Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 101
  1. #1
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865

    Pre -War Mercury project.

    I found this one today and I believe I may have bitten off more than I can handle. The frame is solid with no internal rust. The surface was media blasted at some point and has light surface rust but no pitting or flaking. It comes right off with steel wool. The seller believes it is a 38 or 39 but the stamp on the bottom bracket says 35. It is in need of alot of help but it is a cool frame that shouldn't be rusting away in some back yard. My intent is to do a retro-mod or a clunken-stein. Or maybe something like this :http://www.clunkers.net/scott41dx/scooterdx.html
    Is this frame worth the effort?





    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  2. #2
    illuminaughty
    Reputation: da'HOOV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,647
    looks good to me...nice flowing lines.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Looks cool. Eclipse manufacturing = Morrow as I'm sure the brake arm told you. Probably orig to that bike. I have no idea if Morrow hubs were considered good for klunkers or not. The rest of the parts are a real mish mash. Is that a New Departure black out front hub?


    You could have a framebuilder sink some brass into the drop out joints, and the cs/bb joints and be better off for it.. probably not a big deal.

    -Schmitty-

  4. #4
    horn doggie
    Reputation: scooderdude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    800
    Morrow hubs are THE coaster hub to use if you go that route. It has the largest swept area of all the coasters of the era, and was the one sought the most during that time. Think about the MDC from the south bay, Russ McMahon et al. The club was named after it (Morrow Dirt Club).

    Your frame is very similar to a '39 DX Schwinn in appearance, with straight down tube and twin curved top tubes on different arcs.

    I approve of your inspiration for a bike to build!
    Wanted:

    Potts, Potts, Potts

  5. #5
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Quote Originally Posted by scooderdude
    Morrow hubs are THE coaster hub to use if you go that route. It has the largest swept area of all the coasters of the era, and was the one sought the most during that time. Think about the MDC from the south bay, Russ McMahon et al. The club was named after it (Morrow Dirt Club).

    Your frame is very similar to a '39 DX Schwinn in appearance, with straight down tube and twin curved top tubes on different arcs.

    I approve of your inspiration for a bike to build!
    I thought you would approve. I have been admiring that bike for a while. As for the hub, it works and is in good shape so I would like to use it. I don't really want to hang gears off the bike. I am thinking of having the rear wheel built and doing a front to match with either a drum brake or if I decide to do a modern fork a disk. I think the idea of having some brass sunk in near the dropouts and the BB is a good idea to complete the overall smoothness of the bike. In its original incarnation none of those areas would have been visible. I will take it to a builder to make sure it is safe. Any ideas on who could look at her here in San Diego? Should I take it to Sky at velocult? Here are some more pics of what it would have looked like way back in the day.

    Pre -War Mercury project.-1937goodyearmercurywindow.jpg

    Pre -War Mercury project.-1937%2520mercury%2520with%2520mono%2520pod%25201.jpg

    Murray Ohio Manufacturing Company was founded in 1919 to make fenders, gas tanks, and other automobile parts.[1] The company was founded in Cleveland, Ohio, and the factory was organized by the UAW, AFL-CIO. In the mid-1930s, the company began production of bicycles, mostly for the youth market. Other products included pedal cars and electric fans. Until 1939, Murray manufactured all of its products for branding and sale by other manufacturers, especially Sears, Roebuck & Co.

    In 1939, Murray introduced its World's Fair Mercury bicycle at the New York World's Fair. Styled by the industrial artist and designer, Viktor Schreckengost, the streamlined machine, with an elaborate diecast metal headpiece, was finished in black, chrome, and polished aluminum, the deluxe version of the Mercury line. However, the bicycle was expensive, and was produced only in limited numbers until 1941, when war stopped consumer bicycle production.

    After the war, Murray became known as a manufacturer of low-cost bicycles, and placed its own brand on some products. Since the 1930s, Murray had been producing bicycles that, while stylistically different, imitated designs by other U.S. manufacturers, including Schwinn and AMF. This occasionally brought Murray into legal conflict with competitors, as when Schwinn filed against Murray for duplicating a Schwinn knurling and machining process on its rims.[2]
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  6. #6
    horn doggie
    Reputation: scooderdude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    800
    Apparently bike manufacturer competition was serious biz, what with [process] patent lawsuits and all.

