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  1. #1
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    WTF! only ridden 4 times

    man, i came home today, took my 09 p1 out, and went for a ride. thats where the **** hit the fan
    1. all of a sudden my rear tire goes flat in seconds
    2. i start to push the bike back home and the freakin front tire goes flat in the same manner
    3. i push the bike home flip it over to check out the tires and i see a big chunk of paint missing from the bb
    4. too top it all off i dont even have the right wrenches to remove the wheels
    needless to say im a wee bit freakin pissed right now

  2. #2
    Bikes Rule
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    Your mad that you got a flat tire? Sorry dude but GTFU. You are in for a long life..

  3. #3
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    typed it wrong. 2 flat tires and a big ass paint chip on a bike thats been ridin 4 times

  4. #4
    i also unicycle
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    have you figured out what caused the flats? and depending on how/where you've been riding, knocking a bit of paint off isn't unlikely.

    i love it when people get a new bike and shortly thereafter get a flat, then come back to me (at the shop) all pissed about it, *****ing about warranty this, and you'd better take care if it that. it's either A) they ran over something very sharp, ie nail, glass, etc, or B) a bmx bike that some kid bashed into a curb or similar with low-ish pressure and pinched it.

    //edit: there's a edit button for a reason. see, i used it.
    mtbr says you should know: i work in a bike shop.
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  5. #5
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    i was riding on pavement and had the tires set to 70 psi like the lbs mechanic told me even though the tires are rated for 50. how much is this gonna cost me and what size wrenches do i need to remove wheels with 3.8" axles

  6. #6
    i also unicycle
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    should need 15 mm wrenches, first guess, by inflating them that much, you probably got a puncture from a spoke hole, due to the crappy stock rim strip and higher pressure. but take it apart and investigate, shoot some air into the tubes to find out where the hole is and then figure out why it happened.
    mtbr says you should know: i work in a bike shop.
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  7. #7
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKOOBEY
    i was riding on pavement and had the tires set to 70 psi like the lbs mechanic told me even though the tires are rated for 50. how much is this gonna cost me and what size wrenches do i need to remove wheels with 3.8" axles

    And therein lies your problem. 50 psi should be enough for pavement riding. 70 is too much when the tires are rated for 20 psi less...
    Axle Standards Explained

    Founder at North Atlantic Dirt, riding & writing about trails in the northeast.

  8. #8
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    I disagree... ^^
    I run my tires at around 65-70 and they're rated for 50. Hell, MOST people I know who actually RIDE their bikes on the pavement (and by pavement I mean "street" riding, not just cruising) run high pressures too. I haven't had a single pinchflat since I've upped the pressure, and that was at the beginning of summer. If anything, the higher PSI helped his problems with pinchflating, and only would've hurt him has his casings blown, or a spoke cut thru the rim-strip.

  9. #9
    Rollin' twenties.
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    A paint chip? Really? Are you twelve?



    My bike has no paint, rust, dents, and liver spots. And I like that, cause I RIDE MY BIKE.

  10. #10
    Rollin' twenties.
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    Oh and psi should be as close to three digits as possible.

    70 is not enough, unless you "ride pavement," then its enough.

  11. #11
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    Have the lbs you got it from go through it with you and and show you what to look for. It will be done right that way and you will also learn about wrenching on your own stuff in the process.---- Unless shops now are full of dudes like some of the guys on here who are total dick$ about new rider questions and concerns.---- And you will start to build the ever important relationship with your shop. But you or the shop won't know what's wrong till you have it apart. When I was at a shop we would always help people out that were new to the scene all the time. Besides, you gave them $900+ of your own hard work so they should be willing to show you basic bicycle maintenance. Don't go in pointing fingers though until you find out what happened.

    - On my P's first ride I got a paint chip on my top tube after a very minor bail (dropped the bike after not rolling a 180 out right). Since then I have noticed that the underside of the downtube has little chips in the paint from small rocks/gravel being thrown up by the tires. Regardless , the kind of riding your bike is made for you will be beating it up all over the place.
    Last edited by JGill; 02-25-2009 at 09:34 PM.

  12. #12
    pnj
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    I know I'm probably not alone when I say I've had more then four flats in one day...

    it happens.

  13. #13
    Meh.
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    Either you ran over something or the rim strip has shifted out of place.

  14. #14
    Rb
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    Quote Originally Posted by aggiebiker
    A paint chip? Really? Are you twelve?
    haha

  15. #15
    azn
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    do you guys patch up your punctured tubes? or just buy new ones?

