    Neat site I found too. A lot of the bikes are not very vintage...but some are.
    http://www.vintagecannondale.com/

    But, it's my EST !
    Now resprayed in neon apple green- black and neon pink…

  9. #9
    don't try this at home
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie-
    This is probably earlier than you're looking for, but it's still pretty cool (for a Cannondale ).

    this was my first "real" mountain bike. except mine had all the black anodized parts, full suntour XC gruppo. I had it on lay-away at the LBS for about 4 months till my dad helped pay it off early. I think it was about $740, which was a boatload of money, especially for a high school student then. I still remember riding it out the store when I got to take it home.

    that photo brings back lot of good memories. i bent the derailleur hanger a few years later and replaced it with a 3.0 model in 1988.
    will you rep me?

  10. #10
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    Last edited by grillface; 05-13-2009 at 01:28 PM.

  11. #11
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    Have you been here to see this?

    Quote Originally Posted by steelhead
    Now that I have the space and the cash to invest in an extra bicycle I need to make a choice. If I had to pick one now I would go for one of the bikes I liked when I was just starting to ride. late 80's early 90's.
    Back then I liked Cannondale among others.
    I would like to see some high end Dales from that time. Who's got some pics?

    Go Here, Look This, Beauty beauty beauty.

    1999 Cannondale Super V Raven 3000--10 years later.

  12. #12
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    Maybe this is a bit too old.....here's my mid 80's bike, all the original paint and parts are still there, but over the years I replaced the seat, tires, grips, and added the seat spring, fenders, and rack the week I bought it back in 85ish.

    Larry
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  13. #13
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    I needed a bike that I could ride to the store, etc. Something that wouldn't matter if it got ripped off. So I got a Cannondale.
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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 24pouces
    But, it's my EST !
    Now resprayed in neon apple green- black and neon pink…
    The shop I worked for got one of the first of these hot rods...I beat the **** out of that thing behind the shop before I sold it to a nice/stupid customer!

  15. #15
    John Galt
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    Quote Originally Posted by hairstream
    I needed a bike that I could ride to the store, etc. Something that wouldn't matter if it got ripped off. So I got a Cannondale.
    Fortunately, most people don't realize the street value of those brakes...

  16. #16
    John Galt
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    Quote Originally Posted by olcarluvr
    Maybe this is a bit too old.....here's my mid 80's bike, all the original paint and parts are still there, but over the years I replaced the seat, tires, grips, and added the seat spring, fenders, and rack the week I bought it back in 85ish.

    Larry
    Fenders and a rollercam - that's just cool. Any close-ups of the rear brake/fender relationship?

  17. #17
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Real old C'dals do not have cantilevered chainstays
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.
    I ride so slow, your Garmin will shut off.

  18. #18
    illuminaughty
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    wifey's bike

    I set this up a couple years ago and my better half loves it.
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  19. #19
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    1989 SM600

    []\[] [] []/[]

  20. #20
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    Thanks, cegrover. The brake area was the weak link in the in the rear fender. I had to cut the fender in two, and I remember the mud build up on the brake (ah, the good old days). The pics show some crude aluminum strap bending, pop-riveting, and small fasteners holding the rear portion of the fender to the black rack. It will all come off without a trace. It's strong, but ugly, has held up for over 23 years.

    Larry
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  21. #21
    Looking for an Ultimate
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    1990 SM1000 in 1991 paint, recently discovered in this condition deep in someone's cellar



    More here: 1990 Cannondale SM1000 'Barn Find'
    Regards,
    Neill

    WTD: 1 1/4" Chris King no-logo, threaded, black.
    WTD: 19" Yeti Ultimate frame/forks

  22. #22
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    Brand-new 1992 M700 just brought from the LBS.


    Same bike in 1993.


    My friend's 1993 Super V 3000

  23. #23
    Chucklehead
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    My M800 Beast of the East.
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  24. #24
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    if your still looking, I was just given a 1989 Cannondale 3.0 series 22 in mountain frame. Right now I'm in the process of stripping the paint, and then repainting it.

  25. #25
    Devolution is real!
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    utahdog2003…………give us the story on that beast of the east. IMO it is probably the best looking one I have seen. Awesome parts spec on it.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by toyota200x
    utahdog2003…………give us the story on that beast of the east. IMO it is probably the best looking one I have seen. Awesome parts spec on it.
    Thanks!

