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  1. #1
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    Options for 130mm rear mtb hub?

    I have an old Schwinn MTB with 130mm rear spacing that I would like to get back on the road as a beater. I've been out of the loop for a while so I'm getting up to speed on what's available. I'm also trying to explore more economical routes by using cheaper parts or what I have on hand.

    Very shortly I will have a pair of 26" hoops that could be built into a wheelset with some cheaper road hubs. Is this going to be my best bet beyond finding a vintage 26" wheelset?
    Ventana El Rey
    On-One Inbred EBB SS
    Felt F35

  2. #2
    He be a moose too.
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    It would probably help to post a few pictures so people can see what you have an offer suggestions. The mob here loves pictures and they really can be worth 1000 words.

    A far as 130mm spacing, why not buy a 130mm hub. Plenty of places to pick them up used and it's not hard to find one in good condition at reasonable prices. No need to buy a cheap set of road hubs when a nice XT or DX hub can be had.
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  3. #3
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    Some higher end 80s mtbs also used Dura Ace road hubs. But as pwgn mentioned, you can find XT and others in 130mm too. DX should be cheap and are quite nice.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
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  4. #4
    CS2
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    DX are nothing more than XT with different seals. Which translates to about Ultegra. I'm for the road bike hubs unless you're going to be in really wet or muddy conditions. If it's for a commuter then by all means road hubs. Good luck
    1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1992 Stumpjumpers. 1995 Waterford 1200, 1999 Waterford RSE, plus a garage full of steel frames.

  5. #5
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    As requested, here are some pics:

    Schwinn High Plains frame (circa 1990)
    True Temper tubing, lugged
    1" steer tube
    130mm rear dropout spacing

    The wheel in the one pic represents a 26" wheelset that I may be dismantling for a 29er build. The hubs are Hope XC Disc and will go to the 29er. The spokes may not be able to be reused but the hoops are perfectly fine. I may strip the red or paint over it to match this frame better.

    It was never a high end bike so I need to keep that in mind. The rear needs a 130 mm hub or I suppose I could look into "setting" the rear triangle to 135 but I hate to mess with the integrity of the frame. It will never see a trail again, mostly gravel paths and pavement. I have other bikes for trail duty.









    Ventana El Rey
    On-One Inbred EBB SS
    Felt F35

  6. #6
    Suspension? We don't....
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    It is easy to replace the axle on a seven speed hub (135mm) to six speed one (130mm). Cutting 5mm off of a 135mm will also work. You will have to reduce the spacing on the non drive side. If the hub is part of a wheel then you will need to re-dish. This is in reference to older pre-parallax style hubs.

  7. #7
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    As others have said, there are plenty of old XT hubs that are spaced at 130mm. Or road hub made in the past 20 years should be 130mm.

    I'd go with a road hub.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  8. #8
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    I'm starting to find some options but many appear to be Uniglide. Some claim to be Hyperglide and Uniglide compatible. I thought it was either one or the other unless you started swapping parts (not something I want to get into)?
    Ventana El Rey
    On-One Inbred EBB SS
    Felt F35

  9. #9
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    Quote Originally Posted by zanq View Post
    I'm starting to find some options but many appear to be Uniglide. Some claim to be Hyperglide and Uniglide compatible. I thought it was either one or the other unless you started swapping parts (not something I want to get into)?
    If it's uniglide-only, skip it.

    Early hyperglide hubs were also compatible with uniglide casettes (the end of the hyperglide freehub is threaded). These will work fine. The only issue is that you can not run an 11T rear cog on this type of hub. "Hyperglide-C" was the first to allow the use of an 11T cog, but was not Uniglide compatible.

    Here's a picture to explain it (stolen from Sheldon Brown):
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  10. #10
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    I think most freewheel mountain bike hubs through the early 90s were still 130mm. Look for Suntour XC Pro or Mavic 501 hubs, and use a 7-speed freewheel. These were both GREAT hubs, and you don't need more than 7 speeds anyway! I know you said you don't need high-end components, but you might as well get them if you're going to the trouble of building wheels and if the price is right.
    We still hang bike thieves in Wyoming [Pedal House]

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by iamkeith View Post
    I think most freewheel mountain bike hubs through the early 90s were still 130mm. Look for Suntour XC Pro or Mavic 501 hubs, and use a 7-speed freewheel. These were both GREAT hubs, and you don't need more than 7 speeds anyway! I know you said you don't need high-end components, but you might as well get them if you're going to the trouble of building wheels and if the price is right.
    Thanks! Suntour may be a tall order. It seems that anyone selling Suntour XC Pro on ebay know what they have and command a high price.

    There are the items I'm watching now:

    Shimano 600

    Shimano 600

    Shimano XT (uncertain if Hyperglide compatible)

    Campagnolo Record

    Considering everything that I own is Shimano, I'm not sure that adding Campy to the mix is wise.

    I forgot to mention that I need 32H front and rear if they are going to work with the rims I already have.

    Thanks!
    Ventana El Rey
    On-One Inbred EBB SS
    Felt F35

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