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700C VRC "type/inspired" expedition/gravel/touring build help.

20K views 66 replies 20 participants last post by  CS2 
#1 ·
Hi. I've been lurking on these forums for a log time now soaking in all the pics and builds.

I'm trying to put together a bike out of VRC-era components (actually just older stuff I can get for dirt cheap). Not trying to restore one of the more collectible brands, or ruin a classic by modding it too much.

I want to build a bike for gravel touring, taking dirt shortcuts while commuting, lots of road miles in between.

I saw a few pics of old CX bikes and I've also come across a few CL ads for for Trek bikes that had 700c wheels but were basically mountain bikes, basically old early 90's hybrids with knobbies.

I'm not looking for a modern rigid 29er, I want the horizontal top tube type frame, steel, rack mounts. But I do want t fit some fat rubber on it. (as well as higher pressure commuter tires/slicks)

I plan on repainting it and totally piecing it together. Does NOT have to be VRC-correct, Though I plan on using mostly all old parts.

So I'm wondering if anybody knows any model numbers/names for durable bikes that had 700c's but a lot of clearance for tires (not actual road bikes). I read on a vintage Trek site that the old Treks could fit fenders and 40's while other bikes of the era couldn't. I figure Trek is less collectible and wouldn't be such a travesty to repaint and totally de-original-ize it. Mainly I just need to find a frame, the rest of the components I keep running into. I'll probably harvest from thrift store donor bikes.

Most of the bargain deals are posted by people who just see their item as a rusting old bike and they only know the brand and model from the decals. I'm trying to figure out what brands and models might fit the specs.
 
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#4 ·
Don't discount 70's touring and sports touring bikes. Long, stable, room for fenders and 40's, durable and plentiful. Damn near any thing made in Japan from the mid 70's to the mid 80's will do.
 
#5 ·
Here in the Mid-West there are a lot of Trek 520 touring bikes around. Many lugged, and some came with full DX groups, (besides the bar end shifters), and were really decent rigs. I happen to have one in bits I am going to put back together for gravel riding. It will take 40's easily, and should prove to be pretty nice. We'll see.

But that's another good one to look for.
 
#12 ·
Here in the Mid-West there are a lot of Trek 520 touring bikes around. Many lugged, and some came with full DX groups, (besides the bar end shifters), and were really decent rigs. I happen to have one in bits I am going to put back together for gravel riding. It will take 40's easily, and should prove to be pretty nice. We'll see.

But that's another good one to look for.
The lugged Trek 520 and 750 from the early '90s is perfect. I had a 750 that I used for 'cross racing and as a trail bike in the summer. Could fit 45mm tires. Was the bike that sold me on big wheels off road.
 
#7 ·
Yeah, I'm kinda thinking the Trek is the way to go unless I luck my way across something considered to be better at a yard sale, because I'm looking for bargains, to completely rebuild/paint. The 520's seem to be the one Trek model people kind of see as "valuable", and they usually know what they're selling. I've seen a few "Multi Track" treks that have the bigger rims.
 
#11 ·
There's something about pure road bikes that don't quite instill off road confidence in me. And it could be just appearance and I'm being prejudiced. Touring bikes may be a bit workable, and would have the mounting points. I'm with Tom on the simplicity thing, and that's kinda how I wanna build up this bike. I used to be a full sus/remote lockout type guy. But now I feel that simplicity trend in my self. I love feelin' myself. Don't we all.

Also in that TR interview in a previous paragraph to the gravel bikes/road bikes thing, he was talking about carbon frame failures. Granted, there's not much carbon in the 80's road bikes that are available at the Goodwill. But the race-oriented, faster-at-the-cost-of-being-less-burly aspect of true road bikes kinda keeps me away from them.

