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  1. #1
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    Late 1980's Ross Mt. Bike Models - differences

    There was the Mt. Whitney, Mt Hood, Mt, Rainier and maybe others, I just don't know which was the low end and which was the high and what the differences were.

    Most important to me are the differences between the Mt. Hood and the Mt. Rainier. This would be about 1985-86 when they had under chainstay mounted roller cam rear brakes and friction shifters.

    I would love to find/see an old catalog but any information would be much appreciated.

    All the vintage websites seem to make mention of Ross bikes but I can't find any good info.
    Last edited by _BKK; 05-02-2006 at 12:22 PM.

  2. #2
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    I won't be much help, but maybe describing the bike I briefly owned will help if someone can compare/contrast...

    I bought a Mt. Rainier from 1986 last year for its rollercams and then parted out the bike. The tubing was Tange MTB and the bike had Mountech FD, XC Power rollercams, XC Power levers (currently for sale on EBay ) and XC Power friction-only thumbies, XC beartrap pedals, XC Sport hubs and those 'no model name' heavy Araya rims so many entry- to mid-level bikes had back then. When I got it, the RD was Shimano STX, so that was obviously replaced. I'm actually not sure if the XC Sport hubs would have been original. I never did pin it down with component dates and could be wrong there, but the previous owner said 1986 and that fit with the friction-only shifters.

    The bike was HEAVY, but it was also too big for me and I'm 6'1" - I think it was a 22" frame. Given it had Suntour XC in the days before XC Pro and Tange MTB tubing, I assume this was a mid-range bike (maybe upper end of mid?).

    For reference, it was blue and white. Here are some frame photos:
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  3. #3
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    I have two Mt Hoods.

    Both are Hi-Techs,1986 & 1987/88 models. The '86 Has Cunningham Designed rollercams and Suntour XC and the '87/88 Mt Hood has Shimano U-Brakes front and back with Shimano 6 speed components.
    Both Mt Hoods have Tange Triple butted MTB cromoly but the '87/'88 seems heavier and has a longer wheelbase.
    I'm sure someone here has some scans and info.
    Last edited by Built4Speed; 10-17-2006 at 06:39 AM.
    'Faster and faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death'
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  4. #4
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    Thanks for the input. If somebody has a catalog or scans of the details on these bikes it would be great.

    That picture of the Ross Mt. Hood looks just like the one I had. I really enjoyed that bike.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by _BKK
    Thanks for the input. If somebody has a catalog or scans of the details on these bikes it would be great.

    That picture of the Ross Mt. Hood looks just like the one I had. I really enjoyed that bike.

    Hi-Tech Mt. Whitney was my first mtb in 1984; it was top of the Ross line, welded up in Japan. I have the catalog/spec page w/pic; see if I can scan it and post it. Weighed 31 lbs. XT Deore friction thumbies and derailleurs, with the antler symbol. Bullmoose bars, all chrome, Ishiwata tubing in the frame, Tange fork. Perfect condition when it was stolen in 1995, god damn it.

  6. #6
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    (First post by a newbie)
    I'm 58 and have only recently gotten into any kind of shape. My wife and I will be doing mostly onroad riding - we have a pair of RANS Fusions on order - but we also have a couple of old Rosses for casual mixed use (mine is a chrome Mt. Whitney). Lots of choices for riding here in the Asheville NC area.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Two99Point80
    ...a couple of old Rosses for casual mixed use (mine is a chrome Mt. Whitney).
    Casual always preferred to formal. Enjoy!

  8. #8
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    Thanks - was hoping you'd notice :-) Please email me if you would...

  9. #9
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    Check out this thread from another site. Some good info. I guess Tom Kellog designed the first series before starting Spectrum.

    http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in...p/t-39115.html
    Wanted:Nothing. I have too much.

  10. #10
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    From the Spectrum web-site: "November, 1980 - June, 1982 - Tom sets up the legendary "Signature" department at Ross Bicycles and develops the Ross Signature line. After a motorcycle accident, Tom leaves Ross Bicycles and founds Spectrum Cycles. Tom hires Ross Bicycles’ Master Builder Jeff Duser away from the Signature Division of Ross in March, '85."
    Wanted:Nothing. I have too much.

  11. #11
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    Two Ross threads on the same day. Who would have guessed. I meant to post my info on the other thread.
    Wanted:Nothing. I have too much.

  12. #12
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    This is weird how bikes pop up. I just bought a bike on Craigslist that turned out to be..you guessed it..a Ross. This ones a Diamond Cruiser, Mountain bike type lugged steel frame, BMX looking straight fork, 26" Blue anodized wheels, Blue ano.high-flanged hubs, Blue ano. highlighted crankset and Blue ano. pedals. Heavy as a tank but looks to be in good shape. I bought it for the wheels but may have to clean it up and see how it behaves...pics anyone?
    "I won't sell these for a penny less than $60.00. I'd rather put 'em back on the shelf and keep 'em! "

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by stan4bikes
    pics anyone?
    post 'em up!


  14. #14
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    The one I have was purchased in 1986.
    http://img161.imageshack.us/slidesho...464358ep8.smil

  15. #15
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    Ross in 1986 NORBA Nationals

    The bikeforums site, linked above, contains mention of Ross' team in the 1980s. I haven't watched the video in a while, but I recall that Ross had at least a couple of racers in the 1986 NORBA Natl's video that Veloculture was kind enough to send (thanks!). Does anyone here know more about the team and/or who was on it?

  16. #16
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    Here's a site I tripped across that has some race winners posted from the early 80's. I'm sure some are in there if you can figure out who.

    http://www.mountainbikeroots.com/

  17. #17
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    Hi,

    I just finished building up an old 1984 Ross Mt. McKinley frame that I got off of Craigslist for $50. I had some parts already but I put about $100 into components. I have been a fan of Ross bikes since my first mountain bike was a '83 or '84 Ross Mt. Hood and I had a lot of adventures on it as a tow-headed youngster. I really liked the ride of the Mt. Hood and I wanted a bike with that ride quality but with updated/early nineties components. So I outfitted the Mt. McKinley with beefy DX rapidfire shifters, an LX rear derailler, LX brake cantilevers, a cartridge BB, a chromo quill stem, a basic Forte aluminum handlebar, short bar ends, comfortable Ritchey True Grips, a Specialized Prolong saddle, silver SPDs and a low Q factor late 80s Shimano crankset. The shifting is quick and precise and the bike stops on a dime. The finished bike is a little heavier than newer bikes of course but it has a nice solidity and balance to it. I like the chrome frame and from what I understand it is resistent to scraps and scratches.

    Anyway I was so happy with the way the bike turned out that I wanted to show it off to other Ross fans who might possibly understand my particular mania.

    B







    Last edited by William40; 09-17-2007 at 12:58 AM.

  18. #18
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    Very nice, great mix of old and new(er)....lots of happy riding coming up on this one..
    "I won't sell these for a penny less than $60.00. I'd rather put 'em back on the shelf and keep 'em! "

  19. #19
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    Nice bike William40! Anyone who has rode a Ross of that type will understand your particular mania. Mine is the signature series and your description of " nice solidity and balance" is a perfect explanation of the feeling you get when riding it. It not only "stops on a dime" but turns on one also. I like the tires you put on your bike but the original ones (on mine anyway), for those who don't know, had a smooth band of tread down the center that made it feel like it had thin tires when going straight on the road. The bike is heavier than some of the new ones but nothing worth being concerned about, mostly after experiencing the practically effortless ride it gives.

