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  1. #1
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    Some constructive criticism please..wanna go urban/park..

    OK...I've been trying to huck around lately..getting better and better everyday..yes I go out everyday after work..kinda like my good old days after school with my 20" BMX...But anyway...I got this bike that I'm slowly trying to build-up/customize for my sole intended purpose..to huck around the streets and park...I got the bike for a good deal, BUT I've noticed that it's not exactly set-up for what I want to do (see above)..Here are my list of parts..let me know what you think. Let me know what I need to change...what are the weak points...what do I need to keep in mind...what's good/bad...and keep the subject line in mind.."constructive criticism." Thanks....
    -'04 Haro Escape 8.* I know heavy, but I'm not a smooth rider..hopefully it'll withstand
    -Avid BB7
    -Rear AlexRims DM18 - I think I slightly bent these. Are they known to be weak rims? There's a no-name hub on there and 9spd cogs(was told they were road cogs)
    -Rear XT deraileur - LX shifter
    -Front SunRims Rhyno Lite (6000 series) w/ Ringle hub
    -FSA V-Drive Mega Exo cranks
    -Kona Project 2 fork
    -Easton EA70 Bars
    -Shimano 38T chain ring w/ E13 bash guard

    OK What I'm looking to possibly do is just go SS and just forego the hassle of the deraileur and the messiness of the cogs...I like things simple...I know it's been beaten to death, but can someone suggest a rear SS cog for me that would match my 38T ring? I'm thinking 16T or 18T.

    Also, like I said...I'm not smooth at all...what do y'all think about the rims? Esp. the rear one? I think I have to get it trued again..but if it's just a weak rim, I might as well just get a better one w/ the SS cog on there....

    I do like the geometry of the frame...Well I haven't ridden too many more...but I guess I'm "used to" this frame now AND money IS a factor too....So my biggest issues is the rear rim....and what SS cog to run in the rear? ANY and all suggestions would be awesome....I have done a search on here, BUT there's just so many differeing opinions and answers and info. my head is spinning!!!! Thanks again..you guys ROCK!!!

  2. #2
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    Single speed will make you lose 2 lbs, which is always nice. Most people start with a 2:1 ratio on a single speeder, and work from there. It depends on how many hills there are in your city and how hard you do want to pedal. I'd go either 38/19 or 38/18. 38/16 would be if your area is very flat or if you like lots of speed but slow acceleration. The dm-18 is a decent rim, but you have to take into account that the more you true it(IE: Bend it back through spoke tension) the weaker it'll get. A hand laced Sun double track might be where it's at for you if you bend a lot of rims, sure, it's heavy, but they are pretty bomb proof when they are well built.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaky69
    Single speed will make you lose 2 lbs, which is always nice. Most people start with a 2:1 ratio on a single speeder, and work from there. It depends on how many hills there are in your city and how hard you do want to pedal. I'd go either 38/19 or 38/18. 38/16 would be if your area is very flat or if you like lots of speed but slow acceleration. The dm-18 is a decent rim, but you have to take into account that the more you true it(IE: Bend it back through spoke tension) the weaker it'll get. A hand laced Sun double track might be where it's at for you if you bend a lot of rims, sure, it's heavy, but they are pretty bomb proof when they are well built.
    Hey thanks for the info....Losing the weight is one of the biggest reasons for me to go ss...the other is that I'm tired of the sloppiness of the rear deraileur lately...such a pain!!! And I've just noticed I have a 9-spd in the rear BUT the deraileur/shifter doesn't go to all the gears!!!! WTF?!?! I gues sI didn't get too great of a deal huh? Anyway, I was thinking it was a 2:1 ratio, but wasn't sure...And I'm in a pretty flat area for the most part...I can ride like 30min and hit some pretty step mountains, but I try to avoid them...I like to stick to the parks and streets in NYC...Which is flat flat flat... I'll take a look at ur rim suggestion...thanks again....

  4. #4
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    Anytime, people around here are pretty helpful.

  5. #5
    Meh.
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    Sounds like your bike was never set up right. Bring it to a shop and pay for a tuneup.

  6. #6
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    Or learn how to adjust your shifting and avoid getting overcharged like most shops these days seem to do.

    I'd go SS with a smaller ring. I'd go 32-14 for flat stuff.

  7. #7
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    Yeah I really should learn to do certain things...esp ones that don't need special tools to do...Adjusting the rear deraileur looks easy enough...It's nice to have rear gears, but I'd like to lose the weight and I really hate when the deraileur whacks my frame eveytime I land off something....and from being a BMX guy it's just looks too messy back there...too much going on...I'm a simple guy...Also I really don't change gears that often...

    Can someone point me in the direction of a GOOD set of SS conversion instructions(that does not sound right)? I know what I have to do, BUT not sure what I have to take into consideration. Like are all SS conversion kits like the Gusset 1'er Single Speed Conversion Kit universal to most hubs? I have not a clue what hub I have in the rea...there's no name on it but it's laced to a AlexRim DM18....OK I'm gonna go searching for some instructions....

  8. #8
    Crusty cyclist
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    all the single speed spacer kits I've seen require you to run a 16 or higher cog. I'd go to a dedicated singlespeed hub

  9. #9
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    Yeah I'm looking to run one of the 4 cogs; 16T-19T...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by americanethics
    all the single speed spacer kits I've seen require you to run a 16 or higher cog. I'd go to a dedicated singlespeed hub
    This is not true, I have a 14t and can go down to 11t on my ordinary formula hub with a dmr kit.