In that thread Frog mentioned (thanks for that) there was something about "true big wheeled mountain bikes", as opposed to marketing mistakes, comfort hybrids, etc. I guess I see myself riding this bike on rougher terrain, loaded with camping gear, etc. All the vintage road bikes I see for sale look as spindly-legged as the tall alien at the end of Close Encounters, like they're just gonna snap. Maybe they won't, but riding over ruts and bumps with loaded bags, it would mess me up seeing a twig of a frame under me. Seeing that alien messed me up too when I was a kid, BTW.

Specifically, I want to build up something to ride from Flagstaff to Sedona on the fire roads, and from San Diego out to the Anza Borrego desert (down banner grade). So it's lots of road, and then deserty, scraggy, pebbles and bumps. Basically I pretty much ride to deserts, then ride AROUND IN the desert. It's usually very flat, no drop offs, but very choppy/washboard fire roads, loose sand patches, etc. And to get there I'm on the asphalt for many miles.

I could swap tires once I get out to the whhhilderness. But I guess the (totes currently popular) term "Gravel" isn't exactly right. "Distance Expedition" is probably what I'm doing.

I really like the Bianchi Project (3,5,7) mentioned. Never actually ridden one, but I just searched'em and checked out pics and specs and those seem great. The optimist in me thought there might be a similar type of bike made by a less-collectible classic/retro era company that I would actually be able to find. But it seems more likely that I could just find a frame menat for 26" tires that happens to fit the 700c's.

I'm currently commuting on a rigid/slicked 26er, (100 psi kenda kwests) it rolls smooth but just doesn't feel right for more than 20 miles or so on the pavement. Even on some of the crappier roads around San Diego county it hits those bumps pretty hard. But it's a modern geometry XC MTB...Perhaps with the oldschool geometry, a classic 26" frame would be comfy for 60 miles of asphalt.

I don't wanna get too OT, the reason I posted in this forum was because I always see MTBs from the 80's and 90's for CHEAP. And treasure hunting is part of the fun. I wanna paint it up with a period-style paint job...ok maybe not period style..bad choice of words..."era-appropriate". And I wanna get all nostalgic lookin at the stem and brakes and thinkin about how bikes used to look like that when I got my first mountain bike. But I want to actually ride it, something I can use all the time.

Before I get ultra-flamed, I bow to all of you, who have desirable classics and know more than I do. I'm here because I'm curious (famous last words).
 
#35 ·
I posted in this forum was because I always see MTBs from the 80's and 90's for CHEAP. And treasure hunting is part of the fun. I wanna paint it up with a period-style paint job...ok maybe not period style..bad choice of words..."era-appropriate". And I wanna get all nostalgic lookin at the stem and brakes and thinkin about how bikes used to look like that when I got my first mountain bike. But I want to actually ride it, something I can use all the time.

Before I get ultra-flamed, I bow to all of you, who have desirable classics and know more than I do. I'm here because I'm curious (famous last words).
Sounds good to me.
 
#13 ·
You've mentioned cheap at every post, we get it already. There's a difference between cheap and inexpensive. At the distance you want to do and the location you want to do it in, just don't go too cheap or you're going to be stuck somewhere with no spare parts in sight. There are deals out there. Keep your eye out for those hidden gems.

Everybody have mentioned some great candidates. Stay patient. I have faith that it'll happen.
 
#14 ·
Haha, cool, I gotcha, it's not cheap if you want it now, off ebay, from a collector, the idea is to find one of those good ones as a gem at a garage sale, etc.

Yeah I don't wanna get picked by buzzards next to a shitty bike.

Gonna add that 750 to the list. I'm liking some of the builds I see. nice to know what tires fit which frames, something you can't easily tell from ebay pics.

Thanks all.
 
#57 ·


'83 Trek 600 with a hodge podge of Shimano parts from the bin. 700 x 32 Bontrager Jones X-C tires, no name rando bars. Works great on crusher fines trails, dirt road and on the street... inspired by an article from MBA back in the late 80's about the "Mattise", a style of bike used on the fire roads of CA by a small contingent of riders.

They [80's Trek Touring bikes] don't have to be expensive. Somebody picked one up for $35 a month or so ago.
I found this one (frame/ fork and most of the components) at the local flea market for 10 bucks. 531 main frame, 501 stays, Ishiwata fork w/ long tang SS fork crown (yes, Trek mixed and matched frames and forks).

:thumbsup:
 
#18 ·
Yeah, I was thinking there might be something with similar geometry to the above-mentioned classics/semi classics that was cheaper only because it was a less collectible brand. But the deals are out there I suppose. Nobody is going to put "cheap old retro 700c mountain bike for you yo rebuild as expedition tourer - $40" in their CL title... so that's why I was curious about model names. Finding something good for cheap is even better. It's probably not gonna be on ebay or CL though.

Videos will be taken of all upcoming trips.
 
#23 ·
Miyata Quickcross can be had under $100.00 usually. I paid 35.00 for the first one , and $80.00 for the second one after my son allowed the first to be stolen. They have a aluminum main frame with a steel forks and stays. If anybody sees a green 54cm frame with Suntour barends, canti's Rolf Vector wheels. Campy levers.................... please advise.
 
#30 ·
I considered Pauls. The BMX ones are typically the ones used. And V-problem solvers. All items I'd have to buy.

Mavic adapters: Searched high & low. Some shops remembered them, others thought I was nuts. I still may buy them down the road, but for now, I may get away without them.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
#27 ·
Old school Canti's: Avid tri-align (tall) in back, several other canti's to choose from on the Surly cross check fork. Leaning towards Ritchey. Tektro road lever & cross levers.

The Avids "should" work, they line up ok (by flipping the holders "upside-down") but we'll see when it's all together. I didn't want to have the brake post moved, or do anything to the frame that wouldn't allow me to put it all back to the original 26" flat bar condition.

In the rear: I had a "donor" 135mm axle (shimano) to replace the 130 (road) wheel set i'm using. I didn't want to "clamp squish" the rear triangle.

It's been interesting so far, mixing and matching parts from my basement. Ever try to fit a 9 speed cluster on a 7 speed free hub? If you unbolt the last cog (Sram cassette), you now have a 8 speed, with 9 speed spacing, that fits a 7 speed free hub. I have 9-speed shimano bar end shifters.

Does it work? Don't know yet, it's not completed!
 
#67 ·
It's been interesting so far, mixing and matching parts from my basement. Ever try to fit a 9 speed cluster on a 7 speed free hub? If you unbolt the last cog (Sram cassette), you now have a 8 speed, with 9 speed spacing, that fits a 7 speed free hub. I have 9-speed shimano bar end shifters.

Does it work? Don't know yet, it's not completed!
The late great Sheldon Brown called it 8 of 9 on 7. It gives you access to STI shifters in addition to barcons.
 
#29 ·
So you used the 135mm axle in the road hub with 5mm of washers added? Or you used the entire 135mm hub?

I'm probably gonna go with the (non spider-arms) Sram stuff for the cassette (for customization). I'll probably use a modern hub/freewheel but I wanna do a goofy 11-36 deal (as discussed in elsewhere) either 9 or 10spd, not sure...trying to get away with a 1x setup, but loaded up climbs I may need those rings up front so maybe not.
 
#31 ·
So you used the 135mm axle in the road hub with 5mm of washers added? Or you used the entire 135mm hub?

I'm probably gonna go with the (non spider-arms) Sram stuff for the cassette (for customization). I'll probably use a modern hub/freewheel but I wanna do a goofy 11-36 deal (as discussed in elsewhere) either 9 or 10spd, not sure...trying to get away with a 1x setup, but loaded up climbs I may need those rings up front so maybe not.
Axle with spacers.
 
#34 ·
I am clueless when it comes to measuring geometry and then doing an in-brain virtual simulation of how it would actually handle, which is why I was interested in big wheeled mountain bikes as opposed to converting a 26er frame to use 700c's. I figured the bike designers would have figured everything out to work well, toe overlap, steering, etc. But then again there's plenty of old bikes that handle pretty bad in stock form. Add to that my "amazing" skills and balance...
 
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