Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Toasted BLT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    136

    Lowering an Argyle Fork

    Just wanted to summarize and pass on the process that I found worked for me when I lowered my 2008 Argyle 318. My goal was to lower my Argyle 20mm for a Black Market Riot build. This is compiled from a number of threads on a number of sites. Some of the info in these threads was really good, some was inaccurate, at least relative to my Argyle. This is what worked for me, use and abuse at your own risk...

    Starting axle to crown on my Argyle was 490mm.

    Here is the summary of what I found worked to lower my Argyle by 19mm... Note, I am just covering the spacer configurations, since servicing the spring is already covered very well in the Rockshox service manual on the SRAM website.

    1) Remove all the pre-load spacers from the top of the spacer stack. Note that each pre-load spacer is ~3mm thick. My Argyle came with two stacked together. Set these aside, you will re-install them again shortly.

    2) Remove the factory 40mm spacer that sits on top of the positive spring, Put it in a zip lock bag and save it for the day you want to change back to the stock configuration.

    3) Install 2-1"ODx1/2"IDx3/8"thick nylon spacers on top of the negative spring at the bottom of the spring/spacer shaft. This lowers the fork 19mm. These spacers can be bought at most hardware stores for $1.50 for a bag of two.

    3) Install the following stack on top of the positive spring. Note that this spacer stack fits inside the top cap and provides the the proper preload for the lowered fork. This stack, from top to bottom is:

    a) All of the factory pre-load spacers removed in step (1) installed lip side down

    b) 2-3/4"ODx1/2"IDx3/8"thick nylon spacers. These spacers can be bought at most hardware stores for $1.50 for a bag of two. Note that the lip on the pre-load spacers above fit nicely into the 1/2" ID of these aftermarket spacers.

    c) 1-extra factory pre-load spacer (3mm thick) installed lip side up. Again, the lip on the preload spacer will fit nicely in the 1/2" ID of the aftermarket spacers above it.

    With this stack on top of the positive spring, you will be back at the same spring pre-load that the fork had at the beginning of the conversion. Note that the one additional pre-load spacer makes up for the fact that the 4-3/8" thick aftermarket nylon spacers only stack up to 38mm vs the 40mm factory spacer that was removed.

    Ending axle to crown on my Argyle was 471mm, 19mm lower than the factory configuration. You can play with other spacer configurations to obtain your desired axle to crown measurement.

    I made a pictoral diagram to help visualize how the fork configuration changes for the conversion. I can post it as well, if anyone would find it helpful.

    Note that you can do the whole conversion without removing the lowers and without draining any of the oil from the lowers. I picked up this trick working on my Pike and it works just as well on the Argyle.

    Hope this helps anyone else trying to lower their Argyle. Good luck...

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: cmc4130's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    1,352
    nice work ! so did you change the spring or not ?

    that would be rad if you could post the diagram.... (what about pics?) i am in the market to get a fork that i can lower to about 65mm for a 24" park bike.




    weight: 5.67lb (2572g)
    dropout: 20x110mm Maxle-360
    spring type: coil
    travel: 100mm (3.95")
    adjustability: external rebound, compression
    damping: Motion Control
    color: white
    axle-crown: 491mm
    brake mount: disc only (6" IS*)


    Coil spring system with internal preload adjustablility
    MotionControl oil damping with external compression+lockout, and rebound
    1-1/8" threadless aluminum steerer with 32mm 4130 CrMo taperwall stanchions fixed to a forged 6061-T6 aluminum crown with integrated PopLoc cable stop
    1-piece magnesium lower legs with 20x110mm Maxle-360 (quick-release) thru-axle, disc brake only (51mm IS-QR *requires thinner caliper adapter than IS-TA style): 2.6" tire OK

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Toasted BLT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    136
    No, I was not planning to change the spring on the Argyle, just wanted to lower it. The Argyle comes from the factory with the firmest spring installed, which is what I was looking for anyway. It would have been easy to swap the spring during the process, if you were looking to install a lighter spring.

    Here is the pictorial diagram. It's not to scale or anything, but it helped me visualize what was going on with the fork arrangement and what was changing.



    I did not take a lot of pictures, since my hands were covered in fork oil and grease from removing and installing the spring, spacer, and shaft assembly. Here are the couple I took showing the internals and the factory vs aftermarket spacers.

    Stock configuration with 2 pre-load spacers and the 40mm factory spacer on top of the spring on the left side of the photo:



    Making the conversion... showing the 2 pre-load spacers at the left end of the spring (below the top cap) and the 40mm factory spacer removed. The 4 x 3/8" thick aftermarket nylon spacers are shown above the 40mm stock spacer at the top of the photo. To lower the Argyle 19mm, place the two 1"ODx1/2"IDx3/8"thick aftermarket spacers on top of the negative spring on the right side of the spring/spacer shaft. Place the two 3/4"ODx1/2"IDx3/8"thick afternarket spacers plus 3 pre-load spacers back on top of the positive spring on the left side of the photo, where the 40mm factory spacer and 2 pre-load spacers used to be. Then re-install the assembly and tighten the top cap back down. Note, I added an extra pre-load spacer to make-up the difference between the 38mm stack height of the 4-3/8" thick aftermarket spacers vs the 40mm factory spacer.



    Here is the link to the TF Tune article that shows you how to the change the u-turn spring on a Pike without removing the lowers or draining the oil. The process works the same on the Argyle, though the internals are obviously a little different.
    http://www.tftunedshox.com/tech-area...g-fitting.html

    The key is to keep the fork horizontal when servicing the spring. A bike stand helps to hang onto the steerer tube and hold the fork in position, while you are working on it.

    Good luck on your conversion...
    Last edited by Toasted BLT; 02-04-2009 at 09:51 PM.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Toasted BLT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    136
    Bumped, since I was finally able to get the diagram and photos in the thread.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,136
    good work BLT. and to add to the discussion, measure your axle to crown before and after the lowering to ensure that you've actually lowered it the desired amount.

    when I lowered mine, I measured the wiper-crown distance, and it was 95mm. not quite the 83-85 I expected. checking the A2C yielded approx. 471mm though, which is bang on for the lowered spec according to rockshox' site.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Toasted BLT's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    136
    Hey Bry,

    Thanks. Sounds like your effort came in bang on target as well. Glad that's done. You will have to let me know how you like the Blk Mkt with the new lower fork.

    I am still building mine. Cranks should be here tomorrow, but wheels and pedals won't be here till late next week. Hopefully finish the build that weekend. I will post some pics as the build progresses.

    Later,

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •