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Mountain Goat Deluxe Problem.

4K views 25 replies 14 participants last post by  miles 
#1 ·
i have a stuck seatpost in the goat deluxe that i bought last year. i am just now getting ready to re-built the bike with nicer components and when all that is done i'd like to be able to ride it (seat is too low).

the post is an XTR. has anybody else had a stuck post in a goat deluxe and can offer assistance? can anybody send me a photo of what the seat post binder thingie innards look like so i know what i'm dealing with. it is stuck too. actually i think it is the seat post binder thing that is stuck which is what is keeping the seapost from moving. thanks
 
#2 ·
vdubbusrider said:
i have a stuck seatpost in the goat deluxe that i bought last year. i am just now getting ready to re-built the bike with nicer components and when all that is done i'd like to be able to ride it (seat is too low).

the post is an XTR. has anybody else had a stuck post in a goat deluxe and can offer assistance? can anybody send me a photo of what the seat post binder thingie innards look like so i know what i'm dealing with. it is stuck too. actually i think it is the seat post binder thing that is stuck which is what is keeping the seapost from moving. thanks
Bad news El Guapo. Here's what the nifty little buggers look like. as you can probably already make out, the holes are the same diameter, or you'd be able to tap one side out, then the other. You might still be able to if you go in with a smaller dia rod, on an angle, but you might munch up the edge a little, or worse, the bore. They're two damn solid blocks of steel, & I wouldn't want to risk deforming the frame by tapping one of the blocks on an angle. That perfectly smooth ID of the ST was milled with a boring head (no off-the-shelf construction here!), and it'd be a shame to mangle it if it's not already. Still, it'd be easier than the dealing with the repercussions of drilling one side out, to give you a perpendicular face to tap against with a larger rod. If the blocks are touching though, you wont know where to stop drilling, and you'll put a counter*SINK* in the opposing surface that you'd really rather keep flat. Unfortunately you have no way of knowing. If you try to carve out the seatpost that's in there now, you'll have to do it in at least a couple peices, usually three is minimum, and you're nearly guaranteed to muck up that ultra close tolerance seattube ID. If I were you, I'd just give the frame to your friendly component maker buddy who can fiddle with it, and get something nice like a Santa Cruz bullit for yourself instead. It's old anyway, who wants that? :)
 

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#3 ·
hmmmm, looks like i have a real headache on my hands. those photos are perfect. i'll let you know if i figure it out. thanks!
 
#4 ·
i just cought myself staring at your frames lines. thats one sexy frame you've got there!
 
#5 ·
vdubbusrider said:
i just cought myself staring at your frames lines. thats one sexy frame you've got there!
Yes. Those lines, how they mesmerize. I especially like the underside of the wishbone. Here are a few more lines for ya...

That junction is definitely one of my favourite parts of any frame ever. The gussets on the backside of the Big One Inch fork blades, the wavy kink of the early Merlin seatstays, the weird middle section of the Yeti Ultimate (& that housing stop!), the segmented tubing on the Bontrager Ti Lite, the entire front end of a Klein Adroit, the lugs on a Potts Type II, dropouts on a Trimble, the angled square segmented chainstays of an early Manitou, nearly every millimeter of a Cunningham... it's a little like looking at women. You never stop seeing things you like, but every once & again you see something, maybe the corner of someones mouth or a shoulder blade or something, and it just becomes burned in your brain that it's the most amazing behind the earlobe neck you've ever seen, and you're hit by a sudden incomprehensible sense of distance from whatever it was your life was about a moment before. I suppose I should seek help...

Can't wait to see yours. The junctions look like molten glass. Can't wait to see what yours turns out like.
 

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#6 ·
Lots of liquid wrench!!! (penetrating oil)

vdubbusrider said:
i have a stuck seatpost in the goat deluxe that i bought last year. i am just now getting ready to re-built the bike with nicer components and when all that is done i'd like to be able to ride it (seat is too low).

the post is an XTR. has anybody else had a stuck post in a goat deluxe and can offer assistance? can anybody send me a photo of what the seat post binder thingie innards look like so i know what i'm dealing with. it is stuck too. actually i think it is the seat post binder thing that is stuck which is what is keeping the seapost from moving. thanks
Up thru the bottom bracket and the top of seatube. Keep saturating it once every few hours for a couple days then try like hell to twist that seatpost off, Leverage is your friend here. if you can get a piece of pipe mounted somehow on the seatpost parrallel to the top tube. and twist!!! I dont remember how the seat clamps on those XTR seatpost you may have to get creative here. Worst comes to worst I would get a POS seat mounted on that post and whack the nose of that thing with a big lead shot hammer. (within reason of course!!!)
Plan B: have someone clamp it to a bridgeport then drill and ream away.

Plan C: If its a 19" Sell it to me ;)
 
#8 ·
It might really be hard to take it out. One way to get leverage is clamping the seatpost and use the frame as a T-bar. Not an elegant way to do it, but I had this work on some stuck seatpost. Luckily those were on old and cheap frames. Of course you might ruin the seatpost by clamping it, but I would prefer a throw-away seatpost over a DeLuxe MG. Drenching it with penetrating oil is always necessary. Good luck.
 
