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Thread: Evapo-rust

  1. #1
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    Evapo-rust

    A question for the restoration folks...

    I need to move my youngest on to the the 24" wheeled bike this year,
    1995 Cannondale MC400 (Youth-sized Killer-V with 24" Wheels)

    So I picked up a new CL bike for my oldest, and I'm in the process of tidying it up. Nothing exciting... 2005 C'dale F800 Lefty.

    I tried Evapo-rust on the rusty fasteners and an overnight soak works excellent... my question is what tricks can I use to slow down the return of the orange stuff? Wax? Clear Lacquer?

    TIA
    --------------

    [WTB} 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

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    I haven't tried this but it's just something I thought of while reading this, maybe worth a shot. When I clean my guns I use this stuff called rem oil which cleans and lubricates things then leaves a little film to fight corrosion. Just a thought.
    All vintage all the time. Nothing like a nice chromo frame with some properly adjusted cantilevers.

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    Nothin'? Is this a trade secret or something

    A rainy trip on the bike rack is enough to turn the pockets on screws orange around these parts...
    --------------

    [WTB} 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

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    -If you use wax, go with a silicon-based synthetic to keep from getting white gunk in the tight places like a traditional wax will leave behind.

    -A few metal polishes such as blue magic will do the same job.

    -Before you apply the wax, a bit of clear nail polish applied to the allen head bolt holes will help keep the rust away, but needs to be re-applied occasionally if you are the wrench-happy type.

    -Drying the bike thoroughly after washing and wet rides is your best defense against rust.

    -A leaf blower followed by a good soak in the sunlight does a nice job to dry.

    -Keep the bike stored in a nice dry environment.

    -Cold, dark, and damp garages or basements are not the best spots to store a bike.

    -New stainless hardware is inexpensive, easy to come by at the local hardware store, and doesn't require the attention of the chrome or zinc plated steel fasteners that come on some lower-line components. But be sure to use the appropriate strength fasteners on high stress areas of components.

  5. #5
    Carbon or Commie?
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    Metal polishes, nitric acid, or any number of other ways to create a "passivated" surface, if stainless steel. Google passivation techniques, you might be able to do it at home.

    Paint if carbon steel.

    Alodine, annodize, or paint if aluminum (I'm assuming NOT aluminum, based on the "orange" descriptor of the rust).

    To prevent galvanic corrosion (if you are near the coast, ride in humid/salty environments, or sweat on the bike a LOT), attach magnesium somewhere on the frame, near the points where you don't want the rusting to happen.

    If it's JUST the screws you're worried about rusting, replace them with passivated stainless fasteners, or aluminum fasteners if non-load-bearing, or titanium alloys if you're made of money.

    Coating them in wax will work until the wax wears away, or lets other stuff get gunked up in it. Coating them in oil will work until the oil falls away or gets gunked up.

    I like Fluid Film, if going the oil/covering route. Plenty of others out there. "Rust preventative" would be the google term.

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    And never forget your good friend the air compressor. First thing I do coming in from a wet ride is blow everything off. Be careful to avoid areas that you would actually force water into with the compressed air (brake pivots, bottom brackets, etc).

  7. #7
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    If U R not too concerned about aesthetics and you really just want to prevent the rust from returning, I have uses a product called Rust Mort which changes the chemical composition of rust or residual rust after cleaning. It turns black and provides a shield against further oxidation. Not pretty, but functional and effective.

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    Thanks for the insight guys.

    Stainless is definitely a good way to go if it fits, but sometimes the head won't fit into the pocket in the part etc.

    I've used clear lacquer in the past and maybe I'll just do that again... I was mostly wondering if there were some trick-of-the-trade.

    Again, the selective chelation chemistry from the evapo-rust itself works great for the actual rust removal.

    FWIW, I see that the evapo-rust people make this product that claims 6 month protection:
    Prevent Rust - Rust-Block | Evapo-Rust
    --------------

    [WTB} 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  9. #9
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    Boeshield T9 works well, dries with a waxy coating.
    I had a few too many cans of it around, so my wife got fancy with all the tools this winter, took care of the rusty ones w/ brass wheel on the grinder and sprayed everything with T9.
    There's a couple of other corrosion block sprays out there that are similar (CRC has one IRCC).
    [SIZE=1][/SIZE]

  10. #10
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    Are you neutralizing the evaporust when done? A baking soda solution followed with some wax or oil might help. AMSOIL MP Heavy-Duty Metal Protector

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