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  1. #1
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Nishiki Alien - Headtube size

    Can anyone tell me whether the Nishiki Alien (the models with the bolt on chromo rear end onto the al front end are 1" or 1 1/8" headtubes.

    I know the pros and cons of e-stay bikes, I don't need a run-down on that, just want to know the headtube size.

    Thanks,
    Grumps

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: coconinocycles's Avatar
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    I remember those & they were solidly in the 1" head tube era.
    - Steve Garro, Coconino Cycles.
    steve garro el jefe/el solo. coconino cycles www.coconinocycles.com www.coconinocycles.blogspot.com

  3. #3
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Cheers, thanks!

    Grumps

  4. #4
    Neo-Retro Forever
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    The alloy front/cromo rear were all 1 1/8 inch

  5. #5
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    Quote Originally Posted by richieb View Post
    The alloy front/cromo rear were all 1 1/8 inch
    Even better, my Mag 21 will fit it.

    Excellent...

    Grumps

  6. #6
    Neo-Retro Forever
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    Watch the head tube - some of those frames weren't heat-treated.

    Check carefully for cracks.

  7. #7
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    I'll leave it in the sun.

    Seriously, that's a great tip, I appreciate that advice.

    The one I'm looking at has had a repair to the inside of the headtube so I assume a crack formed so I'm going to take a wild guess that it's one of the non-heat treated ones. Shame.

    Grumps

  8. #8
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    Reminds me of Ellison frames built in Houston, Texas,I had a1990 model and was great until the top tube snapped just in front of the seat cluster. I heard later that he used a pizza oven for heat treating. Look closely at any 6061 aluminum frames for any cracks.

  9. #9
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    The first, all steel Alien may have been a 1", but all the alloy framed Aliens were 1 1/8". BTW, the Ariel, which was the continuation of the former Alien steel frame, Also has a 1 1/8". At least it did by 1992.

  10. #10
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    so... are we saying 1 1/8 headset... and that being said, should work with modern 1 1/8 threadless rock shox forks? and about about bottom bracket information? what is compatible... I ask as there is not that much info on the internet... looking at buying a 1993 Nishiki Alien... and would love to fully rebuild it with newer parts from current era (excluding disc brakes)

  11. #11
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Depends on the year.

    If you have a frame already, measure yours. If not, sounds like steels were 1", alloys went to 1 1/8". I could be wrong, but that;s my read on the info as it sits.

    A buddy of mine bought a 1" version, and had a machine shop use a wire EDM to neatly shave it off, leaving proper curves for a 1 1/8" steerer to be welded on.

    Anything can be done, just how badly do you want it.

    Modern forks will mostly be too long to maintain proper HTA. Any longer than 80 mm will take you into that range, at least to my way of thinking. Threaded vs threadless, the headset cups are the same regardless, it's the fork steerer that needs to match the style. All modern forks of any decent quality will be threadless.

    Have fun with it!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  12. #12
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    thanks for all the help... yes, I believe it is the newer 1993 7005 aluminum frame... good condition for its age, but it could use TLC and some newer parts... complete overhaul... dilemma is there is not much info on it, on the internet.. I will also have to figure out more about bottom bracket compatibility... most of my bikes are from 2000.... and 1993 is very vintage...

  13. #13
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    All the alloys are 1 1/8", so you're fine there.

    Last year or two of steel were that too, but kind of a moot point now.

    BB is standard enough, the only dimension that'll matter is with of the shell, 68 or 73mm. Modern cranks accommodate both with spacers on the BB, if you're sticking with square taper, ISIS, Shimano splined, etc, you'll just need to order proper shell width....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  14. #14
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    mendoncyclesmith... thanks for all the help.. a discussion on bottom brackets would lead to another thread... ha ha... just got back into cycling... late 2012... being in S. Korea with the USAF... where we cannot drive... so confused between modern outboard bb (hollowtech II)... square taper... so forth... (my local LBS... ha ha, sometimes we have a language barrier).... sometimes with bb your only option is to remove old one and just take measurements... but was told sometimes older frames that normally use square taper will not work with modern stuff such as octalink and/or outboard bb...

  15. #15
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    Frames that were designed with square taper in mind will work with Octalink, ISIS or outboard. They have the same threading, which is a BSA thread of either 68 or 73mm shell width. Most outboard BBs will be for a 73mm and come with spacers to fit a 68mm. The big thing is to ensure the ends of the crank, as well as the chainrings, clear the chainstays. With outboard, that is pretty much a given, with square taper, Octalink and ISIS there is a range of axle lengths.

    Threaded shells will not work with BB30, or any of the press-fit standards.

    One difference is the Italian BB shell, which is found on European road bikes and maybe some early European MTBs.

    Grumps

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