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  1. #1
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    Steelhead frame prep

    So I just got my new steelhead frame ('05) and since I've never put together a bike before I'm a bit stumped on some things. Do I need to get the headtube faced? Bottom bracket? Also the frame has adjustable dropouts...so is there any trick to getting the disc to line up perfectly with the caliper, or just go by how it looks? Thanks a lot for any help, I'm really wanting to ride this already.

    Would you guys recommend zinn and the art of mountain bike maintenence, or the park tool book?

  2. #2
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    And WHERE can I find a 30.0mm seatpost clamp? This is just getting aggravating, I found a couple on beyondbikes but they are like 25 dollars. While I'm at it does anyone know where I can get a derailleur hanger?

  3. #3
    j77
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    When I built up my steelhead (04 model) I did not face the BB or HT and everything went together fine. Been beating on it ever since with no problems.

    Mine is set up single speed with a V-brake on the rear, but I do use chain tensioners to keep the wheel straight in the drops. They would probably also help you keep your disk dialed in. But if youre running a multi-speed setup, you should have the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts anyhow and adjust the caliper accordingly. As for the 30mm clamp, you can use a BMX clamp or Azonic has a QR one on their website that is 29.8mm which will work.

    The deraileur hanger should have come with your frame. Mine was in a little plastic bag along with the screws and it was taped to the inside of the box not actually on the frame! Took a bit of looking around in the packing materials to find it. If its not there just contact Azonic thru their website, they should hook you up.


    ps - if your aggravated now I would also suggest that you also stay very far away from beyond bikes.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by j77
    When I built up my steelhead (04 model) I did not face the BB or HT and everything went together fine. Been beating on it ever since with no problems.

    Mine is set up single speed with a V-brake on the rear, but I do use chain tensioners to keep the wheel straight in the drops. They would probably also help you keep your disk dialed in. But if youre running a multi-speed setup, you should have the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts anyhow and adjust the caliper accordingly. As for the 30mm clamp, you can use a BMX clamp or Azonic has a QR one on their website that is 29.8mm which will work.

    The deraileur hanger should have come with your frame. Mine was in a little plastic bag along with the screws and it was taped to the inside of the box not actually on the frame! Took a bit of looking around in the packing materials to find it. If its not there just contact Azonic thru their website, they should hook you up.


    ps - if your aggravated now I would also suggest that you also stay very far away from beyond bikes.

    I bought a new frame off ebay and the derailleur hanger was bent a bit. It also seems to have a pretty crappy fit but maybe that's just how it's made. I can straighten it but might get a new one just in case. As far as beyondbikes...yeah I already spent a bunch of money there and am waiting for it to get here. Finally shipped after a week and a half. The headset I'm using is an FSA pig dh pro if it makes any difference.

  5. #5
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    You only need to face the HT when you use a very deep cup headset, think Chris King Steelset.

  6. #6
    j77
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    snaky69, I think youre refering to reaming the headtube for a deep cup, which ensures a consistent interior diameter of the head tube.

    Facing the headtube ensures that the top and bottom faces are perfectly parallel, and thus the cups are also parallel when pressed in. This ~should~ be done on all frames that are not factory faced after painting.

    spyguy, you should be okay as long as you use a proper headset press and fully seat the cups. If there is any binding once your fork is installed and headset is torqued to spec then you will need to have it removed, faced and re-seated. As for the bent deraileur, the quality control on the steelhead frames is hit-or-miss. Make sure that the drop-outs and rear end are also straight and aligned before you bend your hanger. Some frames had the ends of the dropout squshed together making it difficult to slide in the axle or install the hanger in its recess, others had rear triangles out of alignment so that when the wheel was slid to the front of the drops it would rub on the chain/seat stays.

    Its frustrating for new frames to be clapped-out right out of the box but I guess you take a chance with a $150 frame. Maybe I just got lucky!
    Last edited by j77; 09-19-2006 at 03:39 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by j77
    snaky69, I think youre refering to reaming the headtube for a deep cup, which ensures a consistent interior diameter of the head tube.

    Facing the headtube ensures that the top and bottom faces are perfectly parallel, and thus the cups are also parallel when pressed in. This ~should~ be done on all frames that are not factory faced after painting.

    spyguy, you should be okay as long as you use a proper headset press and fully seat the cups. If there is any binding once your fork is installed and headset is torqued to spec then you will need to have it removed, faced and re-seated. As for the bent deraileur, the quality control on the steelhead frames is hit-or-miss. Make sure that the drop-outs and rear end are also straight and aligned before you bend your hanger. Some frames had the ends of the dropout squshed together making it difficult to slide in the axle or install the hanger in its recess, others had rear triangles out of alignment so that when the wheel was slid to the front of the drops it would rub on the chain/seat stays.

    Its frustrating for new frames to be clapped-out right out of the box but I guess you take a chance with a $150 frame. Maybe I just got lucky!

    Thanks for the advice. How do I make sure the dropouts are straight? Just stick the wheel in? The hanger is bent at the part where it attaches to the frame. The part that the derailleur actually mounts to is straight, it's that U-bend that isn't straight. The dropout on the right side however is a little bent, the tab on the bottom inside the actual dropout is bent down a little, so the top and bottom faces on the inside of the dropout aren't parallel, but I'm assuming a rubber mallet will do the trick.

