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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr boo boo
    Those ideas sound good. I brought in dirt but I still would like to dig down for some pits. I would have brought in less dirt but I have alot of sand and I want the track to last. 14" to 18" roller seem short to me but this is the first track I have ever built. How would a pit like the one in the picture be to roll thru and not jump? My boys are only 6 and 4 and aren't jumping yet. Is the spacing on the pit with the step-up similar to the drawing earlier in this thread? I know I will probably build some of these lines more than once to find out what works but it doesn't hurt to start out with a good plan.
    the step down/step up pit we built is too big for 4 and 6 yrs old. our pump track is really a blend of traditional pump track with bmx trails/dirt jump dimensions...

    if you don't already have the the Leelikesbikes.com "Welcome to Pump Track Nation" e-book, i highly recommend it as a great starting point.
    i PM'd you...

  2. #52
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    I have Lee's book on pump tracks, and it has been usefull. I want the track to be a pump track with a bmxtrails/dj influence. The traditional pump track looks like it would be a great workout by itself, but I want more jumps than pumps. I know the pits will be too much for my boys right know so I plan to build some lines with smaller jumpable rollers for them. I want to encourage them as much as I can. I take them to a local abandon bmx track when I can and they love it. I will definitely be able to spend more time at the track if they come with me. PM sent.

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr boo boo
    I have Lee's book on pump tracks, and it has been usefull. I want the track to be a pump track with a bmxtrails/dj influence. The traditional pump track looks like it would be a great workout by itself, but I want more jumps than pumps. I know the pits will be too much for my boys right know so I plan to build some lines with smaller jumpable rollers for them. I want to encourage them as much as I can. I take them to a local abandon bmx track when I can and they love it. I will definitely be able to spend more time at the track if they come with me. PM sent.
    speaking of abandoned BMX tracks....
    there is a lot you can learn about how BMX race tracks and how they work design-wise (both good tracks and bad tracks), and how they are different from both pump tracks and BMX "Trails." IMO a "next level" pump track takes influences both from bmx tracks and from trails (and maybe skateparks too). from bmx tracks, you take the mellowness and rollableness--you want to flow over stuff fast and low. peakyness or steep angles will throw off the natural flow... BMX trails is all about spacing--in rhythm sections you dive into one landing into a bowl and boost out the next lip... skatepark bowl corners will show a lot about berms...

    first off.... BMX tracks and starting hills.... here's an example of a starting hill that is seriously lacking for the size of the first jump. in BMX trails, riders generally want to drop in and hit something, or maybe take 3 to 5 cranks a couple of rollers and then hit something. this one, you'd have to crank like a maniac to hit the first table.



    next... rollers that are too short and peaky. there are two ways to fix this roller--get rid of it, or make it a lot bigger/mellower/longer, more like a wave, not like a speed bump.








    once again, rollers should not be bump--FLAT--bump---FLAT..... they should be waves.... about 7-10 wheelbarrows of dirt on each one of these would fix them....



    next... berms with too big off a radius basically aren't working for their intended purpose. note how the tire-packed area is not even on the berm.... the reason BMX track berms are huge is that riders are pedaling full speed. if you just want to cruise/flow through a pump track , you want MUCH smaller radius turns.


    this section was actually pretty good. 3 rollable doubles (tables with a little bit of camel-back shape to them) in a row. the problem here is simply speed. you have to come cranking like a crackhead around a mellow radius berm, then you hit these pretty long sets. in pump track or BMX trails terms, sets this size would be good at the bottom of a decline, but on flat ground they should just be shorter. 10-13 feet instead of 16-20.....



    pump track design can actually learn a lot from skateparks. (i skated for 10 years, bmx for 25).
    to be super-fluid and effortless, pump track berms IMO should be more like skatepark bowl corners than like traditional bmx track berms . .


    so... this berm at our spot is roughly an 8 foot radius (typical skatepark transition), only maybe 3 feet high at the most... but try to transition the face of the berm up in a skatepark bowl shape and you'll be able to lean a lot harder...... plus it just kinda looks cool..


    that's all for now.

  4. #54
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    nice picks of the crappy Allen BMX. They need to turn that thing into a dirt jump park

  5. #55
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    here's a little more motivation..........




    http://www.leelikesbikes.com/lyons-b...ride-sesh.html

  6. #56
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    very nice. one of those plate tampers has been on my DO WANT list.
    Tim M Hovey

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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by euroford
    very nice. one of those plate tampers has been on my DO WANT list.
    bought one the other day, I use Pam no-stick to keep the dirt from clumping on it

  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by crazy Jim
    bought one the other day, I use Pam no-stick to keep the dirt from clumping on it
    BRILLIANT!

    our dirt has CRAZY high clay content, which makes for some bomber jumps, but it can be very hard to work with. any idea on how the tamp might work for breaking up clumps of dry stuff or packing down the wet crazy sticky stuff??
    Tim M Hovey

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  9. #59
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    Finally got some time to work on the pump track plans again. I have an area cleared for the track with 100yds of clay waiting for me to get started.
    Here is the proposed plan. I think I have the outside lines figured out, the rollers will be about 10' peak to peak with 2 pits on the long sides that are 20' lip to landing. I still don't know what I want to do with the inside lines. I have indicated on the plan where there will be transfers from the outside to inside lines. I know some of this will change once we start moving dirt and riding it. I would appreciate any suggestions or ideas for some fun lines.I like CMC's ideas about monster rollers and pits and would like to incorporate the step-down to pit to step-up form earlier in this thread. The track is going to be more of a jump/pump track then a pure pump track. I will also be building a roll-in ramp where its noted on the plan, probably about 8' to 10' high. Track dimensions are 51'-8 x 117'-6".
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DJ , Pump Track plans-pump-track-post-email.jpg  


  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr boo boo
    Finally got some time to work on the pump track plans again. I have an area cleared for the track with 100yds of clay waiting for me to get started.
    Here is the proposed plan. I think I have the outside lines figured out, the rollers will be about 10' peak to peak with 2 pits on the long sides that are 20' lip to landing. I still don't know what I want to do with the inside lines. I have indicated on the plan where there will be transfers from the outside to inside lines. I know some of this will change once we start moving dirt and riding it. I would appreciate any suggestions or ideas for some fun lines.I like CMC's ideas about monster rollers and pits and would like to incorporate the step-down to pit to step-up form earlier in this thread. The track is going to be more of a jump/pump track then a pure pump track. I will also be building a roll-in ramp where its noted on the plan, probably about 8' to 10' high. Track dimensions are 51'-8 x 117'-6".
    Looks good, but at this point I think you just need to get started. Build the outside loop and ride it for a while THEN decide how you want the inside stuff. Leave the super technical stuff like 360 berms till later. I suggest just building the 4 corner berms first, with nothing in between, then ride it to get a feeling of how fast you'll want to be going. Spacing of rollers and jumps has everything to do with speed. Once you dig a pit it is SERIOUS pain to move it. Learned that the hard way.

    Here's another step down to step up we built (or at least started) last Saturday:
    Natural ravines/washouts/whatver you call 'em are great. you build a kicker or flat wedge drop 10-15 ft back from the decline. it purely depends on how much speed you want to crank into it with. we're still working on the landing.
    Last edited by cmc4130; 01-28-2010 at 10:02 PM.

  11. #61
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    I agree that I need to just get started. The only reason for all the planning right now is that I don't have a lot of help and I have 100 yds of dirt to move and that doesnt include digging the pits.. I am planning to bring in a bobcat to move the majority of the dirt and want to get as much done as possible with the machinery. Once thats done I know it will start taking shape. I know the only way to get it right is to ride it and find out what works and what doesn't.

  12. #62
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    FInally got a chance to move some dirt. I had about 100 yds of clay to move to get the track started. I brought in a bobcat for a few hours and got a lot accomplished. The outside berms and lines are in place as well as the dirt for the 360 berms, Now I just need to get a chance to get out there and start shaping and compacting the dirt. I will be bringing in more dirt for the exisiting rollers and the rest of the inside lines.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails DJ , Pump Track plans-pump-4-email.jpg  

    DJ , Pump Track plans-pump-email-5.jpg  


  13. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr boo boo
    FInally got a chance to move some dirt. I had about 100 yds of clay to move to get the track started. I brought in a bobcat for a few hours and got a lot accomplished. The outside berms and lines are in place as well as the dirt for the 360 berms, Now I just need to get a chance to get out there and start shaping and compacting the dirt. I will be bringing in more dirt for the exisiting rollers and the rest of the inside lines.
    good goin !

