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  1. #101
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    Nowhereman, What kind of stem is that? Can't read it.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  2. #102
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    It looks a little like the "Dimensions" riser stem I got for cheap from my LBS. It's not a bad stem either. Mine was in the 160g range IIRC.

    FCTi

  3. #103
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    Yes, it's a Dimension stem. Though it's cheap but it's surprisingly well built and finished.
    I dont know about the longevity, time will tell.

  4. #104
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    Hi, This is my first or second post on this forum, but I have been reading it for years and it has been great inspiration. thank you all. Here is my MB-1 1989.



    Last edited by Machianera; 02-25-2011 at 11:15 AM.

  5. #105
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    Nice MB-1! .....might be the angle but your front fork looks kind of bent?
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  6. #106
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    Thanks! I did not notice but it does look weird in the photo. I just check and the fork seems straight. Will do more investigation.
    Last edited by Machianera; 02-22-2011 at 10:59 AM.

  7. #107
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    [QUOTE=Machianera]Hi, This is my first or second post on this forum, but I have been reading it for years and it has been great inspiration. thank you all. Here is my MB-1 1989 last week at Cunningham Park in nyc.

    That looks great. Did you get an answer to your drop bar swap?
    Stuart

    wanted: TA Chainrings, FUNK Big Fork, Bullseye Cranks 176mm,

  8. #108
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    It's a Koski fork and it sure looks to be bent to me.

  9. #109
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    Yes the fork is bent. Not as much as the photo may suggest, but it is. Never occurred to me since the bike handles fine no hands. EDIT I just scored the same fork on CL and about to mount it!

    YETIFIED: no answer on drop bar trade.
    Last edited by Machianera; 02-25-2011 at 11:17 AM.

  10. #110
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    is there a bridgestone gallery on here yet?

  11. #111
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    Might as well add my Bontrager with RM-3 Ibis bend bars to the thread, although it no longer has drop bars on it. I couldn't get them high enough and never liked the way it looked or rode, so I switched back to flat bars. Personally, I think drop bars only look good on sloping tube frames, probably because the first MTB's I remember with drops were Cunninghams, JP's mainly. In any case:


  12. #112
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    Rm-2

    the bars on the rock lobster are the wtb-logo only variety 25.4 clamp.

    the surly has the specialized rm-2 / wtb logo variety 26.0 clamp. the surly is also equipped with a set of old wtb thumbshifter mounts.

    both feature velox plugs. natch.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-5068037403_c03392b0e4_z.jpg  

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-5313330040_c34d0d3b3b_z.jpg  

    "May your trails be winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view." - Ed Abbey
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  13. #113
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    CX is kind of offroad too, I guess:





    Last edited by rasumichin; 04-06-2011 at 02:57 AM.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by nowhereman
    Yes, it's a Dimension stem. Though it's cheap but it's surprisingly well built and finished.
    I dont know about the longevity, time will tell.
    Surprisingly....cheap lol

    Just went to their web site.

    http://www.dimensionbikeproducts.com/cpsc.html
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier
    "There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"

    That's it? I think you frighten too easy.
    Warning: may contain sarcasm and/or crap made up in an attempt to feel important.

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailville
    "There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"

    That's it? I think you frighten too easy.

    LOL I think that I've had similar injuries on nearly every bike that I've ever owned.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailville
    "There has been one report of a handlebar stem breaking that resulted in minor abrasions and bruises to the rider"

    That's it? I think you frighten too easy.
    Oh I guess I read it wrong. I thought they were recalling 18,000 stems.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  18. #118
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    add one.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-7fcc6fbd.jpg  


  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike
    add one.
    Stubby LD there G. You have some nice Dirt drop setups. I think it was a picture of your Salsa and ER's Otis together that first got me motivated to try putting together my own Dirt Drop ride. Made it all that much better when I recently got to see your Salsa at Keyesville.
    Last edited by tductape; 05-02-2014 at 07:53 PM.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike
    add one.
    classy. i just love those old ibis.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  21. #121
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    Wow, four great looking bikes. Lots of rollercams there Aemmer, I love it!

    Looking through the pages, the LD stems make DD builds look 'right' every time. Other stems certainly get the job done, but to my noobish eye, none quite pull it off with the same grace.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike
    add one.

    Show off.
    -eric-

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    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogun700
    Wow, four great looking bikes. Lots of rollercams there Aemmer, I love it!

