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  1. #1
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    Titanium vintage mtb - 140mm rear axle

    Hi, I am building (slowly) an old Ti frame. Like this one:
    Titan Ti Frame

    The complications are challenging to say the least

    1. press fitted bearings in weird aluminium sockets for bb - solved
    2. rear brake studs had no holes to tension the cantilever springs - solved (used outward spring cantilevers - like avid shorty ultimate)
    3. 1/4 headtube - solved (found reducers to 1/8)

    Now, the most challenging of all problems: the rear dropout spacing is of 140 mm. Mind you this is not a tandem, so don't know what is the deal with that spacing.
    I don't want to cold set it, don't want to ruin it.

    How about using 135 mm standard hub and using the tension from the quick release to squize the gap? That means there will be some tension in the rear triangle.

    What do you think? will the frame brake in time? what would be the best solution?
    Thanks for any tried-out solution you might have.

  2. #2
    DFA
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    if the hub is cup + cone, a longer tandem hub axle and 5mm worth of axle spacers in several widths.

  3. #3
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    Yep. Not too tough, and better than squeezing things.

    For a frame I have that is 140mm, where I happened to be using Chris King hubs, I just got a different sized spacer from King and had the wheel redished. Their 'Classic' hub bodies are the same whether 130/135/140mm with the width difference being the spacer.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  4. #4
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    I have a standard 135 mm Mavic crossride wheel-set that I was planning to use on this build.
    Do you know if squizing it is a such bad thing? I reckon it's only 2.5 mm on each side.
    What could happen?

  5. #5
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    Some ti is brittle, that design has the seat stays come together over the rear wheel in that funny wishbone thing which means there is less tubing length to distribute that extra 2.5mm that there would be otherwise.

    I dunno, go for it if you want. I'd prefer to get the spacing right. Mavic's proprietary stuff can make that more of a pain, to be sure.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  6. #6
    DFA
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    I can't see any company that would have spec'd a 140 mm spacing in the first place. I'd suspect one or both of the stays were cold set to fit another non standard hub.

  7. #7
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    Is there any way to tell if it was cold-set or not?
    I don't know any history of the frame, picked it up at a flea market.

  8. #8
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    The company is apparently Titan, a short lived US company in early 90's, that used to make titanium BMXs, which would explain the bmx like design of the frame.

  9. #9
    DFA
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    Quote Originally Posted by absinth14 View Post
    Is there any way to tell if it was cold-set or not?
    The dropouts being flared out slightly towards the rear would be a sign.

  10. #10
    illuminaughty
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    I'm running 135 in mine (I used to be stan4bikes) without any trouble...for what its worth.

    Heres how it ended up...


    return of the Titan..or was it Clash of..whatever ;0
    Last edited by da'HOOV; 06-27-2012 at 07:17 PM.

  11. #11
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    Hi da'Hoov, mean looking machine you got there.
    So is your rear spacing the same? 140mm?
    Because I'm trying to determine now if that is standard on these frames or mine was cold-set.

  12. #12
    illuminaughty
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    Thanx, heres some better pics when it was completed. I don't recall having any issues with the rear width, I think it came as a 135 spaced frame.

    Titan Compe

  13. #13
    Old School
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    Absinth,
    Read this article by Sheldon Brown.
    axle spacing and axle length. Might help.

    Bicycle Frame/Hub Spacing

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by absinth14 View Post
    Hi, I am building (slowly) an old Ti frame. Like this one:
    Titan Ti Frame

    ...

    Now, the most challenging of all problems: the rear dropout spacing is of 140 mm. Mind you this is not a tandem, so don't know what is the deal with that spacing.
    I don't want to cold set it, don't want to ruin it.

    How about using 135 mm standard hub and using the tension from the quick release to squize the gap? That means there will be some tension in the rear triangle.

    What do you think? will the frame brake in time? what would be the best solution?
    Thanks for any tried-out solution you might have.
    I pulled mine down from the delayed project display area and it is 135mm. I think the only way yours would be 140mm is from production error or later bending. A frame maker with an alignment table should be able to tell if both stays are equally spaced about the frame's center line. As long as it is centered, a standard hub with spacers should be fine. I would avoid cold setting it. If you do determine that it is too trashed to use, I would be interested in the BB, so that I can move my frame out of the delayed project display area.

  15. #15
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    @Joe Steel:
    Good article on sheldonbrown, as always. Thanks for the heads-up.

    @outside:
    Hopefully I won't get to that, but will keep it in mind.

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