  14. #64
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    this spot looks well-built, smooth, with creative lines.

    Johnson Pumptrack and Dirt Jumps

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    did another write-up in this thread:

    "dirt jump specs?"
    dirt jumps - specs?

  17. #67
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    Hi, and sorry to bump an old thread. i'm not a DJ'er by any means, but i'm building a pump track in a ~60'x30' space, and i was thinking of incorporating some of the ideas in this thread (along with Lee McCormack's).

    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4130
    you should definitely use natural terrain ups and downs. it's more challenging, but in the end it is way more fun.

    for going up a slight incline or gaining speed from a slow speed consider an accelerating rollers design:
    This "accelerating rollers" idea is one that i like. Does anyone here have any opinions on how well they would work if the track is bidirectional? that is, if a rider were coming down a slight slope, and encountered smaller, more frequent rollers as he descended, would it throw off the flow?

    i'll have some other questions later, but for now, thanks in advance for lending whatever knowledge you guys have.

  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by joshben
    Hi, and sorry to bump an old thread. i'm not a DJ'er by any means, but i'm building a pump track in a ~60'x30' space, and i was thinking of incorporating some of the ideas in this thread (along with Lee McCormack's).

    This "accelerating rollers" idea is one that i like. Does anyone here have any opinions on how well they would work if the track is bidirectional? that is, if a rider were coming down a slight slope, and encountered smaller, more frequent rollers as he descended, would it throw off the flow?

    i'll have some other questions later, but for now, thanks in advance for lending whatever knowledge you guys have.
    it definitely feels different going the other direction, but it works. i usually roll the big one then double-manual the last two. maybe i'll get a vid of it.

  19. #69
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    wow, thanks for the quick response! you truly are an invaluable resource to this community.

  20. #70
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    hey Dr. B B, any riding pics or vids yet?

  21. #71
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    No riding pics yet. When I started the track work was really slow and then I got busy, which is a good thing. I have only had time for one ride a week and no time to build. Good news though, went out to the track on Wednesday with a buddy and started work again. We didn't have a lot of time but we we're able to rake out all the rollers and berms and start watering the dirt. I'm going to either rent or borrow a compactor to speed up the process. I can't wait to start riding the track. Now that I have some help I think building will start moving right along.

  22. #72
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    this roller in the street course at the new Cedar Park, Texas, skatepark is a good example of a bubbled over (or VW'd) roller shape that is not peaky.


  23. #73
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    now this is a serious Monster Roller.

    forget what you've learned about pump tracks having to have rollers that are no more than 18" tall.

    this will add some serious fun to a pump track.


    from
    http://leastmost.com/news/the-lord/

    by rounding off what would otherwise be a table, you make it perfect for scrubs....

  24. #74
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    in this drawing (which is to scale), 15" height from bottom of pit to peak of roller corresponds with roughly 12' (actually 11.875') spacing, if you're doing a 1:9.5 ratio.

    also note how the shape of the roller does not come up to a peak. it is just the inverse of a bowl, the top of a dome, VW beetle roof, however you want to think of it.

    also note that the radius i used to draw the rollers and pits would be roughly 7'6". SO.... if these rollers are heading into a berm, you could use a 7.5' radius for the berm, and the "wave" effect will feel consistent. the berm is really a sideways pit/trough/bowl.


    Last edited by cmc4130; 10-14-2010 at 02:22 PM.

  25. #75
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    quick edit from one afternoon (Kristen's 'K-dog'' birthday jam)


    as you may be able to tell, my philosophy of pump tracks (and the austin/bmx style of pump track) is a pump track with full sized tables and rollable doubles mixed in. it's a blend of bmx trails and "pump track").

  26. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4130
    quick edit from one afternoon (Kristen's 'K-dog'' birthday jam)


    as you may be able to tell, my philosophy of pump tracks (and the austin/bmx style of pump track) is a pump track with full sized tables and rollable doubles mixed in. it's a blend of bmx trails and "pump track").

    that looks like one of the best spots Ive seen so far. due to everything looks rollable, yet, there are still some huge jumps in there to for people who can go big.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by irocss85
    that looks like one of the best spots Ive seen so far. due to everything looks rollable, yet, there are still some huge jumps in there to for people who can go big.
    Yeah, I saw footage of that a few months ago and fell in love! That is still the best layout I have seen for a hybrid pump track and the prototype ideal for anything I may ever try to build.