    Looking through the pages, the LD stems make DD builds look 'right' every time. Other stems certainly get the job done, but to my noobish eye, none quite pull it off with the same grace.

    You've got a great noobish eye then.
    -eric-

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    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  24. #124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    You've got a great noobish eye then.
    Thanks. It creates a problem when what looks right is pretty much unavailable. Every time I look a these stems I start to wonder what it would take to build one-I assume it's not as straightforward as it looks. I work in a shop that makes all kinds of things-engines, carburetors, 2-stroke exhaust systems...and tube chassis made with small diameter chromoly. We can bend, cut and weld pretty much anything, but unfortunately (for this anyway) my job is in the horsepower department, and I don't weld. It's one thing to get one of my coworkers to weld something for me, but another thing entirely to ask them to help me create something essentially from scratch. Plus, copying someone else's idea sucks.
    WANTED: Fisher Paragon, blue/green, Ritchey dropouts.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer
    Factory Dirt Drop circa 1987.

    Attachment 574742


    Attachment 574731

    Thanks Grant.
    Bike Touring News has these bars

  26. #126
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    Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days?

    I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.

    The "modern" stem offerings are upsetting. Time was when you could get a huge variety of reach and rise options at most bike shops. These days everything is 0deg or 5deg, and you're expected to run the thing up a flagpole made of spacers if you want your bars higher. (Or put one of those adjustable monstrosities on.) There are more off-roadable bars available than ever before, but without a fork with a 3 foot A-to-C pushing your front end up in the air there are no stems to run them.

    So ... who's the "new old-Salsa" of stem building?
    Don't call it a gooseneck.

  27. #127
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    These look worthwhile, if you can find one:

    http://www.bti-usa.com/voodoo/bicycles/nakisistem

    I've been using the Profile "Boa" stems on several of my bikes where I need to get the bars way up there. They're ugly, fairly heavy, and really inexpensive. Oh, well! Better than adjustables, anyway.

  28. #128
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    That's got the reach/rise, but the dumb handlebar size. (At least it's bigger so it could be shimmed.)

    Can it be run on a 1" steerer with a shim, or is the clamp too funky? I regularly run 1-1/8" stems on 1" steers with shims to adapt, but I'll only do so if the binder arrangement is a "normal" pinch that generates enough clamping force. There's a lot going on there with that Voodoo ... anyone run one on a 1" steerer?

  29. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jak0zilla
    Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days?

    I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.

    The "modern" stem offerings are upsetting. Time was when you could get a huge variety of reach and rise options at most bike shops. These days everything is 0deg or 5deg, and you're expected to run the thing up a flagpole made of spacers if you want your bars higher. (Or put one of those adjustable monstrosities on.) There are more off-roadable bars available than ever before, but without a fork with a 3 foot A-to-C pushing your front end up in the air there are no stems to run them.

    So ... who's the "new old-Salsa" of stem building?

    The only production stem <45deg is the Nakisi. opps... too late.

  30. #130
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jak0zilla
    Does anyone ave any tips to share about where to order good drop bar stems these days?

    I know there are lots of places to get Nitto DirtDrop & Periscopa quill models. Ebay is a pain in the pants for good vintage ones. And most of the builders who've made the nicer work in this thread that are built in this decade are now too busy for stems without an accompanying frame order.

    The "modern" stem offerings are upsetting. Time was when you could get a huge variety of reach and rise options at most bike shops. These days everything is 0deg or 5deg, and you're expected to run the thing up a flagpole made of spacers if you want your bars higher. (Or put one of those adjustable monstrosities on.) There are more off-roadable bars available than ever before, but without a fork with a 3 foot A-to-C pushing your front end up in the air there are no stems to run them.

    So ... who's the "new old-Salsa" of stem building?

    The only production stem <45deg is the Nakisi...

  31. #131
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    Quote Originally Posted by ong
    These look worthwhile, if you can find one:

    http://www.bti-usa.com/voodoo/bicycles/nakisistem

    I've been using the Profile "Boa" stems on several of my bikes where I need to get the bars way up there. They're ugly, fairly heavy, and really inexpensive. Oh, well! Better than adjustables, anyway.
    I just got one of the VooDoo stems recently from Bikeman. As the photo indicates it comes without the stem bolt or the pinch bolt. Kind of strange. It also took about a month to get to me. Fortunately I wasn't in a hurry.

