Results 1 to 24 of 24
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26

    how do i get my chainline correct

    i just converted from a 2x9 to a 1x9 setup and am having issues with my chainline.....how do i go about fixing this?....new BB or new crankset?....i need to bring the crank arms closer to the BB to get the right chainline...the chain angle on my 2 largest rear gears is what im having issues with....i can never get those 2 gears perfectly adjusted because of the chains angle....any ideas?

    i have an 03 truvativ holtzfeller 36t on a specialized P2.....

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikebike69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    69
    Did you have this problem on the previous set up {2x9}? If you are using the same equipment all you should do is add a guide and your off.. You did keep the front chainring on the inboard crank face.... right?

  3. #3
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Try a slightly shorter bb spindle. Usually you wouldn't have issues adjusting the last gears, even if it is way out. It'll just put the chain at an awkward angle. Make sure it isn't the limits that won't allow the chain to move into the last gears.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    yes its the same exact setup as before(components) and i did have the same problem with the 2 largest cog rings before(too extreme of an chain angle)....the crank was made to have 3 rings on it...right now i have a bashguard in place of the the largest ring....i run on the middle ring now and the granny ring was removed...once i took off the front derauiller the chain drops started happening...i guess i never realized the real problem before because the front dreauiller kept everything in place.....i just delt with the crunchy noise of the 2 largests gears in the back(which are useless now)...

    can this be fixed with a new bottom bracket to move the crank arms closer to the BB or would i need a new crank made to be used as a single in the front...ive been looking at other pictures of peoples 1x9 setups and their cranks are alot closer to the BB than mine is...some pics of mine



    Last edited by matrivera78; 10-05-2006 at 07:02 PM.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    heres what my chain looks like in the largest cog....i can get it to switch to the top 2 cogs but cant get them ajusted...took it to 2 of my LBS' with no luck...it always wants to drop the chain in the 2 largest cogs and is always crunchy...would a shorter spindle bring the crankarm cloers to the BB??..if so what size and brand?


  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    412
    well i could be wrong but it looks like you need more links in your chain.

  7. #7
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Nope, his chain length is fine.

    Any ISIS BB will work just fine. I'm not sure what length you're using now. But you can probably go about 5mm shorter. That'll bring it in closer by 2.5mm on each side. But make sure that the chainring won't rub on the frame, and that the cranks will be able to clear the frame. Do some careful measuring.

    Personally, I like the Truvativ bbs. They can be had for very cheap, and seem relatively durable. I go through ISIS bbs in about 4 to 6 months usually. I've never had much luck with the Race Face bbs, and I've never tried the FSA ones.

    You can also try chainring spacers. And just slip a spacer between the crank mounts and the chainring holes. It'll push it over a little bit. See if it helps.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikebike69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    69
    Couple of things to think about; A shorter bottom bracket will help but you only have about 3-5mm left or else your inner most ring bolt bosses will strike the guide,so you may want to buy a two ring only crankset. Also you can move inward only so far befor the chainring strikes the chainstay or drop chainring size a couple of teeth. And yeah add some chain links or drop down to a road cogset. Good luck

  9. #9
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Quote Originally Posted by bikebike69
    Couple of things to think about; A shorter bottom bracket will help but you only have about 3-5mm left or else your inner most ring bolt bosses will strike the guide,so you may want to buy a two ring only crankset. Also you can move inward only so far befor the chainring strikes the chainstay or drop chainring size a couple of teeth. And yeah add some chain links or drop down to a road cogset. Good luck
    2 ring and bash is the exact same as a 3 ring. He'll need a crankset without the granny mounts. 3 to 5mm is A LOT.

    His chainlength is fine. Swapping to a road cassette will not solve his chainline issues.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    thanks guys for the responses...will i think i will try your idea with the chainring spacers....sounds like a nice cheap fix to the problem

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: bikebike69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    69
    The swapping to a road cogset was to aid in his chain length not chain line. You should know that when your derailer is in a high leverage posistion like that it becomes harder for it to shift properly. Swapping to a lower range cogset would give him "more" chain and less tension on the derailer. Just because a derailer will reach that far does not mean it will fuction best extended all the way out.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    412
    thank you that is my point....the der. is so stretched out that its making it hard to shift smoothly...now if you had a short cage der. then i think that would solve the problem. because you do not have that far a range of gears and so you do not need a long cage der. like if you have 3x9.

  13. #13
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    Quote Originally Posted by bikebike69
    The swapping to a road cogset was to aid in his chain length not chain line. You should know that when your derailer is in a high leverage posistion like that it becomes harder for it to shift properly. Swapping to a lower range cogset would give him "more" chain and less tension on the derailer. Just because a derailer will reach that far does not mean it will fuction best extended all the way out.
    It can stretch even further than that. And you're right about the derailleur not neccesarily functioning well when it's completely stretched out. But I don't think he has a problem here.

    A short cage will simply have less chain capacity. It will still stretch.

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    my problem isnt shifting...never was...it shifts from one gear to the next perfectly, so i dont think its my chain length...i took it to a far away not so local bike shop where the tech spent about 40 minutes fine tuning my gears and he got them to work...the chain still falls but not as much as before...i bought a third eye chain watcher from the shop i got the gears tuned from and willput it on tonight...hopefully the chain stays put...if not i'll space out the chainring so thats its closer to the BB as will suggested...if tht fails then i'll probably get a new BB...but it seems like it will stay put now...thanks for all of the help guys

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    another question...does it make a difference if my chinring is ramped with a 1x9 set up or will it work fine?

  16. #16
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    You can flip it around so the ramps face the bashguard (if it'll clear). Naturally a stepped or straight chainring with deep teeth will help prevent chainsuck. Try an n-gear. It will not allow the chain to fall to the inside.

    Chain length is not an issue. Plus you have a chainguide on it. Rotating the guide will put less tension on the chain and the derailleur will not stretch as far. Though I still believe that it is not a problem.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    how doi tell what size my BB spindle is...do i have to remove the cranks and measure it?....on the BB cups it says 68mm shell O rings, 73mm shell no O rings, single bearing...and thats all it says.....and ideas

  18. #18
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    It'll either say in the middle (covered by the frame). Or you have to measure. The spindle length is from one side to the other. End to end.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    thanks again will

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26

    spacers?

    are these spacers?...can they be removed or are they something thats fixed into place...they dont seem to slide off when i remove the crank arm...


  21. #21
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    That's an integral part of the bb.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    thanks,

    does the spacer have to do with the spindle length...all of the 118mm spindles ive seen online had this "spacer" on it and all of the 113mm spindles didnt...ive gotten my drivetrain to run smoother but with some more abusive riding it goes back to its old tricks and the rear derauiller needs adjusting again.....i bought a 3rd eye chainwatcher from my LBS and i havent dropped the chain since...next week i plan on buying a new BB...not sure on the size but i think im going to need 113mm spindle (i'll remove my BB to find out before ordering) any reccomendations on which BB to buy($50-80 range)

  23. #23
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,516
    I like the Truvativ bbs. If you go online, I think Jenson usually has OE Truvativ bbs for under 20 bucks. Not the most glamorous, but they hold up pretty well. Otherwise I'd go for the Gigapipe DHLT, or something along those lines.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    26
    thanks will,

    ive deceided to get the truvativ gigapipe team dh isis BB and a 4mm thick dh sprocket to bring the chain over some more... is there stiffer truvativ BB than the one ive choosen?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •