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  1. #1326
    Sergeant Spandex
    Reputation: lewisfoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eastcoaststeve View Post
    I really like that...clean, purposeful, and looks fast standing still.
    The R/W/B paintjob brings back some great memories.

    Did Tom do any of the work on the frames that have the "by Ritchey Mountain Bikes" decal?

    Steve
    I don't know, but I have seen frames with decals that say "Handmade by Tom Ritchey" which this does not have.

    I have been riding with the previous owner for 10 years and I was shocked when he wanted to sell given that he has had it for 20 years. It was originally ridden by one of the employees of Bud's Bike Shop here in Claremont which was a high end shop.

  2. #1327
    artistic...
    Reputation: colker1's Avatar
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    a 2.3 tire will mellow out the front just enough..
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  3. #1328
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    For the most part, I believe with the P series frames, Tom created the fillet brazed Team Models.
    Seek: Koski Trailmaster. Breezer Series 2, or 3. Fillet brazed Ibis Custom. Cunningham Racer. Otis Guy (but not that softride model). That's all I need I don't need anything else... except... except for an old Mountain Goat bar stem combo. And that's all I need. I don't need anything else. Except.....

  4. #1329
    Sergeant Spandex
    Reputation: lewisfoto's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by colker1 View Post
    a 2.3 tire will mellow out the front just enough..

    Thanks for the suggestion, will try that.

  5. #1330
    gobsmacked Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by lewisfoto View Post
    Thanks for the suggestion, will try that.
    Nice! Classic. I love my P-23 and I have 2.3 tires up front and it does fantastic.
    Wanted: WTB rollercams and brake bridges

  6. #1331
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    1987-8 Super Comp - 8C146

    Got this as a frame and fork.

    18 inch and I think it is an 87 or 88. Serial Number 8C146

    It had lots of paint missing. But I just couldn't repaint it. A lot of the original paint was still there so I decided to have some fun with it and just touch it up with some contrasting colours. I am hoping for a cure to be discovered someday for badly chipped bikes.

    I have decided to call the paint scheme 'chipoflauge'.

    It looks interesting in person and since I will use this often I now don't worry about getting additional chips on it.

    For the rebuild I used all build correct and period correct parts, with the exception of tires (Ritchey Cross Bite) and pedals (MKS 2000 Graphite). Cable ends still need cutting and soldering.

    Most components are Shimano XT - M730 Series
    Seat Post: Suntour XC
    Seat: Turbo
    Rims: Mavic Rando M5 with XT hubs
    Grips: Grab On

    More photos here: Ritchey Super Comp 1987 Photos by rmtb | Photobucket

    Constructive comments always welcome.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-p1010983.jpg  

    Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-p1010984.jpg  

    Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-p1010987.jpg  

    Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-p1010991.jpg  

    Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-p1020005.jpg  


  7. #1332
    Sergeant Spandex
    Reputation: lewisfoto's Avatar
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    Great old bike, although I am not too keen on the Chipoflage. A halfway decent painter can spot paint the worst areas for a pretty reasonable price. I had a top tube painted for about $80, it was flawless and allowed me to retain the original decals.
    Last edited by lewisfoto; 07-07-2014 at 08:42 AM.

  8. #1333
    gobsmacked Moderator
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    Sq root of 2 is an excellent paint restorer that looks like he's just doing something different. Good for you for not repainting it. Great workhorse of a bike.
    Wanted: WTB rollercams and brake bridges

  9. #1334
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    I would like to share with you a picture of something you don't get to see very often. After removing the seat stays on this Ritchey (Timber Wolf?) frame, you can see how Tom would modify the drop outs to suit the angles he needed. Kind of cool i think.

    Name:  Ritchey+dropout+closeup.jpg
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    Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread-img_20140701_171114.jpg

  10. #1335
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    That's a great picture. Thanks for sharing that
    Technology dragass

  11. #1336
    Stokeless Asshat
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    So of course the question is what prompted the repair?
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  12. #1337
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    Rusted stays. See thru.

  13. #1338
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    YO, I think the Chipoflage is very artsy, looks intentional and great...kind of like one of those silly FC bikes! good-on-ya.
    p

  14. #1339
    sftrydr
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    Anyone that rides a bicycle knows what he's talkin about:

    Brian Vernor and Tom Ritchey | The Radavist

  15. #1340
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    Re: Official (Tom) Ritchey Picture Thread

    Was picking up my old 88 wtb hubs with spanky new bearings in them today, and look what I found. Possibly an 84 with the Rocky Mountain sticker that the shop owner just bought. Almost mint!




  16. #1341
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    Ritchey bull moose bar stem clamp issue

    Gentle Riders of the Ritchey persuasion, I have questions.

    About the bull moose bars and attachment to the fork stem. On my 81 Ritchey, the bull moose bars and stem were one. It was tightened the same way as other quill-type stems. On the 84 SC, it is a clamp that is part of the bar and tightened with a rather small hex-headed bolt.

    Photos of the 84 bar-stem clamp:



    I got dumped, most unceremoniously, while mashing up a hill and the bars simply slipped around. I have 3 broken ribs and an AC-shoulder separation from that moment. Moreover, Id made a point to tighten that bolt before the ride, as Id been eyeing it as a potential problem point.

    Ill also point out that a proper adjustment of the headset requires you to remove the bars. The specialized wrenches for this headset cannot get past the broad base of the bars. I find that annoying, as well.

    How long did Ritchey build the bull moose bars like this? As noted, it wasnt this way on my 81, but I dont have personal experience with too many other specimens. My only other Ritchey is an 80 road bike.

    Is there a trick to getting this tight enough to not slip? Seems a weak design for an off-road bike, no? Does one sand the stem to a rough state (and risk it being permanent)?

    The bike, btw, emerged from the crash with nary a mark. I think I instinctively held it aloft while I slide in the gravel.

  17. #1342
    Trying to grow a mustache
    Reputation: Z-Man's Avatar
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    Let me be the 1st to offer my quill bullmoose as a trade....
    Sorry about the injury, sanding sounds like a good idea...
    Vintage-Retro-Pragmatist

  18. #1343
    Trying to grow a mustache
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    Not trying to talk you out of the sweet deal I just offered you, but standard wrenches fit that headset as well...
    Vintage-Retro-Pragmatist

  19. #1344
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeicaLad View Post
    I got dumped, most unceremoniously, while mashing up a hill and the bars simply slipped around. I have 3 broken ribs and an AC-shoulder separation from that moment. Moreover, Id made a point to tighten that bolt before the ride, as Id been eyeing it as a potential problem point.
    Hi 0wen-

    I don't have answers to your questions but wish you a speedy recovery. Crashing due to vintage bike failure weighs more and more heavily on my mind as time goes by...

    -Brian

  20. #1345
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    Mostly I worry about crashing due to vintage rider failure.

    This came as a complete surprise!

    But it is the design question that keeps nagging at me. This approach cannot have lasted long. . . did it?

  21. #1346
    the new Gilbert Grape
    Reputation: laffeaux's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeicaLad View Post
    But it is the design question that keeps nagging at me. This approach cannot have lasted long. . . did it?
    The bars that clamped onto the brazed-in "nub" (like you have) came on the early bikes ('81 and earlier) and on some of the higher-end bikes through 1983. It's a slightly lighter set-up since there is no quill.

    I've not had any issues with my bars slipping after tightening the bolt to a "reasonable" tightness (same force that I'd apply to any standard bolt on a stem). You may want to check to see if the threads are stripped not allowing you to tighten the bolt. Or perhaps the brazed-in nub is damaged or slightly under-sized.

    I don't do crazy rides on the old bikes, but I've ridden them off-road and raced them a couple of times at Keyesville with no issue.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  22. #1347
    Sergeant Spandex
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    Apologies for the completely off topic question but what type of Leicas do you have?

    I have a small collection, M3, IIIc etc. Used to have some pretty rare stuff but I sold most of it on some time ago.

  23. #1348
    the new Gilbert Grape
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeicaLad View Post
    Ill also point out that a proper adjustment of the headset requires you to remove the bars. The specialized wrenches for this headset cannot get past the broad base of the bars. I find that annoying, as well.
    That headset design is newer than the bike, so blame the wrenches not fitting on Shimano not on Ritchey. Also as Z-Man said, standard 1-inch wrenches work just fine.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  24. #1349
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    I thought my '81 was different, but among my very few photos of it I can see that it was similar. I never had a problem. This occurred waaaay too easily, so something is clearly amiss.

    I also fear discovering it an unobtanium thread and head size. The seat post bolt on my '80 road Ritchey is also totally unobtanium. I treat it very, very, very carefully. I was unsuspecting on this one -- or insufficiently suspecting, to be more precise.

    Oh, and I was actually on pavement when this occurred. Even less reason for it to have turned loose, not to mention a harder surface to be slammed onto.

    I am one sore dude, and very annoyed.

    Ah, well. Battle scars.

  25. #1350
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightshade_rider View Post
    Hi 0wen-

    I don't have answers to your questions but wish you a speedy recovery. Crashing due to vintage bike failure weighs more and more heavily on my mind as time goes by...

    -Brian
    You will have plenty of time next weekend to contemplate this as you descend into Castle Creek off the back side of Pearl Pass. As the Witz said, "Rocks! Biiig Rocks!"

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