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  1. #1
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    Sweet Wings Cranks removal

    OK--so I picked up a road bike with Sweet Wings cranks on them--I have always wanted a set--but I cannot get that stinkin 8mm bolt in the center removed. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded or what? There is no rust or anything like that. It just seems stuck.

    Eric

  2. #2
    Relax. I'm a pro.
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    Well, I wish I had this problem.
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  3. #3
    defender of bad taste
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    I've never come across a reverse threaded crank bolt, I have however come across 8mm crank bolts that were fitted dry and over-torqued and they can be a nightmare to remove.

    Try and get some penetrating oil in around the bolt and also into the taper from the back of the crank then let it sit for a couple days. The get the longest 8mm key you can and apply as much torque as you can, but apply it evenly - constant pressure not off-on-off-on - do not be tempted to try and hit the hex key with a hammer or something - a seat post over the end of the key can give you some good (and comfortable) extra leverage. There is a real possibility that the bolt will crack at one of its corners before it breaks free - if that happens you are looking at several hours drilling (and possibly an external crank puller). Good Luck!
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechagouki
    I've never come across a reverse threaded crank bolt, I have however come across 8mm crank bolts that were fitted dry and over-torqued and they can be a nightmare to remove.

    Try and get some penetrating oil in around the bolt and also into the taper from the back of the crank then let it sit for a couple days. The get the longest 8mm key you can and apply as much torque as you can, but apply it evenly - constant pressure not off-on-off-on - do not be tempted to try and hit the hex key with a hammer or something - a seat post over the end of the key can give you some good (and comfortable) extra leverage. There is a real possibility that the bolt will crack at one of its corners before it breaks free - if that happens you are looking at several hours drilling (and possibly an external crank puller). Good Luck!
    They aren't square taper cranks. They are two piece like Bullseyes, or maybe more similar to the integrated cranks/BBs you see today.
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  5. #5
    Mantis, Paramount, Campy
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    Extra Leverage

    Quote Originally Posted by OregonMTB
    OK--so I picked up a road bike with Sweet Wings cranks on them--I have always wanted a set--but I cannot get that stinkin 8mm bolt in the center removed. Does anyone know if it is reverse threaded or what? There is no rust or anything like that. It just seems stuck.

    Eric
    Try a large ratchet. The previous owner may have liberly applied loctite. That bolt coming loose is frequently a problem.

    PS: If there 170's sent them this way!
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  6. #6
    Humanoid Lobster
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    This may sound crazy, but you might try letting the bike sit in the sun and get nice and warm (couple of hours) and give it a try then.

    This in addition to periodically putting a few drops of some kind of penetrating oil to seep into the joint might just be the ticket. I've used a product called "Marvel Mystery Oil" available at auto parts stores to free stuck seatposts and stems in the past. It was recommended to me, and did work (although perhaps WD40 would work just as well.)

    And finally, find yourself a "cheater" to slip over your 8mm allen key (a length of pipe that just fits over the key and make it a longer lever.) Watch your hands around the chainring, when the bolt does break free - they have teeth and do bite.

    Be patient, you can always get out the hammer and drill later ...
    Don't call it a gooseneck.

  7. #7
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    If loctited, try heat. That is the prescribed method for breaking thread locker.
    Quote Originally Posted by banks
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  8. #8
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    As Shayne said, Loc-Tite is probably the problem. I used Loc-Tite on the bolt that secures the two halves on a pair that are currently on my road bike. I'm not sure how easily the bolt will come out - it's been over 5,000 miles since I installed them and I've had no issues so far. I can't remember for sure, but I don't believe that they are reverse threaded. I'd suggest getting a longer breaker bar. the bolt is so far recessed into the bottom bracket that many of the "normal" ideas for loosening bolts are impractical.

    Also, when you remove the non-drive cup, the splines for the tool are on the inside of the cup. Not all BB removal tools will work as many are too large to pass through the BB shell. I had to buy one that does not have wrench flats on it - it only works with a socket wrench.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  9. #9
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    Mine is not left hand threaded. However I do use Blue loctite on those threads and splines to discourage loosening.

    If there is the Red Loctite in there, only heat will loosen. You could use a heat gun to put heat in the screw hole to see if that helps.

  10. #10
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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    A BBQ lighter inside the frame will do also.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by IF52
    They aren't square taper cranks. They are two piece like Bullseyes, or maybe more similar to the integrated cranks/BBs you see today.
    I'd actually never seen a pair before reading this thread - I've just taken the time to do a bit of reading on them - beautiful cranks! Apparently they were prone to creaking though - poor tolerances at the spline/arm interface, so probably the OP is reaping the rewards of whatever the former owner used to silence the cranks...
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  12. #12
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechagouki
    I'd actually never seen a pair before reading this thread - I've just taken the time to do a bit of reading on them - beautiful cranks! Apparently they were prone to creaking though - poor tolerances at the spline/arm interface, so probably the OP is reaping the rewards of whatever the former owner used to silence the cranks...
    I believe that a modification to the design fixed the issue. On later models, there is a sleeve that encases the splined interface and presses against the inner-walls of cups. The sleeve prevents the cups from flexing independently of each other, which reduces bearing wear and wear on the splines. Early models didn't have the sleeve.

    The Sweet Wings design is very similar to the current Campy UT crank design.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  13. #13
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    OK--I will try to heat it up a little--that bolt is so deep--I have to go buy another 8mm wrench that has 2 long sides. They are on a Giant CADEX carbon frame--so, I don't want to do much heating.

    The bike also came with a Sweet Parts stem--some nice old Dura Ace stuff--and some not so nice wheels and other parts.

    The cranks are 172.5

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