    Also Profile Design makes a quill style to clamp style stem adapter in both 1" to 1 1/8" and 1 1/8" straight. If you take the top cap and machine it down to 1 1/8th it works as a stub for the above stem. Or leave the cap on and use it to mount modern stems to 1" threaded steertubes.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  32. #132
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    suntour shifter options for drop bars

    I have a bike that I have been slowly converting to drop bars. I have the stem/bar/brake lever position pretty much dialed, but I was hoping for input from anyone with experience pros or cons. The drivetrain is full 7sp XC Pro. Options:

    1. Barons. Probably the cheapest and easiest to find, but I'd rather have the shifters closer to the brake levers.

    2. Kelly Takeoff with road shifters. Not too expensive and fairly easy to source, but I've heard mixed reviews relating to positioning and I couldn't find anyone that had used them on dirt drop bars.

    3. Suntour command shifters. Harder to find and a little more spendy. How well do they work with dirt drops?

    4. Is there any way to mount Suntour thumbs to a WTB mount, or are they Shimano specific?
    Last edited by muddybuddy; 06-12-2011 at 05:51 PM.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  33. #133
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    I'd go barcon.

  34. #134
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    I have a bike that I have been slowly converting to drop bars. I have the stem/bar/brake lever position pretty much dialed, but I was hoping for input from anyone with experience pros or cons. The drivetrain is full 7sp XC Pro. Options:

    1. Barons. Probably the cheapest and easiest to find, but I'd rather have the shifters closer to the brake levers.

    2. Kelly Takeoff with road shifters. Not too expensive and fairly easy to source, but I've heard mixed reviews relating to positioning and I couldn't find anyone that had used them on dirt drop bars.

    3. Suntour command shifters. Harder to find and a little more spendy. How well do they work with dirt drops?

    4. Is there any way to mount Suntour thumbs to a WTB mount, or are they Shimano specific?
    they're Shimano specific. Suntour's indexed barcons would be cool.

  35. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by singletracktourist View Post
    they're Shimano specific. Suntour's indexed barcons would be cool.
    I have a Suntour set.

  36. #136
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    Maybe the Velo Orange/ Rivendell friction barcon set up.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  37. #137
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    Seeing that the WTB's and DKG's are darn near impossible to find unless you're "in the loop", the Kelly's are questionable, DC is not mass producing his, the Suntour Commands are just plain weird and bar ends are, well, barends. What are the options? It would seem like such a simple item to produce. Shimano and Suntour compatible please.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

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  38. #138
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    Barcons aren't that bad. The Suntour ones are really rugged...unless you round the bolts cuz you forget to go lefty tighty and righty loosey.

    As for the WTB/DKG mounts, I don't think you exactly have to be in the loop. You either have to shell out some real dough like the ones that sold on ebay tonight or you have to luck into them.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    Barcons aren't that bad. The Suntour ones are really rugged...unless you round the bolts cuz you forget to go lefty tighty and righty loosey on one side.
    Don't get me wrong G. I love Barcons and own many sets but I want to be one of the cool kids like you.

    BTW. I have one stripped bolt also.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
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  40. #140
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    I'm not one of the cool kids! I lucked out location wise. Come out for a visit Jeff, I'll buy you a beer!

  41. #141
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    Holding your own in this testosterone laden soup called the VRC forum gives you double cool points. I'll be out visiting family in August and take you up on that beer. Beer and bikes.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
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  42. #142
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    There was a set of WTB's on the bay a couple of weeks ago with a $275 BIN. They did not sell.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    2. Kelly Takeoff with road shifters. Not too expensive and fairly easy to source, but I've heard mixed reviews relating to positioning and I couldn't find anyone that had used them on dirt drop bars.
    I've run the Kelly's on my Phoenix since new in '98 and I'd say I'm generally happy. My setup is with 8sp Shimano downtube shifters.

    Positives:
    - Works with any recent generation of Shimano downtube OR BARCON shifters -- 8, 9 or 10sp. If I was to re-do this, I'd probalby try try the Barcons as their larger size and rubber hoods might be more finger-friendly.
    - MUCH more inexpensive/available than the various WTB and DKG variants.

    Negatives:
    - Mounting position of the shifter onto the mount doesn't have the adjustability of the WTB/DKG options.
    - Shifter is a little further from the bar than WTB/DKG and probably lends itself more to someone with large hands and/or long fingers.
    - Not really "vintage correct" on anything older than '97 or so.


  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by bushpig View Post
    I have a Suntour set.
    pics please.

