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  1. #1
    mtbr member
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    The Ultimate Stuck Seat Post fix.....

    So ive had some stuck seat post problems, as we all have had. Some are worst than others. I had the worst one i've had ever!!! On a old Kona Fire Mountain, the seatpost was a 26.6 and someone managed to get a 26.8 seatpost in, a pretty nice Suntour XC post.

    I soaked that bad boy for weeks, going out to the garage and messing around with it everynight, tried a camping torch a real torch. I got fed up with it decided to ruin the post, used pipe wrenchs everything i could think of. Went through a whole can of PB Blaster, that usually works after a day of soaking. Read every dedicated forum post on this site, the bmx sites and a ton of other sites. All had the same info.

    Then it hit me................

    I decided to drill a hole big enough the get a allen wrench through snuggly through the seat post and used a hammer drill like the one below in the picture. Used a chisel bit put it against the curved part of the allen wrench and not even full pressure or power it came out in about 5 seconds. it was dry as could be as well and could see where the aluminum started to bond with the steel.

    Just thought i'd share that, i had to do it again for a buddy and thought i should put that on here, it could help a guy out.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  2. #2
    Humanoid Lobster
    Reputation: Jak0zilla's Avatar
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    Sounds interesting! I'm always interested to hear of any QUICK ways to get stuck seatposts out.

    Do you have any pictures of the drilling you did on this post to get the allen wrench in?

    Your way sounds much easier than my "ultimate" fix which is to cut the post off, insert a hacksaw blade on a jab handle and cut slots into the inner part of the seatpost tube and eventually tap the sections loose with a punch. It's painstaking work to avoid scoring the inside of the seat tube and takes a really long time.
    Don't call it a gooseneck.

  3. #3
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    I didn't take any pics, i should have. I just drilled a hole in the post itself big enough to get a 5mm allen l wrench in it and hit the button
    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  4. #4
    the new Gilbert Grape
    Reputation: laffeaux's Avatar
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    It always amazes me that people force a post that's too big into a frame. I guess people don't realize that there is more than one size?

    I guess these are the same people that as kids put the round peg into the square hole, and worked at it long enough to make it fit.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  5. #5
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    I have a stuck seat post right now on a garage sale road bike. My solution in the past was to remove the post from the inside as mentioned earlier. I like your idea, but I'm not sure I understand it. The allen key is inserted in a whole drilled thru the seat post and perpendicular to it?

  6. #6
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    I like the air tool idea! Last time I had a stuck post I put a bad old seat on there, and swung a 24" += 2x4 upwards and was able to whack it out little by little. I think your method is more efficient, but I did not damage my seatpost.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
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    heres a picture that i made its not to scale but you get the idea
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Ultimate Stuck Seat Post fix.....-seatpost_stelvio_carbon.jpg  

    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  8. #8
    gobsmacked Moderator
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    That is like the best illustration I've seen in awhile. tee hee.

    p.s. re Laffeaux- there's like two kinds of peoples: brute force vs. finesse.

  9. #9
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
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    your solution was too late..

    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  10. #10
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    that makes me sad

    Quote Originally Posted by fishcreek View Post
    your solution was too late..

    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  11. #11
    Certified Bike Junkie
    Reputation: muddybuddy's Avatar
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    how was that the solution to a stuck seatpost?
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  12. #12
    one chain loop
    Reputation: fishcreek's Avatar
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    seatpost was out, and as a bonus you have a soft tail frame.
    everything sucks but my vacuum cleaner.

  13. #13
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Cut a bit more out of the Humu and you'll get a shock to fit.

    Grumps

  14. #14
    Hissatsu Jitensha-nin
    Reputation: longfinkillie's Avatar
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    I actually ran a check to see if the pic was PS'd or not. It's legit.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by YakimaDeathYaks View Post
    heres a picture that i made its not to scale but you get the idea
    Thanks!

  16. #16
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YakimaDeathYaks View Post
    heres a picture that i made its not to scale but you get the idea
    Yakima - your pics seem to have vanished. You couldn't upload them again could you please? - your solution sounds like my last resort...

    Thanks in advance

  17. #17
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    Ok but it ruins the the post but works good soak it in some PB Blaster for a bit though and it works nice, don't give up it will come out
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The Ultimate Stuck Seat Post fix.....-poststuck.jpg  

    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  18. #18
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    i've used an impact gun/air hammer more times than i'd like to admit on seized stuff like that. it hasn't resulted in calamity yet (knocking furiously on my desk). last month a friend hit the seized bottom bracket exacta box! crank arm thread stripped, so puller wouldn't work, and riding it around with no crank bolts didn't do a thing. took the crank off the spindle with my air hammer, then found the bottom bracket to be seized in the shell... took that out with the impact gun. the whole process took over a month (after all the soaking and smarter ideas failed), but the actual time on the air tools, between both jobs must have been under a minute. if you support the area you're working on very well, the frame should be fine.

    and fish creek: that picture makes me so freaking mad!

  19. #19
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by YakimaDeathYaks View Post
    Ok but it ruins the the post but works good soak it in some PB Blaster for a bit though and it works nice, don't give up it will come out
    How did you hold the frame solid whilst you used the hammer?

  20. #20
    human dehumidifier
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    How did you hold the frame solid whilst you used the hammer?
    An air hammer doesn't have that much kick to where anything is hard to hold. It's more about how it hits it 10 bazillion times a second than it is how hard it hits.
    I may or may not be laughing at you.

  21. #21
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    yep. it gets the job done through repetition, not brute force, so in general terms, it's no more dangerous than tapping with a normal hammer with an equivalent force. that said, it not only accelerates positive outcomes, but negative ones too. if you do something stupid with an air hammer, you'll arrive at the result of your "something stupid" much sooner. so still be very thoughtful about how you support the frame, and be conscious about how you can isolate the force to where you want it. for example, when i was using the air hammer to remove the crank arm from the bb spindle, i supported the bike from the bottom bracket itself, not any part of the frame. this way if anything were to fail, it would be the bottom bracket, not the bb shell or any other part of the frame.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigwheelsRbest View Post
    How did you hold the frame solid whilst you used the hammer?
    just held it up on the ground, like the other guys said it doesn't move the frame around at all
    1985 Ritchey Timber Comp
    1985 Ritchey Ascent
    1987 Ritchey Timberwolf

  23. #23
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    the ideal method to support the frame would be to have it resting on a loose seat collar, upside-down. this way each "blow" of the hammer would only apply a compressive force to the top of the seat tube itself, which is internally supported by the seat post. no other tubes or welds on the bike would experience any force. avoid supporting the frame by other areas, because the energy of each blow is transferred to every tube and every weld between the hammer and where you have the frame supported. in cases where you have no choice but to support the frame by adjacent tubes (like when using the impact gun to free a bb that's seized in a shell), create the greatest area of support possible to reduce stress risers.

  24. #24
    Mulleticious
    Reputation: BigwheelsRbest's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advice - especially on using the seat collar which I will anchor into my workbench, and then support the frame in a bike stand - hope it works.

    just splashed out on an air hammer... Should arrive early next week.
    Last edited by BigwheelsRbest; 09-19-2013 at 03:26 AM.

  25. #25
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    good luck!

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