#10 ·
Unsticking seatpost on MG

Very often the parts that clamp the post on MG's bite pretty tight because of their mechanical advantage, and you might have to take a soft drift of about 5mm diameter, and tap each of those parts AWAY from the centerline of the bike, inserting the drift through their center holes. If the post comes free then, make sure there are no burrs or sharp edges on the clamping pieces that might be causing lack of movement before re-assembly.
On my deluxes I often have to loosen everything off well, then twist and pull up on the saddle before the clamp really frees up. Almost a 2 person job sometimes, and not exactly a "quick" release.
 
#11 ·
thanks for the info guys. i did manage to get it free. i jammed an easy-out into one of the wedges and then from the other side stuck a punch in the whole and pounded it for 5 minutes with a 3lb sledge hammer. did the job!
 
#12 ·
man... i've never seen anything like this!

FSP.. that frame is something else. i can't even compare it to any BICYCLE frame made that i know of. it blows richard sachs work! ssshhh.. not only the FB is perfect but the aesthethics of the bike (although i see those head tube "ring" out of place. but how dare do i critique that?) are outstanding. it's like looking at a fabergee egg.
now i see what the fuss is about goat deluxes.. do they handle like they look???
how can those guys stop building frames??
 
#13 ·
Faberge` egg......I simply couldn't have put it any better! I have always like the smooth lines of fillet brazed frames, and have often considered trying it out myself. It's been many moons since I brazed anything, but I feel that I were to begin, and get good at it, that my anal attention to detail would produce something a tenth as good as this Goat. WOW, VDub, that is one fancy bike. I truly don't think I have ever seen something so striking. Albeit, I think a nice flame motif would have picqued my taste a tad better. I wonder what this, or any fillet brazed frame would look like with a nice, tough clear cote...hmmm.
 
#14 ·
colker1 said:
FSP.. that frame is something else. i can't even compare it to any BICYCLE frame made that i know of. it blows richard sachs work! ssshhh.. not only the FB is perfect but the aesthethics of the bike (although i see those head tube "ring" out of place. but how dare do i critique that?) are outstanding. it's like looking at a fabergee egg.
now i see what the fuss is about goat deluxes.. do they handle like they look???
how can those guys stop building frames??
Thanks for the compliments, I sure wish they kept on it. Aside from the obvious talent, I can't think of a better name for an mtb company. Well, Mantis is pretty cool...

Yeah, I thought those rings odd too at first, but I suppose every other Goat had those scrolly jobs from day one, so they must have become something of a trademark & decided not to stray. I got used to em eventually. Now I kinda dig em. Kinda Western looking. The Goat headbadge Bolo tie.

I've been asked a few times to post pics of the whole enchilada & the BB. Here she be. mmmm enchiladas...

Oh yes, and thanks again Andreas for hooking me up with this beauty.
 

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#15 ·
did you toss that stem in the photo just to taunt me?
 
#17 ·
flyingsuperpetis said:
Thanks for the compliments, I sure wish they kept on it. Aside from the obvious talent, I can't think of a better name for an mtb company. Well, Mantis is pretty cool...

Yeah, I thought those rings odd too at first, but I suppose every other Goat had those scrolly jobs from day one, so they must have become something of a trademark & decided not to stray. I got used to em eventually. Now I kinda dig em. Kinda Western looking. The Goat headbadge Bolo tie.

I've been asked a few times to post pics of the whole enchilada & the BB. Here she be. mmmm enchiladas...

Oh yes, and thanks again Andreas for hooking me up with this beauty.
Thats a real beauty Pete. It just moved up 3 notches on my must find list.

As for those head tube rings, those were used quite a bit by lots of builders. My Landsharks got em too. I kinda like em.

Andreas of Yetifan.com is where it came from?
 
#21 ·
No, not this one. This stem was Marks in Oregon. Owner of a *****in custom road goat & goat fan extroardinare. Your black one went to one of the guys at Ritchey in Switz. He bought it for Toms birthday cause apparently they refer to him as the old Goat. Funny, cause the big "Goat" on the side will probably mean more to Tom than the guys who bought it for him.

Ah, other Andrew!
 
#23 ·
flyingsuperpetis said:
Yeah, the rings were a standard off the shelf item. I've seen em on Salsas and some old Ibis's. I think SSMike might have a frame with them on. What I meant was that they may have just started to think of them as a sort of part of their image.
The reinforcement rings on Ibis frames were typically reserved for the Custom model. I've got the SS sans rings. I can't remember any of the Salsas with reinforcement rings.
 
#24 ·
ssmike said:
The reinforcement rings on Ibis frames were typically reserved for the Custom model. I've got the SS sans rings. I can't remember any of the Salsas with reinforcement rings.
my fillet brazed mikkelsen has head rings and they don't look like lugs as the goat. that's what i meant by out of place cause the frame is not lugged.
pete, i have found now my highest standard of a mtn bike.. the goat. that's the ultimate really.. it's beyond ibis , bontrager and fat chance. as much as those are ultra tasty and i like tig welding on a mtb frame (lugs belong in road bikes), the goat construction is ... i could say made for a king but no; it's for anyone who really loves mtn biking.
 
#25 ·
colker1 said:
i have found now my highest standard of a mtn bike.. the goat. that's the ultimate really.. it's beyond ibis , bontrager and fat chance. as much as those are ultra tasty and i like tig welding on a mtb frame (lugs belong in road bikes), the goat construction is ... i could say made for a king but no; it's for anyone who really loves mtn biking.
The Goat is art. Frames like Ibis, Bontrager, Fat Chance are tools - bueatiful but tools.
 
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