  45. #145
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    I like barcons best but depends on the bars you use.
    If they are very flared like the old wtb, the wtb mounts or kelly may be better.
    If the bars have less flare and shorter ends then I would use barcons.

    I like the old metal suntour w ratcheting, they work very well. Dont like shimano, silver etc.. bc theway they look
    The old campagnolo bar ends shift the best and are more precise.

    But none of the above are index!

  46. #146
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    Suntour are indexing.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  47. #147
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    The bars I'm using are the WTB/Specialized RM2. I don't have a lot of experience for comparison, but they seem to have quite a bit of flair.

    Shifters will be indexed, regardless of location.
    Last edited by muddybuddy; 06-13-2011 at 10:43 PM.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  48. #148
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    should have sold a child and bought those shifter mounts 2 nights ago! Barcons do great until you luck into a dkg/wtb set. truusttt meeeee

  49. #149
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    Muddy,
    What are you putting together?
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2 or 3. Cunningham Racer.

  50. #150
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    should have sold a child and bought those shifter mounts 2 nights ago! Barcons do great until you luck into a dkg/wtb set. truusttt meeeee
    Was watching those. Like everyone else here was I'm sure. But the cheap bastard in me wouldn't let me pay for them. Plus there's the Suntour aspect complicating things.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aemmer View Post
    Muddy,
    What are you putting together?
    Converting the Gecko. Had been thinking about it for a while, just finally got around to getting the parts together.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  52. #152
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    Command Shifters

    Quote Originally Posted by muddybuddy View Post
    .

    3. Suntour command shifters. Harder to find and a little more spendy. How well do they work with dirt drops?
    My local shop has probably 5 sets of these if you want to go that route.
    They're interesting. I never really liked them on drops but they're fun on the end of bullhorn bars or TT aero bars.
    *** --- *** --- ***

  53. #153
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    Came across this yesterday. Clockwork Bikes is making "LD" style stems. I guess they are going for about $250.00 each, and there are options for face plate or not. See a Flickr pic of one here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2887955...in/photostream

    Looks perfect for a retro-fit.
    Riden' an Smilin'
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  54. #154
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    Hey GT,

    we've talked about it a couple times in here. Tried to get him to do a 1" headtube one but no luck, I believe. The thread was locked.

  55. #155
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    I also inquired about him doing a 1" girth LD and he suggested using a shim.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  56. #156
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    He's listening though. I'm sure if he received enough commitments he would make a run.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  57. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    Hey GT,

    we've talked about it a couple times in here. Tried to get him to do a 1" headtube one but no luck, I believe. The thread was locked.
    Sorry. Didn't realize that.

    I don't see a problem using a shim, but I understand not everyone will see that as being "proper". That's cool.
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  58. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guitar Ted View Post
    Sorry. Didn't realize that.

    I don't see a problem using a shim, but I understand not everyone will see that as being "proper". That's cool.
    Actually, I don't mind the shim at all. My 1" uses a shim. I don't really like the bolt on top and also the reach is a little long for me.

    Thanks for the heads up though. I didn't mean to imply that it wasn't a good lead on an altogether too rare part.

    Edit: he said he could make it without the hole in the framebuilding LD stem thread. That's great!
    Last edited by girlonbike; 06-14-2011 at 10:40 PM.

  59. #159
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    while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?

  60. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stylus View Post
    while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?
    I've never seen Dirt Drop stems in anything but 1"

  61. #161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stylus View Post
    while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?
    Something like this: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/pr...s-img20442.jpg

    Plus this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/2887955...in/photostream

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  62. #162
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clockwork Bikes View Post
    Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the "cap" on that Profile adapter is just part of the single machined piece?... and wouldn't allow your LD to slide over the top of it. Perhaps you should look at the Kalloy's or, better still, the Nitto's:

    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...ducts_id=10278
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...ducts_id=10277
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=7559
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=7454

    But, while we've got you here, a few questions on your new stem:
    - Custom sizes? If not, what's the stock rise/reach?
    - Can a customer specify bar clamp size or would you just tell them to shim down from the presumably 31.8mm?
    - Would you leave off the hole/setup for the Aheadset bolt if the customer was going to use it with one of these adapters?
    - What's the radius of the bend you're using?