    I'd bypass any sort of suspension fork. IMHO it would detract from it's look and the handling would suffer. If your current fork is forged, I'd use it, or find a Cook Bros. or Tange TX-1200 cruiser fork. You may want/need to lurk on a few of the BMX forums for leads; that's what I did to find the Tange on my bike. Those forks are out there, but it'll take some patuience and persistence.

    I think Sky would be a good resource for local builders who could do the brazing job for you. You might also be able to get a BMX-style fork made to the proper a-c and offset to mimic the Cook or Tange.
    Wanted:

    Potts, Potts, Potts

  7. #7
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Quote Originally Posted by scooderdude
    Apparently bike manufacturer competition was serious biz, what with [process] patent lawsuits and all.

    I'd bypass any sort of suspension fork. IMHO it would detract from it's look and the handling would suffer. If your current fork is forged, I'd use it, or find a Cook Bros. or Tange TX-1200 cruiser fork. You may want/need to lurk on a few of the BMX forums for leads; that's what I did to find the Tange on my bike. Those forks are out there, but it'll take some patuience and persistence.

    I think Sky would be a good resource for local builders who could do the brazing job for you. You might also be able to get a BMX-style fork made to the proper a-c and offset to mimic the Cook or Tange.
    Thanks for the info. The fork is forged and very heavy. It looks like you could drop a bomb on it as does the rest of the frame. I think you are right, I should use it. Schmitty it is a new departure hub. I took the Morrow hub apart and cleaned it. It is in outstanding condition. The bearings are perfect and the little bit of rust on the cover cleaned right off and it shined up like new. This one is going to keep me occupied for a long time but I am very exited. It will have to wait until I get my Brave done but that should give me time to aquire any parts I may need.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by scooderdude
    Morrow hubs are THE coaster hub to use if you go that route. It has the largest swept area of all the coasters of the era, and was the one sought the most during that time. Think about the MDC from the south bay, Russ McMahon et al. The club was named after it (Morrow Dirt Club).

    Your frame is very similar to a '39 DX Schwinn in appearance, with straight down tube and twin curved top tubes on different arcs.

    I approve of your inspiration for a bike to build!
    Ah, cool. Always wondered about the name, but thought it may have been for Morrow Bay (actually spelled Morro now that I check). I would guess it's a good hub to get klunky with.. huge in comparison to all others. I have tons of nos morrow parts.


    -Schmitty-

  9. #9
    the test dummy
    Reputation: insanitylevel9's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    3,503
    want
    Quote Originally Posted by craftworks750
    Riding a mtb is like a reset button, 10 mins in and there is nothing else in the world that matters.
    my bikes
    -
    Ben

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by scooderdude
    I approve of your inspiration for a bike to build!
    Same here! The 39 DX'ish style and the forged fork should work out nicely -- maybe even throw some truss rods on it for effect.

    It took me about a year to scare up the Tange TX-1200 I just found for my second klunker build, so patience is key.

    Good luck and get that Brave done so we can enjoy this build too

  11. #11
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy
    Same here! The 39 DX'ish style and the forged fork should work out nicely -- maybe even throw some truss rods on it for effect.

    It took me about a year to scare up the Tange TX-1200 I just found for my second klunker build, so patience is key.

    Good luck and get that Brave done so we can enjoy this build too
    Yes I definitely want to do truss rods. I want to use the Morrow hub so I may have a wheelset built with Araya rims and a drum up front or I could use the New Departure hub and get the bolt on canti mounts. That and a big wide bar with a brace and some motorcycle levers. I have a really old Brooks somewhere in storage that should do nicely. I really want to keep it as simple as possible.

