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  1. #1
    Fat City Michael
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    BULLSEYE HUBS Still in business?

    Hey All,

    Does anyone know about the phone # at Bullseye Hubs being disconnected?

    I had been speaking with Roger at Bullseye over the past few weeks about replacing a 126mm rear axle for a wheel that I now need a 135mm axle for and I called again today and got a recording that the # "was out of serivce or disconnected"

    Roger just kept forgetting to send my axle out after each time I spoke with him...It's my understanding that he's getting along in age which is understandable why he forgot and he even said that his son will be taking over the business, but now the # doesn't work. Does anyone have further info on their business or any contact info for Roger or his son?

    Thanks,

    Michael-NYC
    FATMIKEYNYC
    STILL Looking For: NOS 176 Non-Drive Cook Bros RSR Crank Arm in silver

  2. #2
    IVMTB & VMBEFG Illuminati
    Reputation: Veloculture's Avatar
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    i dont have any other numbers for contacting them. i tried to buy all kinds of things from Roger but found out it's just best at this point to consider that company out of business. too many people are having way too much trouble with them. Roger is a great guy so it's a shame to see him deteriorate like this.

  3. #3
    VRC Illuminati
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    That should prove to be pretty difficult.

    Quite a few people haven't had the best luck getting stuff from him and his son also seems pretty hit or miss.

    I just wish someone could buy out all their stock and get it to the masses.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  4. #4
    IVMTB & VMBEFG Illuminati
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy

    I just wish someone could buy out all their stock and get it to the masses.
    i tried that too but no luck. i got annoyed and gave up on the idea. maybe someone else will have some lock some day.

  5. #5
    Fat City Michael
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    BULLSEYE HUBS Still in business?

    Quote Originally Posted by Veloculture
    i dont have any other numbers for contacting them. i tried to buy all kinds of things from Roger but found out it's just best at this point to consider that company out of business. too many people are having way too much trouble with them. Roger is a great guy so it's a shame to see him deteriorate like this.
    Roger is a very nice man, it just seems that he's getting a tad forgetful as he's gotten older and that can be an embarrasing and awkward thing for such an innovative guy.
    Each time I called he seemed to not recall our previous conversations but he was always very polite and apologetic but I never got the axles that I had paid for...He did say that his son will be taking over the company, so perhaps we'll just have to wait to see what happens? If anyone hears anything can they please reply here or send me a PM?

    Thanks and have a happy holidays!

    Michael-NYC
    FATMIKEYNYC
    STILL Looking For: NOS 176 Non-Drive Cook Bros RSR Crank Arm in silver

  6. #6
    VRC Illuminati
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    Turn around time for getting parts from them is 12+ months after payment is sent and received.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  7. #7
    full-release guaranteed
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    Turn around time for getting parts from them is 12+ months after payment is sent and received.
    That sucks for you because even though I put in those nice new Phil Wood bearings, the axle is still loose and the wheel wobbles a little. Something in the axle/end caps is not right

  8. #8
    VRC Illuminati
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffss
    That sucks for you because even though I put in those nice new Phil Wood bearings, the axle is still loose and the wheel wobbles a little. Something in the axle/end caps is not right

    Awesome!


    Probably easier, cheaper, or faster to pirate that from other hubs.
    -eric-

    http://www.rumpfy.com
    Wanted: NDS Suntour XC Pro Microdrive 175mm Crank Arm.

  9. #9
    He be a moose too.
    Reputation: pinguwin's Avatar
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    I haven't ordered anything from him but he does seem forgetful (and acknowledges that he is). We talked at length about a webpage for him, trading html for metal, but he too forgot our conversation. Oh well, what was the question?

    Penguin

  10. #10
    VRC Hound
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    Quote Originally Posted by geoffss
    That sucks for you because even though I put in those nice new Phil Wood bearings, the axle is still loose and the wheel wobbles a little. Something in the axle/end caps is not right
    metric to imperial problems no doubt.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumpfy
    Awesome!


    Probably easier, cheaper, or faster to pirate that from other hubs.
    Bullseye hubs are supposed to have a little play as far as I know. Every hub Ive seen has it. Kind of annoying.

  12. #12
    Fat City Michael
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    BULLSEYE HUBS Still in business?

    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed
    Bullseye hubs are supposed to have a little play as far as I know. Every hub Ive seen has it. Kind of annoying.
    I second that statement!

    I had a Bullseye wheelset back in the 80's that were on a Wicked Fat Chance and they were great and rode smooth but actually rattled noisily (sp?) from the play in the hubs, nothing I tried could remedy this! I eventually gave those wheels to a friend and that's about the time that I went to Phil Wood hubs on pretty much every bike.