  63. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by halaburt View Post
    Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like the "cap" on that Profile adapter is just part of the single machined piece?... and wouldn't allow your LD to slide over the top of it. Perhaps you should look at the Kalloy's or, better still, the Nitto's:

    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...ducts_id=10278
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...ducts_id=10277
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=7559
    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=7454

    But, while we've got you here, a few questions on your new stem:
    - Custom sizes? If not, what's the stock rise/reach?
    - Can a customer specify bar clamp size or would you just tell them to shim down from the presumably 31.8mm?
    - Would you leave off the hole/setup for the Aheadset bolt if the customer was going to use it with one of these adapters?
    - What's the radius of the bend you're using?
    1. All are custom reach and rise. Min. 120 rise for average reaches.
    2. Bar clamps can be 25.4, 26.0, or 31.8 and you may choose 1 or 2-bolt clamp.
    3. Compression bolt hole may be omitted.
    4. It was bent with a 3" c.l.r. tool but it's actually a little more.

    Thanks, Joel
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  64. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stylus View Post
    while on the subject, does anyone know a quill stem for a 1 1/8 steerer with 26mm bar clamp? Looking at the Nitto dirt drops but not shure if the quill diameter works, any other options?

    They aren't as tall as a dirt drop, but the nitto mt-11 is the best looking mtb stem ever, in my opinion. And they're only available in 1 1/8" quill. Also available from Ben's, in various extensions:

    http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...ducts_id=12318
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-nitto%2520mt-11%2520stem%25201.jpg  

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  65. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clockwork Bikes View Post
    1. All are custom reach and rise. Min. 120 rise for average reaches.
    2. Bar clamps can be 25.4, 26.0, or 31.8 and you may choose 1 or 2-bolt clamp.
    3. Compression bolt hole may be omitted.
    4. It was bent with a 3" c.l.r. tool but it's actually a little more.

    Thanks, Joel
    Thanks Joel. I hope these take off for you.
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  66. #166
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    I just finished a review of the RM-013 and the RM-014 at biketouringnews dot com. You might have to search for dirt drop if the post is no longer sticky (can't put a link here)

  67. #167
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    Looks like the guys across the pond have a similar thread going.

    retrobike :: View topic - the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  68. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Looks like the guys across the pond have a similar thread going.

    retrobike :: View topic - the unofficially cool MTB drop bar thread
    some there are against drop bars based on aesthethic issues.. well.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  69. #169
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    some there are against drop bars based on aesthethic issues.. well.
    Funny, I like drops more for the way they look than perform.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  70. #170
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    I like off road drops for the way they look AND the way they perform!
    -eric-

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  71. #171
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    I like off road drops for the way they look AND the way they perform!
    OR D bars gives a very diff feeling from the bike. I like them a lot. Handling and comfort are great.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  72. #172
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    OR D bars gives a very diff feeling from the bike. I like them a lot. Handling and comfort are great.
    Ya. Gets you a bit deeper into the bike. I really feel connected when I'm riding drops, though I find you need to put in a bit more effort to get the front end up if you're spending a lot of time with both wheels off the ground.
    -eric-

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  73. #173
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    I forgot about this thread. Here's my latest build, seen elsewhere but it belongs here too.

    '96ish Phoenix with WTB RM-2 bars (and yeah I know I need to lower the levers)




  74. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    Ya. Gets you a bit deeper into the bike. I really feel connected when I'm riding drops, though I find you need to put in a bit more effort to get the front end up if you're spending a lot of time with both wheels off the ground.

    same here: lifting the front wheel requires attention. everything else is easier on drop bars.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  75. #175
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    Quote Originally Posted by -Anomie- View Post
    I forgot about this thread. Here's my latest build, seen elsewhere but it belongs here too.

    '96ish Phoenix with WTB RM-2 bars (and yeah I know I need to lower the levers)



    Beautiful bike. I need a B52 like yours....

  76. #176
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    I got lucky on that, I just happened to walk into Pacific Coast Cycles right after Chuck got that B-52 from another customer. He offered, I bought without even thinking about it, since that's the only one I've ever found for sale. I'll let you know if he gets another one, PCC is kind of a magnet for stuff like that.

  77. #177
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    Great thread.

    As soon as I post 6 more times I can show you my 88 Fisher Procaliber SS with drops.

  78. #178
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    OK, now I can post it. 88 Fisher Procaliber now SS path and trail bomber.






  79. #179
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    Quote Originally Posted by RFC View Post
    OK, now I can post it. 88 Fisher Procaliber now SS path and trail bomber.