  16. #16
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    I have a standing record of over 30 punctures or so in one tube, he he he. I still have it...somewhere. I actually classified as my lucky tyre, erm, ironically.

  17. #17
    Hip
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    Congrats....you got your first chip! Now thrash it!!

    Dont feel bad...I got a new P2 Saturday and rode it for 2 minutes when I did a 180 and waffled the back rim. They rebuilt it Tuesday under warranty. Ill let youknow how it fairs at the park tonight! I heard the rims are S**T so I am expecting it to be a short night but I hope not. Ordering Azonics for it next week.

  18. #18
    Bikes Rule
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    Remove the cheap rim strips and use Velox rim tape.

    Replace tubes.

    Ride.

  19. #19
    pnj
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    learn how to patch. it's quicker and works as well as a new tube.
    You can even use old tubes for patch pieces...

  20. #20
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    what threw me about this post - is the fact you did not even have the tools to work on or repair the simplest of things!! Owning a bike w/out the most basic tools is retarded.
    get a tube or patch kit, pump and any tools you need for quick repairs and BRING THEM WITH YOU. It'll save you from walkin in the future

    *note - unless you're running road tires...70psi is waaay to high
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  21. #21
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    man, i have an a**load of tools but thier all for my old motocross bike and thier all metric and i have no 15mm. btw, i took the bike to a mtb dj/freeride shop at lunch and they are making my bike better than new. maxxis holyrollers, dh tubes, and wheels trued and tensioned properly

  22. #22
    Meh.
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    Bikes are all metric too...

    DH tubes are overkill. I've been running ultralight tubes in XC tires pumped up to 80. They used to be in Holy Rollers at 70.

  23. #23
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    i know but nothing on my motocross bikes gas ever been 15mm. allmost everything on a jap motocrosser is 6,8,10,12,14,17, or 19mm

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by aggiebiker
    A paint chip? Really? Are you twelve?



    My bike has no paint, rust, dents, and liver spots. And I like that, cause I RIDE MY BIKE.



    so your bike is raw 4130 and has no clearcoat. thing must look like the inside of a barbeque pit

  25. #25
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    im sure all my hubs and stuff is 17mm. the only thing i can think of that is 15mm is the pedals
    i ride my bi*ch hard

  26. #26
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    allright. i know this is probably a stupid arse noob question so im sporting a flame suit will 4130 chromo bicycle tubing rust enough to affect the structural integrity of a frame. should i worry about fixing the nicks and scratches on the bb and downtube of my bike or forget all about em and ride? i figure my bikes gonna take a good beating and get plenty scratched up

  27. #27
    Meh.
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    As much as I hate to advocate the use of this tool... You don't have an adjustable wrench?

    Chromo is steel. Steel rusts.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by the_godfather
    im sure all my hubs and stuff is 17mm. the only thing i can think of that is 15mm is the pedals
    Yes...17mm for the axle nuts for rear (sometimes 15mm for front - usually cheaper wally world and kids bikes)
    as for protecting the steel...keep it dried and maybe use some wax on the bare metal from time to time (carnuba, paraffin et al)
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  29. #29
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    well damn. i shoulda bought aluminum then fixin every little rock chip and scratch is gonna be a *****. if it doesn't get worse than surface rust on chromoly and doesn't weaken the frame for a few years then im good with that

  30. #30
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    If your hub/axle is the same as my 08, your hub will use a 15mm come wrench too. A cone wrench is basically a super thin open end wrench made to fit the thinner nuts.

    Over the many years of riding, even the ones where you are 8 years old and leave your bike outside and ride in the rain all day, I don't recall ever seeing a small paint chip show rust on the bare metal. My toptube has a chip a little smaller than a dime and has smooth bare metal showing and it doesn't have any rust on it. It happened almost a year ago too. If you want to be safe you can just coat it with something, but I wouldn't worry too much. Your bike will see alot worse in the near future. I wouldn't fret too much about it.

  31. #31
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    thanks for the info JGill

  32. #32
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    ^^^ haha true...but I don't think he needs to worry about cone wrenches right now
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  33. #33
    Meh.
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    Cromoly will rust... even high quality tubing. I've seen Nemesis frames with rust. I've seen plenty of bikes with rust around chips. I've seen the inside of bottom bracket shells full of rust.

    There are different things that you can spray down the seat tube to prevent corrosion from the inside.

  34. #34
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    dont you have to take the whole bike apart to apply that? i would like to see a poll on who and who hasn't done that to thier chro-mo dj'er and how long they've had thier bike as well

  35. #35
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    You can apply it to just inside the seat tube and BB shell. That's where water is mostly likely to make it's way in. Doesn't matter how much you dismantle it... you're going to have a hell of a time getting it in the stays... and all the way through the TT and DT.