    I currently have a pretty decent set of wheels that have Bullseye hubs that I got from one of our esteemed members here and I was simply attempting to salvage them for my current Wicked by getting new axles, as the rear wheel has a 126mm not a 135mm thaat the frame is spaced for...Since I doubt that I'll get the axles, please feel free to PM me for info on these wheels if you have a retro wheelset with a 26" x 135mm rear to trade for a Bullseye wheelset in silver/dark gray, radially laced to Specialized hard annodized 32 hole 26" rims with a 126mm rear hub...

    Thanks,

    Michael-NYC
    FATMIKEYNYC
    STILL Looking For: NOS 176 Non-Drive Cook Bros RSR Crank Arm in silver

  13. #13
    Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
    Reputation: DeeEight's Avatar
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    Yeah Roger never learned the metric system... so everything was SAE Imperial sized, makes finding chainring bolts for the cranks always a joy.
    I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

  14. #14
    Bird watcher
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    Either that or roger cut the center spacer too long. Which I have seen on multiple bullseye wheels.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
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    Hub Rattle

    Hey guys,

    Has anyone ever tried using "shim stock" to shim the end caps/axles. Realize that I don't have a clue how the axle assembly works yet. I have a new used front wheel in my car that I'll dig into tonight to find out. We use.0015" thick stainless steel shim stock on our skatboard bearings & trucks to remove the "slop" between the bearings and the axles. I found this on bikepro's site:
    This inner aluminum has a 12mm inner diameter. The 11.96mm outer diameter hollow aluminum axle slides through both bearings and the inner aluminum which reinforces the axle.

    There may be a way for this to work. Just curious what has been tried before I dig in myself.

  16. #16
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    blast from the past ... same axle need dilemma

    Pulling this thread up from the past as I'm facing the same axle requirement dilemma. I have a set of wheel I built in the late 80s for touring (Bullseye hubs with Mavic MA-40 rims, 126mm rear spaced) that I'd like to use on a 130mm spaced frame.

    If Bullseye is no longer an option, any suggestions on a machine shop that has made replacements?

  17. #17
    He be a moose too.
    Reputation: pinguwin's Avatar
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    Bullseye still is in business. I don't have their number handy but look about the forum and you'll find it. They do have an axles but it will take you a long time to get it, in my experience. If you're looking for a 130, I might have one for you. I was sent the wrong axle size and have to call them for a 135 axle. So if it arrives, I'll have a 130 to sell. PM if interested.
    Looking for: Really nice set of black M730 cranks

  18. #18
    mtbr remember
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    Sorry to bring up an old thread here... but hey, isn't that what this forum is about...? old questions about old equipment...

    So, I too have an old fat chance that I put a bullseye hubset onto and the axles rattle like MAD! Nothing I can do to eliminate the play, the spacers with grub/set-screws serve no purpose in eliminating the play which seems to be caused by tolerances between the bearing inner race and the axle being so different. I don't get it, what happened here?

    After just reading this short thread it seems to be a fairly common problem with the bullseyes. Has anyone come up with a remedy?
    Any info or tips are much appreciated.



    Also, it seems Bullseye has their own store on ebay. Selling off old stock items, mostly bmx components though.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  19. #19
    Fat City Michael
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSATORI
    Sorry to bring up an old thread here... but hey, isn't that what this forum is about...? old questions about old equipment...

    So, I too have an old fat chance that I put a bullseye hubset onto and the axles rattle like MAD! Nothing I can do to eliminate the play, the spacers with grub/set-screws serve no purpose in eliminating the play which seems to be caused by tolerances between the bearing inner race and the axle being so different. I don't get it, what happened here?

    After just reading this short thread it seems to be a fairly common problem with the bullseyes. Has anyone come up with a remedy?
    Any info or tips are much appreciated.

    Also, it seems Bullseye has their own store on ebay. Selling off old stock items, mostly bmx components though.
    BikeSATORI,

    I know that some people really love Bullseye Hubs and I think that they're cool, but they do rattle and although it's annoying I don't think that it'll cause any tech or safety problems, but if you read my post above back from 12/26/2006 I had the exact same problem with Bullseyes on my 1987 Fat Chance and I eventually just got rid of the wheels...And as far as the new eBay store for Bullseye, I contacted them a few months ago and they apologized for the 5th time and promised me those hub axles AGAIN that I had paid for in mid 2006 but never received and I still have never gotten anything from them.
    My advice is to sell or trade away your rattley Bullseye wheels if they're annoying you and get some wheels with Phil Wood hubs, I've been riding Phils on my Fat Chances for 20 years since I gave away my Bullseye wheels to a friend and I have never had a problem with them and they are VERY responsive when it comes to customer service...Now they're not cheap, but they certainly won't rip you off!

