I picked up this frame a couple weeks ago on Ebay, some dude was blowing them out for $110 to $140 plus shipping. I have been wanting a singlespeed hardtail urban / dj / fr bike for a quite while; ready to learn some new skills, winter is coming fast (winter here = wet; less maintenance), sounded like a good deal, etc, so I picked one up. My cranks came in late this week just as the rain subsided, so I finished building last night and this afternoon was the shake down ride.
Just a few quick notes on this frame:
* Frame weight is approx 5 1/2 pounds size long. Butted steel. I have the exact weight written down in the shop.
* Chainstay length of 16.5" is measured center of bb to beginning of axle slot; actual minimum c to c chainstay is 16.5" + (0.5 * 10mm). That is some BS if you ask me. Is that how things are measured in the BMX world? With my 28:13 gearing the chainstay comes up to closer to 16.8" c to c.
* I had to spend a lot of time with a round file cleaning up the welds on the inside of the seat tube. Basically there was no way you could get a seatpost in there unless you used a smaller size due to the sloppy welds that went through the seat tube at the TT/ST/SS junction. It wasn't "that bad" but it only takes 0.1mm to make things difficult. Maybe this was a factory second (blowout price)? If I paid retail for this frame, I would have sent it back immediately. For the price, I am cool with it. I enjoy metal work anyways.
* Cheapest paint job I have ever seen. I have done better paint jobs myself with a rattle can. I really don't care. Just saying.
* It came with big stickers on the downtube, but I am not into big stickers on the downtube
* It is bigger than I expected; this is a size "long" with a 65mm stem... I have a 40mm stem on order. I'm 6'2, it isn't "too big", but I could ride something smaller. Fork needs to be cut down... but unfortunately it started creaking today so I am going to try and warrantee it.
It's been a while since I have been on a hardtail dj style bike. I have really gotten used to FS bikes over the years, so it feels like I am relearning how to bunnyhop. Manuals are much different too. Not easier or harder just different. I feel way more stable manualling a heavy / slack FS bike. Basically on my FS bike I just get into manual position and go go go, momentum and big pumps keep it going, and it doesn't go off course. On this bike, I have to be a lot more subtle with weight shifts due to the sharper angles and less weight. I'm used to much more exaggerated weight changes when manualling the FS bike. This bike is a razor blade and I am used to a chain saw.
Speaking of razor blades, holy sweet mother of dog... I initially set up my Pike to 100mm or so and I just about crashed before I got out of the garage! I tried a few minutes of 120mm setting on the street just to give it a try before maxxing out the travel to 140mm. It is still twitchy. How do you guys ride with slammed forks? I'm tempted to put my 66 on this thing. It still wouldn't be slack enough. Ha! I guess this is something you get used to... funny how that works. On the flip side, skinny ledges are much easier.
Parts spec: Supercross MX26 long, Pike Dual Air, Avid BB7 185/160, Maxxis Larsen 2.35 (rear dh casing is much smaller width than front single wall, both are labeled 2.35), Eastern Pro cranks, Profile chainring 28t, cassette 13t, Sun Mammoth rear rim 36° on Nashbar cassette hub, Sun Singletrack 32° up front on Marzocchi hub (straight gauge spokes on both), Macneil saddle and post (thanks Bikesatori for the weight weenie thread, hadn't seen these before, very nice design), Intense lock on grips with flange cut down, FSA Pig headset.
Can't wait to get out on some dirt and freeride trails... nice to switch it up.
One last thing, if you ever want to figure out what your chainstay length will be depending on gear selection, check out this site, very useful: http://eehouse.org/fixin/
Photo hosting thanks to Flickr.
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Thread: New build: SX MX26