Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 51 to 100 of 100
  1. #51
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by phattruth View Post
    Anyone else out there done this with a 20's or thirties vintage frame. I'd really like to do one of those. I really like the roaring 29er Tony Pereira built, just can't afford one.
    One of our forum members Timmy has a Pereira 29er that to me is still one of the best looking bikes I have ever seen. To my knowledge there is at least one other person who has added disks to a pre-war frame. It was a schwinn and it was posted on Rat Rod Bikes. I think the username was catahula. Just go to that site and search for disk brakes and you will find it. Not much detail though. I think a pre-war schwinn would be a little better suited to this because the stays are round and not as narrow.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  2. #52
    Stokeless Asshat
    Reputation: jeff's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    3,252
    Quote Originally Posted by phattruth View Post
    Anyone else out there done this with a 20's or thirties vintage frame. I'd really like to do one of those. I really like the roaring 29er Tony Pereira built, just can't afford one.
    Yes. Currently under the torch for canti's. Well, has been for quite awhile. 27 Colson. I have a 34 CCW in the same state.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  3. #53
    mtbr member
    Reputation: biss-ness's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    230
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    One of our forum members Timmy has a Pereira 29er that to me is still one of the best looking bikes I have ever seen. To my knowledge there is at least one other person who has added disks to a pre-war frame. It was a schwinn and it was posted on Rat Rod Bikes. I think the username was catahula. Just go to that site and search for disk brakes and you will find it. Not much detail though. I think a pre-war schwinn would be a little better suited to this because the stays are round and not as narrow.
    ★ RATRODBIKES.COM ★ • View topic - 1936 Schwinn B98 Nexus 8 Spd Disc Brakes ! > > SOLD

    Here is a link when it was for sale... super cool resto-mod!

  4. #54
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Yeah his setup kinda gave me the idea. Notice how many washers and spacers he had to use for a 160mm disk though. He should try a 140 and pull those spacers out to stiffen it up. His setup must be a pain to align properly but it sure looks smooth.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  5. #55
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    I got it mocked up today so I could work out the cable routing. Only then did I realize the brakes were set up as lefty rear and righty front. Needless to say this won't work for me so I will be swapping the levers and re-bleeding which kinda sucks because I have to by a bleed kit. I have a lovely Sid fork provided by ccmcdoc via our trade thread and I couldn't be happier. It works flawlessly and looks almost new. Since the fork is black I am thinking of going with a matte black finish which will go with the hubs, fork and parts and it should give the bike a road warrior kind of look. I have some custom decals and a headbadge in mind as well. A cross country fork with downhill brakes on an antique frame. I think we have truly entered the land of ridiculousness.



    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  6. #56
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phattruth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    366

    27 Colson MTB

    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    27 Colson.
    Outstanding ride! I'd love to do one of these. Time to find a frame.
    The Truth will set you free.

    ....but it might offend you first!

  7. #57
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    108
    Awesome build and great work so far on all the resto mods.

    Mind sharing what your plans are for the headset?

    Subscribed!

  8. #58
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    11
    Looks real nice! If you could figure out the year it was made you should paint "193? -> 2012" (or the year you finish this) on the top tube somewhere.

  9. #59
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Here is the answer to the headset question.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How far can you take a pre-war frame?-61301_10200104784363843_2115144878_n.jpg  

    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  10. #60
    mtbr member
    Reputation: biss-ness's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    230
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    Here is the answer to the headset question.
    Let me know when these go into production. Very Nice!

  11. #61
    Certified Creep
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    26
    Favourite thread.

  12. #62
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by biss-ness View Post
    Let me know when these go into production. Very Nice!
    They alread are along with a magnitude of amazing cool parts for old bikes. Take a look here: Products

    Not my site by the way. Tick Oner is also on facebook and he is the one turning down headsets to fit pre-war bikes. You supply the headset. He is quite an interesting individual. He will only work on American made headsets. He makes really nice handlebars and seatposts too. He also makes bolt on canti bosses for old frames. Very trustworthy.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  13. #63
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Just one more cable stop left to braze and we are done with the hot stuff. Next step will be to remove the old seat post collar so I can use an alloy one instead. I also poured in some more brass around the dropouts to smooth them out. Cable routing on the downtube seemed the best option because it is the only straight bar on the bike. Using the top tube for the brake line was the only option for the rear brake. I had to mount it on the sid a bit to keep the cable from rubbing the head tube too much. I am going over the top of the bb shell for the rear derailler and maybe the front too.





    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  14. #64
    mtbr member
    Reputation: phattruth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    366
    Nice work on that frame. I can't wait to see it completed.
    The Truth will set you free.

    ....but it might offend you first!

  15. #65
    mtbr member
    Reputation: breckenridge's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    216
    Very cool project. I'll be checking back!

  16. #66
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,043
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    One of our forum members Timmy has a Pereira 29er that to me is still one of the best looking bikes I have ever seen. To my knowledge there is at least one other person who has added disks to a pre-war frame. It was a schwinn and it was posted on Rat Rod Bikes. I think the username was catahula. Just go to that site and search for disk brakes and you will find it. Not much detail though. I think a pre-war schwinn would be a little better suited to this because the stays are round and not as narrow.
    I built one several years ago using a '70 Schwinn cantilever frame. Originally built it with a pre-war spring fork and Sachs drum brake hubs (rear was 7 speed). Widened the rear spacing to 135 and internally routed the cables.
    I rode it that way for a while and then gave it to my dad, who put a hub motor in the rear and added a disc mount. He rode it that way for a while, then wrecked it and decided he was done with riding. So, I got it back and parted it out. Still have the Sachs hubs. I have a photo of it together somewhere, but can't find it. Here's one of the frame (which I sold on RRB).

    You might want to consider adding some material to your dropstand/dropout area so that if you snag the derailleur it won't rip the threads out. Build looks good.
    Last edited by fc; 01-28-2013 at 04:04 PM.

  17. #67
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Seatpost clamp removed, last cable stop brazed on. I filed and sanded for hours. The frame had some heavy pitting but I think after I get the primer sanded it will look ok.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  18. #68
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by manbat View Post
    Been watching this thread for a while, looks like youre nearly done now
    Getting close for sure but I still need the headset turned and I need the bb adaptor and a decent crank. Problem is I am totally broke after Christmas. Hopefully a parts donor bike will come along on craigslist so I can score some parts will little or no out of pocket expense. Sure would be nice to have this complete for Keyesville this year.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  19. #69
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    26
    Man, Nice job. I like you added braze ons

  20. #70
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Painted today and started working on the headbadge.








    Last edited by sandmangts; 12-30-2012 at 05:27 PM.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  21. #71
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Boy named SSue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,652
    Always excited to see the updates. All the brazing looks really smooth under the paint. Awesome.

  22. #72
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Posts
    76
    Ha. I still haven't finished the build up of that frame Andy. Hopefully I'll get a chance to paint it and build it up here in the next few weeks if it gets a little warmer.
    1978 Cooks Bros cruiser/klunker
    09 Specialized Stump Elite
    25+ other bikes (mostly cruisers)

  23. #73
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    I got the headbadge done today. I used a sheet of brass plated steel from an old door kickplate. The acid etch took off the brass around the resist and left just the steel showing. I then used spray paint and I wet sanded it with a Turtle wax headlight lens restoration kit. It took the paint off the raised areas and left the brass showing.




    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  24. #74
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Made a little more progress. I decided to use the Hope Mini brakes instead of the M4's. I got the rear brake mounted up and it is good to go without having to use shims or spacers. I used a Truvativ bottom bracket adaptor. I am waiting for my modified King headset and a new XT crank to arrive and then it is building time. All the hard stuff is over. The bottom bracket is just a tad higher than my DX which is good. The headtube angle is not as slack as I expected so steering should be pretty snappy.



