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  1. #1
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    1989 Gary Fisher Montare Restoration (pics coming)

    Bit of history first: I am the original owner of this bike. I rode it for a short while when it was new, but I went into the Navy in August of 1989. The bike saw a little bit of dirt here in N.E. Ohio, but it was eventually shipped to me in San Diego CA, where I was going to various schools to become a submarine sonar tech. Spent many hours riding this bike all over S.D.

    Unfortunately, there was no way to lock the bike indoors so it was locked to a bike rack on the anti submarine warfare base in SD. Eventually, someone stripped off the majority of the components. The frame & remaining bits came home with me in '91 when I was on leave prior to reporting to my boat.

    Anyway, I just rediscovered the frame in my step-dad's warehouse & would like to build it back up. All I've done at this point is remove the parts & clean the frame. I'd prefer to use period appropriate parts, but will go on the cheap for now to get it rolling if I can't afford the right stuff initially.

    Stuff I have: Frame & Fork, headset, FD, RD, Cranks, Chainrings, Pedals, Rear brakes.

    NEED: Bar, Stem, Thumbshifters, grips, seat, post, wheels, freewheel & cogs. I think I'd like to replace the biopace rings with something else, never liked them.

    Where is a good place to locate parts? Where is a good place on the net for information about this bike? Any help would be appreciated. I'll post some pics of the frame when I get home.

    1989 Gary Fisher Montare Restoration (pics coming)-fisher-frame-03.jpg

    1989 Gary Fisher Montare Restoration (pics coming)-fisher-frame-04.jpg
    Last edited by B-Mac; 04-16-2010 at 06:29 AM.

  2. #2
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    cool story, wish I could find my old college bike.

    ebay for parts OR craigslist for a donor bike with the similar period parts.

    and post pics.

    thanks

  3. #3
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    Check out firstflight for that bike info. It might b cheaper to buy an old bike with parts that'll fit on yours.
    "Tortured by mental illness" ~monogod

  4. #4
    John Galt
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    Here's the link to First Flight:

    http://www.mombat.org/Fisher_Specs.htm

    Your bike should take pretty standard parts, except for the 'evolution' stem. This means you need a 1 1/4" stem. I assume the bike has a quill stem - if your headset threads on, then that's the case.

    The stem, bar, grips, post and seat were probably Fisher-branded entry-to-mid-level parts, so something like Kalloy (you can find 1 1/4" Kalloy stems on Ebay) would be roughly equivalent to stock.

    You can use a modern 7-speed cassette and 6,7,8-speed chain. SRAM still makes both.

    I recommend getting a decent vernier caliper to measure your seat tube inside diameter and make sure you get the right seat post. Here again, you can buy vintage/correct or new and anything from a more-or-less generic post to a brand-new carbon one (not recommended on a vintage steed..at least by me).

    Most likely, your stem will have a 25.4mm (1") clamp, so that's your bar diameter and you can use whatever you like (stock was probably plain black?).

    Measure the rear dropout spacing and make sure any wheelset you find will work. Here, too, anything with the right spacing and hub size for your cassette (7-speed is different from 8- and 9-speed) will work - of course, the rims needs to work with rim brakes.

    7-speed thumb shifters will be an Ebay item and Deore are fairly plentiful and not too expensive. XT will have a higher price.

    The brake will be an Ebay item - if you luck out and find only one canti brake to match yours, it probably won't cost you much.

    Grips can be new or period. I use Ritchey True grips on lots of bikes - they're essentially period correct, but brand new and comfy.

    All-in-all, I'd bet you could get it running on the cheap (and doing the work yourself) for $100 or less. To go period-correct, but not too high end, would be $150-200. You can go up from there.

    If you have questions on where to measure things or how to do any of the work, google what you're looking for and Sheldon Brown and you'll find a wealth of knowledge!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by cegrover
    Here's the link to First Flight:

    http://www.mombat.org/Fisher_Specs.htm

    Your bike should take pretty standard parts, except for the 'evolution' stem. This means you need a 1 1/4" stem. I assume the bike has a quill stem - if your headset threads on, then that's the case.

    The stem, bar, grips, post and seat were probably Fisher-branded entry-to-mid-level parts, so something like Kalloy (you can find 1 1/4" Kalloy stems on Ebay) would be roughly equivalent to stock.

    You can use a modern 7-speed cassette and 6,7,8-speed chain. SRAM still makes both.

    I recommend getting a decent vernier caliper to measure your seat tube inside diameter and make sure you get the right seat post. Here again, you can buy vintage/correct or new and anything from a more-or-less generic post to a brand-new carbon one (not recommended on a vintage steed..at least by me).

    Most likely, your stem will have a 25.4mm (1") clamp, so that's your bar diameter and you can use whatever you like (stock was probably plain black?).

    Measure the rear dropout spacing and make sure any wheelset you find will work. Here, too, anything with the right spacing and hub size for your cassette (7-speed is different from 8- and 9-speed) will work - of course, the rims needs to work with rim brakes.

    7-speed thumb shifters will be an Ebay item and Deore are fairly plentiful and not too expensive. XT will have a higher price.

    The brake will be an Ebay item - if you luck out and find only one canti brake to match yours, it probably won't cost you much.

    Grips can be new or period. I use Ritchey True grips on lots of bikes - they're essentially period correct, but brand new and comfy.

    All-in-all, I'd bet you could get it running on the cheap (and doing the work yourself) for $100 or less. To go period-correct, but not too high end, would be $150-200. You can go up from there.

    If you have questions on where to measure things or how to do any of the work, google what you're looking for and Sheldon Brown and you'll find a wealth of knowledge!
    Thanks a ton cegrover, great info. Going to start scanning e-bay for parts. Crappy cell phone pics of the frame are up btw.

  6. #6
    John Galt
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    No problem - I just realized how LONG that post was.

    That frame is a 1988, as far as I know. I used to have one just like it. Given that, my previous comment on the rear brake doesn't stand. You will need a Shimano U-brake (Deore or XT will work) or a Suntour/Cunningham rollercam brake. Neither is available new, but they're commonly on Ebay.

    Here's one like it at MOMBAT:

    http://mombat.org/1988_Fisher_Montare.htm

    Edit: Also, because it's not a 1989 or 1990, you don't have the 1 1/4" stem. Any 1" stem will work, just make sure the stem has a brake cable hanger built in OR you get one that goes in the headset.

  7. #7
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    Good luck on the resto! A Fisher Montare ('87, I think- it was blood red) was my first 'real' MTB. It was stolen when about 6 months old, but I got it back. Having bought a Klein, the Fisher was sold.

  8. #8
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    I like that bike. It is a cool one.

  9. #9
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    Agreed. Sweet bike, and nice to resurrect an old friend. Despite the abandonment it seems to be in pretty good shape!
    Somec is like the digital Zunow
    And this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JD5h3y0a9AU

  10. #10
    artistic...
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    that would make a nice drop bar mtb.
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  11. #11
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    a PICKY thing

    to the original poster.... its a "Fisher" not a "Gary Fisher" You have a bike that is soooo not a Gary Fisher.. got it running?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fisher4sure
    to the original poster.... its a "Fisher" not a "Gary Fisher" You have a bike that is soooo not a Gary Fisher.. got it running?
    Aaaah. Was not aware there is a difference. What is the difference - post trek buyout or something?

    The bike is not done. Fairly massive delay due to a death in the family. I've found a possible parts bike, but it's from 1994 - a (Gary?) Fisher Tassajara. It has trigger shifters instead of thumbshifters, but believe that many of the parts will work, even if not 100% true to the original. Frankly I'd rather just see it rolling again then sweat whether each part is period correct or not. Thumbshifters, however, are necessary here LOL . . . .

  13. #13
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    One additional note - realize that I'm preaching to the choir here - HOLY CRAP are vintage parts expensive!!!! There's a perfect 6-speed rear lever on e-bay right now with a "buy now" price of $99.

  14. #14
    artistic...
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    Quote Originally Posted by B-Mac
    One additional note - realize that I'm preaching to the choir here - HOLY CRAP are vintage parts expensive!!!! There's a perfect 6-speed rear lever on e-bay right now with a "buy now" price of $99.
    don't spend more than $50 on those. wait, make connections on vintage bike forums and your luck will change. retrobike.co.uk is another place to look for.
    want: Ibis ti handlebar. suntour 31.8 front derr. bottom pull

  15. #15
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    Well.. I could be wrong but I believe the Gary Fisher thing came about after a sell out of some sort. My "Fish" is a 1985 made ..sold in 86.. Mt Tam. It was one of the top of the line non comp bikes. I will post some pics soon. I have a few 'non original' parts on it .. The BULLMOOSE handle bars went bye bye the first year I had it.. They were soooo freakin heavy. I put an sis compatible gear set on the rear hub the 2nd year I had it.. never switched over to the SIS thing tho.. still have the friction shifters. The rims and original hubs are still there .. I dont know how many thousand miles I have on them! I did one thing long ago that I credit the longevity of the moving parts to. AMSOIL grease!! That and really good construction! It pays to buy the best! This baby cost me $1600.00 in '86 but it was sooo worth it!

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