    Keep us posted on your saga and let us know what you decide to do so you can ride and enjoy your old Fat Chance without hub rattles.
    FATMIKEYNYC
    STILL Looking For: NOS 176 Non-Drive Cook Bros RSR Crank Arm in silver

  20. #20
    mtbr remember
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fatmikeynyc
    BikeSATORI,

    I know that some people really love Bullseye Hubs and I think that they're cool, but they do rattle and although it's annoying I don't think that it'll cause any tech or safety problems, but if you read my post above back from 12/26/2006 I had the exact same problem with Bullseyes on my 1987 Fat Chance and I eventually just got rid of the wheels...And as far as the new eBay store for Bullseye, I contacted them a few months ago and they apologized for the 5th time and promised me those hub axles AGAIN that I had paid for in mid 2006 but never received and I still have never gotten anything from them.
    My advice is to sell or trade away your rattley Bullseye wheels if they're annoying you and get some wheels with Phil Wood hubs, I've been riding Phils on my Fat Chances for 20 years since I gave away my Bullseye wheels to a friend and I have never had a problem with them and they are VERY responsive when it comes to customer service...Now they're not cheap, but they certainly won't rip you off!

    Keep us posted on your saga and let us know what you decide to do so you can ride and enjoy your old Fat Chance without hub rattles.

    Yep, I'm pickin' up what you're layin' down...
    It's just a shame, they were pretty decent hubs and the wheelset I have built up with them is a very nice retro one. Just wanted to see if there was by chance an easy remedy for the hubs.
    I've also got a slick set of matching 3dv Pulstars for the fat chance too... but again, tough and seemingly endless search for some "ti-dye" straight-pull spokes for the rear hub to build up to a purple sun rim I've got. mmmm.... always searching for something, haha.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  21. #21
    bonked
    Reputation: IF52's Avatar
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    It always seemed to me that Bullseye used crappy bearing or at least bearings and concepts that were wrong for the application. When you read their instructions for their cranks it says to leave just a slight amount of looseness to help make the bearings last longer. The hub instruction say something a little different, but in either case you couldn't take out the slack no matter what anyway without putting them bearings in a bind. The bearings they used have way too much clearance to start with and have no way to facilitate preloading them, so you wind up with loose bearings all the time which is murder on the balls and races.

    My friend Rem approached a customer of ours who worked at Bearings Inc in Atlanta many years ago about coming up with better quality replacements. He felt the bearing Bullseye used where junk, but for them to come up with a better replacement we would have to buy a minimum of 1000 pieces. Obviously that never happened.
    Quote Originally Posted by banks
    That is one big f'n dude!
    Yes I am!

  22. #22
    mtbr remember
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    Quote Originally Posted by IF52
    It always seemed to me that Bullseye used crappy bearing or at least bearings and concepts that were wrong for the application. When you read their instructions for their cranks it says to leave just a slight amount of looseness to help make the bearings last longer. The hub instruction say something a little different, but in either case you couldn't take out the slack no matter what anyway without putting them bearings in a bind. The bearings they used have way too much clearance to start with and have no way to facilitate preloading them, so you wind up with loose bearings all the time which is murder on the balls and races.

    My friend Rem approached a customer of ours who worked at Bearings Inc in Atlanta many years ago about coming up with better quality replacements. He felt the bearing Bullseye used where junk, but for them to come up with a better replacement we would have to buy a minimum of 1000 pieces. Obviously that never happened.

    agreed.
    Not being able to properly preload the bb, hub bearings, or headset will IMO lead to premature bearing failure almost just as fast as overtightening... which in most cases wouldn't happen when someone who knows what they are doing are installing the components.


    ...and that reminds me. Maybe I'll give Boca Bearing a call. They can get you almost any size ID/OD bearing, and in almost any grade, from looseball up to full 100% ceramic.
    I just put some ceramics in my old Tioga Revolvers over the last winter and they work perfect! Not a bad price either and quick shipping when ordered over the phone. But, now it seems I'm losing motivation over these bullseye hubs, haha.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  23. #23
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    It's only cup and cone bearings that needs preload, really. And there's no need to worry about some play if it's in the cartridge bearings, it doesn't matter. But if the play is somewhere between the bearing and the hub or axle, that's really bad...

    Standard cartridge bearings (deep groove) of a comparable size typically have a much longer life, and, in theory at least, are faster than angular/cup'n'cone ones. This is mostly because angular bearings by design are put under much higher stress for a given force than standard bearings. What I think is missing from every(?) hub and bb made today is a good labyrinth seal that shields off most of the water and dirt, because the seal that's on the cartridge bearing is simply not capable of keeping contamination out.

  24. #24
    Bike Dork
    Reputation: themanmonkey's Avatar
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    Just so folks know Bullseye looks like they're back up and Roger is fully retired.

  25. #25
    Visitor
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    Yes they are. Drop them a line.

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