    As for the headtube, what I was referring to but didn't know it was actually the reaming, but facing sounds like a good idea. I'm just going to measure the top/bottom faces of the headtube to see if it's more or less parallel, and then measure the headset cups and inside of the headtube to check that it will fit without damaging the headtube. I assume that's all I need and I'm good to go? Lots of questions I know, but I've spent way too much time/money on this to screw it up. Thanks!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by j77
    snaky69, I think youre refering to reaming the headtube for a deep cup, which ensures a consistent interior diameter of the head tube.

    Facing the headtube ensures that the top and bottom faces are perfectly parallel, and thus the cups are also parallel when pressed in. This ~should~ be done on all frames that are not factory faced after painting.

    spyguy, you should be okay as long as you use a proper headset press and fully seat the cups. If there is any binding once your fork is installed and headset is torqued to spec then you will need to have it removed, faced and re-seated. As for the bent deraileur, the quality control on the steelhead frames is hit-or-miss. Make sure that the drop-outs and rear end are also straight and aligned before you bend your hanger. Some frames had the ends of the dropout squshed together making it difficult to slide in the axle or install the hanger in its recess, others had rear triangles out of alignment so that when the wheel was slid to the front of the drops it would rub on the chain/seat stays.

    Its frustrating for new frames to be clapped-out right out of the box but I guess you take a chance with a $150 frame. Maybe I just got lucky!
    English not being my first language I have mixed up the words again. I'm sorry about this if I confused anyone.

  9. #9
    j77
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    Sticking the wheel all the way in is about the only way to eyeball the rear end without any fancy frame jigs. The bent rear end that I saw was WAY out of alignment and easily visible with a wheel in.

    I have a FSA Pig headset (loose ball version) on mine and it went in with minimal effort. Not sure if your model has deeper cups or if its even an issue with that frame. I just know that I looked in my headtube before pressing and didnt see anything that looked problematic. Most frames have the head tube faces so close to parallel that facing is really not an issue, but again I dont want to assume anything.

    for bending back the lower portion of the dropout, its probably better to protect the dropout with a short section of rubber hose, or tape or whatever and bend the dropout slowly back into place using the closed end of a large cresent wrench like a big lever. Banging on it with a mallet will make it difficult to control the amount of bending.

    Take your time, enjoy the build process, buy the tools you need cause you'll use them again and again. . . . and post up pix when its done

  10. #10
    j77
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaky69
    English not being my first language I have mixed up the words again. I'm sorry about this if I confused anyone.
    No worries! English is my first language and I still F-it up all the time

  11. #11
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    oh man, sovietspyguy, it just sounds to me like you could've bought a straight up lemon frame! not that it can't be fixed, but already bent dropout slots are a bad sign. and with all of these bent parts, the more you try to bend them back the weaker they get, especially if your der. hanger is a cheap aluminum piece.
    I'm not sure if the 05' is different, but I'm pretty sure you can't properly run disc brakes with the axle all the way at the front of the drops, it won't line up correctly. Are you running this as an SS or with gears?
    Bike building is definitely a process that takes some fine tuning and shimmy-jimmyin', but just hope your rear triangle is NOT out of alignment, and don't get too frustrated, you will probably get addicted to the process, and want to just keep building!
    Schralp it Heavy.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSATORI
    oh man, sovietspyguy, it just sounds to me like you could've bought a straight up lemon frame! not that it can't be fixed, but already bent dropout slots are a bad sign. and with all of these bent parts, the more you try to bend them back the weaker they get, especially if your der. hanger is a cheap aluminum piece.
    I'm not sure if the 05' is different, but I'm pretty sure you can't properly run disc brakes with the axle all the way at the front of the drops, it won't line up correctly. Are you running this as an SS or with gears?
    Bike building is definitely a process that takes some fine tuning and shimmy-jimmyin', but just hope your rear triangle is NOT out of alignment, and don't get too frustrated, you will probably get addicted to the process, and want to just keep building!

    Maybe I make it sound worse than it is...the bend in the dropout is barely perceptible, but it's there. I'm planning on running it with gears, and it damn well better work that way because I've already spent a disgusting amount of money on this build, way more than I intended, I don't want to have to buy new parts and not be able to use mine. My goal now is just to get it together so I can ride it, if something breaks eventually that's fine, but my bank account needs to recover. Anyways I don't think it's a huge problem but we shall see when I get the wheels in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sovietspyguy
    Maybe I make it sound worse than it is...the bend in the dropout is barely perceptible, but it's there. I'm planning on running it with gears, and it damn well better work that way because I've already spent a disgusting amount of money on this build, way more than I intended, I don't want to have to buy new parts and not be able to use mine. My goal now is just to get it together so I can ride it, if something breaks eventually that's fine, but my bank account needs to recover. Anyways I don't think it's a huge problem but we shall see when I get the wheels in.

    I just checked with a wheel from another bike, everything looks like it's lined up perfectly. The wheel wasn't a disc wheel, but I installed the caliper and held the rotor over where it would be mounted and it seemed to line up just fine. That's with the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts. So I think everything is good, hooray!

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