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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed View Post
    haha! Just don't look down! It's really fun once you ride it a few times and start enjoying the flow. And you did great, especially for your first time on the trails and the time away from mountain bikes you've taken.

    The miles don't come easy out there. You went well on the climbs, for sure.

    Time for a hug!

  2. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMF View Post
    Thank you for all that experience based information, Rumpfy. I had a few ideas on how to address the different cable pulls front and back. The first and easiest idea was to use a set of older Avid sd2.0 canti levers (I think that is what they are). Not super high end, but work well and feel pretty nice. I've used them on canti's, Vs, and disks, and they work surprisingly well across all three (least satisfied with them matched to BB7 disks, but work great with some generic avid Vs on my commuter).
    Avid SD Ultimate levers are the ticket - pull adjustment for short (canti/roller/road disc) and long (v or MT disc) pull.

    My 94 SE with toggle rear and V front:

    ...strictly downhill...

  3. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericb49 View Post
    Avid SD Ultimate levers are the ticket - pull adjustment for short (canti/roller/road disc) and long (v or MT disc) pull.
    Oh you cheeky monkey. That is pretty much what I hope my bike to be (with some minor changes)... should i ever get in touch with Mr. Potts.

  4. #79
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    Haha, I rode that bike!
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost

  5. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMF View Post
    Oh you cheeky monkey. That is pretty much what I hope my bike to be (with some minor changes)... should i ever get in touch with Mr. Potts.
    nar. ride it, D!

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy View Post
    Haha, I rode that bike!
    That ol X-Fly works fine, eh? ;-)
    ...strictly downhill...

  7. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericb49 View Post
    That ol X-Fly works fine, eh? ;-)
    Ya felt good!
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost

  8. #83
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    Love the bikes. If Steve would build one in steel and 3" bigger wheels I'd get on his build list.
    BTW...I've found that the Ultimates suck with V's. Spongy. Anyone else?
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  9. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    Love the bikes. If Steve would build one in steel and 3" bigger wheels I'd get on his build list.
    BTW...I've found that the Ultimates suck with V's. Spongy. Anyone else?
    I have not felt that, but I have not used the 2001 and newer ones. These are the 98 "V Chip", plenty snappy plus lots of lever for my fat fingers ;-)
    ...strictly downhill...

  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    Love the bikes. If Steve would build one in steel and 3" bigger wheels I'd get on his build list.
    I'll bet that he'd build it if you asked.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeff View Post
    BTW...I've found that the Ultimates suck with V's. Spongy. Anyone else?
    v chipped vs non v chipped.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hoping to resto-mod my WTB Phoenix (long-ish)-23c9e4c3.jpg  

    Hoping to resto-mod my WTB Phoenix (long-ish)-309fb70b.jpg  


  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by ericb49 View Post
    Avid SD Ultimate levers are the ticket - pull adjustment for short (canti/roller/road disc) and long (v or MT disc) pull.

    My 94 SE with toggle rear and V front:
    That's a really great looking Phoenix. Probably one of my favorites. My mod'ed Judy works fairly good, but yours makes me want to put a little more substantial fork on mine. I'd have to ditch the Lever Link front brake though...

    Regarding the Avid levers ran with an RC and a V, I had mine that way for a time. Front was a little spongy, but it worked satisfactorily.


  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed View Post
    That's a really great looking Phoenix. Probably one of my favorites. My mod'ed Judy works fairly good, but yours makes me want to put a little more substantial fork on mine.
    Are you going to modify your Judy into a Marzocchi?
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux View Post
    I'll bet that he'd build it if you asked.
    Wrong answer!!!! Like I need to drop big coin on another custom? Did I just say that?
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  15. #90
    GMF
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    Well, Mr. Potts did e-mail me back after i sent him another one and is willing to fix the frame for time and materials. I have a few options:

    1) Bare bones is to simply restore the frame. This would put frame bosses back in the orginal places, roll out the dents, etc. With that, i am left with the 1" steerer, frame designed around a 2.5" travel fork, and running a 140mm stem. However, I have a 1" judy steerer that I can modify an older SID to work with and get some more suspension performance that way. I do get to use the 1" new paradigm headset, though.

    2) For a fair bit more (guesstimating), i can switch to an 1 1/8 steerer tube, and *maybe* tweak the geometry to handle an 80mm fork.

    3) For some reason, he doesn't want to "just" replace the front triangle, which seems like after all the dent rolling and braze-on moving, and head tube swapping... Anyway, I have contacted a couple other people about quotes for that.

    4) Realize this is an old bike, and that money is best placed other places.

    So right now, I am weighing my options and waiting for more info. For added decision making fun, my wife was throwing out the option of upgrading me to frame building school instead of putting money into this frame, but that is even more money that is questionably discretionary (and probably just a diversion tactic from putting money into this bike )

    That is where I am at today. I think I need to take a step back and zen out on this a bit, gather some opinions, and see what option feels right...

  16. #91
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    I'd say let Steve restore it. At the most replace the head tube. For the kind of money and time it will take for a front triangle replacement you can have choice of many nice customs built. Any quality builder will charge you what the repair work is worth. Remember....you get what you pay for.
    Zip ties? Not on my bike!

    Want:
    650B rims or wheel set. 80's vintage 32 or 36 x 135mm

  17. #92
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    riding an 80mm on a frame ready for 63 won't be that dramatic. You can find a marzocchi and run substantial sag. It's what i do here and it works great. Or you coud just mod the fork into 63mm. doable.
    most of the hardtails these days are running 100mm forks. MOst of the hardtails are 29ers. in the near future they will sport 650B wheels. i say do it as simple as possible. Do you really need to even send it to Potts?
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMF View Post
    3) For some reason, he doesn't want to "just" replace the front triangle, which seems like after all the dent rolling and braze-on moving, and head tube swapping... Anyway, I have contacted a couple other people about quotes for that.
    Ask him how much to replace both the front and rear triangles on the bike. At some point that will be less expensive.

    If it were me I'd keep it as close to original as possible. Fixing it up is great, but once you start replacing head tubes and modifying the geometry you'll be sinking lots of money into the frame to make it ride differently than the frame that you remember. You'd be better off keeping your old frame for it's "good memories" and then buying a new frame that has modern niceities.

    I agree with Colker, Marzocchi forks from the early 2000s ride really nice, had a shorter axle to crown than Rock Shox, and can have their travel reduced easily. They're a great option if you can find one.
    Each bicycle owned exponentially increases the probability that none is working correctly.

  19. #94
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    laffeaux is being nice and polite but really, D, what you want done is really rework the bike so much that it's going to be a completely different bike and probably one that doesn't ride as nice. You may as well start from scratch and get a new bike (and it'll cost nearly the same).

    As just about everybody has said here.....pull it together and ride it as is.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by GMF View Post
    Well, Mr. Potts did e-mail me back after i sent him another one and is willing to fix the frame for time and materials. I have a few options:

    1) Bare bones is to simply restore the frame. This would put frame bosses back in the orginal places, roll out the dents, etc. With that, i am left with the 1" steerer, frame designed around a 2.5" travel fork, and running a 140mm stem. However, I have a 1" judy steerer that I can modify an older SID to work with and get some more suspension performance that way. I do get to use the 1" new paradigm headset, though.

    2) For a fair bit more (guesstimating), i can switch to an 1 1/8 steerer tube, and *maybe* tweak the geometry to handle an 80mm fork.

    3) For some reason, he doesn't want to "just" replace the front triangle, which seems like after all the dent rolling and braze-on moving, and head tube swapping... Anyway, I have contacted a couple other people about quotes for that.

    4) Realize this is an old bike, and that money is best placed other places.

    So right now, I am weighing my options and waiting for more info. For added decision making fun, my wife was throwing out the option of upgrading me to frame building school instead of putting money into this frame, but that is even more money that is questionably discretionary (and probably just a diversion tactic from putting money into this bike )

    That is where I am at today. I think I need to take a step back and zen out on this a bit, gather some opinions, and see what option feels right...


    With some of the options you've been given, you could find another Phoenix quicker and for less money than having Steve replace...pretty much all of it. Steve is the nicest guy ever. But his quality work takes time and money

    Unless there is specific structural damage, pick the option that makes the bike most usable and back on the trail quickest.

    Just my $.02.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: Syncros 27.2 x 425 seatpost

  21. #96
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    phoenix's, flat bar 96 and a dirtdropped 93.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hoping to resto-mod my WTB Phoenix (long-ish)-img_1729.jpg  

    "believe what you ride, not what you read" 94 WTB catalog

  22. #97
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    oops, 96 flat bar.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Hoping to resto-mod my WTB Phoenix (long-ish)-img_1736.jpg  

    "believe what you ride, not what you read" 94 WTB catalog

  23. #98
    GMF
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    Quote Originally Posted by girlonbike View Post
    pull it together and ride it as is.
    Well, to be honest, the frame makes me sad in it's current state, and it is asking for some love, not more abuse. So i am going to focus on the former.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    With some of the options you've been given, you could find another Phoenix quicker and for less money than having Steve replace...pretty much all of it. Steve is the nicest guy ever. But his quality work takes time and money

    Unless there is specific structural damage, pick the option that makes the bike most usable and back on the trail quickest.
    This is basically what it is coming down to for me. As laffeaux said, why risk changing the ride of a bike i love? Deal with its quirks of age - they won't slow it down.

    So right now, i am focusing on figuring out the best way to repair and repaint my frame. I'm trying to keep it under $600... we'll see how that goes. I have the vast majority of parts needed to build it the way I want. The only big ticket item is a fork in decent shape (all i have is a really beat judy). We'll see how this approach goes...

    Thanks for all the input, everyone!

  24. #99
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    I'll take door number '93.
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  25. #100
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    why are you running a 140mm stem? those bikes have long top tubes. almost everybody is on a phoneix w/ 120mm stem.
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

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