    The blend of structures is just too fun! it is the most versatile track I know of. Any rider of any skill type and level can ride that thing and have a blast and feel like they are improving.

  28. #78
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    hey thanks ayenn and irocs . . . !

    here is a drawing of a beginner line of tables, followed by beginner/intermediate, followed by a sample of a more advanced line.

    the main thing for beginners is that a short gap does not necessarily make a jump easy. it's the steepness or mellowness that makes it easy. a beginner can clear 10 feet with the appropriate speed if a jump is mellow.

    as for the spacing, note that if you go by the guideline that your bowl should be roughly twice (but up to 3 times) the length of the gap you just cleared then you get a nice rhythm section with constant transition instead of having lots of flat space in between jumps.


    Last edited by cmc4130; 11-10-2010 at 03:41 PM.

  29. #79
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    This thread rocks! Just looking at those plans and photos gets my blood pumping. I've been contemplating buying some land and building my own private bike park to ride on. Especially since land is so freaking cheap right now in Arizona.

  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4130
    quick edit from one afternoon (Kristen's 'K-dog'' birthday jam)


    as you may be able to tell, my philosophy of pump tracks (and the austin/bmx style of pump track) is a pump track with full sized tables and rollable doubles mixed in. it's a blend of bmx trails and "pump track").
    MAN! that place has fun written all over it! SOOOO jealous! Is it city approved?!

    Austin eh? hrm... I need to start thinking of an excuse to go to Austin, hehe (for the GF, that spot is all the excuse I need)

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    i'm posting this just to show what a difference some added height and steepness on a berm can make. this is the same berm going from relatively boring to gnarly corner-pocket-launcher.




  32. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr boo boo
    FInally got a chance to move some dirt. I had about 100 yds of clay to move to get the track started. I brought in a bobcat for a few hours and got a lot accomplished. The outside berms and lines are in place as well as the dirt for the 360 berms, Now I just need to get a chance to get out there and start shaping and compacting the dirt. I will be bringing in more dirt for the exisiting rollers and the rest of the inside lines.

    Nice work! I gota ask thoughif the chainlink is temporary or permanent. I know it would bother me to be jumping adjacent to a fence like that...just one more thing that could go wrong if you bobble slightly (hook bars). Looks really cool though.

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    The lost art of the "Long and Low" or "Fast and Low." This is based around a 30 degree arc radius. The goal is not to go high, it's to go fast and stay low. This type of setup can be a great addition to your trails especially if you put steeper sets later on down the line. Because I drew the landing as a bowl with no flat space (and the bowl length is 1.5 times, rather than twice the length of the gap), the next lip will come at you pretty quick. However, that's pretty typical in on bmx race track rhythm sections so it's good to get used to.

    Remember with 2 or 3 foot tall jumps, you have to make the transition mellower than a taller jump, or else there is not enough wheelbase on the surface of the jump for your bike to transition from flat ground without it feeling abrupt. You can't put 70 degrees of arc on a lip 3 feet tall--it will be virtually unrideable. On the other hand, a 6 foot tall lip with 70 degrees of arc is a gnarly booster.





    As for 'degrees of arc' and trajectory. . . . keep in mind that riders can boost off a flatter jump and go into a higher trajectory path, or they can 'suck up the lip' (aka 'racering' a lip) to prevent the jump from sending them too high, so they can stay lower and faster. The jump does some of the work, but you and your bike do the rest.
    Last edited by cmc4130; 12-02-2010 at 02:19 PM.

  34. #84
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    video from Cedar Park / Austin - Public Dirt Jump/Pump Track build day

    i did already post this in the trail building forum, but it would go well in this thread too. my crew will be out there again this weekend getting stuff dialed--it's not my local spot (it's about 25 miles away) but i some of my crew lives out there. so, the more spots to ride the better.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ3OdYeNxgU

    Saturday and Sunday. 16 hours labor. 10.5 hours Bobcat run time. $40 in diesel. Shown in video: Line of roller and 4 big tabletops completed.
    Not shown in video: Another line of 2 berms, table and roller, dirt moved into place but not shaped and packed. A third line of 1 table, 135 degree berm and 4 rollers moved into place and only partly shaped/packed. (Not shown in video).