    Any clues on where I can find a bottom bracket? Can you get bottom brackets so you can use a three piece crank? Scooter what crank would you use? Can the morrow hub be modified to use a non-skiptooth? I'm sorry but this build is uncharted territory for me. I have zero experience with these old rigs. I am going to find a local builder who can assess whether or not the frame and fork is safe and maybe put some brass around the dropouts
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  12. #12
    human dehumidifier
    Reputation: wv_bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    5,166
    Bottom bracket adapters are available. Something like this, although that particular one is kind of spendy
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2634
    A less expensive option
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2634
    NFL will punish America for its sins with Katy Perry as the Super Bowl halftime show.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    Yes I definitely want to do truss rods. I want to use the Morrow hub so I may have a wheelset built with Araya rims and a drum up front or I could use the New Departure hub and get the bolt on canti mounts. That and a big wide bar with a brace and some motorcycle levers. I have a really old Brooks somewhere in storage that should do nicely. I really want to keep it as simple as possible.

    Any clues on where I can find a bottom bracket? Can you get bottom brackets so you can use a three piece crank? Scooter what crank would you use? Can the morrow hub be modified to use a non-skiptooth? I'm sorry but this build is uncharted territory for me. I have zero experience with these old rigs. I am going to find a local builder who can assess whether or not the frame and fork is safe and maybe put some brass around the dropouts
    Yes on the non skip tooth.

    -Schmitty-

  14. #14
    horn doggie
    Reputation: scooderdude's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Posts
    800
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    Yes I definitely want to do truss rods. I want to use the Morrow hub so I may have a wheelset built with Araya rims and a drum up front or I could use the New Departure hub and get the bolt on canti mounts. That and a big wide bar with a brace and some motorcycle levers. I have a really old Brooks somewhere in storage that should do nicely. I really want to keep it as simple as possible.

    Any clues on where I can find a bottom bracket? Can you get bottom brackets so you can use a three piece crank? Scooter what crank would you use? Can the morrow hub be modified to use a non-skiptooth? I'm sorry but this build is uncharted territory for me. I have zero experience with these old rigs. I am going to find a local builder who can assess whether or not the frame and fork is safe and maybe put some brass around the dropouts

    If you use a square taper crank, you can use what is called a "euro conversion" bottom bracket. Any BMX or Schwinn shop can set you up. They range in price from < $10 to pricey if you go the Cook Bros. route, for example. I paid about $8 for my steel Tioga set up.

    I'm using a 180 mm TA crank with square tapers, because that's what they used back in the day. It can prove a fairly spendy way to go, though, depending on how clean the cranks are, but they come up on ebay regularly. They are a bit flexy and were known to break eventaully under hard use. You can find both 1/2 and 1" (skip tooth) pitch chainrings for these and other track cranks. Otherwise, look for a nice vintage mtb crank like a M730 or Deore Shimano in 175 or 180 if you choose the 1/2" pitch route. If I were to do it again, or if my TAs ever break, that's what I would/will do,

    If you choose the 1/2" pitch (what a standard chain is), it can be tough to find a 1/2" pitch rear cog for the Morrow. I lucked out and found a 1/2" cog still attached to its driver, the typical way you'll find them, so I simply swapped my 1" for the 1/2". Search ebay.

    I needed a 3/16" chain for the 1/2" Morrow rear cog, though; a 1/8" chain was too narrow. The 3/16" really a small motorcycle chain. I got mine from KMC. They're cheap, and heavy.
    Wanted:

    Potts, Potts, Potts

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by wv_bob
    Bottom bracket adapters are available...
    A less expensive option
    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2634
    That's the one I used with a 68x115 Bottom Bracket... but I'm planning on a 68x118 for Klunker #2 because the crankarms come scary close to the chainstays.

    The TA's are spendy, but it's hard to beat the look. Aemmer's Campy cranks look great too.

    One other nice thing about the TA's is that you have a lot of options for chainring sizes. I'm running a single 36T on Klunker #1 and am planning either 30T or 27T on the Klunker #2.

    I'm not sure when/if they'll become available as a stand-alone part, but Electra is making a TA Cyclotourist copy for their Ticino line of bikes... check out their website.


