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  1. #1
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    Rear wheel - 135 mm vs 142 mm

    I just ordered a new El Rey and have a question. Do I go with a 135 mm rear wheel or upgrade to 142 mm? I am 6'6" and about 225 lbs. Would the bigger size be noticable? I have only ridden 135 mm....

  2. #2
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    What rear wheel are you running now? I run Kings with fun bolts instead of QRs (135mm) and are plenty stiff. I think there are other hub options with 10mm TAs that should make it plenty stiff.. or are you building a wheelset from scratch?

    From what I understand, the 142mm option was created for easier wheel removal--not really stiffness.
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  3. #3
    Nightriding rules SuperModerator
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    It should be stiffer at the axle interface, but it does not build a stronger wheel since the hub shells are usually the same.

    10mm/135mm bolt on options also so provide a fairly stiff interface

    Some hubs like Hope Pro 2 can be converted to 142mm

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    I'm using Hope hubs with Flow rims. I saw that Hopes can be converted to a 12x142 axle and was wondering if this was a useful modification....kinda similar to the upgrade on going from a 9 mm QR to a 15 mm thru axle on the front?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbk99 View Post
    I'm using Hope hubs with Flow rims. I saw that Hopes can be converted to a 12x142 axle and was wondering if this was a useful modification....kinda similar to the upgrade on going from a 9 mm QR to a 15 mm thru axle on the front?
    You have the correct thought.

    As Cris pointed out the hub shells are the same, so the wheel itself is not stronger. But the interface between the hub and the rear triangle is, for multiple reasons. First, the "thru axle" part, the axle connects into the dropouts with a 12mm interface, a full 17% larger diameter than the 10mm. Second the mechanical connection is 360 degree's arround the axle, not just the QR faceplate squeezing the hub face against the dropout.

    So that's the long winded version of yes it's a useful modificaton just like 9 to 15mm, although I prefer the 20mm TA.
    -Aaron G.

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  6. #6
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    At 6'6" and 225lbs I'd say for sure to the conversion. There's no drawback to having an even laterally stiffer rear triangle, right? So why not? Yer a tall guy and tall guys put a ton of torque in funny ways into bikes. I just did the Hope Conversion, it was easy to do. (Although, as it stands there's a bit of an issue with the Maxle used in the back on the 142mm, but nothing a little grinder work to the Maxle compression ring won't solve).
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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14 View Post
    At 6'6" and 225lbs I'd say for sure to the conversion. There's no drawback to having an even laterally stiffer rear triangle, right? So why not? Yer a tall guy and tall guys put a ton of torque in funny ways into bikes. I just did the Hope Conversion, it was easy to do. (Although, as it stands there's a bit of an issue with the Maxle used in the back on the 142mm, but nothing a little grinder work to the Maxle compression ring won't solve).
    Semi-hijack...

    Can a Pro II rear be converted to 10mm Thru? What about a Hope XC? Thanks.
    -Aaron G.

    "Before D.W., "anti-squat" was referred to as pedal feedback."

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ciclistagonzo View Post
    Semi-hijack...

    Can a Pro II rear be converted to 10mm Thru? What about a Hope XC? Thanks.
    The Pro II to 10mm sure. That XC, not so much as I believe they use a smaller diameter bearing. But I'd have to check to make 100% sure....
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14 View Post
    The Pro II to 10mm sure. That XC, not so much as I believe they use a smaller diameter bearing. But I'd have to check to make 100% sure....
    Cool, if I only had $$$ , or I should say, if my $$ wasn't already pre-spent!
    -Aaron G.

    "Before D.W., "anti-squat" was referred to as pedal feedback."

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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14 View Post
    At 6'6" and 225lbs I'd say for sure to the conversion. There's no drawback to having an even laterally stiffer rear triangle, right? So why not? Yer a tall guy and tall guys put a ton of torque in funny ways into bikes. I just did the Hope Conversion, it was easy to do. (Although, as it stands there's a bit of an issue with the Maxle used in the back on the 142mm, but nothing a little grinder work to the Maxle compression ring won't solve).
    Thanks...Other than the nomical cost for the droupouts and axle conversion, I don't see a downside, either. I'm sold.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbk99 View Post
    Thanks...Other than the nomical cost for the droupouts and axle conversion, I don't see a downside, either. I'm sold.
    Happy extra stiff riding to you, TallMan.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ciclistagonzo View Post
    Cool, if I only had $$$ , or I should say, if my $$ wasn't already pre-spent!
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    I guess some people are a little sensitive to my political references......it's my opinion or joke and unless I violate mtbr rules then you can eat it sucker. One more thing do you think mtn biking is void of politics? What rock have you been hidding under.
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  13. #13
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    135mm w/ 10mm TA is plenty stiff, I wouldn't change a thing if I was after a new wheelset.
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  14. #14
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    So, If I have a Chris King hub on the rear running a normal qr 9mm skewer, what are the simple options?
    What are FUN bolts?
    What do you need to do to convert to 10mm or Fun bolts etc?
    RTR

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by pakdoc View Post
    So, If I have a Chris King hub on the rear running a normal qr 9mm skewer, what are the simple options?
    What are FUN bolts?
    What do you need to do to convert to 10mm or Fun bolts etc?
    Chris King offers a 142 x 12mm Axle conversion if you decided to go that route. The Fun Bolts do provide a better interface then just using a quick release.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by pakdoc View Post
    So, If I have a Chris King hub on the rear running a normal qr 9mm skewer, what are the simple options?
    What are FUN bolts?
    What do you need to do to convert to 10mm or Fun bolts etc?
    You don't need anything other than an allen wrench (or a couple) to run fun bolts. They retail for something like $40 and you replace the sleeve in the hub used for the QR skewer. Once you take that out, screw in the fun bolts and use an 8mm allen to tighten them.

    The 12mm TA and the conversion kit are more expensive, and truthfully, the fun bolts should give you enough stiffness.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    You don't need anything other than an allen wrench (or a couple) to run fun bolts. They retail for something like $40 and you replace the sleeve in the hub used for the QR skewer. Once you take that out, screw in the fun bolts and use an 8mm allen to tighten them.

    The 12mm TA and the conversion kit are more expensive, and truthfully, the fun bolts should give you enough stiffness.

    Thru axle can be installed, at least in theory, without any tools. And th least thing I want to do if have to pull out tools to take the back wheel off and on when you throw it in the back of a car.

    Fun Bolts never seemed that 'fun' to me anyway. Silly name.
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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Internal14 View Post
    Thru axle can be installed, at least in theory, without any tools. And th least thing I want to do if have to pull out tools to take the back wheel off and on when you throw it in the back of a car.

    Fun Bolts never seemed that 'fun' to me anyway. Silly name.
    Ok, good point. Not that an 8mm allen wrench is hard to deal with

    It's more I don't think you get that much more stiffness since the body is still a 135mm shell, right? Let me know if I'm wrong, because I'm not an engineer.

    The tool-lessness is very appealing, especially how frequently I play musical tires. And having no tools needed for my 20mm TA in the front is nice, so it might be nice for the rear. Maybe next year I'll change things out if I get upgraditis. Right now, I'm really digging my 2012 Ciclon even with fun bolts
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    Ok, good point. Not that an 8mm allen wrench is hard to deal with

    It's more I don't think you get that much more stiffness since the body is still a 135mm shell, right? Let me know if I'm wrong, because I'm not an engineer.

    :
    See my first post, already answered that. No the Wheel is not stiffer but the interface betwix the axle and the rear tri is stronger with the TA. The fun bolts don't add anything to the equation except mechanically squeezing the dropout harder than you can with a QR. And I agree with Myke, I prefer toolless 10mm TA. (reminds me I need to call Myke...)
    -Aaron G.

    "Before D.W., "anti-squat" was referred to as pedal feedback."

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ciclistagonzo View Post
    See my first post, already answered that. No the Wheel is not stiffer but the interface betwix the axle and the rear tri is stronger with the TA. The fun bolts don't add anything to the equation except mechanically squeezing the dropout harder than you can with a QR. And I agree with Myke, I prefer toolless 10mm TA. (reminds me I need to call Myke...)
    I'm be curious to actual ride comparison, but yeah, maybe next year's project. Toolless definitely sounds like a plan.
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  21. #21
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    I haven't found the Chris King hub with Funn Bolts to be all that difficult. Other than digging around for the allen wrench, it's not that much slower than a quick release. As for the claimed additional stiffness the Funn Bolts add, I'm not sure. I went from a Santa Cruz Superlight to an X-5 with the heavy duty rear, so there's not really much comparison.

    If I had a choice now, I'd probably go with the 142 rear. Everything I've read makes sense to me and it's kind of cool that the 142 axle was designed to use the 135 hub body and keep all of our wheelsets from going obsolete.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    You don't need anything other than an allen wrench (or a couple) to run fun bolts. They retail for something like $40 and you replace the sleeve in the hub used for the QR skewer. Once you take that out, screw in the fun bolts and use an 8mm allen to tighten them.

    The 12mm TA and the conversion kit are more expensive, and truthfully, the fun bolts should give you enough stiffness.
    ...i'm not up to par on the rear axle thing and just got back on my la bruja after not riding for over three months. i have a CK rear hub on it with QR and road north*, downieV and also jumps. what should i do to the hub to make it clamp better or stronger at the rear drop out. fun bolts or what ? ...ralph
    i need to ride more. building jumps takes to much time...my other hobby is kicking the crap outta my home built mook jong.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1962 View Post
    ...i'm not up to par on the rear axle thing and just got back on my la bruja after not riding for over three months. i have a CK rear hub on it with QR and road north*, downieV and also jumps. what should i do to the hub to make it clamp better or stronger at the rear drop out. fun bolts or what ? ...ralph
    Fun Bolts most likely. The 142mm dropouts are for the new bikes unless Sherwood wants to retrofit the old rear triangles.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    You don't need anything other than an allen wrench (or a couple) to run fun bolts. They retail for something like $40 and you replace the sleeve in the hub used for the QR skewer. Once you take that out, screw in the fun bolts and use an 8mm allen to tighten them.

    The 12mm TA and the conversion kit are more expensive, and truthfully, the fun bolts should give you enough stiffness.
    ...i was just thinking since you have to change the sleeve (axle) and the fun bolts cost $40 then you also have to buy the axle for the fun bolts. whats that cost ?...ralph
    i need to ride more. building jumps takes to much time...my other hobby is kicking the crap outta my home built mook jong.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1962 View Post
    ...i was just thinking since you have to change the sleeve (axle) and the fun bolts cost $40 then you also have to buy the axle for the fun bolts. whats that cost ?...ralph
    If you have relatively new enough King hubs, you don't have to change the axle--you just remove the 9mm QR sleeves. The fun bolts and QR 9mm axles are the same in the rear hubs, and have been for a few years.

    If they're older, I don't remember how much the rear axle was.. something like $60.. I think, check with an LBS or whoever you buy your parts from.
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