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  1. #1
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    brakes for urban

    well, after a ride a couple of days ago, i relized my brakes were totalled. now i need new brakes for urban. i just came off of hayes 9 and i can get anything from hayes and avid at cost (60% off)

    what do you guys recomend, ive heard a couple of people say to go with mechs, as there is less to go wrong, and easier ajustability...but it seems like a downgrade.

    what do you guys think?

  2. #2
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    I run avid bb "mtb" mechs... but was at one time pondering getting the "road" BBDB calipers, then using a diatech dirtharry lever I had on a bmx bike... but I went the cheaper option and took the avid mtb mech off the front of my echo trials bike before I sold it and mated it to another cheap tektro V lever I had on a different bmx bike. works out great, but with set-up, there is fine line between setting it for straight up power (fufans/stalls) and modulation (manuals, etc.)... just have to compromise. oh, also, I'm using an old Hayes 6" rotor, which is a bit thicker compared to the stock bbdb avid rotor... works great though, sturdy set-up, but doesn't compare with my Hope Mono hydros... then again, I'm not bombing downhills and gnarly, rooty tech terrain on my street bike either so no worries.
    you rip out a cable or housing on a bail, and it's not so bad, but you rip out a hydro line, and you have very corrosive (depending on setup) DOT fluid all over your paint, etc. and possibly an expensive and timely repair ahead of you..

    I'm assuming you are set on sticking with Discs, and not going to V's, so I didn't suggest that.

    what happened to your hfx9's that you considered the "totalled"???
    Schralp it Heavy.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSATORI
    I run avid bb "mtb" mechs... but was at one time pondering getting the "road" BBDB calipers, then using a diatech dirtharry lever I had on a bmx bike... but I went the cheaper option and took the avid mtb mech off the front of my echo trials bike before I sold it and mated it to another cheap tektro V lever I had on a different bmx bike. works out great, but with set-up, there is fine line between setting it for straight up power (fufans/stalls) and modulation (manuals, etc.)... just have to compromise. oh, also, I'm using an old Hayes 6" rotor, which is a bit thicker compared to the stock bbdb avid rotor... works great though, sturdy set-up, but doesn't compare with my Hope Mono hydros... then again, I'm not bombing downhills and gnarly, rooty tech terrain on my street bike either so no worries.
    you rip out a cable or housing on a bail, and it's not so bad, but you rip out a hydro line, and you have very corrosive (depending on setup) DOT fluid all over your paint, etc. and possibly an expensive and timely repair ahead of you..

    I'm assuming you are set on sticking with Discs, and not going to V's, so I didn't suggest that.

    what happened to your hfx9's that you considered the "totalled"???

    ya, deffinatly disc, and they are totalled because:

    front-leakins seal in lever (i know, simple repair, but i like same brakes front and back)

    rear-broken pin in lever (6$ repair) cracked lever housing (i dont know whats its called) and the piston is locked, it wont move no matter what i do.

    this all happened with one crash, i bailed, bike ghost rode intot he forest at about 30-40 km/h and smoked a tree, and left me skidding along the grass on my ass...fun

    and i want a new set of brakes anyway...

  4. #4
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    I'll use this thread to ask another q:

    My urban bike (Chase SS) comes with only a rear mech avid.
    Will shimano deore hydro brakes be fine? Are they strong enough?
    I like the hydro feel (Got HFX9 on my XC bike), and I want a front brake (Love rear manuals... gonna try practice trials on the bike)

    And - Will they fit my fork and hubs? (MZ dirtjam comp, omega front hub/ rear hub is canondale SS disc)

    Tnx

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by yules
    I'll use this thread to ask another q:

    My urban bike (Chase SS) comes with only a rear mech avid.
    Will shimano deore hydro brakes be fine? Are they strong enough?
    I like the hydro feel (Got HFX9 on my XC bike), and I want a front brake (Love rear manuals... gonna try practice trials on the bike)

    And - Will they fit my fork and hubs? (MZ dirtjam comp, omega front hub/ rear hub is canondale SS disc)

    Tnx
    thanks for jacking, or attemting to jack my thread

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by free rider
    thanks for jacking, or attemting to jack my thread
    Didn't mean to offend, our Qs are quite similar, so I've decided not to open a new thread.
    If you want, just ask, and I'll delete my Q and start a new thread.

    And by the way, Hydros feel much better than mechanical brakes.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by yules
    Didn't mean to offend, our Qs are quite similar, so I've decided not to open a new thread.
    If you want, just ask, and I'll delete my Q and start a new thread.

    And by the way, Hydros feel much better than mechanical brakes.
    sorry man, no need to delete your post but use this as a pointer next time.

    and hydros are a lot less stable and a lot more can go wrong...suck as broken housing, which invlolves bleeding and new cables which can run upwards of 40 bucks, wheres as mechs you just need a new line, which so happens i can get for free...but i need something with lots of modulation, where as hydro's have mroe power and generally lock up faster

    correcet me if im wrong but i think mechs are the way to go for me, and they are cheaper...that works on a students budjet

    i was thinking avid bb7

  8. #8
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    The bb5's are fine, a friend of mine uses them, and I've tried them, they don't lack power, although modulation is pretty low, it's still there. I'll stick to my juicies.

  9. #9
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    i need something with lots of modulation, where as hydro's have mroe power and generally lock up faster
    I would have to say this is bs... yes, they do have more power, but I think this expression of opinion must just be heavily based on your use of hfx9's, haha... which are known for having no modulation, just on/off feel...

    compared to your 9's and even some older mags, the BB7's are NOT going to be cheap, even when adding your discount in, they will be about the same I'd assume, once you add levers in as well.... 9's and mags are out for super cheap now, even juicy 5's.
    I would def. get bb7's over the 5's though if you are going the mech. route. I like having the adjustment feature on both sides, cuz mine seem to slightly change position after every ride and develop a shing. don't know if that's a rotor issue or what since I'm using the thicker hayes rotor, but just my experience...
    Schralp it Heavy.

  10. #10
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    if youve got money the 07 avid codes just came out and look like they are the brake to get i havnt tried them but they sound sick from the specs thats definatly gonna be the brake i get next.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideak
    if youve got money the 07 avid codes just came out and look like they are the brake to get i havnt tried them but they sound sick from the specs thats definatly gonna be the brake i get next.

    you don't need a 4 piston brake for urban/dj/park.... that's just over"bling", nothing else. I think he is looking to "simplify" as well, not tech it out.
    I must agree the code looks sweet, but just not in this application.
    Schralp it Heavy.

  12. #12
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    I could get an oldschool 4 pot xt for a hundred or so cdn, should I do it?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by snaky69
    I could get an oldschool 4 pot xt for a hundred or so cdn, should I do it?
    Those XT M752's (5's?) were some of my favorite brakes, for real. They use the same pads as Grimeca's and my Hope monoM4's, so they are still readily available. Very nice brakes mated with some goodridge lines as well.
    depending on how cheap you can get them I would pick'em up if I were you, just to have'em, nice to have in the parts bin or on the bike. under a hundred cdn, is that around like $70-80 usd? not too shabby at all...
    Schralp it Heavy.

  14. #14
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    dont get bb5s, get bb7s. they are mint. I run them on my downhill bike and the own my hfx9s when it comes to stalls, fufanus etc. adjustable and have good modualtion.

  15. #15
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    I run the Magura Marta's .... there super light , have amazing braking power and the lever assembly is really small so it doesnt get in the way and I can run my bars at 24in without feeling cramped
    Follow me on Instagram for up to date build pics -Brad4130
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  16. #16
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    hmmm, i have about 250 to spend, thats with 60% off...the bb7's are going to run me about 200 for the set (including levers and new rotors)

    i have only tried my hfx 9...so yes my opinion on hydros is soley based on that. so should i go with hydro or mechs?

    and i never said i would get bb 5's i would go up a step to the 7's...but then theres a question with the juicies...is it worth it?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BikeSATORI
    Those XT M752's (5's?) were some of my favorite brakes, for real. They use the same pads as Grimeca's and my Hope monoM4's, so they are still readily available. Very nice brakes mated with some goodridge lines as well.
    depending on how cheap you can get them I would pick'em up if I were you, just to have'em, nice to have in the parts bin or on the bike. under a hundred cdn, is that around like $70-80 usd? not too shabby at all...
    Yeah, those. I can get a front one with the lever and everything. Would probably use a goodridge line and the best fluid I can find for it if I buy it.

  18. #18
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    Dont base your opinion on hydros on HFX9s. There are much better brakes, like juicies. But with bb7s, there is nothing to go wrong and they work mint. I dont think you would have alot of problems with hydros, it just costs more to fix them if u break something.

  19. #19
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    I've got a Juicy 7 on my dj/urban bike and it kills the Hayes 9s that are on my Heckler as far as modulation goes. I've heard they are harder to bleed/repair than the 9s but modulation was my primary concern.

  20. #20
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    Mechanical is nice. more than enough brake for any urban/DJ riding. Simple is always better, IMO.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by sittingduck
    Mechanical is nice. more than enough brake for any urban/DJ riding. Simple is always better, IMO.
    +1 I agree.
    woooooooooo

  22. #22
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    sounds like the bb7's are my deal...so i think im going to go with those....i will be ordering them in right shortly, and ill post up the brakes when they are recieved

    thanks for you help guys, it was much appreciated

  23. #23
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    BB7's are a solid choice. are you going to run full housing?

    well, I just thought of something. How about a Hope MonoMini with the 140mm rear rotor. Then, you could fabricate a little bashguard, similar to those rotor guards you see on some MX bikes. It wouldn't have to be very large, depending on your chainstay/dropout design, but the 140mm rotor would not stick down a whole lot. Heck, you might even be able to do it somehow with a Supercharger or something... Could even work double time as a spoke/hub grind guard when hitting ledges or rails on the non-drive side. Damn, if only I had financial support for these freakin' ideas....
    Schralp it Heavy.

  24. #24
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    well, recived my brakes today...and while you are reading this i am taking pictures of them.

    is it normal to have no stopping power what so ever in the front brake?? i can ride with it squeezed as hard as i can and the rotor rub from the rear would probably stop me faster...

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by free rider
    well, recived my brakes today...and while you are reading this i am taking pictures of them.

    is it normal to have no stopping power what so ever in the front brake?? i can ride with it squeezed as hard as i can and the rotor rub from the rear would probably stop me faster...

    hmmm... ? and how much did you touch the rotors with your greasy hands? you got the bb7's? so no way the pads could be contaminated by hydro fluid leak.... You will want to break in the pads and rotors, but they shouldn't spin free with your hand on the lever, even if brand new.... all my experience with the avid mechs = solid grab, don't know what to tell you unless you're using a canti brake lever for the front or something, which would result in not enough cable pull...
    Schralp it Heavy.

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