    From experience, my advice is even with a Bobcat, do not underestimate the amount of time and skilled labor required for shaping and packing !!

    Thanks to Austin Ridgeriders Mountain Bike Club/ for contributing the cost of the Bobcat rental.

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    Very cool time-lapse of pump track being hand-dug. Note that they are digging from the riding line, not next to it, or from some other big hole. This is a good method, although it will create pits that hold water. There are ways to address that though, like having a slot drain next to the roller line.

    http://www.vitalmtb.com/videos/membe...78/drkost,1816

    "Here is a start-to-finish time lapse of the 604 pump track construction. We built the track in seven days over a period of two months. Thanks to everyone who volunteered their time and effort. Special thanks to Matt at North Shore Bike Shop. For more info check out http://dirtwest.blogspot.com Credit: dirtwest "

  37. #87
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    this spot, which my friends built in the course of about 3 months, is a good demonstration of how, when you have flat ground, you may want to build a long crank-in run-up or, alternatively, a wood drop in. note that an 8 foot tall drop in was not quite tall enough to immediately be able to hit a double, without having a roller before it. spacing of the gaps and pits (lip to landing distance versus distance across the bowl to the next pit) roughly follows the rule that if your jump is 10 foot, lip to landing, you want at least double ( 20 feet) from the top of the landing to the lip of the next jump. you can go up to 23 or 25 . . .but if you go longer, then you will have serious slowness problem. the more you bowl down, the tighter you can put them. if you have actual flat space in between, it doesn't matter as much--but who really wants to have to put in a crank between sets??

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XXi1t...layer_embedded

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    Even though it's true you have to deal with water issues, digging from the riding line by using the pit/bowl method of construction speeds things up, for the reason that every shovel you dig down, you are effectively also building the line up. It's like double digging. The end result is a very clean looking line of dirt jumps because you are not digging random holes off to the side.




    [ EDIT (3/9/11): The jumps, which my friends built, in this video are designed and spaced pretty close to the above drawing (except maybe with 28' or so between top of landing to next lip): ]

    This cover of the DIG MAGAZINE Trails issue is a very good visual of the end result. Note how the builders did not dig out the gap between the launch and landing (lame!!).

    To deal with water filling up pits, there are several methods--the best of which is digging an even deeper slot or deep/skinny dugout hole which you can then cover over with plywood or with stratgically placed flat rock. The water will drop down and soak downwards, allowing the riding line of the pit to not hold water.


    Last edited by cmc4130; 03-09-2011 at 03:08 PM.

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    great example of a mellow lip for the first set and steeper stuff after that:


    from:
    http://www.pinkbike.com/forum/listco...56&pagenum=789

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    This is a very well-done design for a public park:
    Superior Bike Park in Superior, CO

    http://www.leelikesbikes.com/photos-...bike-park.html


  41. #91
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    This was an awesome spot that just got dozed. (The perspective and camera lens makes the jumps look shorter than they actually were though).

    It's also a good illustration of the pit/bowl method of building, where you dig from the riding line to make the jumps. You might think of it as more like consecutive half-pipes dug into the ground.

    For a cleaner look, try to avoid digging next to the line to build the jumps . . . Dig only from the riding line. If you end up needing more dirt later and don't want to dig the bowl down more, then wheelbarrow it over from a future bowl. ... It requires a little more planning because as you build your landing you're also using some of the dirt from the pit/bowl to build the next launch. In the end, though, it's worth it, because your trails won't have moon craters.

    You can dig french drain style slots/holes to let the water drop down (all you need is for there to be a part of the pit that is deeper than the riding line of the pit... although if you're in a super rainy area, this may or may not work.


    photo by T.S.
    Last edited by cmc4130; 04-15-2011 at 08:40 AM.