    Frame - M800 Beast of the East 20" Viper Red
    Fork - Cannondale Pepperoni, Metalic Black.
    Headset - King NoThreadSet
    Stem - CODA - resprayed black
    Bar - CODA - NOS
    Levers - CODA - NOS
    Grips - Cannondale
    Brakes - NOS Deore DX cantilevers with X-IT Designs Dual-eez hanger in rear, Force 40 POS up front
    Post - NOS Deore XT
    Clamp - Salsa
    Saddle - NOS SDG Slim Jim glitter gold
    Cranks - Race Face Turbines, SRP hardware
    Rings - Race Face
    Pedals - Shimano XTR SPD, modern stuff
    BB - UN-71
    Rims - Velocity Deep-V 32h
    Hubs - Deore XT - XT hub body 9spd conversion
    QRs, Deore XT
    Rear Deraileur - NOS Deore DX short
    Front Derailleur - Deore DX endless loop
    Shifters - Dura Ace 9spd with Paul Thumbies
    Cassette - SRAM 970

  27. #27
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    I recently bought a cannondale m600. same paint scheme as the purple and blue one above. very nice ligthweight bike.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by utahdog2003
    Thanks!
    Hubs - Deore XT - XT hub body 9spd conversion
    QRs, Deore XT
    Rear Deraileur - NOS Deore DX short
    Front Derailleur - Deore DX endless loop
    Shifters - Dura Ace 9spd with Paul Thumbies
    Cassette - SRAM 970


    I like the Beast very much! ----could you tell me a little more about the XT hub conversion? How/from what/problems/etc. Cheers!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y
    I like the Beast very much! ----could you tell me a little more about the XT hub conversion? How/from what/problems/etc. Cheers!
    Cake.

    Original hub is a 6 speed UG model with a 130mm axle. Just remove the axle and completely disassemble the cone/spacers/locknuts from the axle. Keep them, as you'll be wanting them in a minute...and of course, you'll be adding 5mm to the sum spacer width when you install the 135mm axle. I boosted the 135 axle from an older DX hub with a trashed flange. Once the axle is removed, you can now remove the UG hub body, which comes off with a 10mm allen, as I recall. Now you are holding only a raped and gutted XT hub shell in your hot little hands. Look at the drive side...there are some running changes to the interface between the hub body and the hub shell over the years, but essentially they are almost universally compatible. There are a few combinations where a raised surface on the shell interferes with the outer spinning component of the hub body, but that's a rare occurence. There are also possibly stainless or delrin flat bushings between the hub shell and the hub body, so you can use those as you need to, to prevent any binding of the hub body against the shell. Simply install the new 8-9 speed hub body, in my case it's a 8-9 from the first generation Parallax XT hub, and retorgue the 10mm allen bolt that secures the hub body to the shell.

    Grease the bearing race inside the replacement hub body and stick yer balls in there (!), and begin reinstalling the new axle, using another 8-9 speed hub as an indicator for the thickness of the cone assembly on the drive side, or as an indicator of how far the assembly protrudes from the outer edge of the hub body. Also make sure you have enough exposed axle on the outside of the cone assembly to safely support the rear wheel in the dropout on that side, and to prevent the non-drive side of the axle from protruding out of the dropouts on that side. Your margin for error in fitting these cone assemblies in the right place is equivalent to the sum thickness of the dropouts on the frame you'll be using the wheel on.

    Now that the drive side is spaced correctly, torque down the drive side cone/spacer assembly on that side and then reassemble and adjust the hub as you would were you to just be doing a simple hub service.

    Sounds more complicated than it is. And I think it's easier to do it on a hub that is laced to a wheel. Lacing the hub into a wheel isn't really much different that lacing the original 6 speed variant of the same hub, although you'll have to pay attention to dish a bit more than normal.

    It may sound complicated, but it isn't really. Take a hub apart and think about how it works and then all this will make perfect sense. If anyone thinks I've not mentioned something here that needs to be said, then post it up. I'm sure that I'm reading these instructions from the perspective of having done the surgery, as opposed to seeing the instructions for the first time and noticing a big hole in the steps.
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  30. #30
    artistic...
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    Quote Originally Posted by pint
    The shop I worked for got one of the first of these hot rods...I beat the **** out of that thing behind the shop before I sold it to a nice/stupid customer!
    nice work ethic.

    no wonder everybody hates their LBS.

  31. #31
    artistic...
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    Quote Originally Posted by utahdog2003
    Cake.

    Original hub is a 6 speed UG model with a 130mm axle. Just remove the axle and completely disassemble the cone/spacers/locknuts from the axle. Keep them, as you'll be wanting them in a minute...and of course, you'll be adding 5mm to the sum spacer width when you install the 135mm axle. I boosted the 135 axle from an older DX hub with a trashed flange. Once the axle is removed, you can now remove the UG hub body, which comes off with a 10mm allen, as I recall. Now you are holding only a raped and gutted XT hub shell in your hot little hands. Look at the drive side...there are some running changes to the interface between the hub body and the hub shell over the years, but essentially they are almost universally compatible. There are a few combinations where a raised surface on the shell interferes with the outer spinning component of the hub body, but that's a rare occurence. There are also possibly stainless or delrin flat bushings between the hub shell and the hub body, so you can use those as you need to, to prevent any binding of the hub body against the shell. Simply install the new 8-9 speed hub body, in my case it's a 8-9 from the first generation Parallax XT hub, and retorgue the 10mm allen bolt that secures the hub body to the shell.

    Grease the bearing race inside the replacement hub body and stick yer balls in there (!), and begin reinstalling the new axle, using another 8-9 speed hub as an indicator for the thickness of the cone assembly on the drive side, or as an indicator of how far the assembly protrudes from the outer edge of the hub body. Also make sure you have enough exposed axle on the outside of the cone assembly to safely support the rear wheel in the dropout on that side, and to prevent the non-drive side of the axle from protruding out of the dropouts on that side. Your margin for error in fitting these cone assemblies in the right place is equivalent to the sum thickness of the dropouts on the frame you'll be using the wheel on.

    Now that the drive side is spaced correctly, torque down the drive side cone/spacer assembly on that side and then reassemble and adjust the hub as you would were you to just be doing a simple hub service.

    Sounds more complicated than it is. And I think it's easier to do it on a hub that is laced to a wheel. Lacing the hub into a wheel isn't really much different that lacing the original 6 speed variant of the same hub, although you'll have to pay attention to dish a bit more than normal.

    It may sound complicated, but it isn't really. Take a hub apart and think about how it works and then all this will make perfect sense. If anyone thinks I've not mentioned something here that needs to be said, then post it up. I'm sure that I'm reading these instructions from the perspective of having done the surgery, as opposed to seeing the instructions for the first time and noticing a big hole in the steps.

    yup. i had a trashed xtr, frewheel was kapputt... so we took everything from another hub and put it in the laced xtr hub shell.

  32. #32
    Chucklehead
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1
    yup. i had a trashed xtr, frewheel was kapputt... so we took everything from another hub and put it in the laced xtr hub shell.
    Yup, yup. For Shimano, there's a remarkable amount of compatibility across hub generations and models that the frankenstein possibilities are endless...

    Exage Mountain with a titanium hub body? Anyone?

  33. #33
    artistic...
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    Quote Originally Posted by utahdog2003
    Yup, yup. For Shimano, there's a remarkable amount of compatibility across hub generations and models that the frankenstein possibilities are endless...

    Exage Mountain with a titanium hub body? Anyone?
    mine now is an xtr wheel w/ exage freewheel..

  34. #34
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    Here's my old Cannondale which has been through MANY changes over the years. Still rides like it's on rails!

    http://www.vintagecannondale.com/Gal...jim/97cad3.jpg
    From the foothills of the Adirondack Mountains

    -1997 Cannondale CAAD3 SS
    -2009 Specialized FSR/XC
    -2015 Yeti 575 650b

  35. #35
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    thanks for that utahdog!!! ----I may have another summer project to play with

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo-Nate-y
    thanks for that utahdog!!! ----I may have another summer project to play with

    Don't hurt yourself... I can't be held responsible...

  37. #37
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    indeed not.....maybe I'll wait till winter so I can crash into snowbank if things go awry.

  38. #38
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    heres a pic of my M600


  39. #39
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    Here's my C-Dale which has been through dozens of changes over the years...
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  40. #40
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    Currently posted in the classifieds...

    Cannondale 26 x 24,
    Frame size 16...29-31 stand over
    Naked frame, paint removed
    Tange SwitchBlade fork/period correct XT headset-1inch
    Control Tech stem-135mm, Zoom 130 bar
    Deore thumb shifters/Dia Compe levers/XT short cage r deri/newer XT f deri/M990 XTR 165mm cranks
    SE U Brake-rear, SE Cantis-front
    105 hubs/Ritchey Vantage Pro WCS rims/ Ritchey MegaBite Z Max tires f and r
    SR seat post, saddle not included
    Period correct XT pedals w/Power Grips






  41. #41
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    M700 matching purple sun rims, canti's, and seat post clamp. Its for sale too. Too big for me, 22" bb to tt

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    So, picture of this EST resprayed with neon colors…







  43. #43
    Strangelove
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    My 1986 SM600. My first mountain bike. I worked two full summers and a harsh winter as a schoolboy- paper rounds, washing cars, cleaning down my fathers trucks in the snow, cutting lawns, sweeping leaves etc and saved like crazy to buy it. I can still remember that incredible feeling of wheeling it out of the shop and into the cold winter air on the morning I bought it.

    Mountain biking was a lonely existance in the UK back then- it was almost another two years until I saw another one in my area. I packed in some epic rides in those days, that bike gave me freedom from the bordom of living in a small town in the middle of nowhere.

    Sadly that original bike was stolen in the mid 90's, but a few years ago I decided to track down another SM600 and restore it. There is a link to the original bike though...On the original bike's first outing on the moors of North Yorkshire I slipped on rocks and tore off the saddle cover and foam. I had to ride it another two months held together with Duck Tape until I could afford a new saddle. I bought the most expensive in the shop- a Super Turbo and it still wears that same saddle today, 24 years later!

    This bike has the the wrong forks and I would love to find an original pair to finish it off- I even have a shining new roller cam brake to fit when that day comes.

    They might not be the most desirable bikes in the world these days but to a kid growing up in the grim North of England it was the greatest thing on the planet, and for that I will always cherish it.

    Cheers
    Si

  44. #44
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    removed...
    Last edited by bgfthntr; 01-15-2010 at 08:32 AM.

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