  11. #11
    Portland, OR
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    well, just as far as the rear rim is concerned. they actually are very weak. I used to ride them front and rear on my old bike. I bent the front so badly that it wouldent turn anymore in the fork, and that was without a wheel. the rear held up okay, ended up in my LBS probably 15 times. eventually I got extremly tired of trying to get the wheel to work, and I bought a Shimano Deore/Rhynolite wheelset off jensonusa.com for like $89.99 or something like that. they're totally sick. havent been in the shop yet and they've got about 3 seasons of riding on them.

    just saying, that it might just make sence to get a brand new wheelset VS paying a stupid high price to get it trued every once in a while.

    still running strong
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    [SIZE="4"]Ibex bikes[/SIZE]

    2007 Ibex Trophy SS
    2006 Jamis Komodo 3.0
    2006 Ibex Zone FR-1
    2004 Special-Ed P.2 A.1

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by todd_freeride
    well, just as far as the rear rim is concerned. they actually are very weak. I used to ride them front and rear on my old bike. I bent the front so badly that it wouldent turn anymore in the fork, and that was without a wheel. the rear held up okay, ended up in my LBS probably 15 times. eventually I got extremly tired of trying to get the wheel to work, and I bought a Shimano Deore/Rhynolite wheelset off jensonusa.com for like $89.99 or something like that. they're totally sick. havent been in the shop yet and they've got about 3 seasons of riding on them.

    just saying, that it might just make sence to get a brand new wheelset VS paying a stupid high price to get it trued every once in a while.

    still running strong

    $90...I can deal with that if it saves me the hassle of going to the LBS often...And since I'm thinking of going SS might as well build it on a new, stronger/better wheel set than the old crappy one...I'll can just leave the rear cassette on the old wheel if I wanna flip flop back and forth from SS to 1:9...Everything seems to make sense now, I see the light......Hahahaha!!!!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaky69
    This is not true, I have a 14t and can go down to 11t on my ordinary formula hub with a dmr kit.
    I'm pretty positive, but I don't think you can run 11t cog as an SS on a 9spd cassette body... your chain won't fully engage the teeth and will rub the spacers... or did DMR somehow make a kit to work?? never seen it... as far as I last knew, 12t even rubs on some chain/spacer combos, esp. if using a big bmx chain.


    Styme001, so you have a 38t chainring.... sort of big for our style of use (might work on an SS or fixie road bike but you don't really anything that big on your street/urban bike). But, that said, micro-drive is not a requirement, and the 38t will work fine. If I were you, I'd look at something like a 32:15 set-up, or go with a ratio like Snaky69 mentioned. last I knew, NYC didn't have much climbing, so that might work out pretty good, and the parts would be relatively easy to source and for cheap as well.
    Your hub (or any you might buy, like the one Todd_freeride posted) will have a standard 8/9 speed shimano compatible cassette body. To convert this, you just use a handful of correct size spacers and a lock-ring, then place the single sprocket (possibly 16t in your case) near the middle of the cassette body so it lines up straight with the front chainring. You don't want it crooked or your chain will pop off constantly. Break a chain and reconnect it so you it is tight and straight, no slack. (you will probably need a tensioner). Pretty basic and straight forward....
    Schralp it Heavy.

  14. #14
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    I'm currently running 26:14 but would like to try 26:13 or 28:14, depending on which option allows me to run my drop outs as short as possible.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaky69
    I'm currently running 26:14 but would like to try 26:13 or 28:14, depending on which option allows me to run my drop outs as short as possible.

    thread hijack, sorry.....

    26:14, wow.... don't you find yourself spinning out a lot?

    mine is around the same as my bmx was at like 55, I'm now at 56 (28/12 X 24=56 somewhat tall but I can keep up with slow traffic), but looking to go with 25/11 X 24= 54.5 when the new tree lite comes out. you're at 26/14 X 26= 48.2 hey, if it fits your style, you can't argue with that and I've got no prob with differences in set-up, but it's spinnin' in my opinion. what are you gonna run the SA at? (get some Wombolts, a 25t Vermont sprocket and 12t cog, that is my suggestion for hotness, haha )
    Schralp it Heavy.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSATORI
    thread hijack, sorry.....

    26:14, wow.... don't you find yourself spinning out a lot?

    mine is around the same as my bmx was at like 55, I'm now at 56 (28/12 X 24=56 somewhat tall but I can keep up with slow traffic), but looking to go with 25/11 X 24= 54.5 when the new tree lite comes out. you're at 26/14 X 26= 48.2 hey, if it fits your style, you can't argue with that and I've got no prob with differences in set-up, but it's spinnin' in my opinion. what are you gonna run the SA at? (get some Wombolts, a 25t Vermont sprocket and 12t cog, that is my suggestion for hotness, haha )
    My area is full of hills and the 26:14 is good for that. I feel my speed tops out way too fast though, so I might drop a tooth or two back there and walk the hills. I'm planning on getting a rear SS hub and running it someting like 26:13, or maybe even 26:12. With a shadow conspiracy interloc V2 of course

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