  42. #92
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    Quote Originally Posted by cmc4130
    cmc, you have the horizontal distances documented here real nicely, can you throw some vertical guidelines in. I'm going to shoot for something like this on the pump line line I have going. I want it to be more pump/jump like your drawing here.
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  43. #93
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    One thing I haven't talked about yet on here are "Roller-Tables." They are an essential part of a rad pump track (or even bmx/mtbmx 'trails') in my opinion. For lack of a better word, they are blend of both a roller and a tabletop. They are not table-top jumps because the goal is to not really to jump but rather to stay super close and skim the top, and they are not rollers because they do not bubble up or have a bowl top lid--they flatten out. You're basically building a low-to-the-ground table top (anywhere from 1' to 3' tall, of varying lengths depending on your speed), then instead of having typical "lips" or corners at the lip and landing, you curve/fade the corner off, so that the lip/landing edges are rounded over. This allows the rider to stay low on the table for "un-air." Common in bmx racing. Staying low means going faster.



    One of the cool things about roller tables is that because you can skim over them, a lot of times you can do cool nose manuals across them and then pump the backside really hard.



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    O.M.P. at WCPT (photo by 9thstreetbmx)


    sometimes you will see roller-table style designs in cement skateparks. i couldn't find a better picture than this . . . but imagine if you were hitting the roller-table style pyramid in the middle of this park and just trying to stay low and pumping for speed (and the two grindboxes weren't there):
    Last edited by cmc4130; 04-26-2011 at 03:49 PM.

  44. #94
    pnj
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    check this backyard build.

    A backyard pump track is born!

  45. #95
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    The Physics of Trails Flow . . . .

    While I definitely don't think trails should be too mathematical / predictible / cookie-cutter, there is something weirdly addicting about a line that has an effortless, almost rhythmic flow. Every jump puts you right where you need to be for the speed that you have (without any special body english), and the next lip doesn't come at you too fast or too slow.

    It took me a while to figure out the connection with waves; when I first started digging, I learned some rules of thumb from older riders (e.g. the distance from top of landing to top of next lip should be roughly double the gap you just cleared) . . . but I never quite put my finger on why that was.

    It's not that jumps look like waves or even that they are spaced the same way that waves in the ocean would be . . . It's the rider's position over points in time has a consistency that is wave-like. Wave motion itself ( UP - DOWN - UP - DOWN .....) has a certain feeling to it that people intuitively recognize. Like if you're sitting on a boat and feeling the waves, or if you're listening to music with a good rhythm (most songs don't randomly speed up and slow down). It's a position or feeling over different points in time. If you space dirt jump sets erratically, you won't "feel" like you're riding across the terrain in a wave-motion.

    Not every line has to be this way. Variety is good. Sometimes 'tech' sets should throw you off a little and make you work for it (e.g. "racer" one set, boost another) and sometimes it's good to add weird elements like a waterfall, or rollers that you have to manual over to make it work..... But, as a starting point at least . . . consider 'wave' spacing......

    Hopefully this is helpful! :




    So remember, it's not that you make the jumps look like these waves. It's that the rider's highest point in the air, from one point to the next, is the "peak" . . . and the "peaks" are evenly spaced (over time) the same way the peaks of water waves are evenly spaced..... I say evenly spaced over time because if your jump line is on a decline and you are gaining speed, every set could actually get both longer-gap and longer distance to the next jump, but the rider is still going to hit each peak in the air every x number of seconds.

    Last edited by cmc4130; 04-28-2011 at 10:17 AM.

  46. #96
    bikerpilot
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    Last night I figured what the heck and started digging in the empty lot behind the house. Terrible location: pancake flat, bakes in the sun most of the day with zero shade, will have a house built on it sooner or later; but I figured if I can get a small track rolling for a while I can learn some things.
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  47. #97
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    Not near as dialed as some of the others (or all of them) but here is my solo build



    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yh4Jy...eature=related

  48. #98
    Swimming thru the Smog
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    Best place ive ever ridden is the I street jumps in salt lake city. Here is a good video from helmet cam of what looks like last years set up, good amount of building since then. You get to see some of the berms and mini pump track (i guess u can call it that) at the end after the ladder jumps. Either way there are a bunch of cool ideas and things in this park. Most of the stuff is relatively big and not for beginners, if this is the guy's cam i think it is, he is about 6'4.

    http://youtu.be/v70kUJlb5mA

  49. #99
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    Cool video.

  50. #100
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    Not sure if it has allready been mentioned; but when building a pumptrack, there should never be any flat surfaces on the track. It should either be going up, down, or turning.
    Braun Enterprises LLC, Building Cool Stuff

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