    I've seen BMX bikes left outside that rust very quickly. I've seen BMX bikes from the 80s that are still pristine. It has to do with care.

  36. #36
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    so you're sayin i just can pull the seatpost out and spray some fogging oil in there and it wont muck up the bb

  37. #37
    Meh.
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    I don't think you should be working on your bike at all...

  38. #38
    Cut Casing Whisperer
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    Rust is a protectant. Once there it seals the surface. It won' t destroy the frame. That is why there are 30 year old steel frames that have been stored outside still cruising about without issue.

    We aren't riding on salted roads so it won't be eaten like a car.

    P

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P
    Rust is a protectant. Once there it seals the surface. It won' t destroy the frame. That is why there are 30 year old steel frames that have been stored outside still cruising about without issue.

    We aren't riding on salted roads so it won't be eaten like a car.

    P
    False.

    Oxidation on a aluminum frame will protect it from oxidizing further.

    Iron oxide is different. It can oxidize all the way through. Any iron mass will eventually convert completely. Iron(II) will form a passivation layer. Iron(III) will flake off and expose fresh metal to be affected.

    Some steel alloys are more resistant to rust than others.
    Last edited by XSL_WiLL; 02-26-2009 at 02:40 PM.

  40. #40
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    im a mtb noob not a wrench noob. im just tryin to learn some stuff about them. i dont know if a BB is sealed from the inside but i can take apart and reassemble dirt bike engines and transmissions in my sleep. thanks man

  41. #41
    Meh.
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    Wrenching on a bike is not the same as wrenching on a car or dirt bike. And you don't have many tools... and there are many part specific tools.

  42. #42
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    so you fix every scratch on your dirtjumper?

  43. #43
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    I ride aluminum or I powdercoat.

    I am also meticulous about bicycle care.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    I don't think you should be working on your bike at all...
    he can do it (workin' on the bike that is)...just baby steps is all..
    Learn to work on changin' a tire - and go from there...
    maybe try posting in the Beginners (possibly Tooltime) section for further assistance - as this is more of a learning issue than something specific to Urban/DJ/Park. Many more resources to be had there for sure
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  45. #45
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    OK

  46. #46
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    How old are you Skoobey? You seem really niave (sp?) You take this a tad too serious and will is having way too much fun with you. He just loves the opportunity to flex his knowledge. Don't get me wrong he knows his stuff and does help riders out from time to time.

    I have chips all over my 20 and it has surface rust and I keep it indoors. Now I ride the ish out of it and don't wipe it down so the rust is an added plus. Gives it character. So go ride your bike and quit acting like a douche.

  47. #47
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    old enough to not care about his infinite wisdom. your right, im not a mtb veteran or a metallurgist. im just tyrin to learn

  48. #48
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    I'm guessing 15. I didn't say you were or were not a veteran or guru of some sort. Really I said just go ride your bike. You'll learn everything you need to know in due time. Like as you break things you'll learn how they work, how to install em or maintain them. Like your tubes at this point.

  49. #49
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    don't worry about the scratch! i have owned many steel bikes and some aluminium bikes. one of my steel bike is about 10 years old. it has rust on it and it hasn't broken yet. Don't treat your bike like s**t. have some common sense. don't treat it like crap and all will be fine. in my experience steel frame last longer. aluminium fatigues and cracks a lot quicker than steel rusts (as long as its treated ok) even bikes that are left outside and treated like absolute crap last years and years.
    i ride my bi*ch hard

  50. #50
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    **** happens.
    I wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then.

  51. #51
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    Are we still giving him crap for complaining about flat tires and a paint chip on the bb shell?

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanjuro
    Are we still giving him crap for complaining about flat tires and a paint chip on the bb shell?
    No that was like...so 17 hours ago...jeez keep up with the times will you?
    I wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then.

  53. #53
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    Christ....We all started somewhere.... grab a bike maintenance book from a bookstore or go back to your LBS and see what they recommend for you to get to learn the ropes of routine maintenance and the kinds of tools that you will need. There are quite a few different companies that make tool kits that you can buy to start out with and then add to the collection as your knowledge and skills progress. Check on-line retailers and your LBS for what is available. Park Tool and Zinn both have pretty well laid out books that will help you out tremendously. Just make sure you are having fun riding AND working on your bike sometimes. Fixing that first problem that keeps you off the bike and the first ride after it's fixed will get you psyched.