    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  25. #75
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    770
    Wow that is impressive. Sure does look fun

  26. #76
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bikemaya's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    931
    Are you going to keep the frame that matte black? The rock shox stuff kinda clashes with its flashy bright logos and shiny finish.

    IMHO, name brand means squat on this build. Paint the fork the same matte black! Stealthy coolness

  27. #77
    Mtn Biker Machinist
    Reputation: 1 cog frog's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Posts
    944
    Frame too small?

    That's one heck of a seatpost. Hope that thing is solid.

    All kidding aside, looking good, but I agree on the stealth look. Make the fork match the frame.

    frog

  28. #78
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Yeah, I was using that long rod to make seatposts for all my old pre-war bikes. I used it to hold the frame for painting and now it is a little stuck. I will need to put it in a vice to get it back out. I was debating taking the logos off the fork. I think I will and I may remove the labels from the wheels as well.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  29. #79
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    59
    Sooo nasty! I love it!

    I vote fullly label-less.

  30. #80
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    611
    Looking great!

    What are your impressions of those "Mr. Tick" bars?
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  31. #81
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    Looking great!

    What are your impressions of those "Mr. Tick" bars?
    I have not actually ridden them yet. The sweep is a little more than I am used to but it feels comfortable. The quality is excellent and he will do them in custom widths for the same price. I am lucky my brake cables were about 5 inches too long for my single speed because they came off an extra large bike so they work with this bar without having to change cables.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  32. #82
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Fillet-brazed's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    7,696
    Great project! I think you'll find that fork will set the bike back too much (too slack). Might be worth getting an older 2.5" travel SID (or any other short fork) vs the 3" one you have just to drop it a little more.

    I agree with the others, fork needs to be decal free and flat black would be even cooler.

  33. #83
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    All that remains is the headset. It should be here early next week. I plan to swap the skewers for some black XT ones, trim the cables etc. The rear brake cable is a little shorter than I would like so I had to route it differently than I planned. I could just get a new cable but I just bled these things and they are working perfect so I will wait until the next time they need a bleed to make a new cable. All the decals are gone. I would have painted the fork but to do it right would mean dissasembling it so I will wait until it needs service to do that. I made a shim for the handlebars out of an old scott handlebar. I trimmed off 2 pieces of it and made a shim for the front derailler as well. The rear wheel mounts up perfect with no brake rub. Shifting seems great in the stand but we will have to see how it is on the trail.



    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  34. #84
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mountain Cycle Shawn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    11,903
    It's like a modern klunker.

  35. #85
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Boy named SSue's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,652
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    The rear wheel mounts up perfect with no brake rub.
    Nice!!! Well done indeed.

  36. #86
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    472
    Absolutely love the way it turned out. Looks great. I would throw a Brooks on there myself for a little offset of color. One with the brass rails would look super sick on there but that is just personal preference from my side. Great work!!

  37. #87
    Hi.
    Reputation: jtmartino's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,868
    Damn man, that is fantastic work. Let us know how it rides!

  38. #88
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Still waiting on the headset so I experimented with the headbadge a bit. I used the toner transfer method to make one out of aluminum. It was much easier than brass or copper. With brass and copper you have to use ferric chloride which is just horrible stuff. With aluminum you just use Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and water, same stuff I used to strip ano off of old rims. I spend 2 dollars on some surplus aluminum and it worked great. Got a nice deep clean etch in about 45 minutes. I think if I had a better laser printer I could get a more detailed image but this one looks ok.


    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  39. #89
    CS2
    CS2 is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CS2's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    2,670
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    Still waiting on the headset so I experimented with the headbadge a bit. I used the toner transfer method to make one out of aluminum. It was much easier than brass or copper. With brass and copper you have to use ferric chloride which is just horrible stuff. With aluminum you just use Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) and water, same stuff I used to strip ano off of old rims. I spend 2 dollars on some surplus aluminum and it worked great. Got a nice deep clean etch in about 45 minutes. I think if I had a better laser printer I could get a more detailed image but this one looks ok.


    Very, very nice work.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

  40. #90
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Finally got the headset turned down to fit and installed. After that everything else just fell into place. I took it for the first ride around the neighborhood and I am absolutely thrilled with the way it rides. It shifts flawlessly and stops on a dime. The steering is not lazy feeling at all. This is the first time I pulled a bike off the stand and rode it without having to adjust the shifting or brakes in some way. Just a little tweak to the bars and saddle and I was dialed in. I absolutely love it. I will get some dirt on it this weekend and see how it holds up. And I will try to get some better photos.


    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  41. #91
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Took it out for a few miles of dirt today. Front derailler needed some tweaking to get it to drop to the small ring but other than that everything is solid. The 2.35 tire in the rear is cutting in pretty close but it sure takes the edge off the small bumps. 34.6 pounds as it sits.





    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  42. #92
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    770
    Beautiful bike! Only 34lbs that's lighter than I expected, I applaud you sir it turned out very nice

  43. #93
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    16
    Love It!!

  44. #94
    ong
    ong is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    439
    That's really excellent! Very distinctive. How's it ride?

  45. #95
    GMF
    GMF is offline
    Mmm... Tasty
    Reputation: GMF's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    700
    That is crazy awesome. I'm really impressed with all the custom fab work! Much respect...

  46. #96
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    It is still in one piece. I commute on it 12 miles daily and I get a few miles of dirt on the way home. I have ridden a bike everyday since January 1st this year as a part of my weight loss/get in shape for Keyesville program. Although I ended up not going to keyesville I stuck with the plan which included eliminating beer. So far I am down 17 pounds. So yes this bike has taken a good pounding. My biggest concern was whether or not the rear wheel would move in the dropout. After several drops and small jumps and some off camber impacts it has not budged.

    My biggest mistake was using grey primer, I could have used black and all the chips in the paint I am getting would not be so obvious. I will probably strip it and get it powder coated in the future if it holds up. I just didn't want to spend the money only to have to repair it.
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  47. #97
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by sandmangts View Post
    My biggest mistake was using grey primer, I could have used black and all the chips in the paint I am getting would not be so obvious. I will probably strip it and get it powder coated in the future if it holds up. I just didn't want to spend the money only to have to repair it.

    Same here on the grey primer on my Colson!
    Not sure on the powder coat, would have to rough up the front after to add the very dark green darts I have. Currently it's a pearl black with the pearl green up front, don't really see the green until the sun hits it, then it pops. It was my first paint job, so what did I expect anyway.

  48. #98
    Master of the Face Plant
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,902
    Still riding and racing.
    How far can you take a pre-war frame?-10427676_738061002968595_719452077839781520_n.jpgHow far can you take a pre-war frame?-10888381_10203095447657440_3199221912167234672_n.jpgHow far can you take a pre-war frame?-10934061_10203095415776643_3277064574428290262_n.jpg
    http://www.nbbikes.com/
    ^^^Best Bike Shop of MTBR 2008^^^

  49. #99
    mtbr member
    Reputation: onlycrimson's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Posts
    621

    How far can you take a pre-war frame?

    That is really cool, does it handle ok with that slack head tube angle?

  50. #100
    He be a moose too.
    Reputation: pinguwin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Posts
    2,099
    Just a FYI if anyone wants to make a head tube badge but you can use a laser cutter to do this work also. Most laser cutters don't have the power to cut aluminum (and if they do, turn the power down) but you can etch the anodization and leave a nice Al finish underneath.

    The laser cutter also allows extremely fine details and basically, if you can see it on a computer screen, the laser cutter will etch it for you.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •