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  1. #1
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    Rough 1997 Gary Fisher Tassajara

    Thanks for reading my post! I picked up a rough looking 1997 Tassajara with the intention of cleaning it up and turning it into a single speed for cruising around town and the occasional easy trail. I like the steel frame and the rigid forks and I like that it is Gary Fisher brand. I would like to hear some opinions on how expensive and whether or not you think it's worth it.

  2. #2
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    The rims, hubs and spokes seem to be good.

  3. #3
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    The stem is crap so I could add a better quill or an adapter with treadless? I do want some rise, but this looks obnoxious.

  4. #4
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    Probably get more street oriented tires.

  5. #5
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    Post #10, If I didn't fix this bike, my money would probably go toward a new rigid steel single speed 29er with disk brakes, so if my budget gets too close to the price of new, the Fisher is going on craigslist as is.

  6. #6
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    Here are some pics




  7. #7
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  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    This thread is likely the most attention that bike has ever had.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by yo-nate-y View Post
    this thread is likely the most attention that bike has ever had.
    lol!
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost, 26.8 x 400 IRD seatpost

  11. #11
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    My personal opinion is that the bike is sh!t and not worth the time of day. But, if you like it and want to turn it into a town cruiser thats great!
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost, 26.8 x 400 IRD seatpost

  12. #12
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    If you're putting so much into that that your outlay even comes close to the price of a new single speed 29er, you're over polishing a turd.

    If you're going to use it, I'd do the minimum to get it properly functioning and just ride it.
    Need: McMahon brake for roller cam mounts, Mountain Goat fork.

  13. #13
    Fat City Michael
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    That's like the best Department Store bike I've ever seen.
    FATMIKEYNYC
    STILL Looking For: NOS 176 Non-Drive Cook Bros RSR Crank Arm in silver

  14. #14
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    I think it's a worthy project as long as you don't go too crazy. It would make a fine cruiser/beater/loaner/lock-up bike, and you’ll learn a lot about wrenching in the process. You can pull it off on the cheap if you shop around and do the work yourself; a similar project set me back a little over $100 last year for new cables, tires, tubes, headset bearings, grips, saddle, seatpost, bottom bracket, brake pads, chain, and pedals. Some bicycle-specific tools are required if you get into working on the wheels/bottom bracket/cassette, etc., but you can do most of the work yourself with common tools.

    Anyway, some rough guesses on prices:

    Brake cables: $5-10 for the pair
    Chain: $10-15 (although your old one *may* be serviceable)
    Using old rear derailleur as a chain tensioner: $0 (there are several threads on MTBR on how to do this)
    Threadless stem adapter: $15
    Stem and bar: $15 and up, depending on preference
    Brake pads: $10-20 for front and back (Upgrading to a set of v-brakes and levers can be done for $40-50 if you want to go that route).
    Tires and tubes: $30 or so… less if you catch a good deal.

    If you’re shopping for parts online, one place that I recommend is Niagara Cycle Works (http://www.niagaracycle.com) in addition to the usual online retailers. They’ve got a good selection of parts, including lower priced stuff, and I’ve always had good luck with them.

  15. #15
    Hi.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raider47 View Post
    The stem is crap
    It's not just the stem that's crap.

  16. #16
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    I'm not surprised that the majority of the feedback is negative. I guess my thoughts were that most of the crap parts would come off in the conversion and the drive train could be modified for $100 or so, (spacers, cogs, tensioner and chain) leaving another $100 to make it pretty, (new stem, seat, grips, cables, rattle can paint job and tires). That would put me into this bike at about $250. Are my numbers off? Will it be a $250 turd?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raider47 View Post
    I'm not surprised that the majority of the feedback is negative. I guess my thoughts were that most of the crap parts would come off in the conversion and the drive train could be modified for $100 or so, (spacers, cogs, tensioner and chain) leaving another $100 to make it pretty, (new stem, seat, grips, cables, rattle can paint job and tires). That would put me into this bike at about $250. Are my numbers off? Will it be a $250 turd?
    Hmmm....250 wouldn't be too bad. The worst parts on the bikes would be gone. I would skip the paint though. Paint's in good shape and the rattle can would look worse.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raider47 View Post
    I'm not surprised that the majority of the feedback is negative. I guess my thoughts were that most of the crap parts would come off in the conversion and the drive train could be modified for $100 or so, (spacers, cogs, tensioner and chain) leaving another $100 to make it pretty, (new stem, seat, grips, cables, rattle can paint job and tires). That would put me into this bike at about $250. Are my numbers off? Will it be a $250 turd?
    I'm speaking on behalf of others here, but I think they'll agree (somewhat).

    The feed back is only negative in the sense that lots of us here collect, restore, and ride vintage mountain bikes. Nice mountain bikes. High end or hard to get bikes. Chasing childhood dreams and making them realities.

    Taking a low end bike that can be found at any junior college bike rack or thrift store and making it less capable as a mountain bike isn't much to get excited about. Its done often and not difficult to achieve.

    That being said, you don't seem to have any illusions about the bikes worth and are budgeting your modifications accordingly to fit your needs. There's nothing negative about that.

    Yes, you'll have a $250 turd. But it'll be your turd. A turd that has function and is useful for you....which kinda makes it less turdy.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost, 26.8 x 400 IRD seatpost

  19. #19
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    Agreed with the above, but I would also say that you can get a much better base bike, with much better parts for $250. If the Fisher is at least running and useful you should be able to sell it to offset some of that cost.

    If you want a project, by all means play with the Fisher (realizing its limitations). There are worse ways to spend money than playing with bikes...
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  20. #20
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    I've been on the fence about this but I decided to clean it up and sell or donate it and cut my losses. It is actually fully functional so someone can get some use out of it. I see a lot of nice rigid single speed bikes out there for about $800.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raider47 View Post
    I've been on the fence about this but I decided to clean it up and sell or donate it and cut my losses. It is actually fully functional so someone can get some use out of it. I see a lot of nice rigid single speed bikes out there for about $800.
    Half that for used if you're patient and have a good eye.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

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    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

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