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  1. #1
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    What BMX is right for me?

    So I used to ride the smaller (I think 20") BMX bikes for years when I was a kid about 10-15 years ago. I used to be into it, but unfortunately have forgotten everything there is to know about it. I want to get another BMX bike primarily for riding around my neighborhood and just going out and playing around. Honestly Trail riding is my main aspiration but I'm not trying to ride my carbon fiber mtn bike to 7-eleven

    I'm 6'2 and weigh 180, I'm guessing I wanna look at something like a cruiser/24" bike? I found a robinson 24" on craigslist that looks pretty nice for only $250 with


    Profile Race 3 Piece Crack
    GT Sealed Bottom Bracket
    Elf Aluminum Race Bars
    Odyssey V-Brake
    GT Pro Platform Petals

    it looks a lil old and used but I"m not really tripping too much on that. So is this something I would want to consider? Fill me in!

    O yeah also how much do these things typically weigh?
    TIA!

  2. #2
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    At 6' 2" you want to be looking for a long top tube, like 21"+. Macneil makes a 22" TT frame for taller guys and there are some 24" cruisers with 22" TT's also. However that Robinson is probably a 21 or shorter, used to race one back a decade or so ago.
    Something to consider also is a 20"(wheel) is going to handle ALOT faster than a 24 or 26" but once you are used to them it's hard going to a big wheel for skateparks and BMX tracks. Although now that I am a fat old guy I REALLY like my DMR DJ now that it's sorted into my old man BMX mode

    Oh, weight wise anywhere from 20lbs for a aluminum race bike to 40 for a hefty duty freestyle bike. My DMR 26" DJ is SS with a RS Tora and is low 30's.
    Bikes=Sanity

  3. #3
    Hip
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    Fit makes a nice 24", Its around $500. Haro has one arounf $350. Top Tube length is what is important.

  4. #4
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    That Robinson is a good buy. It has top components (from the early/mid 90's). If you can get him to sell for 200 or 220, then take it. One thing... check if it is a 1" head tube or 1 1/8 head tube. BMX switched to 1 1/8 in the mid 90's. You can still get good headsets and replacement forks for 1" but it's a little more of a pain.

    Can you be more specific about what you want to do with the bike. Do you want to learn any flatland tricks or learn 180 bunnyhops etc. ? If you're thinking tricks, then a bmx race cruiser like the Robinson is not the way to go.

    There are two kinds of bmx cruisers--those set up for racing and those that are more street/jumping oriented. The We The People Avenue 24" or DK General Lee 24" are cruisers that are set up for more abuse. The WTP is the cooler bike.

    Top tube length is not directly comparable between 20" and 24" bikes. For instance your average bmx cruiser has a 21.5"tt (actual, measured from center of head tube to center of seat tube) whereas that would be considered a XXL 20".

    similar "which bmx should i buy" type of thread here:
    http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=214274

  5. #5
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    wow great info, thanks guys.

    As far as what I want to do with the bike I just wanna ride around town on it maybe hitting jumps here and there, no flatland tricks. Just something light and fast that I can also hit small jjumps on(and when I mean small I mean small, like curbs lips from driveways etc)

    Oh and I"m definitely looking for something lightweight and simple.

    EDIT: so I'm a bit confused on TT length, if I knowI'm just gonna stick to a 24" what do I want to look for?
    Last edited by Yody; 02-22-2009 at 08:50 AM.

  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Go try it out and if it fits, SNAG it up! That's one of the later Robinsons, close to the last of them iirc. Nice bike, 'specially if you can talk 'em down to the $200 range
    As for TT length find something 21.5-22" range. measure from the center of the seat tube to the center of the head tube going along the top tube. Keep in mind a shorter TT with a steeper head angle equals toe overlap with the front wheel. I'd still say something with a 22" TT will be your best fit.
    Bikes=Sanity

  8. #8
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    yeah you should definitely buy that bike. it's pretty classic. aluminum frame will be light and stiff. good components. classic ELF bars you could probably sell to some old cruiser racer for some $$.

    way better than any complete cruiser you would get in the 200-300 range. just make sure the wheels roll straight and there are no cracks in the frame and the forks aren't bent.

    even if the frame is a tad short in the front end, you can run a longer stem. not a big deal though, i've seen plenty of tall dudes right short-ish cruisers anyway, esp. if you're cruising and not racing it.

    if you built up a cruiser with parts, you'd be spending $180 just on the Profile cranks and bottom bracket. so the bike is a good deal.
    it would have easily been a 700 or 800 bike originally.

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