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Thread: G.T. Psyclone

  1. #1
    REALLY?
    Reputation: jeffgothro's Avatar
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    G.T. Psyclone

    Its finally here and mine, paid 450.00 and she is a bit rough. Long story short I bought it from LBS shop owner, who bought it new, later grampa'd the bike out as seen in the pics and gave it to his dad, who recently died, who left it laying outside for an undetermined amount of time. The seatpost is completly frozen, I'm having a LBS framebuilder tourch the frame to get it out, then repaint. There appear to be no serial numbers, can someone tell me if this is common on Psyclones, and can you tell me what year it is, my guess 94/95?







    DJ, "Because I'm sure the world need's more dudes stalking the woods stoned out of their mind carrying a deadly weapon."

  2. #2
    gobsmacked Moderator
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    Have you tried other options before torching it?

  3. #3
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    Reputation: djmuff's Avatar
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    Yes, please try all other options before using a torch. Remove the wheels and bottom bracket, turn the frame upside down, and spray in PB Blaster and let it soak. You could also spray it in from the water bottle braze-ons. After soaking and spraying for at least a day, longer if possible, clamp the post in a vise and use the frame as a lever to try and break it free.

    And GT doesn't need any periods. Cool bike. I like the Judy FSX. Hope you get the post free.

  4. #4
    gobsmacked Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by djmuff View Post
    And GT doesn't need any periods.
    Get.Out.

  5. #5
    Powered by Pulvoron
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    CRC Freeze Off.. Works wonders like PB blaster.. It contains a cooling agent that shrinks the material to allow their chemicals to work in faster. Found them at NAPA or google it.

  6. #6
    REALLY?
    Reputation: jeffgothro's Avatar
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    Awesome...I will take everyones advice and try the CRC or Blaster. Thanks...was really dreading the tourch. And yes, I already flipped the frame over, sprayed the crap out of it top to bottom with WD40, me and a roomate took a pipe wrench to post and with both of us pulling at the same time still couldnt free it, its really stuck in there.
    DJ, "Because I'm sure the world need's more dudes stalking the woods stoned out of their mind carrying a deadly weapon."

  7. #7
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    Reputation: erol/frost's Avatar
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    Soak it in the chemicals mentioned and find a solidly bolted down vise and use teh frame as a lever. This will work. It did for me and an old Miyata TripleCross and seat post that just wouldn`t budge
    WTB: Ritchey Plexus
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    automobiliana.blogspot.se

  8. #8
    The Crazy Cat Lady of VRC
    Reputation: eastcoaststeve's Avatar
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    Sometimes brute twisting force is not your best option...try a few swift hits with a ball peen hammer...I've found impact to be my friend on more than one occasion.


    Nice pic up on the frame. Mine was in about the same shape, but with a much uglier build.



    Steve

  9. #9
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    Firstly, nice score. I love that era of GT.

    Secondly, save the flame for BBQing meat. There's plenty of options for getting the seatpost out without resorting to the torch.

    There are several products out there that are better than WD40. I can't give you any brand names because I'm Australian and what I use might niot be available there, head to a bolt shop (rather than the big box hardware shop) and check out their range.

    Good standbys are diesel, or 2 stroke. Leave it to soak, don't be afraid to wait. As above, clamp the head of the seatpost in a vise and use the leverage of twisting the frame to break the bond. Or hit the top of the post with a hammer, careful not to slip and hit the frame and careful not to bend the post or the extension of the seat tube. I know you want to pull the post out, but you might be able to shock it into breaking the bond, allowing you to more easily pull it out.

    I assume it's an aluminium post, which means it's chemically bonded to the steel. Ammonia will corrode the aluminium, but I'm not certain what it will do to the paint.

    Freezing the post with liquid nitrogen can wotk, and no, I don't know where to get that either.

    A sure fire method is to get the post drilled out by a machine shop.

    When it is out, get a small wire wheel on a drill and clean the inside of the seat tube out.

    Good luck!

    Grumps

  10. #10
    VRC Illuminati
    Reputation: Rumpfy's Avatar
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    Solid frame/fork foundation there! Should end up great.

    Hope that post gets out without the need of heat.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com

    Wanted: 400mm American Classic seatpost, 26.8 & 27.2

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Linoleum's Avatar
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    Dig it... good luck w/the post!

  12. #12
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    It's a 94. I have one identical to it in a 16". Did you check under the BB cable guide and closely along the right edge of the BB shell for the serial number? It may be filled with paint you may need to tip it up get good light on it to see it. Should be P940XX.
    Needed: 26.8mm XTR seatpost, blue GT/Grundig Jersey.

  13. #13
    REALLY?
    Reputation: jeffgothro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gm1230126 View Post
    It's a 94. I have one identical to it in a 16". Did you check under the BB cable guide and closely along the right edge of the BB shell for the serial number? It may be filled with paint you may need to tip it up get good light on it to see it. Should be P940XX.
    Thanks, knew I could count on you

    No, no serial, unless its completely coverd under the paint, not even a hint of numbers or letters, subsequently when I purchased the bike the LBS mentioned when writting out my reciept there were no serial on this one as of its a custom, what is custom I didnt ask, nor does it really matter to me.
    DJ, "Because I'm sure the world need's more dudes stalking the woods stoned out of their mind carrying a deadly weapon."

  14. #14
    Sergeant Spandex
    Reputation: lewisfoto's Avatar
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    Just found this old thread when looking at pics of Psyclones. So did you ever get that post Out?

    BTW I have the same frame in the same color from the same year and no serial number on mine either.

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