  54. #54
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    ^^^tick-tock...evolution happens quickly eh?

    *edit - directed towards 'tibug' and 'sanjuro's comments
    Honestly... ahh I give up

  55. #55
    pnj
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    There is no way a steel frame could rust quick enough to effect the structural integrity of the frame..

  56. #56
    Rollin' twenties.
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    Quote Originally Posted by SKOOBEY
    so your bike is raw 4130 and has no clearcoat. thing must look like the inside of a barbeque pit
    Nah its clear coated, the clear pealed off the steal a little in some spots though, it doesnt look that bad...

  57. #57
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    Working on a dirt trail bike and a MTBike are comparative to working on a nuclear reactor and that of a simple stirling engine...to use a loose analogy. Both produce energy although the mechanics of course are not the same. MTBikes are very very...did I say VERY, simple things to wrench on generally speaking and DJ bikes are quite simple things - give or take some designs etc etc..; and of course a BMX is perhaps as base as it gets. When you start getting into wrenching on your own suspension, hubs and the more complex side of MTB things, then thats another learning curve again and one in which I am still learning. Doing my own shocks is a really interesting aspect of the life, if you have all the right tools, parts, fluids/lubes and yet if not...its like a godamn nightmare. You just have to go to the beginners corner to see that.

    But hey, have fun...the only way to learn is by doing...so go do lol!

    And your tubes comment though (to go back to the "Oh so 17hours ago era"). It really makes me wonder about your other comment with wrenching on dirt trail motor bikes, because if you can do that in your sleep MANY MANY similar principles apply and motor bike are in thier own nature far more complex in their maintanence than Bikes. Of course not exactly the same, but I guess my point is that you seem to be a bit..whats the word...(?)...ah, "Tetchy" about your knowledge and as I said, if you can work on a motorbike, a MTB is easier by far in comparison. My OP is that, it really does not matter lol, learning is a great thing and dont let any of the trolls or twats on here make you feel stupid for NOT knowing stuff...even basic stuff.

    Go ride...and if you are worried about the paint chpis and rust...then, completely use a paint remover and take off the dodgy cheap powder coating, buff it back t o bare polished metal and simply re-coat it in clear, or do your own spray job and then coat it in clear...!?

    What ever pops your cap...

  58. #58
    Roll on Spring Time!
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    If you really worried, buy some nail varnish. Wont last forever but it'll do. My hardtail was powder coated, as original, and I have to say one of the best jobs I ever seen. I applied some nail varnish to some of my old stem bolts and brake rotor bolts etc and they have been mint since. Get some sparkly stuff and you can go custom.
    I just want to ride.

  59. #59
    Allday Haro
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    ever find out what you ran over?

  60. #60
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    Is this really a thread?

    It takes more time to post this thread than to fix those problems. You really tear down dirtbikes without a complete set of metric sockets?

  61. #61
    GAME ON!
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    please move this thread to pinkbike.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  62. #62
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    ...................ha Ha Ha..................

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by JFoster
    Is this really a thread?

    It takes more time to post this thread than to fix those problems. You really tear down dirtbikes without a complete set of metric sockets?
    Good point. You don't even have an adjustable wrench to take off a wheel? Hell even a 10 year old can fix a flat with ease.

  64. #64
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    I love this forum !!!

  65. #65
    azn
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    Quote Originally Posted by JFoster
    Is this really a thread?

    It takes more time to post this thread than to fix those problems. You really tear down dirtbikes without a complete set of metric sockets?
    and its not like a bike is that complex. I guarantee if you have to tools to tear apart your dirtbike, you have more than enough tools to tear your bike apart.

    Honestly, aside from removing the bb, all I need is a set of allen wrenches and a crescent wrench to take apart/fix my bike.
    hell, you can even use the latter for truing your wheel. (dont do that, trust me)

  66. #66
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  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by pnj
    learn how to patch. it's quicker and works as well as a new tube.
    You can even use old tubes for patch pieces...
    Ummm.... Patching quicker than putting in a new tube? Please, show me the way.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by A Grove
    Ummm.... Patching quicker than putting in a new tube? Please, show me the way.

    I think he's counting the time to go buy a tube.

  69. #69
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    Is it quicker to buy a patch kit rather than a tube?

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    Ever try to change a tube with one hand??? .............My old shop and most of the shops I have ever been too have them both pretty close to each other. I think it may actually be a few seconds faster to buy the patch kit.... Regardless, you have to specify what size tube, whether or not you want light or heavy duty. But with a patch kit, all you need to say is "Yo lbs, I need a patch kit."...