  20. #20
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    I just have to say that this bike is far from outdated. Technology has kicked this bike closer to the road as a reliable commuter but it is still formidable if you want to push the envelope on the road or dirt. I think that Ross was very intent to bring great diversity to the bike's design for well rounded function. If I was still into biking, I would take great pleasure in blowing the competition off the road/path with this bike....At least, I'd try!

  21. #21
    Built4Speed
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    Here's a Ross Mt.Hood

    I learned something about this bike when I tried to swap the heavy dogbone stem for a Tioga T-Bone with a 150mm length and 5 degree rise...the quill is a .0833 diameter so I can't use the 1" style. I'm not even going to bother installing a 1" threaded steerer fork so I'm stuck with Ross stem. I've been using this bike as my daily ride and it's silky smooth but I have yet to do some serious trail riding with it. It's a heavy bike but I'm sure it'll do good on the trail.I'll post a trail photo in a few days.
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    "Faster and faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death."

  22. #22
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    Nice Ross you have there.

    You must have a newer bike compared to mine.I can't fit a traditional 1" stem on mine as it seems to have smaller diameter quill.
    I like your Ross. Thanks for sharing.
    "Faster and faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death."

  23. #23
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    A friend of mine gave me this frame back in 2002. I have often wondered where it roots came from. It is a Ross Signature Reynolds 753 steel lugged frame with a 1 1/8th steer tube. It says made in USA exclusively for ROSS by Waterford precision cycles. I converted it to single speed.
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  24. #24
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    Bring back this thread.

    But does someone have a catalogue scan for 1986 Ross Mt. McKinley or pictures.
    Just acquired a frame and will look at doing a build or restoration project.

    Any info appreciated, thanks in advance!
    old fart cyclist

  25. #25
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    Im looking for a .833 inch (21.15mm) quill stem for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....anyone?

    Even some of those original integrated bullmoose bars would be great.

  26. #26
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    funny you should post this today...

    Quote Originally Posted by manida
    Im looking for a .833 inch (21.15mm) quill stem for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....anyone?

    Even some of those original integrated bullmoose bars would be great.
    I just picked these up yesterday (sorry, not for sale) they are generic H&L bars, one has a 21mm stem, the other a 22mm .
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    "I won't sell these for a penny less than $60.00. I'd rather put 'em back on the shelf and keep 'em! "

  27. #27
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    where'd you get them? This is exactly what Im looking for!

  28. #28
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    today I took an old piece of receipt paper and set it on top of the headset and pressed down around the steerer tube hole....I measured 22.0 mm.....is that considered the "outside diameter" for a 21.15, stem? or do I need a 22.0mm stem??? confused.

    Also, Im under the impression that 22.0mm is a French size and 21.15mm (0.883in) is American. This for a 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney, so I assume that I'll need the "American" sized quill stem.....but 22.0mm doesnt "sound right"

    I just want to know what I need to order!!

  29. #29
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    If I were you, I'd replace the fork with a steerer tube that would allow you to use a normal size stem. Ross used an extra thick steerer tube on these to beef up the durability.

    'lazyracer'
    Jim Harlow
    Former Ross Biycles L.A. Warehouse Manager 1986-1988
    Original ROSS INDIANS Mt Bike Racing Team Member 1983-1985
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  30. #30
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    hey Jim, thanks for the input. Good the hear it from a former ROSS employee/team member. But first, can you confirm that it is a 21.15mm (.833inch) steerer tube?
    I ask this because Ive found some stems online in this size......I just want to be sure thats what I need.
    I really like the original fork that is on it and I'd rather just put a new stem on the thing.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by stan4bikes
    This is weird how bikes pop up. I just bought a bike on Craigslist that turned out to be..you guessed it..a Ross. This ones a Diamond Cruiser, Mountain bike type lugged steel frame, BMX looking straight fork, 26" Blue anodized wheels, Blue ano.high-flanged hubs, Blue ano. highlighted crankset and Blue ano. pedals. Heavy as a tank but looks to be in good shape. I bought it for the wheels but may have to clean it up and see how it behaves...pics anyone?
    Like this? It's a Mt St Helens btw.



    I just missed out on a slightly newer black Mt St Helens a few weeks back through Craigslist. Saw it at 10pm the night it was posted, decided that was too late to call, waited politely until 9am the next morning and missed it by less than an hour! Oh well, didn't need it, but for $40 I wouldn't have passed on it either! The newer one had cantis - MUCH safter for my 260# arse than the nearly useless sidepulls on my blue baby.
    Quote Originally Posted by Hesh to Steel
    With people liking mongoose and trek bikes now, what's next in this crazy world? People disliking the bottlerocket?!

  32. #32
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    I had several of these fork/stems laying around for the longest time, discarded them a while back. The weird looking 'dog-bone' stock stem is REALLY heavy, it's a solid aluminum casting.

    The smaller steerer tube diameter is the same standard as some of the older BMX bikes & some of the older schwinn steerer tube standards. The 22.0 mm is the 'road-bike' standard, and the steerer tube's wall thickness is thinner, and usually a higher quality cro-mo metal composition. You can find the smaller diameter stems, it just limits your choices of stems, not a lot of options. Almost all off road mountain bikes have the larger steerer tube standard, which is why I suggested finding another fork that fits. You may have to replace the headset too. You could also look for someone to custom weld a stem with the smaller steerer tube standard. Back in the day there were several custom stem mfrs which offered both sizes. Nowadays almost everything is a 1 1/8" steerer tube standard for suspension forks, which makes it a bit more difficult to find the older parts.

    Good Luck

    'lazyracer'
    lazyracer
    And the man on the deck of the Titanic said, "Why yes, a midnight swim could be quite refreshing"

  33. #33
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    Im actually thinking of doing this up BMX-style, but keeping the original fork. Ive found some top-bolt BMX quill stems in a 21.15mm diameter that Im considering...and theyre only $12. That, and some crusier bars (which Ive alredy got) would make this kinda sweet.....with the chrome frame and all. Im also considering turning it into a 1x8.

  34. #34
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  35. #35
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    cool..

    Quote Originally Posted by First Flight

    that makes me feel REAL good about what I paid for my bars w/hanger
    "I won't sell these for a penny less than $60.00. I'd rather put 'em back on the shelf and keep 'em! "

  36. #36
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    I thought that this thread could use a little bump so here is a picture of my Ross. It's a Mt. Hood. Is that decent? Any idea where I can get a front derailleur that will work on it? I broke the original when I took it off for cleaning...
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  37. #37
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    Good to see this thread got some life!
    My Ross is still sitting incomplete. Still planning on converting it to a 1x6.


    Soup20000, Im not sure you'd need the original front derailer but I may still have the one that came off mine.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by soup20000
    I thought that this thread could use a little bump so here is a picture of my Ross. It's a Mt. Hood. Is that decent? Any idea where I can get a front derailleur that will work on it? I broke the original when I took it off for cleaning...
    Measure your seat tube and figure out the clamp diameter. It's probably nothing too hard to find, but I don't know the size. If you want to stay vintage, Ebay and Craigslist are your best bets.

    I like that bike! What are the components? More close-up photos would be nice. The black and gold color scheme is cool. It reminds me of this:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWF-hH1nloo

  39. #39
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    Manida, I don't think that I will require the original but I have been having one heck of a time trying to get answers from the LBS as to what will work. One guy that took a look at it said that "nothing is made that will work anymore" - I can't and don't believe that.

    Any ideas on one that may work?

    Thanks!

  40. #40
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    I've got the front and rear derailleurs from the same exact bike that I'm not using. If you need them, I'll send them to you and you can use 'em or chuck 'em.

  41. #41
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    thread revive!

    here's some BEFORE pics of my 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney.....AFTER pics coming soon!
    Notice the bars have been bent and an attempt to bend them back was done at some point....theyve been replaced (even though I had to find a .833inch stem that would work!)



  42. #42
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    update:



  43. #43
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    OK, last pic I swear. Now with grips and padset. Done.


  44. #44
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    Manida,

    Nice job on the Mt Whitney. Is this a bike you had that you built up fresh or a frame that you got and just built up?

    Cheers,

    William

  45. #45
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    this was a bike I found inthe dumpster, see the BEFORE pics in message #16

    Its got new BMX stem, bars, rear brake, BB, seatpost, saddle, different pedals, padset and a new freewheel.

    I removed the inner and outer chainrings

  46. #46
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    I gave my Mt. Whitney (chrome plated frame) to my son - all original components except for the tires.

    Here's a write up, specs, and good pic's of a Mt. Whitney:http://www.mombat.org/1984_Ross_Mt_Whitney.htm


    This Mt. St. Helen's I got at a police auction - I love the large frame.



    Gears, wheels, and front derailler replaced, along with seat. It's my one and only, which I commute on. Great stable ride.
    Last edited by harpdog; 04-02-2009 at 05:59 AM.

  47. #47
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    My restored 1984 Ross Mt. Whitney

    Here is my restoration so far:
    (Wheelset on picture is the wheels from my 1993 Yeti FRO. Only on the bike for the pictures. The same goes for the levers.)



    More images at http://tsh.fotoguiden.no/diverse/ros...ny/default.htm

    ... well not much of a project anymore. I'm allmost done.

    Great Thanks to Jeff at Firstflight Bikes for sending this beautifull frame, fork and
    bullmoose over the Atlantic to Norway.

    Some tech. about the restoration:
    Frame: 19" Ishiwata 4130 Cro-mo steel
    Fork: Tange
    Stem & bar: Bullmoose (.883)
    Headset: Top: Ritchey, Bottom: Shimano 600EX
    Crank: Shimano Deore w/Biopace (I might put on a Bullseye...)
    Pedals: Suntour
    BB: Tange sealed
    Deraileurs: Suntour XC Sport 7000
    Shifters: Suntour XC combo (all in one)
    Brakes: Mafac cantilevers
    Hubs: Bullseye
    Rims: Araya 26" x 1.5
    Tires: Knobby
    Seatpost: SR Laprade
    Seat: Turbo (will be changed to a Brooks B-17)

    Thanks for looking, and feedback is most wellcome!

    8)

    Best regards,

    Tor-S. Hansen
    Jar, Norway
    Last edited by digilux; 04-15-2009 at 10:53 AM.

  48. #48
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    nice restore! Did you stick with the original headset (21.15mm or .833 inches)? If so then those bullmoose bars must be 21.15 as well. Curious where you got them and how much $$$ you spent on them.


    EDIT: duh, I just read the rundown of parts.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by manida
    nice restore! Did you stick with the original headset (21.15mm or .833 inches)? If so then those bullmoose bars must be 21.15 as well. Curious where you got them and how much $$$ you spent on them.


    EDIT: duh, I just read the rundown of parts.
    I bought the frame and fork for US $90,- + US $40,- for the Bullmoose bars. The fork are the original Mt. Whitney, and its all to narrow for all my other 1" stems. For headset I had some old 1" headsets laying aroud. In the bottom its a oversized Shimano 600EX cup+bearings, and on the top its a Ritchey logic cup including bearings and locknut.

    I have one aditional bullmoose that is "traditional" 1" and I have bought a fork for it that wil fit. This Bullmoose have cablehanger welded on to it that the Ross bars dont have.

    Ill post more pictures when the Bullseye/araya weels are build.

    Thanks for the interest.

    PS: I'm looking for other Ross collector so we can build a resource web for the Rosses...

  50. #50
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    well, youve seen my one and only Ross. It needs a larger chainring and I have another set of brakes for it. I really just dig this frame----foundthe bike in the dumpster.

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