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  1. #1
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    rear derailleurs

    I swear to God mine gets knocked out of alignment every single ride. It sucks to be hauling ass into something, about to jump a gap, and then my drivetrain ghost-shifts. Not exactly good for the ol' confidence.

    I know, I know, I should be running SS, but I have vertical dropouts, and I like being able to change up my gears for more speed for a run in, etc.

    So, my question to you all is, for those of you running gears, what are you using in the back? I've just got the stock drivetrain that came with my Scrap (I think it's Alivio). I have spare LX and XT rear derailleurs I can throw on there that's left over in the Box o' Spare Parts-or should I be looking at something totally different? I'm a big dude, and I know I land on stuff hard, but should I really be having to readjust this stuff every time I ride?

    Any advice would be much appreciated.

  2. #2
    Jesus Freak
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    Sram

    My XO has only been adjusted once in 11 months and that's when I put it on. Other friends of mine run X9 with the same reliable results.

    Get an X7 or X9 der and shifter. You be glad you did.

    Other than that, the biggest cause of ghost shifting I've seen comes from the hanger getting bent.
    Make sure it's straight first.

  3. #3
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    right on, I like the fact that I can get those in short-cage as well. I only need the rear shifter-I pulled my front derailleur and shifter off (as well as the granny ring on my crankset) so it shouldn't be too expensive.

  4. #4
    Err
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    X9, run rear only. worlds better than shimano. worlds.

  5. #5
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    I just order a Shimano Saint Short Cage rear Derailer from beyondbikes.com for only $50! I've yet to see how it works out but I hope its awesome. They might still have the same deal so you could get for $65 off.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by grunt2960
    I just order a Shimano Saint Short Cage rear Derailer from beyondbikes.com for only $50! I've yet to see how it works out but I hope its awesome. They might still have the same deal so you could get for $65 off.
    Word, let me know how it works. I am thinking very seriously about the X7 or X9 setup...do they just seem to take abuse better? Something that is reliable, but not ridiculous to replace (**** happens riding street, you know this) is what I want.

  7. #7
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    well, you need a Saint compatible rear hub in order to mount and use the Saint rear derailleur properly...

    I use an old XT short cage regular-rise... trusty, cheap, small, and best of all, spray painted black, haha...
    new X.9 looks killer though, and new X.7 is same as the old X.9, so quite the bargain...


    but that said, if you keep bashing your derailleur repeatedly, none will hold up indefinetly, no matter the brand... I'm surprised you haven't been breaking or tweaking derailleur hangers actually. if that happens you can get a guard for it, but I still recommend SS over anything for street and dj...
    Schralp it Heavy.

  8. #8
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    I have certainly tweaked some derailleur hangers...although my problem just seems to be the adjustments don't seem to stay dialed for very long once i start jumping. I'm a big dude, but I feel like I land at least somewhat smooth. There's still a lot of force being taken by the bike, however, as I'm sure you could have guessed.

    The single speed thing keeps coming up again and again in my mind...how much would it cost me to convert? Keep in mind that I'd have to get a chain tensioner (vertical dropouts) unless somehow I got REALLY lucky with a gear combination. I ride a 17" Kona Scrap frame...anybody have any info on that?

    God that would hurt to ride up everything in a high gear...but it would turn me into a beast pretty damn quick too, I think. And then I could not worry about dropping my chain or ghost shifts. Decisions, decisions...

  9. #9
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    price of SS conversion has been covered plenty of times on here before...

    but, to get it done right, fairly cheaply, but still where you should be able to set it and forget it, I would estimate to be around $50-60+.... so hey, whattya' know, probably about the same price as that new derrailleur!
    chain tensioner would be the biggest cost probably, and you want a fixed one that attaches to the axle as well as the der. hanger, such as the highly regarded Rennen (more expensive) or the DMR... not a surly, or nashbar, or any of those spring-loaded chain catapults...
    then you would need a cog for the back with the proper amount of teeth, and some spacers to take up the rest of the empty width of your cassette body on the hub.
    Then, I would highly recommend a Chainring for the front that has no ramps or pins, such as a Blackspire, or Salsa SS, etc.
    Then, an SS chain, BMX is nice, but don't get a ridiculously wide one, maybe a KMC Pintle half-link might help you avoid the chain tensioner, but it's still a gamble with vert. drops... would work either way though.
    and there you go, you'd have a bombproof, quiet set-up, and with the proper gear ratio, easy enough to tackle some climbs, but hopefully high enough to get decent speed for hitting stuff.
    good luck.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  10. #10
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    Thanks a lot for the info/recommendations. I sent a message to the Kona tech dept. to see if they know anything about certain gear combinations etc. working for that frame. I would like to avoid using a chain tensioner if at all possible-but then again I probably should have thought of that before buying a bike with vertical dropouts.

    I may just have to experiment a little bit and find out what will work and what won't. The more I think about it though, I think SS may be what I really want to do. The idea of just pedaling without worrying what gear I'm in sounds pretty nice, actually...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GorillaTactics
    Thanks a lot for the info/recommendations. I sent a message to the Kona tech dept. to see if they know anything about certain gear combinations etc. working for that frame. I would like to avoid using a chain tensioner if at all possible-but then again I probably should have thought of that before buying a bike with vertical dropouts.

    I may just have to experiment a little bit and find out what will work and what won't. The more I think about it though, I think SS may be what I really want to do. The idea of just pedaling without worrying what gear I'm in sounds pretty nice, actually...

    yeah, SS really is nice in most situations...

    but, the problem with the "magic gear ratio" is that it's only good when your chain is new, or at least the condition it's in when you line it all up at that moment, but once it stretches over time and use, then you've got slack to worry about or it will keep hopping off.

    You can try to use what is called a "Ghost" or "Phantom" gear, that floats in the middle of the chain between the front ring, and closest to the rear cog. It is ideally just larger than the rear cog, so it just sits between the upper and lower part of the chain and takes up the slack. do you see what I'm saying? It's not attached to anything at all, just floating, riding in the chain just in front of the rear cog. But the problem with this, is it only works if the ghost gear can clear your chainstay without hitting or rubbing it...
    but if you get that to work, it is a smooth and cheap way to run SS without a tensioner.

    I'm not sure, but I don't think you'll get any magic numbers from Kona... it could happen though... but I wouldn't get my hopes up.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  12. #12
    Retread soul rider
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    I use an Ultegra rear der. and a roadie cassette so I can change gears in single tooth increments between 12T-16T and it is nice to be able to dial in a gear ratio for whichever DJs I'm at. But, mostly I'm wearing out the 32x16T combo with a 2.3 x 26 rear tire... so I may go SS some day.

  13. #13
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    so in a couple of reviews I've researched for that KMC Pintle chain, it seems to 'prevent' stretch because of its interlocking design. Of course I am a bit skeptical about that claim (unless anybody has info about it to the contrary) , but since it's a half link, would taking out just half a link to take up slack that forms eventually be a possibility? Or are we talking about too small of an amount of stretch to take out another link? I imagine a phenomenon like chain stretch is decidedly non-precision.

    I realize these questions probably make me sound like a retard, but I've never really dealt with anything SS before. More than anything, I guess the thing to do would be to take it down to the LBS and see what we can make happen.

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