    Hmm..... tubes should be within 5 feet from the register so you can just grab one and go. Patch kits should be kept further away to avoid the whole "why do you guys charge the same to patch a tube as you do for a brand new tube?" Whatever....
    Last edited by JGill; 03-05-2009 at 10:01 PM.

  71. #71
    AKA; Jimmy Tango
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    Skooby,...you're a moron. It amazes me that someone is this stupid. You went online to cry the blues to world about a fawking flat. You should have went online to research a "fix" since you seem to be quite inept. Oh, and you got a chip, this is URBAN FORUM, GET USED TO SCRATCHES AND CHIPS, or, go back to your pokemon, happy meals, and video games!!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by A Grove
    I disagree... ^^
    I run my tires at around 65-70 and they're rated for 50. Hell, MOST people I know who actually RIDE their bikes on the pavement (and by pavement I mean "street" riding, not just cruising) run high pressures too..

    serious?

    throwing tricks down 12 sets with that kinda pressure would kill my wrists. but then again im rigid,you may not be.

  73. #73
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    uncalled for

    some of you guys are cool but some of you mother ****ers need a beatdown with the same shovels you use to build your jumps

  74. #74
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  75. #75
    Yo!
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    Don't listen to GOP skoobey...

    He's 30 yrs old razzing kids on a bicycle forum.

  76. #76
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    there's always a few bad apples

  77. #77
    I Have Cookies
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    WOW this is about as nasty as I've seen it on these forums........I've some get so nasty They got the law involved but really......really.......that post really belongs in beginners corner so you wont get hammered soo hard for being a Noob...... Cheers Ride that P1 and have fun!
    The most important thing is what God thinks about it. He will have the final say.” – Joshua Stinebrink

    ____
    Kimo

  78. #78
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    Yes it does very much belong in the beginners corner...but then again, there is no harm in asking questions regardless of how idiotic or recluse from thinking they may be.

    Skoob...dont let the twats get to you buddy, you just keep on asking those kinds of questions as much s you feel you need to...of course I am going laugh a bit, nope...actually, I am going to laugh my balls off but hey, im not going to slam you for you trying to understand or get some simpleton info. But do try to do a bit of searching before phrasing your Qs in the more Gen Pop areas of the site. Try the beginners corner because as one poster has already stated, you will not get slammed as much and if you do...just put them on your ignore list so you do not have to read any vacuous tripe written by some lego chewing phucktard/s!

  79. #79
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    thanks bro, the **** that spews out of thier pieholes doesn't deter me at all

  80. #80
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    from now on im gonna actually use the search and ask the simple stuff in the noob forum

  81. #81
    pnj
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    Quote Originally Posted by A Grove
    Ummm.... Patching quicker than putting in a new tube? Please, show me the way.
    sorry, I didn't see this until now.

    Patching requires less ... something.. you don't have to remove the wheel from the bike. Simply pull one side of the tire off the rim, find hole by pumping tube slightly, scratch around area of hole, put glue on, put patch on, shove tube back into tire, put tire on, pump up. ride.

    Ok, so that is a bunch of work. but the idea is that with patching you don't have to take the wheel off, if you know what you are doing. I'd say you don't need tools but with quick release hubs, I guess you don't need tools either.

    eh. i'm an idiot..

  82. #82
    Takw/agranofsalt
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    Quote Originally Posted by A Grove
    Is it quicker to buy a patch kit rather than a tube?
    Yes!

    At my local Performance shop the patch kits are always right by the register on the counter...the tubes are all the way in the back of the shop!

  83. #83
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    google often has answers aswell
    i ride my bi*ch hard

  84. #84
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    MMwwaahaa ha ha ha ha...he he he... ...THANKS mate, you made me just spit coffee all over my screen god damn it. Your response was the BEST on here so far, EXCELLENT response, he he he. Me likey



    Quote Originally Posted by pnj
    sorry, I didn't see this until now.

    Patching requires less ... something.. you don't have to remove the wheel from the bike. Simply pull one side of the tire off the rim, find hole by pumping tube slightly, scratch around area of hole, put glue on, put patch on, shove tube back into tire, put tire on, pump up. ride.

    Ok, so that is a bunch of work. but the idea is that with patching you don't have to take the wheel off, if you know what you are doing. I'd say you don't need tools but with quick release hubs, I guess you don't need tools either.

    eh. i'm an idiot..

  85. #85
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    I'm the type of guy that likes to use lmgtfy.

    http://lmgtfy.com/?q=google

  86. #86
    ~Disc~Golf~
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    Honestly... ahh I give up

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