    Absolutely beautiful bike. Man, that is a long stem though. How big is it?
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  80. #180
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Absolutely beautiful bike. Man, that is a long stem though. How big is it?
    Yes, it is one damn long stem -- 150mm

  81. #181
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    Drop bar MB-1

    After a year and a half of tinkering and trying different configurations, I finally got this build the way I like it. Here are a couple of drop bar-related shots. I'll try to post more photos in the Official Bidgestone Thread - just as soon as I can find it (hint, hint...)

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-mb1-dirt-drop-1.jpg
    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-mb1-dirt-drop-2.jpg
    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-mb1-dirt-drop-3.jpg

    - 1993 Bridgestone MB-1 frame, 52cm.
    - Nitto Dirt Drop stem (designed by Grant Peterson, specifically for the '87 MB-1), and...
    - NOS 3TTT WB-1 dirt drop bars.
    - Suntour Command Shifters, to go with...
    - Full XC-pro drivetrain + hubs, bottom bracket and headset.
    - Dia Compe 287-Vs were the most comfortable non-plastic levers I could find, so...
    - Shimano XT V-brakes (kind of out of place, but worked with the levers).
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  82. #182
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    After a year and a half of tinkering and trying different configurations, I finally got this build the way I like it. Here are a couple of drop bar-related shots. I'll try to post more photos in the Official Bidgestone Thread - just as soon as I can find it (hint, hint...)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    - 1993 Bridgestone MB-1 frame, 52cm.
    - Nitto Dirt Drop stem (designed by Grant Peterson, specifically for the '87 MB-1), and...
    - NOS 3TTT WB-1 dirt drop bars.
    - Suntour Command Shifters, to go with...
    - Full XC-pro drivetrain + hubs, bottom bracket and headset.
    - Dia Compe 287-Vs were the most comfortable non-plastic levers I could find, so...
    - Shimano XT V-brakes (kind of out of place, but worked with the levers).
    it needs canti brakes!!
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  83. #183
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    it needs canti brakes!!
    I know, I know. I'm sensitive about that fact, too, which is why I tried to rationalize my decision in the description. I was hoping the fact that they're the correct finish would make the V-brakes less obvious - but no such luck, I guess. It's amazing how hard it is to find comfortable non-V brake levers that aren't plastic ("resin"). I'd be grateful for any suggestions.

    I'm hoarding a set of the factory correct Dia Compe 987 brakes for when I figure it out. The suntour headset has a taller stack-height than the original, so I'm going to need to figure out something for a hanger, too...

    In the meantime, I plan to ride the bike hard, so brakes is brakes in some ways...

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-mb1-brakes.jpg
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  84. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    It's amazing how hard it is to find comfortable non-V brake levers that aren't plastic ("resin"). I'd be grateful for any suggestions.


    Almost all road levers are non-V. There's dozens of choices.
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  85. #185
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    I really like the 987s i have been using for like 17yrs.. Grab a pair of cane creek drop bar levers (non V). If you can't find vintage stuff, shimano, campy, mavic, modolo, go to rivbike.com and chose from whatever they have there. Or velo orange.
    You've got a very nice bike. Those V brakes there are just wrong.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  86. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shayne View Post


    Almost all road levers are non-V. There's dozens of choices.
    I guess I should clarify:

    Levers that :

    1. Look appropriate for a vintage build - ie: silver levers and, did I mention, non-plastic bodies? (pretty much rules out anything current from Tektro/Cane Creek, Shimano, or Sram.) But maybe what I'm hearing is that v-brakes stick out worse than modern-shaped, plastic levers...

    2. Have big enough hoods to comfortably hold and use as an alternate hand position, for someone with man-hands. (pretty much rules out anything more than 15 years old and, therefore, most non-aero levers.) I know this isn't the way dirt-drop setups were historically used, but it's hard to give this option up once you get used to it. Just reduces fatigue, and is nice for climbing...

    3. Have a smooth, quality feel to the action, and a graceful, ergonomic shape to the levers. (pretty much rules out things like the other still-available lower-end dia compes - at least I can find) I know this is subjective though...