  16. #16
    Harmonius Wrench
    Reputation: Guitar Ted's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    8,094
    Velo Orange will also have a house branded TA copy out soon: http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2010...these-are.html

    I am watching this thread closely as I am building up a klunker myself from a '52 Schwinn DX.

  17. #17
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Thanks alot guys. This thread will serve as reference material once I get started on it. I have a few pairs of 730 cranks and lots of bottom brackets.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Anyone ever see a rear hub like a Morrow, adapted to the front for a front coaster/drum brake? The gear could be romoved and some kind of lever substituted. Might could be bad azz.

    -Schmitty-

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surly357's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    408

    neat frame

    try memory lane classics for the 1/2x1/8 cog. i believe the older 'pre stripe' bendix hubs used that thread also. ordered one last year- it was no big deal for them and it cost me less than ten bucks.

  20. #20
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Schmitty
    Anyone ever see a rear hub like a Morrow, adapted to the front for a front coaster/drum brake? The gear could be romoved and some kind of lever substituted. Might could be bad azz.

    -Schmitty-
    Seems like it could work but I noticed on my hub after I cleaned and repacked it that it takes a considerable amount of force to engage the brake and the stroke is pretty long. Not a problem when you are just backpedaling to brake but I would think a lever would be hard to pull and getting enough leverage would be tough. Not to mention this thing is heavy. A drum is probably lighter? Then again I know exactly squat about these.

    I am cutting and threading the steerer for the Brave today and beginning the build. I will probably take this frame down to Velocult this weekend and start hunting for parts. I do have an Araya 7x, Nitto dual clamp quill stem, M730 cranks, Magura moto levers etc. This thing is going to be a tank. The great thing is that there are so many different variations on the Clunker theme so you can't really do it wrong. The whole point is to just use what is available and what works.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surly357's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    408
    Quote Originally Posted by Schmitty
    Anyone ever see a rear hub like a Morrow, adapted to the front for a front coaster/drum brake? The gear could be romoved and some kind of lever substituted. Might could be bad azz.

    -Schmitty-
    poke around ratrodbikes.com and you'll see some interesting adaptations.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts
    Seems like it could work but I noticed on my hub after I cleaned and repacked it that it takes a considerable amount of force to engage the brake and the stroke is pretty long. Not a problem when you are just backpedaling to brake but I would think a lever would be hard to pull and getting enough leverage would be tough. Not to mention this thing is heavy. A drum is probably lighter? Then again I know exactly squat about these.

    I am cutting and threading the steerer for the Brave today and beginning the build. I will probably take this frame down to Velocult this weekend and start hunting for parts. I do have an Araya 7x, Nitto dual clamp quill stem, M730 cranks, Magura moto levers etc. This thing is going to be a tank. The great thing is that there are so many different variations on the Clunker theme so you can't really do it wrong. The whole point is to just use what is available and what works.

    The play is a wear/adjust issue. As for the force... it would have to be custom.. blue printed, balanced, stroked, high mod. Maybe a doubler in the cable pull, etc.

    As for weight.... who cares! It's a freekin old kids bike that weighs a boatload already! Heavier the better imo.

    -Schmitty-

  23. #23
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,865
    Quote Originally Posted by Schmitty
    The play is a wear/adjust issue. As for the force... it would have to be custom.. blue printed, balanced, stroked, high mod. Maybe a doubler in the cable pull, etc.

    As for weight.... who cares! It's a freekin old kids bike that weighs a boatload already! Heavier the better imo.

    -Schmitty-
    You're right, my XC rider mentality needs a timeout.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: biss-ness's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    229
    Quote Originally Posted by surly357
    poke around ratrodbikes.com and you'll see some interesting adaptations.
    http://ratrodbikes.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=28

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,640
    Quote Originally Posted by biss-ness

    Too bad there's no pics of the winning Colson klunker. Photobucket blows.

    I dug around a bit and couldn't find anyone adapting a coaster hub to a front hub.....


    -Schmitty-

Page 1 of 5 1 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •