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Thread: Painting a bike

  1. #1
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    Painting a bike

    Yes I know the pros and cons, mine is just a '90 Marin Muirwoods. I'm just curious if y'all would be interested in a thread from start to finish with pics?
    First things first. I do have access to a media baster. It will be done right.
    IF I get off my butt and do it!

  2. #2
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    Sand paper works fine. Media blasting is better. Repainting really freshens up a vintage bike. I have a model 2000 mountain bike that I plan to repaint soon.
    "I don't suffer from insanity!I rather enjoy it."

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    I have a 2001 (I think) Hotrock A1 FS 26" frame I recently had my brother blast and powdercoat. It turned out really nice and it's a good light frame. I installed a new headset and BB, now I just need to find the enthusiasm to finish it up.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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    Wish I could afford powdercoat. However the Duplicolor rattle cans are acrylic lacquer and good paint when applied properly (etching primer, filler primer, primer sealer, color) Fork is chrome and in good shape. Nothing needed there.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    Yes I know the pros and cons, mine is just a '90 Marin Muirwoods. I'm just curious if y'all would be interested in a thread from start to finish with pics?
    First things first. I do have access to a media baster. It will be done right.
    IF I get off my butt and do it!
    Yes.
    Always cool to see the steps that go into any project.
    Wanted: more of the same ... but different

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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    Wish I could afford powdercoat. However the Duplicolor rattle cans are acrylic lacquer and good paint when applied properly (etching primer, filler primer, primer sealer, color) Fork is chrome and in good shape. Nothing needed there.
    Getting a bicycle frame powder coated is $100. From your description of what you'd need to rattle can it the cost can't be much less.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    Getting a bicycle frame powder coated is $100. From your description of what you'd need to rattle can it the cost can't be much less.
    Media blast is free. One can of everything at 8 bucks a can. 40 bucks.

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    I have no idea what it costs to powdercoat (brother did it for free) but if it's only $100 it might be worth it. I know that's double what you expect to pay with the spray paint but I have to believe it'd hold up 10x better, in my experience anyway but I'm not the best rattle can'r around. Either way I'm sure we'd all appreciate progress pictures!

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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    Media blast is free. One can of everything at 8 bucks a can. 40 bucks.
    My time is far too valuable to consider the $60 difference a saving.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    My time is far too valuable to consider the $60 difference a saving.
    that's always a consideration. I'm semi retired. I need things to do.

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    Here's some recent pics
    Painting a bike-dscn0176.jpg
    Painting a bike-dscn0177.jpg
    Never did like the yellow and orange, but the price of the frame was cheap. The yellow faded right away. Needs refinish

  12. #12
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    You dont need all those primers. You need primer, paint, clear coat.

    I've spray painted a lot of bikes and they always come out looking awesome.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Painting a bike-img_9063.jpg  


  13. #13
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    It depends on what you want. Get the substrate right, the paint will be right. I am starting to consider powder coat.

  14. #14
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    I wouldn't bother with a fill primer. I'd just go with etch primer, paint and clear.

    Fill primer is useful when doing surfaces like a car panel, but on tubes, it's overkill, you'd be sanding most if not all of it off anyway. Any dents can be wiped over with auto body filler and sanded smooth.

    A good tip is to buy quality stuff and stick with the one brand. Another tip, is that with all the propellants and thinners in aerosols, to let that stuff bleed out and evaporate before going to the next coat. This may take some time. You can get great results with rattle cans but it takes a bit of effort.

    Grumps

  15. #15
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    Local place does powder, single color, bikes, $60.

    I'll never use wet paint again, even more so with steel frames.

    Of course, if you simply enjoy the process, and don't care about longevity, go for it, and yes, post pics.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy View Post
    I wouldn't bother with a fill primer. I'd just go with etch primer, paint and clear.

    Fill primer is useful when doing surfaces like a car panel, but on tubes, it's overkill, you'd be sanding most if not all of it off anyway. Any dents can be wiped over with auto body filler and sanded smooth.
    A good tip is to buy quality stuff and stick with the one brand. Another tip, is that with all the propellants and thinners in aerosols, to let that stuff bleed out and evaporate before going to the next coat. This may take some time. You can get great results with rattle cans but it takes a bit of effort.

    Grumps
    I don't have any dents. Taking all the paint off minimizes the need/s for fill, but I'm positive there will be a few spots. I do have some in stock as well as sealer, (again, not necessary, but...). Another consideration is final desired color. I'll be going a lighter shade of blue and gray primer will help here
    And yes, all one brand/type. I've been to the Duplicolor rodeo. Good stuff!

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    I did a bit of financial "Robbing of Peter" so to speak. I'm going 8 speed in the rear and changing the front gearing. I'll be running 11-28 with 46-34 up front. I decided to go with the SunRace 8 speed thumb set rather than just one. What I'm taking off is XT 7X3 and have a good market value as a set. Or I'll end up finding another project. Damn the bad luck.
    As long as I'm at it, I'm giving serious thought to PC. Now's the time. I'll never have to do anything again. And it really isn't that much more than paint when you can do your own media blasting.

    Yes, I splurged and got a proper set of decals.

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    Painting a bike-dscn0219.jpg
    I scraped the decals off and scrubbed the frame after this pic.

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    As it turns out, cost to get PC done = $65, $25 for material which I ordered yesterday.
    When they call and let me know they have the powder, off to the shop.

  20. #20
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    I just got a local quote from a pro frame painter for my 92 stumpjumper. For a near original metallic pink paint with clear coat over new decals it'll cost about $240. It's expensive but should last. Going from metallic green to metallic pink.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

  21. #21
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    Powder coating does not prevent rust from creeping under.... wet paint is better.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

  22. #22
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    Depending on what media you use to blast the frame will determine wether or not you need a filler primer. Anything other than nutshells, plastic or baking soda will leave a rough profile to the metal that will need to be smoothed. I recommend after you blast the frame to never handle it with bare hands until finished. Definitely use some type of etch primer on the bare metal. I've paint my fair share of bikes and thousand of cars. Automotive painter for 25 years.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rngspnr View Post
    Depending on what media you use to blast the frame will determine wether or not you need a filler primer. Anything other than nutshells, plastic or baking soda will leave a rough profile to the metal that will need to be smoothed. I recommend after you blast the frame to never handle it with bare hands until finished. Definitely use some type of etch primer on the bare metal. I've paint my fair share of bikes and thousand of cars. Automotive painter for 25 years.
    It's a plastic media. And yes, keep oils from your skin off the substrate.

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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    Powder coating does not prevent rust from creeping under.... wet paint is better.
    It's really only a concern with exhaust systems. The hot/cold cycles and all that moisture. For my bike, I doubt if I'll ever see anything. Place I'm using offers a lifetime guarantee anyway. And they've been around awhile.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    It's really only a concern with exhaust systems. The hot/cold cycles and all that moisture. For my bike, I doubt if I'll ever see anything. Place I'm using offers a lifetime guarantee anyway. And they've been around awhile.
    I picked the knowledge from Rody at Groovy Cycle Works.
    WTB: Bomber Z2 1 1/8 steerer, in good to excellent shape OR bomber rebuild kit.

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    Well.......
    Poor rear wheel has had it. Too many commuter years carrying at least 200# rider and gear. Hub shell and one cone pitted. Time to get an el cheapo, loosen it up, set ground zero, bring it up to tension and true. Be ready for another 45K.

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    I'm considering this Eastwood paint for a Schwinn Typhoon that I've made into a klunker

    2K Aero-Spray? Paints ? Aerosol Paints & Coatings - Eastwood

    Powder won't let me do decals with a clear coat. I've been quoted $250-300 to have the frame professionally painted.
    Last edited by JoeG; 12-08-2016 at 08:41 PM.

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    I got a wheel from Wheelmaster. It's has a hub with their logo and a Weinman Zac19 rim. Out of the box it's not in need of anything. Near perfect true and even spoke tension. Not an expensive wheel at all. Very good build. Worth considering if you need a good wheel without breaking your bank account.

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    I was impressed with the rear wheel. I also used a WM wheel for another project about a year ago. I decided to get a front to go with it. Now I have a set to use for another build (it's a disease). This front wasn't up to the standards of the previous two. I found it out of true. Just a bit. So I went ahead and loosened the spokes up, set ground zero and went from there. It's obvious that at least some form of spoke prep was used (just something a person who's built more wheels than dogs sniff butts can tell).
    Around a buck and a quarter gets a somewhat light weight and very heavy duty wheel set. And the difference in weight is +47 grams total compared to what came off. Add 4 spokes and another gear, a push IMO. It's always been a commuter. It's staying as such.
    And I have no excuse not to do that heavy camp tour I've been dreaming about since Jesus had training wheels

  30. #30
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    I like this color.

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    Painting a bike-dscn0233.jpg
    Good start

  32. #32
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    Looks good. I've done this to 3 bikes over the last 4 years.

  33. #33
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    So, the thread title is "Painting a bike".

    And what have we learned from this thread about painting a bike? Get it powder coated.



    Not a criticism so much as an observation.

    Grumps

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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy View Post
    So, the thread title is "Painting a bike".

    And what have we learned from this thread about painting a bike? Get it powder coated.



    Not a criticism so much as an observation.

    Grumps
    To be honest, I'm glad I started this thread. I was going to paint, but checking out the price, well, 68 bucks to have it powder coated? Yes, it woulda been more had I not had access to a media blaster, but still...,
    The average Joe can have it done for under 100.
    BTW I'd post more pics now that it's 'finished' except for two things. Lousy pics. I had a choice. Buy a new camera or do my bike. Duh, no brainer.
    The other reason, I've been riding it in the glop. It's a mess! Just the way a bike should be. Does really well in snow with tires @ 40PSI.

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    Cool thread. I'm going to be painting my 90s Trek ZX6000. How do you remove OEM stickers that are under the clear coat? Hair dryer and blade is not working for me. Just sand them off?

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    As long as the surface is smooth. Sanding is fine. There is a problem and it's closely related to NBS or new bike syndrome. You wanna wash the tiniest bit of dirt off and keep it purty. I'm sure I'll get over it.

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    This is before I went and got the dang thang dirty!
    I've only done 86 miles over 7 shake down cruises. Just getting it all happy.
    I'm very happy with the 46/34 front with the 11/28 rear. The Sunrace 8sp shifters are OK. Front is a bit long in throw and I had the rear cable a bit loose. Had to wait till after I got home first time out. Gave it a little tighten and it's staying put. Shifts like buttah! Higher high, lower low and better spacing. Still using the Deore DX mid length rear and an old SunTour VX front that just plain works. The system and I came to an understanding real quick and I think it's going to be left alone, hopefully for another 25 years! Do wish for an adjustment at the rear shifter. I'll live with it.

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    Anyone powder coat a frame with dings? That's what sent me to the paint shop.

    Nice choice of blue on that bike. Looks great.

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    I think with PC you'd have to live with the dings. Bondo is hidden by filler primer, primer sealer, topcoat, you get the idea.

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    Love the blue.







    Here's my commuter, an old Trek ZX6000. Took advantage of the record high temps here in South Dakota last weekend and finally got it painted.

    My question is... It looks really good, but some parts of it feel smooth, while other parts feel a little rough, like fine sandpaper. What can I do about that? I used multiple light coats of paint, then clear coat about 30-40 minutes later. No sanding between coats.

    Thanks.

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    Update. Only 150 miles total so far, life's been getting in the way AND....sorry. Icy roads = no for me, even if I wanted to get studded tires. Cars don't always have them and I really don't wanna be in one's path.
    But the Sun Race 8sp thumbies works just fine, even without a cable adjuster on it.
    Everything's settled in and it rides sweeter than ever.
    Got mud? Hose works fine.
    The PC seems to shed dirt easily and the color doesn't show it. I feel it was a worthwhile, albeit altruistic expenditure.

  42. #42
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    Resurrecting this thread w a Q:
    Recommendations appreciated for a vintage bike frame painter.
    Shipping OK, not in a hurry,but real interested in quality results.
    TIA

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssulljm View Post
    Resurrecting this thread w a Q:
    Recommendations appreciated for a vintage bike frame painter.
    Shipping OK, not in a hurry,but real interested in quality results.
    TIA
    Sully,

    you can use two local guys: ed litton or Rick @ d&d. Rick even has decals for your ritcheys. Best wet painter in the country is arguably joe bell, imho. very bummed to see spectrum sell off it's finishing business and have no feedback on the buyers...mosaic?

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    I'm restoring my '97 Bontrager Privateer Comp and was quoted $625 for paint, $125 for decals. I'm not saying where that was. I also need a paint (and decal) recommendation that is a little more inline with the bikes intended useage.

    I'll never powdercoat anything again after the terrible results I got on a previous restoration. On that I had rust coming through the powder coat in less than a year. Those parts were sand-blasted FWIW.

  45. #45
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    Working on a Specialized Vegas Dirtboy "Taxi Yellow" paint project for last three months. Clearcoat is drying, need to wetsand, M105 and M205.

    Paint remover - $12
    Sandpapers - $20 (150,500,1000,1500,2000,2500)
    Towels, pads ... $25
    Bondo - $5
    Wax and Grease Remover - $10
    Self Etching Primer - $10
    Sherwin Williams Color Matching Single Coat - $50 ($25/can)
    USC 2x clear coat glamour high-gloss - $23
    Mcquire Ultracut Compound M105 - $14+
    Mcquire Finishing Compound M205- $13
    Decals - $20 (Generic Specialized)

  46. #46
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    Hey there Orange, $625 for wet paint, especially if it's just one color, seems about $200-250 or so more than it should be, and those decal prices are way off. There a guy in the UK (retrodecals.com) where I have got a couple sets, I think $40 or so. There are reputable powder coaters and I think originally Bonty's were P-coated, but I could be wrong. Cheers, good luck and shop around.

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