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  1. #1
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    Marzocchi Z Series - Rebuild and Tuning Insight Needed

    I have a few Z2s around including a Superfly and a couple Atom Bombs and then some of the other similar series shocks. I am hoping that someone can point me towards or perhaps we can create here, a consolidated set of materials for rebuilds on these shocks. A few questions:

    1 - Any special tools that I need to rebuild these?
    2 - What are the best seals to use for these? Simply ones such as these enduro seals? Enduro Seal and Wiper Kit for Marzocchi 30mm MTB Suspension Fork | eBay
    3 - Where can I find the oil seal tool for these? Happy enough to buy one just can't find one.
    4 - Where can I find additional springs for these? Are there any other types of springs that are interchangeable with these? I have one Atom Bomb that has the light springs which are not of much value to me personally.
    5 - Any feedback on oil to use in them? Was Spectro Gold what originally came in them? What weight was it? Anyone tried any other weights with success?
    6 - Anyone have any 1" crowns or steerer tubes around they want to part with? I have been able to find a couple but would love to have a couple more around for some other frames that I am looking to build up.

    Links to any manuals, how to guides etc would be appreciated as well as any tips and tricks for these forks.

  2. #2
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    there is an ebay seller by the name of 'blimpuss' that specializes in marzocchi products. He might have expertise to share.

  3. #3
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    Great, I will reach out to them. Has anyone from here used Century Spring? I saw them come up as a custom spring maker and was curious if anyone has experience with them or with someone similar.

  4. #4
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    Marzocchi Z2 forks are about as easy to rebuild as it gets. I just did a seal and fluid replacement on my buddies fork and it took less than 2 beers, so that gives you an idea of how much time it takes.

    Manuals here, but a simple google search will net you much more info:

    Tenneco Marzocchi Suspension

    1- I didn't need any special tools. Used a small screwdriver to remove the seals and an appropriate sized (big) socket to drive the new ones in.

    2- Those are the seals I used. Protip: put them in the fridge for an hour or so to make them a bit undersized and easier to press in.

    3- Didn't need one, see above.

    4- No idea, I used the stock ones.

    5- I bought the oil at a motorcycle shop, and paid (I think) $10 for a quart, or about half of what a bike shop would charge. IIRC I used 7.5 weight, but you can experiment with different weights to adjust feel. Also, some (bike) shops will tell you that you shouldn't use motorcycle oil in bike forks, which might be true if you are rebuilding an air sprung fork. A Z2 is exactly like a motorcycle fork in function.

    6- Good luck with finding one of those! I do know that QBP (a distributor) had them in their catalog until a few years ago.

    Last thing: make sure you take the time to clean the internals with solvent (WD-40 works, but you can also use carb or brake parts cleaner) and blow the parts clean with compressed air.

    Have fun!

  5. #5
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    The stock oil is 7.5 Golden Spectro. Get it at a moto shop and save quite a bit of money. Back in the day I also used Finish Line oil which came in different weights but was also pricey. If you're over 175 pounds, go with 10 weight. You can play with oil heights too.

    I'm not certain about the Z2, but for the Z1 the heavy springs are the red springs. I have a search on ebay for those and Z2 springs pop up but not 100mm Z1s.

    Enduro for all seals. They come as a kit. Use a socket to set them.

    I have a 1998 Z2 manual around here. Do you want it?
    Ripping trails and tipping ales

  6. #6
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    They are a reliable fork for the most part. Bushings are very easy to replace, require no special tools, just pull the old ones out by hand and slide in the new ones (if you can get them somewhere). The Z1 damping cartridges can be dodgy and are unfortunately not user serviceable - the ends are peened over to prevent disassembly. Not sure what the Z2's use internally. The cartridge bodies and rods are also not hard annodized, so the oil gets dirty very quickly as the damping cartridges wear out.

  7. #7
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    Sent you a PM Vader, would love to have that. Thanks for everyone for the feedback. Keep the thoughts coming!!

  8. #8
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    I'm interested in acquiring the knowledge to rebuild my Jr T. Is it as user friendly as the Z1's or Z2's?

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