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Thread: Alloy Pulleys

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    CS2
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    Alloy Pulleys

    Will any of the current 11T pulleys work on an 80's Deore or XT rear derailleur? I saw some on ebay that looked worth trying.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/6061-Jockey-Whee...item35af8dbfad

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    those look like my Bullesyes

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    Forgive my ignorance, but do alloy pulleys can cause your chain to wear quicker? I know aluminum is softer than steel but it's also harder than plastic.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sizzler
    Forgive my ignorance, but do alloy pulleys can cause your chain to wear quicker? I know aluminum is softer than steel but it's also harder than plastic.
    I doubt they would cause any significant additional wear. Chain wear occurs mostly at the pin interface - cross chaining put the most stress on the chain. The pulleys aren't putting any real stress on the chain.

    However, if the upper pulley does not have some float, which some pulleys do not, it will degrade the shifting quite a bit.
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    CS2
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    Still the question remains, will 11T pulleys work on a derailleur originally equipped with a 10T?

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    Quote Originally Posted by laffeaux
    However, if the upper pulley does not have some float, which some pulleys do not, it will degrade the shifting quite a bit.
    Is this a typo? If you are saying that the alloy pulleys "have" float why is this? Are they not the same width or is it in the bearings?

    I've thought of going to alloy pulleys at times just for the bling. But if they don't work as well probably not worth it.

    Also do they make more noise?
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    No typo, and he`s correct. Many of the alloy pulleys don`t work as well as the stock...

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    Oh. I read it wrong and thought it was a double negative. He is saying that there needs to be float. Why is this? You would think that no float would be more precise.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

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    When the plastic version wore out, we always replaced the top pulley's with the Dura Ace pulley's. They had float, the steel never wore out in mud and grime. They generally tend to last forever.

    I believe they had a later sealed ceramic bushing version too.

    This is the earlier steel bushed version:



    as far as 10t vs 11t

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...83611#poststop
    Last edited by crconsulting; 02-19-2011 at 10:52 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier
    Oh. I read it wrong and thought it was a double negative. He is saying that there needs to be float. Why is this? You would think that no float would be more precise.
    the float allows the pulley to self align a bit after the shift. I think it helps prevent ghost shifting and cuts down on noise.
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier
    You would think that no float would be more precise.
    Thats what Suntour thought...

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    Quote Originally Posted by bushpig
    Thats what Suntour thought...
    And I guess you are saying they were wrong? It's been a long time since I ran a Suntour derailleur. Actually it's been a while since I ran a Shimano except on my commuter bike that has an old 105 on it. I basically never looked back once I tried a Sram. Not saying the new Shim's aren't good, just no experience.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

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    CS2
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier
    And I guess you are saying they were wrong?
    Campy thought the same thing when they entered the indexed era. They thought wrong also. Unlike SunTour they're still in business.

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    On a '80s XT rear derailleur, get the 10 tooth ones. I put some 11 tooth pulleys on my '94 GT w/ LX rear derailleur w/ 10 tooth pulleys and the new chain kept skipping on me every few shifts. I asked the LBS mechanic and he told me to get some 10 tooth ones and the skipping went away instantly. I put the alloy 11 tooth pulleys on my '06 Epic and they replaced the shimano plastic one perfectly with no problem accept a tiny bit more noise. I guess if you're going to upgrade to alloy pulleys, better to go with the same amount of teeth of the stock pulleys.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2
    Still the question remains, will 11T pulleys work on a derailleur originally equipped with a 10T?
    Yes, they should work fine. I have 11T alloy pulleys on 2 bikes that originally had 10T (XTR M952). No problems, but a bit noisier.

    Check out Toronto Cycle for better prices than eBay.

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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier
    And I guess you are saying they were wrong? It's been a long time since I ran a Suntour derailleur. Actually it's been a while since I ran a Shimano except on my commuter bike that has an old 105 on it. I basically never looked back once I tried a Sram. Not saying the new Shim's aren't good, just no experience.
    Shimano have allow a margin of error (they have their own name for it which I forget) in their indexed gearing systems. For the average rider this manifests itself as remarkably reliable shifting regardless of air temperature, contaminants and cable tension. Alloy pulleys look really great, but rarely work any where near as well as decent Shimano ones, the XT sealed units are pricey but worth the extra $$$.
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    CS2
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    Quote Originally Posted by mechagouki
    Shimano have allow a margin of error (they have their own name for it which I forget) in their indexed gearing systems. For the average rider this manifests itself as remarkably reliable shifting regardless of air temperature, contaminants and cable tension. Alloy pulleys look really great, but rarely work any where near as well as decent Shimano ones, the XT sealed units are pricey but worth the extra $$$.
    You can still get some of the XT upper pulleys NOS. Problem, like you said, is that they cost almost as much as derailleur and they're a wear part.

    I believe the Ultegra is the same as the XT upper pulley. Price is $14.95
    http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...p6602-qc49.htm

    A cheaper alternative is the standard 10T Deore.
    http://harriscyclery.net/product/shi...p8350-qc49.htm

    Neither looks as good as the anodized version though.

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