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  1. #1
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    Please help me decide

    Ok, after much thought and consideration about what kind of riding I REALLY do and will do most of, I came to the conclusion that it's about 85% urban stuff, 5% just general riding around town, and 10% trails. Give or take a little bit. I would like to get a bike built for 24" wheels, front suspension, and allow for front and rear brakes (doesn't have to be discs), and most importantly, I want steel! Anyways, I know that is a lot of criteria but my questions is do ya'll have any suggestions?

  2. #2
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    addictcyclesdotcom

  3. #3
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    I'd say check out Cannondale Chase frames, or the specialized p frames, I felt the same way about the way you ride, but I like to hit the trails more, I got a chase 2 and I love it, it does have 26'rs but it feels like a big bmx bike. If I had more money I think that I would've gotten the Brooklym Machine Works Park bike, that thing is so sweet. Check out http://www.thickbikes.com/ they have some pretty sweet 24's.

  4. #4
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    Tonic fab make some great frames. Check out an azonic steelhead, run it with gears and a nice chainguide up front and it'll be trail rideable. Maybe a nemesis project? P. Street?

    It really depends on your budget, if I were you I'd give azonic a try and hope you don't get a frame that's too out of alignement.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, I guess total I am going to spend about 1100 or so once it's all said and done. Is that amount sufficient for the bike I am looking for? I just want something I can throw around. I looked at Tonic and that looked like a nice option, but one) can I put rear brake? and two) will front and rear V's be sufficient for a lil bit of trail riding? I dont really ride in the rain so the wetness factor isn't there...thanks

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DP1112
    ...85% urban stuff, 5% just general riding around town, and 10% trails. Give or take a little bit. I would like to get a bike built for 24" wheels, front suspension, and allow for front and rear brakes (doesn't have to be discs), and most importantly, I want steel!...
    GT Ruckus UF 24
    -24" Urban Cr-Mo frame
    -Disk front, V rear brake

    It is rigid but you could add a fork for well under your price. It is singlespeed...looks like it would be alot of fun in the park cause you can grind with it. Hmmm, I think I just talked myself into one. LOL

    I second the Azonic Steelhead and also add the VooDoo Shango (horizontal drop outs), Atom Lab GI (24" or 26"), and the Revell 250R. I have ridden them all...the Shango is heavy untill you get used to it. It weighs about the same as an Imperial.

  7. #7
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    Kona's line of HT's could also fit your bill. The Stuff looks to be in your price range and it's a complete bike, it rides pretty well too.

  8. #8
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    Santa Cruz Chameleon.
    woooooooooo

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    Wow, thanks for the replies, that GT looks super sweet, but I haven't heard anything from them in quite some time, are they still a reputable bicycle maker? I'm not sure if they have gone wal-mart on me or anything. Is it just me, or does it seem that either you spend like 250 on a frame or 450? There's like no in between...anyway those are great suggestions..if you all have anymore please offer them up, I enjoy doing the research.

  10. #10
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    I'm kinda liking the fallguy...can I put a front brake on that bike, and also, front and rear V's would work on the trails right?

  11. #11
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    The Fall Guy is really nice.
    I'd get that.
    Maybe an STP would work too?

  12. #12
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    Keep in mind that the fall guy is frame only. So yes, you can put a front brake, and it can be disc or V, depending on fork choice.

    Had forgotten to mention the STP, but it is also a very nice bike.

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    yeah the fall guy looks great, but good point snake...it is definitely kinda pricey. I looked at the transition ToP, that one looks like a pretty good option, especially with the frame at 349. I'm kinda leaning towards that right now, ughhhhh I think I waver everyday...and we don't have a big urban scene where I live, so I can't go to the skatepark and try out somebody's bike, but the ToP looks good for now, at least I got a lil bit of time to decide

  14. #14
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    Keep in mind that building a bike from the ground up is usually more expensive than buying a complete one. If you're only getting into the sport then you're going to crash a lot, and you don't want to have to replace expensive components during your learning curve. I'd lean more towards a complete bike that fits your budget.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DP1112
    Yeah, I guess total I am going to spend about 1100 or so once it's all said and done. Is that amount sufficient for the bike I am looking for? I just want something I can throw around. I looked at Tonic and that looked like a nice option, but one) can I put rear brake? and two) will front and rear V's be sufficient for a lil bit of trail riding? I dont really ride in the rain so the wetness factor isn't there...thanks
    500-600 bucks will get you an almost new, absolutely killer bike off ebay. it's pretty suprising how many bikes seem to get sold because the owner broke something while downhilling. downhilling is singlehandedly providing an inexpensive way to purchase some great rides.

  16. #16
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    yeah, buying a complete bike would be ideal, but I didn't really see any complete bikes that really fit my bill. The GT is the closest thing but I'm not sure if I want to go the GT route. Do you think I could build the ToP up for about 1K? I don't need top end parts. I'm not a weight weenie and I'm not going to be doing 10' drops.

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    Do you have any spare parts at all? Or is it going to be from the ground up?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by DP1112
    yeah, buying a complete bike would be ideal, but I didn't really see any complete bikes that really fit my bill. The GT is the closest thing but I'm not sure if I want to go the GT route. Do you think I could build the ToP up for about 1K? I don't need top end parts. I'm not a weight weenie and I'm not going to be doing 10' drops.
    It could definitely be done assuming that you scour the internet for deals and do most of your own wrenching. you can find some amazing deals on new forks on ebay.I've seen new forks, two years old mainly, go for 60-70% off. You can also keep cost down if you stay from the bling. A huge part of the cost in a bike build is the labor. That alone will save you a vast amount of money. Simply doing your own brakes and installing other basic parts like pedals, chain, wheels, etc... will allow you to put more money into parts. One of the reasons I run SS is the pain in the ass factor for setting up the shifting. Yuck.

  19. #19
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    I can definitely scour the internet for deals, but I will have to use the LBS for some wrenching. I know I can do some, but there are some things I'd rather have them do. This bike will definitely not have gears, so hopefully that wil save me some expense that way. What kind of forks would I be looking at?

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by DP1112
    I can definitely scour the internet for deals, but I will have to use the LBS for some wrenching. I know I can do some, but there are some things I'd rather have them do. This bike will definitely not have gears, so hopefully that wil save me some expense that way. What kind of forks would I be looking at?
    Good stuff to hear. Running SS will definitely save you dough on parts and labor. Manitou Sherman and occasionally a Gold Label, Marzocchi Dirt Jumpers or Dirt Jam Pro, and the RockShox Pike can all be found for under 250 bucks. I've seen the Marzocchi stuff go for 150 before. Just stay away from the Manitou Stance and the Marzocchi Dirt Jamp Comp. I've ridden both and have no love for either. Buying the parts is half the fun of a new bike. Good luck.

  21. #21
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    What about a Banshee Scratch frame. Really small (get the 12" if you were liking the sounds of a FallGuy) and its like 350usd new for the frame. Disc or v's. 26 or 24. cromo. good warrenty. Banshee does sell a complete scratch in your price range but it comes with a rigid fork. But if you dont mind the rigid, its components are killer for that price imo. the wheels are super tough. Funn 24" 48h wheels. But if you dont like the build, still consider the frame.

  22. #22
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    Forgot to post pic of my scratch. here it is
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
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    Thanks for the advice pavement, the only forks that I knew about for urban were like 350+ so I was feeling kinda iffy about building a solid bike up for under 1K, now I feel a tad bit better though. Cummings, that is a freaking great looking bike. the scratch wasn't the first on my list, but it's rising. I'm just a lil skeptical about the geometry. Are those 24's you are riding with? Also, what size fork is that? The only way I'd run the bike (24's) so I'm not really concerned with how it handles with 26's or that it can.

  24. #24
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    Im riding with 26"s right now, but Im saving for 24"s. The bike can be run with either 26 or 24, but most people tend to run it with 24's. I just use 26's cuz that was on my old frame. The fork is a 100mm travel drop-off 4 fork. It came stock on my Kona Stuff. I will also be upgrading that eventually to a Gold LAbel. The geometry is REALLY good in my opinion. One reason I chose the scratch is because I had read so many reviews on how it helps your manuals. And it is true. I couldnt manual that good on my Kona Stuff but with the scratch, it really does feel easier. Im not saying its automatic manualing, u still have to have some skills, its just easier. The only thing I dislike about frame is I cant slam my rear wheel to the back of the seattube (short chainstays) because the tire rubs on part of the frame if I try. But that is because I have 26"s. The problem would not occur with 24"s. let me know if there is any other questions you have.

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