    You may be right, but I honestly can't find something I like. Any specific suggestions? I'd love a set of vintage Aero Gran Compes, but they're hard to come by. This is the kind of nit-picky, self-imposed challenge that's caused me to take a year and a half to put this thing together in the first place.
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  87. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    I really like the 987s i have been using for like 17yrs.. Grab a pair of cane creek drop bar levers (non V). If you can't find vintage stuff, shimano, campy, mavic, modolo, go to rivbike.com and chose from whatever they have there. Or velo orange.
    You've got a very nice bike. Those V brakes there are just wrong.
    Actually, check this out: I just posted pictures of another build (I've been busy this Fall) on another thread in another forum, where I did use some of the new Tektro (TRP) levers that I got from Riv., of all places. It's sort of VRC and drop-bar related, but I didn't try as hard to stay aestheticallly/period-correct I just built it with parts I that wanted and/or that I had on hand. Old Ibis. But DAMN, those TRP levers are comfortable - funny looking or not!!!!

    link to post

    This is what I like about this VRC forum: No shortage of people willing to share first impressions and good opinions! I guess I have my directive for the MB-1....
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  88. #188
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    nice mb-1.
    I'm planning a very similar conversion with my '91 mb-1. but I'll be using an on one midge bar, modern road bike brake levers and ultegra 8speed barcons.

  89. #189
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    That MB1 is amazing. It affects me in a way that I'm not even comfortable with. In fact, I have some dirt drops just sitting around and you've just inspired me to put them on something!

  90. #190
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    I may be the only one...but I like the V brakes. I'll try to take a close up of the cable hanger used to solve your problem if you go to canti brakes...It will mount in the front fork crown hole.

  91. #191
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    Hange it like this...[IMGhttps://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Zm1PDeVYvwI/Tig7v_J8VQI/AAAAAAAAJcA/NOrpw1bhK80/s400/HPIM2578.JPG[/IMG]

  92. #192
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    those tires are crap and the front brake isn't working as i would like it to, but otherwise it's just magnificent.

  93. #193
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    Sorry for the road tires but it's road season for me now... coming spring it will get it's proper tires again!

    The frame and fork are Klein Pinnacle from '88 or '89 It came with a beat-up non Klein paintjob so i was comfortable in having it stripped to raw aluminium.
    The brakes are a combination of IRD Switchback and Rotary and it also has an IRD seatpost. The rest is Deore XT with a Nitto dirtdrop stem. I went with STI's because barcons suck and WTB / DKG brackets are impossible to find. It's a rider so ergonomics are all important!



    Gr. Allard

  94. #194
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    Nice set up. I know its a winter rider right now...but skin wall knobbies and a Turbo or Ti Flite!

    I ran STI's on my first drop bar bike too. Works great.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
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  95. #195
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    Nice setup!

    Its probably the photo but something about that fork doesn't look right
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  96. #196
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    The forks are original Spinners for Klein and yes compared to the large frame and it's fat tubes they look very thin!

  97. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by Allard View Post
    The frame and fork are Klein Pinnacle from '88 or '89 It came with a beat-up non Klein paintjob so i was comfortable in having it stripped to raw aluminium.
    No paint looks nice! A good friend of mine bought a Klein in about '87, couldn't stomach their hideous paint jobs, and talked them into giving it to him un-painted. So it was actually a "factory option" of sorts. Here's a cropped shot of that bike that I found recently, from our first bike trip to Moab circa '88. I seem to recall being able to see grade markings on the tubing - from ALCOA perhaps? Kind of off-topic, but thought you'd be interested...

    The single consolidated official drop bar thread-clints-klein-moab-88.jpg
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  98. #198
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    Anyone make anything close to these today? The closest I could find was the Kelly Take Off
    Kelly Bike Company

    There is an interesting lever coming out for the cyclocross gang Retroshift.
    Thread:
    http://forums.roadbikereview.com/com...ft-264420.html

    Website:
    retroshift | Mud Proof Shifting. Designed by Goats!

    Youtube video, watch it. The video explains it well.
    Retroshift&#39;s Channel - YouTube



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  99. #199
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    I decided to throw some dirt drops on my Bontrager and it really sucked! The problem was I had convinced myself I would hate them, so when I ended up loving them I got all mixed up inside. It climbs like a spider monkey, cruises like a crown victoria and descends like a flying squirrel. Now, I'm left to pick up the pieces and decide how to rebuild the bike around them! The only issues I had were the vintage gran-compe levers, which look great but the cables were in the way and I need more meat to grab onto, so I think I'll use some modern Cane Creek's like rigidftw. Also, that heinous rastafied cinelli world champion tape needs to go!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-img_0553.jpg  


  100. #200
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    If you ran more housing, they don't get in the way. Glad you liked it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The single consolidated official drop bar thread-986c67b5.jpg  


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